I’m about to step into uncharted territory.   The local fire chief paid me a visit today with a job.  Last year, one of the volunteer firefighters built an 8 foot table for the station and applied a poured 2 part epoxy finish on it.  His plan was to let the epoxy cure for a year and then polish it.  Unfortunately, he died suddenly before he could complete the project.  I’ve been asked to polish the top but have never done so.  Any of you folks ever tackled such a project?  If so, what’s the process?  Inquiring minds want to know.

Wow, a long time ago, a customer had a live edge cedar coffee table with epoxy finish that had scratched over the years.   I got it polished up but do not remember all the products that I might have used.   I have a bunch of rubbing and polishing compounds that I got at auto supply stores that I've used to buff up super high gloss lacquer table tops.  Just like sanding, start only as coarse as you need to and step up the grit level to remove the prior product's scratches.   I also would often finish with a lamb's wool bonnet on a buffing machine and if needed a foam cover with a swirl remover following that.  Just realize that the higher the gloss, the more imperfections and wear and tear it's going to show.

 

I've read that people that do "river tables" use a ROS once the epoxy is set to level off and clean up the overflow.

 

So, in summary, I guess it's what it looks like when you get started and where you want it to end up.

I knew I could count on you Keith.  I’m going to look at it tomorrow and I hope the builder knew what he was doing.  

Mcguires compound  and polishing cpd works well on plastic. Also there is PlastX (spelling) which covers scratches and polishes.

Poured epoxy has a long time reputation for cracking, whether or not it has been polished.

 

Like I said when I was still here, several coats of satin poly, applied with an old nylon sock will result in a far superior finish.  Remember, Dude?  (Ron Dudelston)

 

One caveat would be to progressively reduce the poly with mineral spirits, ending with about 60/40.  Wait a week, then finish with 0000 steel wool and TreWax, which is almost all Carnauba wax.

 

For those old-timers that like to save everything, look for my "Finishing the Finish" article somewhere in the bowels of John1's toy..

 

Larry Jenkins  (Now 88.)   Older than dirt.

Edited April 8, 20206 yr by Larry Jenkins

I have some poured epoxy that's over 60 years old and none of it has ever cracked an no one around here gets any cracks even the café tables that are beat on every day....So I'm thinking  it might be the area where you live instead of the name epoxy being bad....I can not remember  any one complaining about it!