2 minutes ago, Artie said:

It is relatively very easy to convert a single outlet circuit between 110/220 volts, BUT!!!! You have to KNOW!!! That it is the only receptacle on the circuit. I have seen homemade juryrigged outlets forgotten to be converted back to 110 volts. (In other words they used a 110 outlet for 220, put a 110 cord cap on the 220 volt machine) The next several 110 volt loads that were plugged into said outlet were DESTROYED. iff’n I was within driving distance I would look at this for you.  

At some point in the next month or so we are going to be putting in a pool heater that will require a 220.  I think I'll call a local electrician to sees what it will cost for a 220 circuit.

14 minutes ago, Artie said:

(In other words they used a 110 outlet for 220, put a 110 cord cap on the 220 volt machine)

I ran across this on a RAS a few years back, it had a 110 volt plug on it so I figured it was wired for 110.

I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't come up to speed. 

Didn't check the wiring until after I got a second RAS and started combining the best parts from both. 

Oh well I've.... got plenty of spare parts!

 

In  regards to saving money, something we all want to do, I started with a shop vac.  Then got given the current DC which sits on a 55 gallon drum.  As it was large and I also had a budget to watch I built a "outhouse" and set it against the shop wall.  Then just attached a pipe to the inside.  That was what I could afford and it worked.  Made it out of free 2x4 shorts from a building project dumpster.  Little paint and all was good.

 

Did not upgrade until I added on the shop in 2003.

 

My point being you can use something for a time, and make it look nice enough that nobody complains and keep moving forward with the more important items on your list.

 

Sold the outhouse to the neighbor who uses for a garden tool shed at her lake house.  

Thanks for all of the advice and suggestions.  It looks like again this is a topic of a 1000 ways to skin a cat and anything that works for my need is a better system then what I have now, which is really nothing more then a shop vac.  

 

There is still alot of (cleanup and clearing out) work to be done to to have the room I need to anything more then my shop vac system, so hopefully over the next week or so that can start taking place and things can start coming together. I will update this thread as progress is made. 

4 minutes ago, Larry Blighton said:

Thanks for all of the advice and suggestions.  It looks like again this is a topic of a 1000 ways to skin a cat and anything that works for my need is a better system then what I have now, which is really nothing more then a shop vac.  

 

There is still alot of (cleanup and clearing out) work to be done to to have the room I need to anything more then my shop vac system, so hopefully over the next week or so that can start taking place and things can start coming together. I will update this thread as progress is made. 

yes. Please do keep us in the loop. 

Dust:  you might consider the PURPOSE before interviewing equipment.  From my experience (personal and professional), I find there is a progression of dust handling.  

--Housecleaning:  shop vac connected to tool:  keeps the dust from getting too deep.  Good for small volumes, hobbyist.  If the space is decently vented (two doors open), the fact that the shop vac doesn't capture the fine dust isn't a big problem.  Biggest drawback is the frequency of emptying the canister and cleaning the cartridge filter (you can clean them forever, don't need to replace).  Handy to roll around, don't need piping installed.  Good starting place, gives experience with how tools/dust interface.

--Volume dust buildup:  tapered centrifugal separators (dust deputy, etc) make accumulation of dust easier to tolerate because they end up in bigger cans (often a 30 gal trash can) that don't need so frequent service.  The c-separator does NOT improve the final dust particulate size ejected from the fan.

--Fine dust control, volume increase, but still portable (wheeled):  Portable (wheeled base) DC fan/bag combo:  While there are a lot of variations, these usually have plenty of on-board storage for light commercial/hobbyist volumes, and they have more control over the dust particle size ejected.  Most of these start from factory with a rating of "3 micron" (or thereabouts); the rating is pretty meaningless, but it tells you the starting point.  Most of these can be converted to "1 micron" bags (in a two-bagger, the upper bag has the 1 micron rating, and has to be sized for the fan volume; the lower bag is lined with an impervious trash bag).  Unless you have unusual allergies or sensitivities, a "1 mic" rating is good.  The portables do pretty well as compromise between air volume, storage, particulate control.  They definitely are a "one tool at a time" app.  Manufacturer rating of fan is about 800 cfm:  ignore the reality, it won't go for that much air flow in operation, but it's kind of a benchmark.  Fan inlets usually 4" or 5".

--Higher volume, multiple tool capacity:  stationary DC, permanent duct (pipe).  Mfr rating usually over 1000 cfm*, and 5" or 6" inlet to fan.  You have to be making a lot of dust (or be obsessive) at this end of the spectrum.  Lots of variations on ducting. 

--One most important thing in ducting:  look for "long radius" elbows; they're not commonly found in ww or big box stores, but you'll find them on line.  Straight (smooth, not flex) duct/pipe has a trivial pressure loss compared to a standard ("short radius") elbow; a bend in flex material can be a killer to air flow.  So putting your DC in a corner and running more straight pipe isn't a problem....unless it forces more elbows.  

 

Bang for buck:  figure out the benefits you want before picking the equipment.  Luck!

 

*manufacturers in this industry actually have no idea what they're doing with fans, ducts, pressures.  They seem to pretty much just copy what others have done.

 

So I have not really decided yet if I am going to leave the dust collector on the mobile base or attach it to the wall.

I have however purchased a dust collector. I did quite a bit of thinking when it came to purchasing the dust collector. I decided to try and get the most bang for my buck and decided to get the

Harbor Freight 2 HP 1550 CFM Heavy Duty High Flow High Capacity Dust Collector
Adding a MERV 15 (.5 micron) canister
Add a 12 in. Diameter Rikon impeller
Add Dust Deputy Cyclone to make it 2 stage

I was able to do all of the upgrades (filter cartridge and impeller) plus add the Dust Deputy Cyclone for less then $750

Here are some of the ones that I compared it with. (price and advertised performance)

(I used comparison before Dust Deputy added: Cost $540)
Jet $549.99
1 HP 650 CFM Dust Collector
2-Micron Canister Kit
9.5 in. Diameter impeller

(I used comparison after Dust Deputy added)
Jet $749.99
1.5 HP 1100 CFM Dust Collector with Vortex Cone
2-Micron Canister Kit
11 in. Diameter impeller

(I used comparison after Dust Deputy added)
Jet $799.99
2 HP 1200 CFM Dust Collector with Vortex Cone
2-Micron Canister Kit
12 in. Diameter impeller

Well, in the end what's important is that you are happy with the choices you made; and I'm sure you are! Congrats!

Ok have a question, My table saw will be located close to the middle of my shop.  If I mount my dust collector on the wall which would be better, to run the piping along the ceiling and down or to run it along the floor to the table saw?  Will I lose anything with the longer run of PVC attached to the ceiling vice a shorter run of flex hose? I know that running it along the floor does make it a trip hazard. 

Any length of flex disrupts airflow and reduces capability. Run on the ceiling using solid PVC , even on the drop getting as close to saw as possible before switch to flex. I did not look up the HF unit but I presume it is a 220 since motors over 1.5 hp are all 220v. 

 

Central location is always best if possible. Mine is in attic directly above the TS.

As a general rule, flex will have at least 3X the drag on your system versus the same run of smooth pipe. So using less flex is always a good thing, even if the smooth pipe run is somewhat longer.

10 hours ago, Larry Blighton said:

Ok have a question, My table saw will be located close to the middle of my shop.  If I mount my dust collector on the wall which would be better, to run the piping along the ceiling and down or to run it along the floor to the table saw?  Will I lose anything with the longer run of PVC attached to the ceiling vice a shorter run of flex hose? I know that running it along the floor does make it a trip hazard. 

You shouldn't have an problem running across the ceiling...

At what point does the size of the hose/pipe become too big for the size of a particular system? Is there any charts to calculate this

I think on mine it had a split with two 4" pipes. I took mine off and put a 6" then reduced the 5" pvc. Works great...

57 minutes ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

At what point does the size of the hose/pipe become too big for the size of a particular system? Is there any charts to calculate this

At the point where the velocity of the air in the pipe doesn't keep the particles suspended. A common velocity number cited is that you need the air moving at 4000 feet per minute. Here's some info over at Wood magazine that may help explain how duct size relates to that velocity. You can easily get buried in so much techno-babble in figuring this out that it gives you a permanent headache.

Edited November 14, 20196 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

I understand the bigger the pipe diameter is, the more air that moves.  However in my case I am going to use 4" piping simply because I can get it for Free.  If I need to upgrade to a bigger diameter pipe later I will.

4" should be fine. Too big a pipe and dust just drops with no flow. 4" is good as it will pull chips. I can run two 4" lines and have good flow. Anymore things start settling in the pipe. My unisaw runs perfect dust collection with a edge sander, but remember the edge sander is fine dust. Now run two shapers and it could clog.

 

The ideal is too never assume it will run perfect. Never get lazy and leave blast gates open and unattended  for no reason...

You can see the JET 1.5 on the left. I believe it is the 1100 version.15 years old and still kickin.and I've not been nice to it....

 

Edited November 14, 20196 yr by BillyJack

Your trunk line should be as large as the inlet to the DC. From that you down size the farther you are from the DC, but I would not go lower than 4 however some tools will have slammer ports and those should be as close to the tool as possible.

My intent is to run as much 4" rigid as possible, making very short flex hose runs to the equipment. If the equipment has less then a 4" dust port I will expand it to 4". 

50 minutes ago, Larry Blighton said:

If the equipment has less then a 4" dust port I will expand it to 4". 

That's always a good idea. I'm not sure why the manufacturers put those puny ports on tools, they don't serve the purpose very well.