September 1, 20169 yr This is a cut and paste of some info I posted on the old WOOD Finishing forum. Polyshades there was often called "The Worst Thing to Happen to a Can" If you did a search there on "polyshades," you will see dozens of "I applied Polyshades...How do I fix this mess?" posts. Polyshades -- the "all in one" wood finish I got a book at a used book sale on wood finishing, copyright, 1954. There is a section is on "Varnish Stains" by which I presume the author's talking about products like Polyshades. He's less glowing about these: "The results of this attempt [to use] do not always turn out as desired. You discover that you have neither stained the wood properly not applied a good coat of varnish. The reason for this should be quite obvious. The properties of a good stain are penetration and clarity. The varnish stain has neither of these qualities. It does not penetrate the surface, and the varnish diminishes its transparency. The result of using this stain is a muddy, streaky surface on the wood. Yet these stains are used by many, because it is believe that time and money are being saved." To this I see some things have not changed, it's still cr@p. Now, I will say that often factory furniture has a "toner" (AKA "shader") as its all-in-one finish. Generally, I see this on cheaper furniture. The disadvantage with these is that they can be opaque (not bad if you are trying to hide cheap wood) and if you get a chip or wear in the finish, you are down to bare wood. They do come in handy, but there are these disadvantages. And it's my opinion that toners need to be sprayed to make a decent finish. Generally in light coats because you go from OK to too dark or too opaque very quickly. Brushing can lead to streaks and if applied too heavily runs and curtains of color. Why are Minwax Wood Finishes really just stains and don't contain wax? On the section on "stains" the author talks about "Wax stains," being a "mixture of penetrating oil stains mixed with wax and a drying agent." He goes on to say they, "give a rich soft wax finish." In the accompanying photo, he shows a can of "Minwax Wood Finish." Now, this is old enough that I was not around doing any wood finishing. A bit more research: https://www.minwax.com/about-us/minwax-story/ [Sometime after 1916] Mr. Harrison developed a liquefied formula containing paraffin that would penetrate and seal the stone [Cleopatra's Needle in NYC] with a brush application. A wood scaffold was erected around the monument for the project. While brushing on the preparation, the workers noticed that drips and spills on the scaffolding beautified the wood. In fact, the scaffold looked like it had been treated to a paste wax finish, yet it was not slippery to walk on.The formula was refined and introduced to architects who began to specify it for wide use on floors and woodwork in public buildings and fine homes. In the late 1940s and early '50s, Minwax® moved into the consumer market. ... The product itself was redesigned and improved for homeowner use, and the wax in the finish was replaced by varnish gums, making the new Wood Finish™ the first modern "quick-drying" product. Edited September 1, 20169 yr by kmealy
September 1, 20169 yr Interesting it was recognized as crud that far back, and yet it's still on the market!
September 1, 20169 yr There is one can in my shop. Used it once, years ago and sealed it up. Suppose I really should dispose of it.
September 1, 20169 yr Used it once and had to sand and paint over it! When I worked in the hardware store it was difficult to talk people out of using it. All they saw was "stain and finish in one coat"!
September 1, 20169 yr Author Me, too, I tried Polyshades once when my father in law passed away out of town and there was a worn spot on the kitchen cabinets. I wiped on a little, wiped it back off, put the lid back on and returned it. I had to strip a handrail once that was done in a pickled white finish and some idiot decided to put on Polyshades to make it dark. It literally looked like someone puked all over it after binging on chocolate.
September 17, 20169 yr I believe the only reason this is still on the market is because many, probably most DIY'ers are looking to get it done quickly. A way to stain and apply a finish in one step. I've seen jobs where only only one coat was applied and left as good enough. It never looked good to me, and I've never used it myself..Staining is a process by itself. then finishing with a minimum of 2 brushed on coats of whatever finish used in home building projects. I don't think Polyshades is in a woodworkers vocabulary.
September 17, 20169 yr Oh, I do have a quart can of the stuff.....use it to mix all the leftover stains, BLO, and varnish in the shop.....The Infamous Witch's Brew. Rather than have a shelf full of almost empty cans..... After a year or three, more or less blended away the "Polyshades" part of it.... Dad used to use the stuff all the time.....I hated the stuff. I much prefer to stain then varnish, so I can control both as needed.
September 17, 20169 yr Yup, been there done it, and never will use it again. It's a crime to even have it on market still.
September 23, 20169 yr I thought I'd chime in here. I've used Polyshades a couple of times, and I admit, there are better options, but I think I had good results in my two uses. In one instance, I finished a cabinet out of reclaimed pine, and the second was when I rebuilt my stairs in my house. In both instances, I thinned it slightly, and used it as a wipe on application. After I reached the desired color, I top coated with a couple of coats of satin polyurethane. I was pleased with the results. I'm not the best photographer, so the color on the stairs looks a lot different in the two photos. I think possibly because on the front on photo, I was standing outside shooting the photo thru my open front door. My point is, if you treat it right, Polyshades will work well. Granted, I built a small cabinet a few years later to match up with the bath cabinet, and I used garnet shellac with 2 coats of P&L38 as a topcoat, and got a real close color match. The only difference was the polyshades even in satin finish, finished with more luster than the P&L38. And I did the stairs about 9 years ago. The finish is wearing like polyurethane!
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