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Showing results for tags 'cnc'.
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Special request -- 24 x 12 - cut with 1/8" ball nose bit -- took a loooong time
honesttjohn posted a gallery image in CNC
From the album: from honesttjohn's Lab
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Had a lady call who wanted a sign for her husband's hunting camp in northern Michigan. She thought it would be outside so that limited my wood choices. I settled on, what i thought, was a nice piece of cedar. Only had one little knot on the whole 8' 2x6 board as well as some nice grain. So I thought. We went back and forth thru email and settled on a design and I went to work gluing and making sawdust. Cedar is messy i found out. Finished piece is about 25 x 16 and carved from one piece of glued up (Titebond III Ultimate) cedar with 4 coats of spar urathane front and back. She doesn't like it from the pics I sent. Said she'd come over and look and probably take it, but she weren't happy. I thought it turned out pretty good. After all, this is for a male hunting camp, not an art gallery. Talk about an ego buster.
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The gift shop that displays a few of my turnings sold fifteen ornaments for me this year and several honey dipper lids. I don't want my hobby to be a job but a little extra cash lets me spend for the shop without feeling guilty about it. More about that in a minute. I'm working through a batch of honey dipper lids for the spring season now. There will be 25 this time. All of the lids are completed and I have 23 dipper stems done so I only really need to do a couple more tomorrow. However, I have nine more blanks prepped so I'll turn them all and put some in the kitty for next time. Tomorrow I'll also get the laser fired up and etch some of the lids, about half of them probably. Now, about spending some of my stash. I've been intrigued by CNC for a few years, even more so since I got the little laser. I have some ideas about doing some inlay plaques for ornaments and I'm hoping to do it with a little cnc machine. Found this on Amazon. Very affordable at under 250 bucks. It is very small and I'm sure very light duty. It's supposed to have a working area of about 11"X 7". I figure if nothing else it's an inexpensive way to learn about the process and whether or not my ideas will work. Surprisingly, these machines get mostly favorable reviews. We'll see how it goes. I will finish the honey dippers before I mess with it to much but I'm anxious to explore the possibilities.
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So Gerald you inspired me to start embellishing the bottom of my turnings. It occurred to me that the Shaper Origin had potential to make it easy. Before glue up I routed a circle into the bottom piece to exactly match the diameter of the faceplate. After the piece is finished I cut a disc that exactly matches the depression I routed for the faceplate, add whatever engraving I want onto the disc and then glue it into the circular depression. The first one I wasn’t ready to get involved in the design of the engraving and I just added my name. Now that I know it works I will try to design a logo or something fancier. Paul
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A friend of my was recently redoing a bartop in his man cave and ask me to do some CNC work on the slab he was going to use. The slab was 10’ long, 27” wide and 2” thick. This was one big slab to slide into my CNC. Since there was no straight edge I had to establish some type of straight line to be able to line up the three images he wanted cut into the slab. With a center set, I could then line up the different images on the center line to start the milling. First up was “Blue Blood” on the left side. Then slide this monster through the machine to center the next part. And then one one more move to put the last image into the slab. I used vCarve Desktop to do each section. A screen shot shot of the wild cat. So so he was going to pour Blue Epoxy in each of the images and sand it flat then pour self leveling clear Epoxy over the whole top. He sent me a video of the finished bar top. I did a screenshot so excuse the play button in the middle of the picture. Turned out really nice, he should enjoy this for a long time.
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I had a request for a mountain scene cutting board, laser engraved with names and wedding date. I've done a few of these and they come out looking nice but I doubt one ever gets used for anything exception kitchen art! I drew the original design in CorelDraw where I exported it as an svg to bring into Fusion 360. From there I did the CAD/CAM work to cut the Maple, Walnut, and Cherry. These pieces are about 3/8" thick and the backer board is about 7/8" thick. Everything is glued with TB III and the feet are silicone with SS screws and washers, so everything is FDA approved. After cutting the mountain scene and gluing it to the backer board it goes to the table saw for trimming to size and then to the router table for rounding the edge. I do the names and date in CorelDraw and take that file to the laser shop for engraving. That way they don't have to do anything except load the file and start the laser machine. It's finished in mineral oil with Beeswax (our own mix), even though it'll probably just be eye candy for the kitchen. Sky, mountain, foreground blanks; I picked Walnut with some sapwood to look like snowcapped and some in the foreground - Blanks glued - Blanks glued to backer board - Engraving in the laser - Finished cutting board - Enjoy! David
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Practice inlay piece to test technique for a larger project. This is Walnut, African Mahogany, and Cherry. It’s 12” x 6”. Pockets and inlay pieces were drawn freehand in Fusion 360, cut on the CNC, then each piece hand filed and fitted. Leaf veins were cut by hand, as well. Finish is 2 lb. cut Shellac and applied with French polish method. Veins are highlighted with Mohawk Van Dyke Brown glazing stain. Finish took about 20 minutes from bare wood. Enjoy! David
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I grabbed this photo off our Pastor's FB page and will give this to him tomorrow at church, so he doesn't know I did this for him. This is a photo V carve that I did in Carveco and cut into Maple, about 6" x 11". I used a 60° V bit from Amana and this is my first time to use their bits. This one cut extremely well, btw! Absolutely no tear out on the carving and very clean across the entire board. The finish is my fairly standard for this type of work - Nitrocellulose sanding sealer, Mohawk Van Dyke Brown glazing stain, followed by a coat of semi-gloss lacquer. As is the case with most things, there is a proper viewing distance. The closer you get the less this looks good, but viewed at arm distance or even a little further it looks really good. My iPhone tries to do facial recognition on each face, kinda cool, I think! Close shot - Proper viewing distance - Enjoy! David
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A friend asked if I could make a finger labyrinth for his son. I grabbed a photo off the Internet, did some modifications, and cut this out of Maple for him. It's about 11.5" diameter and finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. David
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Light production, as in 4 from one board, but I think they came out nice. At least they came out like I wanted, anyway. The finish is Nitrocellulose sanding sealer followed by gloss lacquer, then Mohawk glazing stain, final finish is semi-gloss lacquer. These are 9" x 11.25" and the board is the Pine/Spruce/Fir glued up boards they have at Lowe's. David
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This was just a test piece to make sure my file on the CNC was correct, so I grabbed some 1/2" BB before running this on more expensive Maple. Now that I have cut and finished it I may not make another one, not sure yet. I'll give this one to a friend who's on the front line fighting the virus. David
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- american flag
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I have wanted to cut something like this for a while and this looked like a good project to test in Carveco. I knew the cutting would be fairly straight forward but was unsure how long it would take because I haven't calibrated this type of cutting in Carveco. The material is 1/2" MDF and it took 40 minutes cutting at 200 ipm, one pass with a 60° 5/8" diameter V bit, 18k rpm, 0.03125" stepover, and cut depth of 3/16". Except for the perimeter cuts it rarely got close to 200 ipm. I probably could have set it to 400 ipm and the results would have been about the same. My goal was to make it look old, somewhat weathered, like it had been discovered in the sand on Tatooine and had been there for years. In other words, 'pristine and perfect' was NOT my goal. The finishing steps were as follows - 1) two fairly heavy coats of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer, 2) one really heavy coat of Rust Oleum brown Hammered paint, 3) brushed thinned black acrylic into the recessed areas and wiped it off, 4) placed in oven at 170° for a couple of minutes and turned off but allowed the piece to stay in until the oven cooled, and 5) one good coat of Nitrocellulose semi-gloss followed quickly by a lighter dusting coat. The lacquer caused the underlying coats to crackle a bit and gave me the desired look, at least I am pleased with the way it came out. On the CNC - Two coats of sealer - Brown Hammered paint - After black acrylic and wiped off - Aged look - Aged look close up - Enjoy! David
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- star wars
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Today was actually a nice day in the shop. I had time to sit down with my CNC and vCarve Desktop to work on some 1911 grips. I’ve been using my Remington R1 as my test fit piece. These were cut cut but I did t get them sanded and a finish put on them today. I guess I can work on that tomorrow afternoon. mahogany on the top, Purple Heart and Leopard wood on the right. These are all cut from G10 material. Slate color G10 cut with a checking pattern A nice fit on my 1911. Slate G10 Stripes with Mag release cut out. Red and Black G10 with Dots. I sanded this with micro sanding paper then buffed it on my 3 wheel buffer. Nice look. Each set gives the 1911 a total different look. I’ve got to get a few more cut tomorrow. It’s back to work at the Gun Store Monday.
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I'm not a CNC user. Just passing along this link. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMrMqMabXS5_cFcq5K9Ob-w
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I've got a closet in my spare bedroom (storage room) that I wanted to add another clothes hanger rod to. Among my scrap pieces I had two 1.25" diameter closet rod sections that together would be long enough, but neither was long enough on their own. The distance to span is roughly 22". This is a CNC-cut splice joint I came up with to solve the problem. Test cut on smaller scraps shown in the photos. I'm calling it my radial finger joint. Finished spliced rod now loaded with clothes and seems to be able to handle the weight with no complaint. If it does fail eventually I'll report back. 4D
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After reading @Steve Krumanaker blog on his laser, it has interested me greatly, but on the cnc router level. But Steve's blog really got me thinking on this. Been looking at CNC Router home made plans and there is a whole community out there for this type of do-it-yourself and they are very supportive of one another, very open source, free plans, open source software, and just a neat community altogether. Thanks Steve for showing me.
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The CNC forum has moved to The Woodworking Discussion Forum. It is now a sub forum similar to General Woodworking, Turners, etc. Thank you!
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Back in April, my wife's cousin was diagnosed with Stage 4 esophageal cancer. Subsequent testing indicated it had moved into his liver, and there were blood clots. His family and friends organized a benefit for him that was held yesterday. Sadly, Dwight passed away last Saturday morning. He had a lot of friends and they turned out in droves for the benefit. At last count, the live auction had raised over $47K...and almost $4K for the silent auction. BBQ plates - yes many were sold at $10 each. 450 went out to area businesses on Friday, and probably about that many more at the benefit. I contributed to the silent auction by making a sign with the Jack Daniels logo carved into it. As far as I know, it is a one of a kind. It turned out pretty nice and drew a lot of attention. Thirteen bids in all, and yes, some were repeat bidders. My wife said she noticed one lady that kept walking over to check out the latest bid. We think she may have been the eventual high bidder. And the good part is it sold for $240. That made me really happy. But in all honesty, I think it would have sold for more in the live auction, but that wasn't my decision. There were some deep pockets in the crowd. Here are some pictures of the construction and the auction. It was one of my first efforts with the new CNC. It took me longer to design the project than it did to carve it. RIP Dwight Cahanin. Mike
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I need to replicate one part several times. It's 5.5" X 2" X 3/4". Material just needs to be fairly rigid, as in mdf or mdo. If you're interested, shoot me a PM. Thanks in advance for any replies.
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Since this is a forum with a heavy emphasis on patriotism I figured we should have something for those who served in the military. These are the first two I tried. Was also thinking of possibly combining something like this with a bottom "tail" that could be carved with someone's name, dates of service, places of service, or anything one would want. These are cut from 15" blanks. Sizes can be increased to 18 or even 24 inch I would think.
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Not sure if CNC er is a proper word. My name is Scott, I go by Scottart on most forums. I have been a carver for about 40 years. I say carver and not just wood carver as I also have spent some considerable time carving snow and Ice.. We won the national snow carving competition 3 times and have won a number of ice carving events. I also spend a lot of time chainsaw carving and as a result have way to many chainsaws, die grinders, angle grinders, and small dremel like devises by the box load. My wife and I raised 4 kids. the oldest did 9 years in the Marine Corp so we have a strong affection for the members of the services. While I worked a corporate career, we always had a small business selling my art, carvings, paintings, pyrography and in 2012 we opened up a 3000 sft art gallery on the Parks HIghway in WIllow, Alaska. Willow creek Studio. We have about 60 local artists there, and make all kinds of man cave stuff. log furniture, cabin signs, benches and signs for lodges, and just plain old chainsaw carvings and quite a bit of carved relief panels and doors. The CNC is a major part of our business and the largest single contributor to our income stream. I am currently retiring at 61. the Cnc and the gallery are allowing us to transition to retirement about 5 years ahead of prior schedule. So I am a believer in using the cnc to make money... albeit, our investment is significant with 40 years of marketing behind me, years of exposure as and artist, and a gallery on the major highway in Alaska all combine to make it possible. I use Aspire to create almost all of my models. I occasionally sell some of the models and also just donate a few. Each year we set a side some time to donate some projects for some worthy local military groups. Last year it was a memorial for Vietnam era bomber squadron reunion, and currently I am working on a big wall piece for a returning battalion of Air Cavalry troops. I enjoy helping and learning in these blogs..... feel free to contact me any time. www.scottthompsonart. https://www.facebook.com/WillowCreekGallery/?ref=bookmarks tundrafish1@yahoo.com
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I think this is fitting for just about anyone here. Carved from an oddball piece of 16 x 10 cut off aspen.
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- shop signs
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Jay Skelton sent me to Menards and said to get some of these. They are corian, quartz, acrylic (?) pieces that measure about 11.5 inches square. Polish festivals are coming up. Can be used as a trivet, display, or cutting board for serving things like cheese or dips or whatever.
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Had an order for 3 buffalo nickel banks. Since they do involve a lot of time and finishing I decided to make a few extra while I had everything all set up for each stage. Each one (funny how it worked out this way - must be the magic resizing feature of Aspire) was cut from a single 1 x 12 x 48 Baltic birch glued up board that was on sale at Menards earlier. Not as good as David Falkner's videos, but you people are smart and can put it all together. Started by cutting the inside spacers for the $$ and the pieces for the cradles. Then each side of the "coin" had to be cut. This gave us all the pieces necessary for each bank. Some glue, clamps, and a little cussing gave us the rough banks - ready for sanding and filling where necessary. The two piece cradles lined up nicely, and a little time with the Ridgid oscillating belt sander (this is a life saver - $199 well spent) we were ready to finish. A couple coats of Rustoleum aluminum metallic paint (this is some great stuff), two screws through the bottom and we have finished pieces. The nice thing about the CNC is the same file is used over and over. Everything lined up regardless of what pieces were used.
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