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Had a request for a simple Mancave hanging. 5/4 x 11 x 24 piece of nice pine standing in the corner.
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Wow this is pretty cool! Why not! CNC is used for almost any medium right? I don't know much about CNC other than what I read here, but I really thought this cool. They are attaching a Donek D4 Drag knife to their machine.
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I'm wanting to dip my toes into CNC and have been looking for a used CarveWright. I did find one for only $200, but all that's there is the machine and collets. I'm thinking I can get the other stuff easily, like the manual, memory cards and associated hardware, and bits. I also think the CarveWright will do everything I want for now...then I can decide if I want to spend any more money on this stuff. Does anyone have it? I'm looking for holes in my thoughts above about picking up the rest of the needed accessories. This one is the Craftsman labeled version and is listed as being in "good" condition. If I recall these things were about $2000 when introduced.
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As you know I am making my daughter a couple of end tables. My wife suggested I make a couple of coasters with their alma maters in them. The roommate graduated from Lafayette, the Ragin Cajuns…I hope to do my daughters sometime today.
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Guy that bought a couple Polish Eagles last year wanted to know i could make a custom plaque for one of his customers. He sent me a pic and picked up the finished product tonite. 24" in diameter round. Must have liked it - I even got a pretty good tip - which is unusual in this business.
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Anyone have any experience with the shaper origin? I really don’t have room for a full cnc and maybe an alternative? https://www.shapertools.com/en-us/
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Since getting a live edge slab with minimal defects and mess is difficult I made my own. These were cut from a 5/4 x 12 x 48 glued up oak board (both cut from the same board). The "bark" is textured and painted kona brown. Just wish i was a better painter.
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For our Irish members, Happy St. Patrick's Day! (Thursday!) Getting this out a little early today as relatives are expected shortly and staying the rest of the week. Our Patriot Turners- @Steve Krumanaker gave us a look at the start of a beautiful turning to which he has added resin in order to highlight a natural void. Check our Steve's post and the comments from our turners- @jthornton has been showing us some of his turnings and his pampered chickens! Here's one of his gorgeous segmented bowls. He gives us a look at his glue-up procedure- And in this post he goes into more detail about his segment sled used to turn these bowls- What’s Coming Up- Cindy Drozda reminds us the Spring Vendor Showcase is coming up in a couple of weeks. Click on the above image for the link to registration. Don't forget about "Meet The Turner" event this weekend March 19 and 20. Click on the above image for the link to more information. For The Newbies- Cindy Drozda posted a video demonstrating using negative rake scrapers to get a perfect fit. This link takes you to Facebook videos, hope it works for everyone- https://www.facebook.com/cindy.drozda.3/videos/298113892412909/ Expand Your Horizons- Mr. David Reed Smith creates fantastic turnings and always has some interesting jigs to help with making them. Two articles with step by steps on turning a heart- http://davidreedsmith.com/Articles/TurnedHearts/TurnedHearts.html http://davidreedsmith.com/Articles/TurnedHearts/TwoCenterAuxChuck/TwoCenterAuxChuck.html Mike Waldt returns to finish up a bowl- Lyle Jamieson's Hollowing rig was reviewed in Popular Woodworking. Click on the above image for the link to the article. It goes to a Facebook page so I hope it is available for everyone. The latest edition of Woodturning Monthly from The Woodworker's Journal is available. Lots of neat turning ideas. This one looked really interesting for the "tea drinker"- Here's the link to the entire newsletter- https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodturning-monthly/?utm_medium=email New Turning Items- Ruth Niles has the deluxe Pizza Cutters back in stock and a special deal to go along with it! Click on the above image for the link to Ruth's store. Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- I finished up my little Manzanita turning. It measures about 10" x 7" x 2". Turned entirely with Easy Wood Tools products. Finished with a few coats of gloss wipe-on poly. Safe turning
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You've read about these guys buying all these CNC parts and building their machines over several months, setting all the coded parameters with numbers and symbols that mean nothing to us common folk, limit distances, gantry whatevers, and a whole bunch of other technical stuff that is basically very daunting and downright scary. Doesn't have to be that way. Here's how a retired trucker (me) did it. First you open the crate and put the machine on the table you already have ready. Instead of the MDF bed that comes with it -- lay some T-slot from a place like 8020 for easier clamping - - holding the work piece in place with no movement is a must - that's about as hands on as I got doing my "build". Connect the wires to the controller, computer, and monitor Gotta buy a few bits Then you make a design using a good software program - I use Aspire And you're ready to make a little dust And then you get enough nerve to try carving While the others are figuring out whether part XR-145-06214 is compatible with part ZM-34875640 you're on the way!!!!! That's my way of doing a build. Never could figure out how that assembling and programming part by part was done. More power to those guys, but it's above my head. Why I did it this way? One of the head designers at my wife's plant (their machines are $100k up) was building his own at home and told me point blank - "If you can afford to buy a ready made one - do it!"
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From the album: from honesttjohn's Lab
Guy is restoring a 54 (or 55) GMC pick up. Sign was for his company, started by his late father. -
Special request -- 24 x 12 - cut with 1/8" ball nose bit -- took a loooong time
honesttjohn posted a gallery image in CNC
From the album: from honesttjohn's Lab
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Had a lady call who wanted a sign for her husband's hunting camp in northern Michigan. She thought it would be outside so that limited my wood choices. I settled on, what i thought, was a nice piece of cedar. Only had one little knot on the whole 8' 2x6 board as well as some nice grain. So I thought. We went back and forth thru email and settled on a design and I went to work gluing and making sawdust. Cedar is messy i found out. Finished piece is about 25 x 16 and carved from one piece of glued up (Titebond III Ultimate) cedar with 4 coats of spar urathane front and back. She doesn't like it from the pics I sent. Said she'd come over and look and probably take it, but she weren't happy. I thought it turned out pretty good. After all, this is for a male hunting camp, not an art gallery. Talk about an ego buster.
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The gift shop that displays a few of my turnings sold fifteen ornaments for me this year and several honey dipper lids. I don't want my hobby to be a job but a little extra cash lets me spend for the shop without feeling guilty about it. More about that in a minute. I'm working through a batch of honey dipper lids for the spring season now. There will be 25 this time. All of the lids are completed and I have 23 dipper stems done so I only really need to do a couple more tomorrow. However, I have nine more blanks prepped so I'll turn them all and put some in the kitty for next time. Tomorrow I'll also get the laser fired up and etch some of the lids, about half of them probably. Now, about spending some of my stash. I've been intrigued by CNC for a few years, even more so since I got the little laser. I have some ideas about doing some inlay plaques for ornaments and I'm hoping to do it with a little cnc machine. Found this on Amazon. Very affordable at under 250 bucks. It is very small and I'm sure very light duty. It's supposed to have a working area of about 11"X 7". I figure if nothing else it's an inexpensive way to learn about the process and whether or not my ideas will work. Surprisingly, these machines get mostly favorable reviews. We'll see how it goes. I will finish the honey dippers before I mess with it to much but I'm anxious to explore the possibilities.
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So Gerald you inspired me to start embellishing the bottom of my turnings. It occurred to me that the Shaper Origin had potential to make it easy. Before glue up I routed a circle into the bottom piece to exactly match the diameter of the faceplate. After the piece is finished I cut a disc that exactly matches the depression I routed for the faceplate, add whatever engraving I want onto the disc and then glue it into the circular depression. The first one I wasn’t ready to get involved in the design of the engraving and I just added my name. Now that I know it works I will try to design a logo or something fancier. Paul
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A friend of my was recently redoing a bartop in his man cave and ask me to do some CNC work on the slab he was going to use. The slab was 10’ long, 27” wide and 2” thick. This was one big slab to slide into my CNC. Since there was no straight edge I had to establish some type of straight line to be able to line up the three images he wanted cut into the slab. With a center set, I could then line up the different images on the center line to start the milling. First up was “Blue Blood” on the left side. Then slide this monster through the machine to center the next part. And then one one more move to put the last image into the slab. I used vCarve Desktop to do each section. A screen shot shot of the wild cat. So so he was going to pour Blue Epoxy in each of the images and sand it flat then pour self leveling clear Epoxy over the whole top. He sent me a video of the finished bar top. I did a screenshot so excuse the play button in the middle of the picture. Turned out really nice, he should enjoy this for a long time.
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I had a request for a mountain scene cutting board, laser engraved with names and wedding date. I've done a few of these and they come out looking nice but I doubt one ever gets used for anything exception kitchen art! I drew the original design in CorelDraw where I exported it as an svg to bring into Fusion 360. From there I did the CAD/CAM work to cut the Maple, Walnut, and Cherry. These pieces are about 3/8" thick and the backer board is about 7/8" thick. Everything is glued with TB III and the feet are silicone with SS screws and washers, so everything is FDA approved. After cutting the mountain scene and gluing it to the backer board it goes to the table saw for trimming to size and then to the router table for rounding the edge. I do the names and date in CorelDraw and take that file to the laser shop for engraving. That way they don't have to do anything except load the file and start the laser machine. It's finished in mineral oil with Beeswax (our own mix), even though it'll probably just be eye candy for the kitchen. Sky, mountain, foreground blanks; I picked Walnut with some sapwood to look like snowcapped and some in the foreground - Blanks glued - Blanks glued to backer board - Engraving in the laser - Finished cutting board - Enjoy! David
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Practice inlay piece to test technique for a larger project. This is Walnut, African Mahogany, and Cherry. It’s 12” x 6”. Pockets and inlay pieces were drawn freehand in Fusion 360, cut on the CNC, then each piece hand filed and fitted. Leaf veins were cut by hand, as well. Finish is 2 lb. cut Shellac and applied with French polish method. Veins are highlighted with Mohawk Van Dyke Brown glazing stain. Finish took about 20 minutes from bare wood. Enjoy! David
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I grabbed this photo off our Pastor's FB page and will give this to him tomorrow at church, so he doesn't know I did this for him. This is a photo V carve that I did in Carveco and cut into Maple, about 6" x 11". I used a 60° V bit from Amana and this is my first time to use their bits. This one cut extremely well, btw! Absolutely no tear out on the carving and very clean across the entire board. The finish is my fairly standard for this type of work - Nitrocellulose sanding sealer, Mohawk Van Dyke Brown glazing stain, followed by a coat of semi-gloss lacquer. As is the case with most things, there is a proper viewing distance. The closer you get the less this looks good, but viewed at arm distance or even a little further it looks really good. My iPhone tries to do facial recognition on each face, kinda cool, I think! Close shot - Proper viewing distance - Enjoy! David
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A friend asked if I could make a finger labyrinth for his son. I grabbed a photo off the Internet, did some modifications, and cut this out of Maple for him. It's about 11.5" diameter and finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. David
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Light production, as in 4 from one board, but I think they came out nice. At least they came out like I wanted, anyway. The finish is Nitrocellulose sanding sealer followed by gloss lacquer, then Mohawk glazing stain, final finish is semi-gloss lacquer. These are 9" x 11.25" and the board is the Pine/Spruce/Fir glued up boards they have at Lowe's. David
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This was just a test piece to make sure my file on the CNC was correct, so I grabbed some 1/2" BB before running this on more expensive Maple. Now that I have cut and finished it I may not make another one, not sure yet. I'll give this one to a friend who's on the front line fighting the virus. David
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I have wanted to cut something like this for a while and this looked like a good project to test in Carveco. I knew the cutting would be fairly straight forward but was unsure how long it would take because I haven't calibrated this type of cutting in Carveco. The material is 1/2" MDF and it took 40 minutes cutting at 200 ipm, one pass with a 60° 5/8" diameter V bit, 18k rpm, 0.03125" stepover, and cut depth of 3/16". Except for the perimeter cuts it rarely got close to 200 ipm. I probably could have set it to 400 ipm and the results would have been about the same. My goal was to make it look old, somewhat weathered, like it had been discovered in the sand on Tatooine and had been there for years. In other words, 'pristine and perfect' was NOT my goal. The finishing steps were as follows - 1) two fairly heavy coats of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer, 2) one really heavy coat of Rust Oleum brown Hammered paint, 3) brushed thinned black acrylic into the recessed areas and wiped it off, 4) placed in oven at 170° for a couple of minutes and turned off but allowed the piece to stay in until the oven cooled, and 5) one good coat of Nitrocellulose semi-gloss followed quickly by a lighter dusting coat. The lacquer caused the underlying coats to crackle a bit and gave me the desired look, at least I am pleased with the way it came out. On the CNC - Two coats of sealer - Brown Hammered paint - After black acrylic and wiped off - Aged look - Aged look close up - Enjoy! David
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