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Found 12 results

  1. skiler

    Help

    Need help identifying this wood and finish. It looks like pine to me but could be really knotty cherry. The finish almost looks orange. I am trying to build something to match it and not sure how to go about it. Any help greatly appreciated.
  2. Three things that affect the finished color of a project 1. The wood. You would not expect the same resulting color if you applied the same products to, say, pine, poplar, walnut, maple, cherry, or white oak. Each wood will impart not only its own natural color, but the grain and porosity of the wood can affect how it absorbs the upper layers. I have applied exactly the same stain to ash and red oak, that look very similar in the rough (ring porous woods) and on red oak it comes out a light brown and on ash, a light yellow. 2. The colorant. The dyes and/or pigments in a stain, glaze or toner will obviously impact the resulting color. And it may interact with the underlying wood. For example, if you add a raw umber color, normally a darkish green to a wood like cherry with a lot of natural red, they will neutralize each other and come up with more of a brown result. If you put raw umber on maple, you are going to see more of that greenish color. 3. The finish. All finishes can add (or omit) color. Waterborne finishes and lacquers called "water-white" add virtually no color. These are great if you don't want added color, for example over a pickled finish. On the other hand, they can look like the finish is washed out. Shellac comes in different grades from super blond, blonde, lemon, orange and garnet. Sometimes they are called light amber, amber, natural, or whatever just to confuse us. Varnishes (oil-based) generally have an amber color. Exactly what depends on the mix of which oil and which resin. Soy-alkyd, linseed-urethane, or tung-phenolic are the common combinations and vary from light to dark amber, respectively. So that is why when you are doing test boards on scrap, you need to use the same wood, the same colorant, and the same finish, all the way to completion. Also, the color you get on day one may not the color 10 years down the road. Woods tend to change color - cherry darkens, walnut lightens, and maple ambers. Dyes and pigments tend to fade in light, dyes usually more so. And if you have a colorant with two or more ingredients, one of them might change faster than the others. So an amber might fade to an orange. On one hand you have the woods going one way and perhaps the colorants going the other, each at their own rate.
  3. Gerald

    Mahogany shelves

    Started on this back in the summer and had it shelved til some other things got done. Son bought a new house in NC and Dil wanted shelves to match stair rail. So we went and found this mahogany 14 foot by20 inch by 2. Had to cut it to get into his suburban. Then I get the"privilege" to bring it home to work on. Took them til last month to decide on shelf brackets . Yes I am making those too. Ordered the stain that was used for existing Cabot mahonany flame in the old oil formula ( read the new is WB and not good). It is labeled outdoor use only, must be a CYOA. So got the stain on today and waiting for decision on clear. The second pic is prototype bracket.
  4. Gerald

    Stain on alder

    I am in Asheville , NC and my son wants shelves to match what looks like tigerwood. We know it is stained . Looking at maybe alder or red oak. I am familiar with oak but how dark of a stain will alder take (this looks like mahogany, maybe little lighter). And how easy will it be to get that dark color on it. Have not worked with alder before. Or is it better to just use the oak?
  5. Gerald

    New colors

    Did some color work on Beads of Courage bowls. Wood is pecan and it was almost white so adding color.
  6. Jay

    Easy project

    Sorry havent been on in a while. Lifes been hectic. But made the most beautiful easiest project to date. Forgot before pic. Was bleached white and dry as a desert fom exp to sun for 5 yrs. Threw some sodona red on it and it sucked it up like an alcoholic that hasnt drank in days lol
  7. Jay

    Stain????

    So theres something i want to make. Best way to make a through and through inlay (complex and nit alot to work with as far as small details for a snug fit. Also is there blue stain? Im broke so if there is and anyone knows how can i make it? A stain to compliment this in relation to ol' glory. TYIA
  8. Fred Wilson

    Staining Confusion

    So - there I was - working on my web site to update the colors available on my Quarter Map frames (and other frames). Lately I have been using Varathane stains. The only reason for using Varathane over MinWax or other staining applications, is that the Varathane dries more quickly than others (in my shop). Going after color charts, I visited both Varathane and MinWax web sites. In reading about the two, I came up with completely opposite methods for applying the stain. At http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/varathane/premium-wood-stains, (Varathane), they say: " For Best Results - Stir thoroughly. On bare wood apply the stain across the grain until the wood is saturated on top. Wipe off the excess after 5-10 minutes." At http://www.minwax.com/woodworking-videos/new-featured/three-step-wood-finishing-process(MinWax) they say to apply the stain with the grain. Personally I have always gone with the grain. How about y'all, do you go WITH or ACROSS the grain when staining. I think we all agree that when wiping off excess we go with the grain.
  9. DRAGON1

    2nd floor

    From the album: CHESTNUT

    HOUSE IN GLEN RIDGE, 150 YEARS OLD
  10. markc1107

    End Table

    From the album: Pine Is Fine Custom Cabinets and Furniture

    The solid pine end table is done. We stained it Golden Oak and put a coat of satin polyurethane.
  11. markc1107

    Maple And Red Oak Toy Box

    From the album: Pine Is Fine Custom Cabinets and Furniture

    Here is the finished product for the Maple and Red Oak Toy Box. The client picked out an Early American stain, to give it that 18th/19th century look. You can also use this as a heirloom blanket chest.
  12. steven newman

    The $5 Coffin Smoother Rehab

    Awhile back, picked a Scioto works #8 coffin style smooth plane at an antique toy store.    Missing a bolt to hold the iron and chipbreaker together.   Missing the strike button on the backside.    So, Found a tap that was close to the size i needed to make a new thread in the chipbreaker.   Turned out to be a 10-1.5 Metric plug tap.    Ok, we have the matching bolts at work.    Brought one home that I found on the floor.   It came out of the shelving system they use.    Takes a 6mm allen wrench to loosen.   Ground the head down a bit, to almost flat.   And still leave a bit for the wrench to grab into.  Shorten the threaded part a bunch.   had to clear the wedge.    Sharpened the iron  back up, adjust the chip-breaker for a better fit.   Beltsander and sandpaper on a tile to sharpen the iron.   A look at the back side Soaked the wood body in a BLO/ Varnish/ Walnut stain mix.....about ten coats.    Wood was VERY dried out.   Markings on  the iron are from Ohio Tool Co.    Thistle Brand Made in USA Took a handplane to the sole for a tune up. nise was worn quite a bit.   Got the sole nice and flat, and gave it a coat Yep, there is a crack in the heel.    Right where the missing strike button USED to be.   Guess that is why it is AWOL.    Decided to make something to take it's place.    Didn't like the idea of a carriage bolt stuck up in there.   Didn't have a big enough bolt, so, a washer of sorts was made, and a smaller bolt added.    Filled the hole with glue, and tapped the parts in place Almost like a Lincoln's spare tire..... Got everything back together for a test drive The shaving is the full width of the pine scrap I was using.    Had it set a bit deep, though.     Not too bad for a $5 plane  

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