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Found 5 results

  1. I was working on a finishing presentation last week. I thought I had a reference in one of my books on decoding Minwax stains into pigment, dye, or both. I don't use them too much any more, but I happened to use some Golden Oak a few weeks ago. I've had good luck with it on red oak and I know it's dye based. But I could not find the reference. After much looking, I wrote to Minwax tech support and asked. They told me all they used were pigments. Idiot. I wrote to Bob Flexner to see if he had ever done the catalog. Low and behold, it's in this week's blog entry. I guess I'm his "woodworking friend." https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-woodworking-blogs/is-there-pigment-or-dye-in-minwax-stains-does-it-matter
  2. I have a question. I'm prepppng to finish a pair of cherry bookcases. The designer that hired me has requested a red oak stain to put over the cherry to get the right color. I am concerned about the cherry blotching so I want to use a conditioner. However, Idon't want to lighten the color that the designer selected. Here's the question. Can MinWax pre stain conditioner be thinned? If so, with what? Clean up is with MS so is that the thinner?
  3. Larry Cutlip

    Stain on vinyl siding

    Is there anything that will take minwax wood stain off of vinyl siding? Larry
  4. This is a cut and paste of some info I posted on the old WOOD Finishing forum. Polyshades there was often called "The Worst Thing to Happen to a Can" If you did a search there on "polyshades," you will see dozens of "I applied Polyshades...How do I fix this mess?" posts. Polyshades -- the "all in one" wood finish I got a book at a used book sale on wood finishing, copyright, 1954. There is a section is on "Varnish Stains" by which I presume the author's talking about products like Polyshades. He's less glowing about these: "The results of this attempt [to use] do not always turn out as desired. You discover that you have neither stained the wood properly not applied a good coat of varnish. The reason for this should be quite obvious. The properties of a good stain are penetration and clarity. The varnish stain has neither of these qualities. It does not penetrate the surface, and the varnish diminishes its transparency. The result of using this stain is a muddy, streaky surface on the wood. Yet these stains are used by many, because it is believe that time and money are being saved." To this I see some things have not changed, it's still cr@p. Now, I will say that often factory furniture has a "toner" (AKA "shader") as its all-in-one finish. Generally, I see this on cheaper furniture. The disadvantage with these is that they can be opaque (not bad if you are trying to hide cheap wood) and if you get a chip or wear in the finish, you are down to bare wood. They do come in handy, but there are these disadvantages. And it's my opinion that toners need to be sprayed to make a decent finish. Generally in light coats because you go from OK to too dark or too opaque very quickly. Brushing can lead to streaks and if applied too heavily runs and curtains of color. Why are Minwax Wood Finishes really just stains and don't contain wax? On the section on "stains" the author talks about "Wax stains," being a "mixture of penetrating oil stains mixed with wax and a drying agent." He goes on to say they, "give a rich soft wax finish." In the accompanying photo, he shows a can of "Minwax Wood Finish." Now, this is old enough that I was not around doing any wood finishing. A bit more research: https://www.minwax.com/about-us/minwax-story/ [Sometime after 1916] Mr. Harrison developed a liquefied formula containing paraffin that would penetrate and seal the stone [Cleopatra's Needle in NYC] with a brush application. A wood scaffold was erected around the monument for the project. While brushing on the preparation, the workers noticed that drips and spills on the scaffolding beautified the wood. In fact, the scaffold looked like it had been treated to a paste wax finish, yet it was not slippery to walk on.The formula was refined and introduced to architects who began to specify it for wide use on floors and woodwork in public buildings and fine homes. In the late 1940s and early '50s, Minwax® moved into the consumer market. ... The product itself was redesigned and improved for homeowner use, and the wax in the finish was replaced by varnish gums, making the new Wood Finish™ the first modern "quick-drying" product.
  5. Finish is on the table, trying a few "new" things Minwax Maple for the stain. Krylon triple glaze for the shine part. Letting the first coat dry in the sun, and wind Legs seem to blend right in.. "Rose" gives it three blooms up

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