16 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

A good start. Next will be using it and seeing what works best. Each system is different and will have it's own unique issues. Looks good!!

I expect it to change over time.

I know in the 20 years I have had mine it has changed alot. Did a big mod back in December of last year. Got alot of input here on suggestions. Even rebuilt the DC I had.

5 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

I know in the 20 years I have had mine it has changed alot. Did a big mod back in December of last year. Got alot of input here on suggestions. Even rebuilt the DC I had.

Well I can tell you I am very thankful of all the input and suggestions that I have gotten.  It has made alot of things easier.

Thought that I would share how the Cyclone went together. The original cyclone came with the cyclone body, 15g barrel and clamping ring. I wanted to increase my barrel size. I was going to use a 55g blue barrel with clamping ring and affix the cyclone body to the top. When I went to get the barrel they were out, which forced mt to rethink my plan. I found this 60g black pickle barrel and it was actually easier to use then the original blue barrel in my plan. 

 

The barrel came with a two part top (a lid and ring) kinda like the ring and lid on a mason jar. 

The lid inserted into the barrel so I cut out the center leaving about a 2" lip this allowed the molded cyclone body to sit on the remaining lip of the lid (This is where I placed the gasket that came with the cyclone). The ring then slips over the cyclone body and tightens down. It seems to work great, there are no leaks to my knowledge and it does not crush when the DC is turned on.

 

 

 

 

Edited November 27, 20196 yr by Larry Blighton

On 10/1/2019 at 7:36 AM, Larry Blighton said:

There is a possibility to vent it to the outside and might be something that can happen in the future.

 

Yes I have a drum sander.  It is probably one of the tools right now that will be pretty much used outside, I have not used it yet for anything major (just test pieces) It was purchased since the move and was one of those deals that was just too good to pass up.

One challenge for use northern workers is any DC that exhausts to the outside needs make up air to keep working if your shop is also your garage then I see no issues but if the shop is heated the DC exhaust is pushing all the warm air out of the shop.  if the shop is in a tight basement you may reverse the flow of the HW tank or the furnance.  Take good precaution before exhausting DC to the outside.  

24 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

One challenge for use northern workers is any DC that exhausts to the outside needs make up air to keep working if your shop is also your garage then I see no issues but if the shop is heated the DC exhaust is pushing all the warm air out of the shop.  if the shop is in a tight basement you may reverse the flow of the HW tank or the furnance.  Take good precaution before exhausting DC to the outside.  

Thanks, Right now I am using a canister filter on the DC but maybe down the road at some point I might exhaust it outside.  I am located in Florida and you don't see many basements in this part of the country, most shops are either stand alone or in the garage.

Larry, you will really like the Super Dust Deputy.  Mine does a great job.  You may want to look into a way for seeing how full the barrel is.  Mine has a smaller mounting flange and I used a piece of thick plexiglass for the barrel top to see through.  I thought the static may stick dust to it but surprisingly it stays clear.

3 minutes ago, HandyDan said:

Larry, you will really like the Super Dust Deputy.  Mine does a great job.  You may want to look into a way for seeing how full the barrel is.  Mine has a smaller mounting flange and I used a piece of thick plexiglass for the barrel top to see through.  I thought the static may stick dust to it but surprisingly it stays clear.

I was just talking about that yesterday.  I will probably install a barrel level sensor on it.  I was looking at the ones Oneida sells but they want $150 for it.  I have seen some DIY builds for them and a much reduced cost.   

I have an Oneida sensor (I think they call it a Dust Sentry). But I got mine some years back when they had a Christmas special for $50. Just last month I discovered it wasn't working....turns out the transformer died. I replaced it and all's back to normal now. I've seen several descriptions of building one and they seem fairly simple. I even saw a few guys use sensors from a garage door opener to cobble one together. Anyway, I really like the way that pickle barrel worked out for you, pretty cool.

On 11/25/2019 at 9:29 AM, Larry Blighton said:

Ok well I did not get to building the remote on/off switch this weekend.  I did however purchase all of the parts and pieces, so hopefully it will happen this week. 

I was however able to get alot of the pipe hung for the Dust collection system. (I did not glue anything, just friction fit with 2 small screws to help hold together and HVAC aluminium tape for air tightness) 

I was able to squeeze in a straight run of almost 20" going into the cyclone to help with the air turbulence going into the cyclone.

 

Drop #1 will be split after the gate valve with a 4" to 2.5" wye, (with another gate valve on the 4" side) this will allow me to use it for both my drum sander and small ported hand tools at the workbench off the same drop. (Because this drop is close to the garage door I can roll the Drum sander outside if needed due to the excess amount of dust created by the drum sander.)

Drop #2 will be hooked up to my band saw. 

Drop #3 will have a split after the gate valve with a 4" to 2.5" wye because my router table has both 4" and 2.5" dust ports.

Drop #4 will either have a long hose attached for shop cleanup or be extended to the floor to be used as for a shop sweep.

Drop #5 will run to the center of the garage and drop down for the table saw and miter saw station.

 

That's a great looking system!  I plan to use this as an inspiration.

Silly questions about the piping - Is the white pipe schedule 40?  Is the green pipe something different?

 

Also - (and consider the inexperienced source when I point this out) I've read of some danger from floor sweeps where an overlooked screw or nail could damage the impeller.  Or would the dust deputy take care of this?

Thank you,

Jim

1 hour ago, RedMGB said:

That's a great looking system!  I plan to use this as an inspiration.

Silly questions about the piping - Is the white pipe schedule 40?  Is the green pipe something different?

 

Also - (and consider the inexperienced source when I point this out) I've read of some danger from floor sweeps where an overlooked screw or nail could damage the impeller.  Or would the dust deputy take care of this?

Thank you,

Jim

Jim, we are all inexperienced at some point and time.  

 

Yes the wite fittings are Sch 40 thin wall and the green pipe is SDR 35 which is sewer pipe.  It is plenty thick enough to handle the pressure of a dust collection system at about half the weight (maybe more) it also cost less.

 

IRT the floor sweep system, yes an overlooked nail or screw could get picked or sweeped up and damage the impeller, however the cyclone separator should catch all this.  Like with all things there is always the possibility that something could get through, so I would always recommend to visually inspect everything before sweeping it into the system.

On 11/22/2019 at 7:31 AM, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

OK, I was wrong about my remote switch being IR, it is indeed RF...much to my surprise. So I would think with a similar switch you could put the receiver inside the contactor box assuming it's large enough to hold everything.

To all that read this I am not an Electrician.

 

Fred  So I got some time today to mess around with the remote switch.  

 

The things I purchased (because I wanted to copy Fred)

PVC (6 x 6) box

120 volt 30 amp contactor

cable strain reliefs

cable and plugs ends

Lamp cord (Pulled out of my throw away pile)

 

I attached the plug ends and the disconnects to the power in/out wire and the lamp cord. 

I cut the male plug off the Defiant wireless (indoor/outdoor) remote switch and added disconnects to the wires.

I drilled two holes in the 6 x 6 PVC box for the power in/out wire.

I used to very small screws to attached the contactor to the bottom of the box and hot glue to attach the remote switch.  

I attached all the wires and it works like a champ.

 

The biggest difference between mine and Freds is that I put the wireless (indoor/outdoor) remote switch inside the PVC 6 x 6 box.

 

If you would like to know more about the wiring I do have a wire diagram I can post. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 29, 20196 yr by Larry Blighton

On 11/27/2019 at 3:26 PM, Larry Blighton said:

Yes the wite fittings are Sch 40 thin wall and the green pipe is SDR 35 which is sewer pipe.  It is plenty thick enough to handle the pressure of a dust collection system at about half the weight (maybe more) it also cost less.

Thank you for this information, but now I'm even more confused.  What is schedule 40 thin wall?  I've used only 1 kind of sch 40 and the 4" is pretty heavy.  

I was wondering about the white drain pipe that comes in solid or perf, which is pretty light weight?  Is that what you mean?

 

Thank you, 

Jim

12 hours ago, Larry Blighton said:

To all that read this I am not an Electrician.

 

Fred  So I got some time today to mess around with the remote switch.  

 

The things I purchased (because I wanted to copy Fred)

PVC (6 x 6) box

120 volt 30 amp contactor

cable strain reliefs

cable and plugs ends

Lamp cord (Pulled out of my throw away pile)

 

I attached the plug ends and the disconnects to the power in/out wire and the lamp cord. 

I cut the male plug off the Defiant wireless (indoor/outdoor) remote switch and added disconnects to the wires.

I drilled two holes in the 6 x 6 PVC box for the power in/out wire.

I used to very small screws to attached the contactor to the bottom of the box and hot glue to attach the remote switch.  

I attached all the wires and it works like a champ.

 

The biggest difference between mine and Freds is that I put the wireless (indoor/outdoor) remote switch inside the PVC 6 x 6 box.

 

If you would like to know more about the wiring I do have a wire diagram I can post. 

 

 

 

 

 

So your feeding in 120v to the remote and that white wire (comes with/on the remote??) then pulls in the contactor when triggered. 

I think the thin wall fittings are actually Schedule 20. That aside, I like they way you set that remote up better than the one I built, nicely done. I guess with this you ready to catch the dust.

 Well Larry it looks like Fred's directions got to the right place, nice job.

1 hour ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

So your feeding in 120v to the remote and that white wire (comes with/on the remote??) then pulls in the contactor when triggered. 

Yes. 

4 hours ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

So your feeding in 120v to the remote and that white wire (comes with/on the remote??) then pulls in the contactor when triggered. 

120 comes in and feeds the contacter and the wireless remote.

The white lamp cord provides power from the wireless remote to the coil inside the contactor. This power opens and closes the coil when the ON/OFF button on the remote is pushed. (White cord is just a normal cord that I just happened to pull off a lamp, any small electronic, appliance cord should really work.) 

Edited November 30, 20196 yr by Larry Blighton

Larry thank you so much for the drawing I'm sure it will help others down the road. Did you mount the secondary switch in the cover or outside the splice box? I don't see it in the picture of your finished splice box. I'm working on using an auto trigger device that will turn on my shop vac attached to my miter saw and will also trigger my bigger 1 hp dust collector.

By the way I am an electrician. 

Edited November 30, 20196 yr by Pat Meeuwissen

34 minutes ago, Pat Meeuwissen said:

Larry thank you so much for the drawing I'm sure it will help others down the road. Did you mount the secondary switch in the cover or outside the splice box? I don't see it in the picture of your finished splice box. I'm working on using an auto trigger device that will turn on my shop vac attached to my miter saw and will also trigger my bigger 1 hp dust collector.

By the way I am an electrician. 

I  left the secondary switch off as I could not find the switch I was looking for.   My intent was to mount it threw the top cover of the box between the power coming in and the contactor just as a means to kill all power going to the Contactor/RF remote/Coil.  

 

I might install it later if I find the switch I want.

You could also install a manual on switch if you wanted to turn it on without the remote. In case you ever "misplace" the remote that sort of thing never happens to me. LOL