Handfoolery Posted October 31 Author Report Posted October 31 (edited) Finally, it is time for finish application. Finish is Mohawk Nitrocellulose Musical Instrument Lacquer. I use a Preval Sprayer, a unit which consists of an aerosol pump sprayer connected to a glass pint jar. It will allow me to shoot professional grade finish without a compressor, as well as allow mixing of tints and solid colors if desired. As you can see, full safety equipment is mandatory; nitro is a noxious, poisonous finish, but there is nothing quite like it, IMHO. Edited October 31 by Handfoolery Grandpadave52, aaronc, lew and 1 other 4 Quote
Handfoolery Posted October 31 Author Report Posted October 31 Final shots. Grandpadave52, Headhunter, lew and 1 other 3 1 Quote
Handfoolery Posted October 31 Author Report Posted October 31 While the finish cures, lets make a bridge! I start with a rosewood blank and my bench hook. and chop off one end. lew, aaronc, Grandpadave52 and 1 other 4 Quote
Handfoolery Posted October 31 Author Report Posted October 31 Then the other. String hole locations are then drilled to /8". aaronc, Grandpadave52 and lew 3 Quote
Handfoolery Posted October 31 Author Report Posted October 31 My apologies for the exposure. I am working outdoors and sometimes it cannot be helped. The light is ever changing. I use a coping sawe to define the shape. Headhunter, lew, Grandpadave52 and 1 other 4 Quote
Handfoolery Posted October 31 Author Report Posted October 31 And a chisel to shape the wings. followed with a card scraper aaronc, lew, Headhunter and 1 other 4 Quote
Popular Post Handfoolery Posted October 31 Author Popular Post Report Posted October 31 Before I can proceed to wshape the bridge any further it's bottom needs to be conformed to the radius of the top it will be glued to. The bridge is essentially a large brace for the top, and it needs to be mated in the same way the braces on the underside are. I use a card scraper to slightly hollow the bottom out before hand, just to get a head start. After which I tape some 80 grit to the top of the guitar roughly at the bridge location. Then it's just a matter of sanding sanding sanding, being careful not to use too much pressure and put marks in the soft cedar top. And after an almost intolerable period of time, we pull the paper away and see if we left any marks. Whew! Dodged a bullet. Grandpadave52, lew, aaronc and 2 others 5 Quote
Popular Post Handfoolery Posted October 31 Author Popular Post Report Posted October 31 Job done. lew, Grandpadave52, Gunny and 2 others 5 Quote
Handfoolery Posted October 31 Author Report Posted October 31 All for now. We are caught up until the next video. Thanks for looking at, liking and commenting. Headhunter, Grandpadave52, Gunny and 1 other 3 1 Quote
Popular Post Grandpadave52 Posted November 1 Popular Post Report Posted November 1 Thanks for all the progress pics and updates Mike. The guitar body turned out fantastic. The neck and fretboard are spectacular. One beautiful instrument. I anticipate it will sound equally well. I've definitely enjoyed following this build. Looking forward to the next updates. Headhunter, lew, Gunny and 2 others 5 Quote
Popular Post Gunny Posted November 1 Popular Post Report Posted November 1 Impressive, used to have a guy down the street that made clarinets. Quite the craftsman. aaronc, lew, Headhunter and 2 others 5 Quote
Popular Post Handfoolery Posted November 2 Author Popular Post Report Posted November 2 Thanks, gentlemen. I still have quite a bit to go. Need to flat sand and buff the finish, fret the instrument, remove finish under the fretboard extension and bridge, glue the neck to the body, make nut and saddle, and do all of the general setup to make it play well. IF I can get a day that is warm enough and free of other things that need doing. But hopefully not much longer. And I look forward to hearing the first chords. Headhunter, Gunny, BB1 and 3 others 6 Quote
Popular Post Handfoolery Posted November 15 Author Popular Post Report Posted November 15 (edited) So the next step in the process is to rout the saddle slot. I need to do this before I radius the top of the bridge, while it is still flat. I use a 1/8th inch router bit. I use the same router jig I use to cut the truss rod slot. I angle the bridge on the centerline of the jig so that I get the angle on the slot that I need for string compensation. I place a stop at each end because the slot has to be routed in multiple passes to avoid snapping the router bit. Edited November 15 by Handfoolery Grandpadave52, Gunny, aaronc and 3 others 6 Quote
Popular Post Handfoolery Posted November 15 Author Popular Post Report Posted November 15 Then it is just a matter of making those aforementioned passes, relying on the stops to keep me at the proper length for the slot. Gunny, Fred W. Hargis Jr, DuckSoup and 3 others 6 Quote
Popular Post Handfoolery Posted November 15 Author Popular Post Report Posted November 15 (edited) And the finished result. Next job is to radius the top of the bridge. Thank you to everyone who is hanging in there with me. Much appreciated. Edited November 15 by Handfoolery Headhunter, aaronc, Fred W. Hargis Jr and 4 others 7 Quote
Popular Post lew Posted November 15 Popular Post Report Posted November 15 Amazing work! DuckSoup, Grandpadave52, aaronc and 2 others 5 Quote
Handfoolery Posted November 15 Author Report Posted November 15 36 minutes ago, lew said: Amazing work! Thanks very much, Lew! lew, Gunny and Grandpadave52 3 Quote
Popular Post DuckSoup Posted November 16 Popular Post Report Posted November 16 Coming along great. How did you hold your piece in place while routing? lew, Gunny, aaronc and 3 others 6 Quote
Handfoolery Posted November 19 Author Report Posted November 19 On 11/16/2025 at 12:18 PM, DuckSoup said: Coming along great. How did you hold your piece in place while routing? Thanks! Double stick tape. DuckSoup, lew, Grandpadave52 and 1 other 3 1 Quote
Gunny Posted November 19 Report Posted November 19 Looks great! Handfoolery, lew and Grandpadave52 3 Quote
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