I have a question.  I'm prepppng to finish a pair of cherry bookcases. The designer that hired me has requested a red oak stain to put over the cherry to get the right color.  I am concerned about the cherry blotching so I want to use a conditioner. However, Idon't want to lighten the color that the designer selected.  Here's the question.   Can MinWax pre stain conditioner be thinned?  If so, with what?  Clean up is with MS so is that the thinner?

Sounds like a question for Keith. I've only used Charles Neal's connditioner and, only on maple so, no help here. 

Ron, according to the SDS it's already 90% solvents (89% is just MS), so I'm not sure how further thinning would change the look of wood...but I'd bet it's not much.

Interesting note on the effectiveness of Minwax Pre-Stain.    As it turns out, using it as directed is not the best way.   The reason is, it's just a highly thinned finish (probably varnish) and 30 minutes is insufficient time to cure.  I ran some tests of poplar and found the longer I had it on, the better it worked.  But still not perfect in my trials.   But perhaps an even better explanation is that Minwax pigment-based stains tent to blotch worse than higher quality stains, in my experience. Be sure to page forward to p2 of this article...  https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/wood_conditioner_confusion

 

But to answer your question, yes, a pre-stain conditioner (or wash coat) will usually lighten the effective color.

 

You have a few other options:

• use a better stain, or a dye-based stain
• use a coat of boiled linseed oil and some time in the sun to accelerate the aged look
• use a gel stain.
• use a wash coat of shellac. http://www.refinishwizard.com/washcoatsolids.htm
• use a spray-on toner (NOT Polyshades)
• use a glaze after a coat or two of clear finish to adjust the color (burnt sienna or burnt umber depending on where you want the color to go,  sienna will be brighter red, umber, darker)

Note, these colors may vary by vendor, but are usually close

Burnt Sienna

 

 

 

 Burnt umber

 

 

Like any new process -- TRY IT OUT ON SCRAP BEFORE JUST PUTTING IT FRONT AND CENTER OF YOUR PROJECT.

Keith, it appears you're not a Minwax fan, either.

37 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Keith, it appears you're not a Minwax fan, either.

"Friends don't let friends use Minwax."  

Thanks Keith. I figured you'd have the answer.   My first would have been a water soluble dye but the sample boards I gave the designer were done with MinWax so I am kinda stuck.  It's ok for a DIYer I guess.   As for the conditioner, I ran a sample board and it clearly is lighter.  So, it's either run the risk of  blotch or a little lighter shade.  The home office that the pieces are going in is very dark so we'll see I guess.  Thanks again guys.