Gerald made a good point about the upper turn, should be smoother out a little as well, if at all possible.

Ok even though I have mounted my dust collector on the wall I can reach the power switch, however is there a remote switch that will work. 

 

I have seen various ones all at pretty close to the same price. 

Rockler Dust Collector Remote Switch

Long Ranger III Remote Dust Collector Switch

Grizzly T26673 - 120V Dust Collection Remote

iVAC PRO 115-Volt Remote Control For Dust Collectors

 

All of these say up to 1.5HP dust collector, I have the HF dust collector that is advertised as a 2HP, Many will contest this and say that it is closer to 1.5HP then 2HP.  Because it is rated lets say somewhere between 1.5 and 2, will these controll my DC.   

 

I've had 2 commercial remotes for the DC. The first was a Long Ranger, and it's the one I would recommend if you buy. They are very well made, and will last a long time; that is, unless you continually drop the fob onto a concrete floor like me. Then it will probably only last 10 years or so, st least that was my experience. I replaced it with a Shop Fox, and it was a piece of junk. Hardly lasted 6 months, then the receptacle in the box fell out. I replaced it with a shop built unit using a contactor and lamp switch remote, this is truly indistrial, and if the remote goes out I replace it with another $10 lamp switch. If that's of interest to you I can walk you through the process.

16 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

I've had 2 commercial remotes for the DC. The first was a Long Ranger, and it's the one I would recommend if you buy. They are very well made, and will last a long time; that is, unless you continually drop the fob onto a concrete floor like me. Then it will probably only last 10 years or so, st least that was my experience. I replaced it with a Shop Fox, and it was a piece of junk. Hardly lasted 6 months, then the receptacle in the box fell out. I replaced it with a shop built unit using a contactor and lamp switch remote, this is truly indistrial, and if the remote goes out I replace it with another $10 lamp switch. If that's of interest to you I can walk you through the process.

I would like to see what you built, I am all about saving anywhere I can.  As long as I can build something that is safe I am all for it. 

Larry, let me give you a cliff notes version and you let me know what I left out. To start, my DC is 240V and it would be a slightly different (2 hots instead of one). But I also built a 120V model I use with my HVLP sprayer, and it would also work with your DC, so I have pics of it.  You start with a contactor, in this case you want a 120V coil model; this is the one that's in my example. Then you need an enclosure for it, I've always used the gray exterior boxes at the borg. While my DC has a larger box, the 120V is in this one. Now, this box is a little tight, so you can get any size you want. At this point it's at $20 for the remote. You'll also need a cheap lamp switch remote, there's no end of these available and with Christmas being here a lot of places will have out door units on sale. The one you see on my DC is a dual outlet one I got at Menards...I think it was $5. Here's a similar model. All that's left is some electric cord, you need some probably 12/3 and a plug ( and an receptacle if you want) and a lamp cord with plug for the coil. So that stuff will add another $15 or so depending on the exact hardware you select...at this point we are in the $45 range. To wire it is pretty simple. The lamp cord goes to the coil on the contactor, in my picture that's the flat stab on the front with the red colored connector, one wire goes to this side, the second wire to the other side (it's not polarized, so you can run the hot and/or neutral to either side). The to wire the power cord to the contactor, you place one end of the 12/3 hot (black) on one terminal, the other end opposite it. On this one I did, I didn't cut the ground or neutral wires, I just let them run to the receptacle. If you don't want to buy the receptacle, you can hard wire your DC into the contactor....but just using a receptacle would be easier. To use it, you plug the lamp cord into your remote. When you switch it on, it will power the coil and close the contacts....this provides power to the DC. When you switch it off, it opens the contacts and urns off the DC. You can test the coil function with the DC line being plugged in, it makes a veru audible click when it closes. The pics below show the box wired to my DC, then you see an overall view of the one I'm trying to explain, and a pic of the contactor in the box. If Artie or others catch this, they may have something to add or critique my description.

Edited November 21, 20196 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

I think this is something that I can do without to much trouble.

 

Question, Could you cut the plug off the Wireless Remote Control Plug In and wire it directly to the contactor (since the contactor is getting power from an outlet).  If this would work it would allow you to use a short lamp cord running from the contactor to the Wireless Remote Control Plug In inside the box. 

 

 

Well, a definite maybe. That is a receiver...it's gets the signal from the remote. I haven't looked closely, but I'd bet it's an infrared remote, so it needs a line of sight to the receiver, and putting it in the box would be a problem. But if it's a radio frequency remote what you want to do would work. I'm not in the shop right now to look, but I'd bet most of the cheap ones are IR remotes.

Edited November 21, 20196 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

  Nice walk through Fred.

OK, I was wrong about my remote switch being IR, it is indeed RF...much to my surprise. So I would think with a similar switch you could put the receiver inside the contactor box assuming it's large enough to hold everything.

17 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Larry, let me give you a cliff notes version and you let me know what I left out. To start, my DC is 240V and it would be a slightly different (2 hots instead of one). But I also built a 120V model I use with my HVLP sprayer, and it would also work with your DC, so I have pics of it.  You start with a contactor, in this case you want a 120V coil model; this is the one that's in my example. Then you need an enclosure for it, I've always used the gray exterior boxes at the borg. While my DC has a larger box, the 120V is in this one. Now, this box is a little tight, so you can get any size you want. At this point it's at $20 for the remote. You'll also need a cheap lamp switch remote, there's no end of these available and with Christmas being here a lot of places will have out door units on sale. The one you see on my DC is a dual outlet one I got at Menards...I think it was $5. Here's a similar model. All that's left is some electric cord, you need some probably 12/3 and a plug ( and an receptacle if you want) and a lamp cord with plug for the coil. So that stuff will add another $15 or so depending on the exact hardware you select...at this point we are in the $45 range. To wire it is pretty simple. The lamp cord goes to the coil on the contactor, in my picture that's the flat stab on the front with the red colored connector, one wire goes to this side, the second wire to the other side (it's not polarized, so you can run the hot and/or neutral to either side). The to wire the power cord to the contactor, you place one end of the 12/3 hot (black) on one terminal, the other end opposite it. On this one I did, I didn't cut the ground or neutral wires, I just let them run to the receptacle. If you don't want to buy the receptacle, you can hard wire your DC into the contactor....but just using a receptacle would be easier. To use it, you plug the lamp cord into your remote. When you switch it on, it will power the coil and close the contacts....this provides power to the DC. When you switch it off, it opens the contacts and urns off the DC. You can test the coil function with the DC line being plugged in, it makes a veru audible click when it closes. The pics below show the box wired to my DC, then you see an overall view of the one I'm trying to explain, and a pic of the contactor in the box. If Artie or one of the other Sparkies catch this, they may have something to add or critique my description.

 

I think this is something that I can do without to much trouble.

 

Question, Could you cut the plug off the Wireless Remote Control Plug In and wire it directly to the contactor (since the contactor is getting power from an outlet).  If this would work it would allow you to use a short lamp cord running from the contactor to the Wireless Remote Control Plug In inside the box.

Edited November 22, 20196 yr by Larry Blighton

Did you miss my replies above? Maybe I misunderstand what you're asking (quite possible)?

3 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Did you miss my replies above? Maybe I misunderstand what you're asking (quite possible)?

Fred not sure how I did that, Yes I understood your reply. 

Gotcha...just checking in case I missed something.

57 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Gotcha...just checking in case I missed something.

I will probably be building this in the next few days.  I have an old Home depot gift card that will cover the cost of everything.  They do not have the contactor but have possibly found it at another store, should know for sure this afternoon.

Ok well I did not get to building the remote on/off switch this weekend.  I did however purchase all of the parts and pieces, so hopefully it will happen this week. 

I was however able to get alot of the pipe hung for the Dust collection system. (I did not glue anything, just friction fit with 2 small screws to help hold together and HVAC aluminium tape for air tightness) 

I was able to squeeze in a straight run of almost 20" going into the cyclone to help with the air turbulence going into the cyclone.

 

Drop #1 will be split after the gate valve with a 4" to 2.5" wye, (with another gate valve on the 4" side) this will allow me to use it for both my drum sander and small ported hand tools at the workbench off the same drop. (Because this drop is close to the garage door I can roll the Drum sander outside if needed due to the excess amount of dust created by the drum sander.)

Drop #2 will be hooked up to my band saw. 

Drop #3 will have a split after the gate valve with a 4" to 2.5" wye because my router table has both 4" and 2.5" dust ports.

Drop #4 will either have a long hose attached for shop cleanup or be extended to the floor to be used as for a shop sweep.

Drop #5 will run to the center of the garage and drop down for the table saw and miter saw station.

 

Edited November 25, 20196 yr by Larry Blighton

Very neat install. Looks like you have it covered.

Nicely done. I see you went without the long sweep el next to the Dust Deputy, was it a space issue?

I debated a long time about that and it was mainly because I wanted to try and get a longer straight run into the cyclone. If I could find a long sweep elbow like the wye I showed in the earlier picture I might replace the 90. I will most likely try a couple other configurations later.

They're extremely hard to find (long sweep els) and I suspect that's why the 2-45s and a short piece of straight between them became so popular.

A good start. Next will be using it and seeing what works best. Each system is different and will have it's own unique issues. Looks good!!