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Shop layout / Dust collection

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Ok so I made alittle headway on the shop this weekend.  I was able to get pretty much all of the pipe and fittings to run the system for free so I decided to mount the dust collector on the wall.  This will also free up some floor space.  So I started with the canister filter and bag housing (not sure exactly what this is called). To save room I was able to mount this in the corner over where I currently have the air compressor and will still have room to leave the compressor there is I want.

 

I am going to put a cyclone seperator on my system and had decided to use a blue 55g barrel however when I went to go get the barrel he did not have any left.  I was able to pick up this 60g black pickle barrel.  There are a couple of things I like about this barrel over the other one.  The sides are thicker and is actually has a ring that screws down to make the barrel air tight.

 

I was also able to get my used (new to me) air cleaner hung.  

cyclone seperator.jpg

air cleaner.jpg

canister filter 1.jpg

 

 

Edited by Larry Blighton

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  • Larry Blighton
    Larry Blighton

    Ok so I have changed the layout of my shop from the original post, Now I have not changed much in the 1.5 years that it has been set up.  Here is a new picture of the shop layout and of the dust colle

  • Sawdust?  

  • Truer words were never spoken!

Posted Images

Based on the same ideal?

 

Winnipeg-20150613-01199.jpg

27c4fd80f9854531a649d413476193df.jpg

  • Author

I wanted to change the impeller and rotate the scroll so that it lined up straight on to the filter and bag, If I cannot do this I will have a small s-bend in the hose.  Will this me a problem? 

 

flex hose conection.png

It would take some pretty neat instruments to measure the difference, but it will probably reduce the air flow in some minuscule way. If you have to do it, you have to do it....don't lose sleep over it.

  • Author

ok thanks

  • Author
4 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

It would take some pretty neat instruments to measure the difference, but it will probably reduce the air flow in some minuscule way. If you have to do it, you have to do it....don't lose sleep over it.

thanks

I have neat instruments for checking mine. I put pieces of 1/4 under as many  drops as I can till they start falling then I know the limits of my DC.... works every time...

 

With those fancy instruments I found I can have two 4" ports open at one time till it "drops" off noticeably. ...

Edited by BillyJack

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When I start to run the pipe does it need to be slightly slanted down hill towards the the cyclone?

It shouldn't make a difference...

  • Author

ok thanks, I am hoping to have the motor mounted this afternoon and then I can start running pipe.

Larry my DC is in the attic with canister filter and cloth collection bag. This means there is a gradual 90 degree turn from the floor Dust Deputy to the dc. I had to use 5 inch flex for this and there may have been a drop (no measurement tools except my hand) but the increased from 4 inch to 5 inch definitely makes up the difference. area in a 4 inch circle about 16 square inches and area for a 5 inch is about 25 square inches.

6 hours ago, Larry Blighton said:

I wanted to change the impeller and rotate the scroll so that it lined up straight on to the filter and bag, If I cannot do this I will have a small s-bend in the hose.  Will this me a problem? 

The air at the outlet of a fan is crowded to the outside of the scroll (impeller housing).  The upper half of the outlet probably carries 80% of the air volume; in some cases, the 10% area near the bottom of the outlet (the "throat") can actually run backward.  So, in your diagram the high velocity runs along the turn of the duct (the "S" curve) in the direction of the fan rotation.  This is good.  But then you hit the next turn, and you get a lot of turbulence as the high velocity air crosses the duct center, slams the opposite wall, splashes all over.  In, say, a 4" duct, you'd like 12--16" straight off the fan to avoid most of this turbulence.  Shorter = more pressure loss:  it can be 1" or more loss (vs fan able to make, say, 4--5" pressure).  Can be noisy, too.  Lots of energy loss.

 

Uphill/downhill in transport velocity applications usually doesn't matter....until it does.  Hunks don't move the way dust does.  If you are really just dealing with dust, slope won't matter.

Date your filter on the air cleaner so you can see it.  Not so much for a set date when to change, just lets you know when you looked at it last.

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11 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Date your filter on the air cleaner so you can see it.  Not so much for a set date when to change, just lets you know when you looked at it last.

Thanks I will do that. 

 

 

Ok I got the motor mounted to the wall, will add some straps as for additional safety.  As it turns out there is not going to be a s-bend going into the filter. 

 

Please let me know I can do something different to make things easier or better.

In the attached picture I added a piece of scrap pipe to the cyclone so show the pipe path to the ceiling.

 

canister and motor.jpg

  • Author

Question, inside the filter/bag separator there are holes were things were suppose to connect if assembled correctly.  Can I just use the HVAC tape to cover these or will it come off do to the air flow force.  

Edited by Larry Blighton

1 hour ago, Larry Blighton said:

Question, inside the filter/bag separator there are holes were things were suppose to connect if assembled correctly.  Can I just use the HVAC tape to cover these or will it come off do to the air flow force.  

There is relatively little pressure at that point.  Painter's tape would hold.  Shucks, Scotch tape would hold.  You could also make little plugs of dried rubber cement and work them in.  I'd suggest micro-corks, but you might take me seriously.

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9 minutes ago, PeteM said:

There is relatively little pressure at that point.  Painter's tape would hold.  Shucks, Scotch tape would hold.  You could also make little plugs of dried rubber cement and work them in.  I'd suggest micro-corks, but you might take me seriously.

Micro-corks no problem, I think I can get a few out of this cork log but that would take longer then I really want to spend on this task so I will use tape.

 

giant cork log.jpg

  • Author

ok so looking for some feedback. I do not have a ton of room for a long run into the cyclone but I have attached two pictures that I think are the best two options. 

 

Option 1 is a long turn wye and Option 2 is a regular wye with a 45.  

 

run config 1.jpg

run config 2.jpg

Edited by Larry Blighton

1 hour ago, Larry Blighton said:

ok so looking for some feedback. I do not have a ton of room for a long run into the cyclone but I have attached two pictures that I think are the best two options. 

 

Option 1 is a long turn wye and Option 2 is a regular wye with a 45.  

 

run config 1.jpg

run config 2.jpg

The long WYE is the best choice but also do the same at the upper 90. Double 45 in second will work but the long wye is a better choice.

19 minutes ago, Gerald said:

The long WYE is the best choice

I agree, use them as much as possible.  My system is smaller pipe but same principle.  To get where I needed to go I had to sacrifice on the turns.  My thinking was something is better than nothing.  May come back later and do some changing but for the moment it works good enough. :D

 

854082826_DCupgrade2018(9).jpg.db16befc549cfc153f198894beb73d54.jpg

 

658009851_DCandCompressor.JPG.eedce5bef84cd8d1466bc300d011c716.JPG

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