I was reading a thread about glue strength and someone offered this article from Fine Woodworking about their glue tests. 

 

http://www.oldbrownglue.com/images/articles/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf

I have never put anywhere near that kind of stress on anything I have built.  Good to know though.

No real surprises there. Looks like the results we have always talked about and read about in tests.

     PVA cannot be beat for wood joints

     Glue starvation is a myth.

      The glue is stronger than the wood.

       Proper joint preparation is almost as important as all other considerations put together.

        Polyurethane is not as great as the Gorilla says.

Always interesting to see for the beginners and no change for us old timers.  

They all seem to be stronger than any forces that are applied to things I make, can't imagine forces that high being applied to furniture. Even 2-300# people sitting on a bench doesn't come near that kind of force.

 

Herb

why wasn't Weldbond included in the test???

it's a waterproof PVE, not susceptible to heat like PVA and has a longer open time than PVA.....

glues more than just wood because it is an adhesive...

Weldbond Specifications & Instructions

Maybe they left it off the list cause they couldn't spell it... I do that quite often or hunt around trying to find a word meaning the same with easier spelling!!!! 

 

Life is hard with my brain sleeping most of the time..

4 hours ago, Gerald said:

No real surprises there. Looks like the results we have always talked about and read about in tests.

     PVA cannot be beat for wood joints

     Glue starvation is a myth.

      The glue is stronger than the wood. (note 1)

       Proper joint preparation is almost as important as all other considerations put together.

        Polyurethane is not as great as the Gorilla says.

Always interesting to see for the beginners and no change for us old timers.  

Agree completely and will add - most glues have at most 10% difference in shear strength. However (note 1)

I stopped using glue when I got a TIG welder.  Now I just draw a puddle and weld the lumber.

 

Thanks Lew...

I've seen several episodes of the Woodsmith Shop (PBS TV) they've been using Titebond Liquid "Hide Glue" on their furniture projects especially when they want longer set-up times.

Do/have any of you used this glue?  If not why? Experiences either way. Applications? Where have you purchased it?

One of Menards stores carried it for a while, but no longer. Neither does our local BORG or Big Blue...assume Woodcraft & Rockler both do, but I seldom get to that side of Indy anymore.

Thanks in advance for the input.

 

@lew @HandyDan @Stick486 @Gerald @Dadio @Smallpatch @Cliff

Edited May 28, 20188 yr by Grandpadave52

Have not looked lately but the orange box used to carry some hide glue liquid

@Grandpadave52 I have never used it because I have never seen the need.  The PVA glue is my go to glue.  What would be the advantage of the hide glue?  Longer open time maybe?

I have not used the hide glue. Most of my projects don’t require that much extra glue up time. When I need a little additional time I’ll use TiteBond III. 

59 minutes ago, HandyDan said:

What would be the advantage of the hide glue? 

I have used hide.  It's got some neat aspects.  For one it is sort of self clamping sucking in tight as it cools.  It can be disassembled easily with a little heat.   It comes in a variety of strengths some so strong that you can coat glass with it and as it cools it literally pulls flakes of  glass off the surface making for a neat quazi frosted effect.   It is every bit as strong as polyvinyl.

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/advantages-hide-glue/.

Wow Cliff, I welded for over 40 years TIG, MIG, MMA, and never learned to weld using that wood wire. I must have missed something somewhere.

44 minutes ago, It Was Al B said:

Wow Cliff, I welded for over 40 years TIG, MIG, MMA, and never learned to weld using that wood wire. I must have missed something somewhere.

Its a stick welder. You use a dowel rod, Al. 

3 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Thanks Lew...

I've seen several episodes of the Woodsmith Shop (PBS TV) they've been using Titebond Liquid "Hide Glue" on their furniture projects especially when they want longer set-up times.

Do/have any of you used this glue?  If not why? Experiences either way. Applications? Where have you purchased it?

One of Menards stores carried it for a while, but no longer. Neither does our local BORG or Big Blue...assume Woodcraft & Rockler both do, but I seldom get to that side of Indy anymore.

Thanks in advance for the input.

 

@lew @HandyDan @Stick486 @Gerald @Dadio @Smallpatch @Cliff

I use it when I am veneering wood. It has a longer set time and is thinner than TBII. Not water proof tho, I use TBII for everything else, don't know what PV it is.

 

Herb

1 hour ago, It Was Al B said:

and never learned to weld using that wood wire

pine rod...

I've found that titebond 111 provides enough open time for my glue-ups, and I do like horses.

Hide glue was used on antique and fine furniture. Only thing available when antiques made (ok they were not antique when made). Biggest advantage as stated was reversibility of the joint making repairs possible without destroying the piece or remaking several joints.

On 5/28/2018 at 3:54 PM, It Was Al B said:

never learned to weld using that wood wire

I have maple, oak ,balsa, and tiger wood  wire.  It's really all in the settings.  Ya gotta get the amps just right to soften the lignun and facilitate good penetration.