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Found 24 results

  1. OK guys and gals, what is your secret for staining end grain. I went though every grit of sant paper I have from 80 - to 220 and still got this result (note corners). I am afraid to stain the lid for fear of getting same result on the end grain! Thanks
  2. Hi, I’m back looking for more advice. My nephew is autistic. My SIL (sister-in-law) showed me a picture of an awards shelf from a catalog and asked me if I could make one for Nino (nephew). He is active in the Special Olympics, and has lots of medals to display. Basically simple, maybe a 3 foot long x 3/4x 16 inch back board, with 2 side brackets, and a top shelf across. 24 pegs, staggered for the medals to hang on. I can do this, My question is-I’m thinking of using pine for this, the local Lowes has some really good, no knots, pieces. I have some cherry stain left over from last years mangers I made. Any issues staining pine? Sand it down to 220, glue/assemble, stain?
  3. Gerald

    New colors

    Did some color work on Beads of Courage bowls. Wood is pecan and it was almost white so adding color.
  4. So theres something i want to make. Best way to make a through and through inlay (complex and nit alot to work with as far as small details for a snug fit. Also is there blue stain? Im broke so if there is and anyone knows how can i make it? A stain to compliment this in relation to ol' glory. TYIA
  5. It appears the minwax penetraing stain actually also has a dye. Can anyone confrim this?
  6. Working on a current project (much interrupted by other work). Finally got the stain on and despite a sample board from a previous can, it came out way too red for my objective. Well, there are ways to adjust the color in flight. Or as I say, use the stain to get the the right church and glazes and toners to get to the right pew. Maybe in this case, it was the church across the street. Using some color theory, the complement of red, and what neutralizes it, is green. In finishing terms the green used is Raw Umber. I ran some samples. And I added a couple of other of my commonly-used color glazes. I mix up my own glazes from my UTC (universal tinting colors -- the same as on the rotary where you get your paint color blended from a base). But you can buy pre-mixed glazes, custom mixed glazes from glaze base, or even gel stains (though you are unlikely to find a gel stain called VanDyke, Warm Brown, or Raw Umber) Shop-blended ones: Store-bought ones I liked the VanDyke the best, and so did the customer (daughter). So off to adjust the color from reddish to more of the brown we're trying to get Need to let the glaze dry for a day (or whenever I can get back to it) and top coat. (to be continued) Some notes: Why I used a glaze instead of a toner (finish with color in it) 1. Glazes are ultimately manipulative. I can wipe off a little more of a little less. They have long open times so I can play with it, even wipe 90%+ off if I want. I can add two glazes on top of each other, while still wet or while dry. Or I can add one glaze, put on a coat of finish to seal it, and if it still needs more work add the same or different color in another round. 2. Toners need to be sprayed, IMO and the little cubby-holes in these units were difficult to get a spray gun in and the cabinet with doors has an unstained interior to make it lighter. 3. I am using a water-borne finish on this (Enduro-Var) so need compatible (water-based) glazes, that are difficult, if not impossible, to find. So I mix my own. 4. Toners tend to even out the color, glazes, on oak, tend to accentuate (highlight) the difference between grain pores and flat areas. More reading: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/friends-finisher-glazes-toners-wax/ I first got introduced to glazes when I worked with a local author (though in a very minor way) when she wrote a book for F+W Publishing. She did amazing stuff with glazes.
  7. For you guys that's worried about trying to decide what it is I do, I don't know either but I sure have fun in the shop at doing what ever it is. This new stuff is from Michaels and is less that 1.50 for a 2 ounce bottle after the discount...so I got 20 different colors.. With and with out the flash!!!! I haven't put any clear on yet. The stains I've been using for years is what I brought when we moved from the last house so I thought I would see what new products have come along since back yonder.. I didn't buy any wood color stains this time for I still have plenty.. The only thing wood color was some oak for his feet. Wife wants a dark purple background and lighter purple frame.. I used about a 1/20 of an ounce or less from each bottle for this project. Yes there is much higher priced dyes and stains to do the same thing, or close to the same...so what ever turns on each other...please choose your medicine by yourself.. I did get three bottles that has glitter added but there is hardly any stain in the solution so I will not get anymore of that and if I want glitter I will use glitter only on top and in between clear coats if that is to be added over the stained colors...
  8. For our house remodel we found the windows are preprimed white over pine. They are still is great condition and no drafts or moisture so replacing them is not in the cards. We are going to be changeing the doors, door trim, base molding and shoe molding to be all stained oak. But the Windows we want to leave white. What do you guys think? I am a little aprehensive.
  9. For our house remodel we found the windows are preprimed white over pine. They are still is great condition and no drafts or moisture so replacing them is not in the cards. We are going to be changeing the doors, door trim, base molding and shoe molding to be all stained oak. But the Windows we want to leave white. What do you guys think? I am a little aprehensive.
  10. We have a house new to us and it has painted wood trim (pine) white that does not fit the character of the ranch house. I am replacing that trim with the following. Doors flutes, rosettes, and plinth blocks Windows flutes, rosettes, jamb, sill Baseboards , plain board 4 to 6" tall then quarter round on the floor and cove molding on the top. In your humble opinion should I invest in real wood mouldings (oak stained and dyed to highlight the grain) or MDF painted white. The investiment will be substantial and I need to know which this community would like to go for. IF natural more detail work to get everything tight and looking good. If mdf (cheaper than oak) and white trim can be flubbed with caulk.
  11. Best to invest in a good hard wood trim or mdf painted white?
  12. PeteM

    Acrylic dye

    I was looking to do some Christmas ornaments, and wanted a green color. I like dyes, so you can see the wood grain, but couldn't find any to suit. My sister (an artiste at crafting) suggested using acrylic paint and diluting it. Walmart sells about a billion different colors for about a buck each. Dilute the paint with about 25% water, and I got a really effective dye. Opens a whole new world.
  13. Artie


    Okay, so I’m building this manger for my brother (the saga is on the woodworking page), it’s being made with 3/8 Baltic Birch, and 3/4 x 1 1/8 Poplar. I’m planning on staining the exterior with Cherry gel stain, and a gel finish. I think the bare interior looks most manger like. Do I want to clear finish the interior for protective/sealing the wood reasons? Or is Baltic Birch stable enough that finishing the exterior, and not the interior, won’t affect the long term health of the manger? Any ideas, comments, tips, most welcome. Thank you Artie
  14. Al B

    minwax stains

    I went to HD yesterday and found that Minwax stains are no longer sold there. I drove up the street about 1/4 mile to the Pratt Lambert store and all they had was Quart or Gallon sizes. Not much help for my small project. Then went to Lowes, almost across the street, and they did have the smaller Minwax cans on the shelf, but, they had a very limited selection of colors in stock, none that worked for me. Does anyone know where a broader selection of colors might be easily found.
  15. skiler


    Need help identifying this wood and finish. It looks like pine to me but could be really knotty cherry. The finish almost looks orange. I am trying to build something to match it and not sure how to go about it. Any help greatly appreciated.
  16. Three things that affect the finished color of a project 1. The wood. You would not expect the same resulting color if you applied the same products to, say, pine, poplar, walnut, maple, cherry, or white oak. Each wood will impart not only its own natural color, but the grain and porosity of the wood can affect how it absorbs the upper layers. I have applied exactly the same stain to ash and red oak, that look very similar in the rough (ring porous woods) and on red oak it comes out a light brown and on ash, a light yellow. 2. The colorant. The dyes and/or pigments in a stain, glaze or toner will obviously impact the resulting color. And it may interact with the underlying wood. For example, if you add a raw umber color, normally a darkish green to a wood like cherry with a lot of natural red, they will neutralize each other and come up with more of a brown result. If you put raw umber on maple, you are going to see more of that greenish color. 3. The finish. All finishes can add (or omit) color. Waterborne finishes and lacquers called "water-white" add virtually no color. These are great if you don't want added color, for example over a pickled finish. On the other hand, they can look like the finish is washed out. Shellac comes in different grades from super blond, blonde, lemon, orange and garnet. Sometimes they are called light amber, amber, natural, or whatever just to confuse us. Varnishes (oil-based) generally have an amber color. Exactly what depends on the mix of which oil and which resin. Soy-alkyd, linseed-urethane, or tung-phenolic are the common combinations and vary from light to dark amber, respectively. So that is why when you are doing test boards on scrap, you need to use the same wood, the same colorant, and the same finish, all the way to completion. Also, the color you get on day one may not the color 10 years down the road. Woods tend to change color - cherry darkens, walnut lightens, and maple ambers. Dyes and pigments tend to fade in light, dyes usually more so. And if you have a colorant with two or more ingredients, one of them might change faster than the others. So an amber might fade to an orange. On one hand you have the woods going one way and perhaps the colorants going the other, each at their own rate.
  17. Started on this back in the summer and had it shelved til some other things got done. Son bought a new house in NC and Dil wanted shelves to match stair rail. So we went and found this mahogany 14 foot by20 inch by 2. Had to cut it to get into his suburban. Then I get the"privilege" to bring it home to work on. Took them til last month to decide on shelf brackets . Yes I am making those too. Ordered the stain that was used for existing Cabot mahonany flame in the old oil formula ( read the new is WB and not good). It is labeled outdoor use only, must be a CYOA. So got the stain on today and waiting for decision on clear. The second pic is prototype bracket.
  18. Gerald

    Stain on alder

    I am in Asheville , NC and my son wants shelves to match what looks like tigerwood. We know it is stained . Looking at maybe alder or red oak. I am familiar with oak but how dark of a stain will alder take (this looks like mahogany, maybe little lighter). And how easy will it be to get that dark color on it. Have not worked with alder before. Or is it better to just use the oak?
  19. Sorry havent been on in a while. Lifes been hectic. But made the most beautiful easiest project to date. Forgot before pic. Was bleached white and dry as a desert fom exp to sun for 5 yrs. Threw some sodona red on it and it sucked it up like an alcoholic that hasnt drank in days lol
  20. So - there I was - working on my web site to update the colors available on my Quarter Map frames (and other frames). Lately I have been using Varathane stains. The only reason for using Varathane over MinWax or other staining applications, is that the Varathane dries more quickly than others (in my shop). Going after color charts, I visited both Varathane and MinWax web sites. In reading about the two, I came up with completely opposite methods for applying the stain. At http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/varathane/premium-wood-stains, (Varathane), they say: " For Best Results - Stir thoroughly. On bare wood apply the stain across the grain until the wood is saturated on top. Wipe off the excess after 5-10 minutes." At http://www.minwax.com/woodworking-videos/new-featured/three-step-wood-finishing-process(MinWax) they say to apply the stain with the grain. Personally I have always gone with the grain. How about y'all, do you go WITH or ACROSS the grain when staining. I think we all agree that when wiping off excess we go with the grain.
  21. From the album: CHESTNUT

  22. markc1107

    End Table

    From the album: Pine Is Fine Custom Cabinets and Furniture

    The solid pine end table is done. We stained it Golden Oak and put a coat of satin polyurethane.
  23. From the album: Pine Is Fine Custom Cabinets and Furniture

    Here is the finished product for the Maple and Red Oak Toy Box. The client picked out an Early American stain, to give it that 18th/19th century look. You can also use this as a heirloom blanket chest.
  24. Awhile back, picked a Scioto works #8 coffin style smooth plane at an antique toy store.    Missing a bolt to hold the iron and chipbreaker together.   Missing the strike button on the backside.    So, Found a tap that was close to the size i needed to make a new thread in the chipbreaker.   Turned out to be a 10-1.5 Metric plug tap.    Ok, we have the matching bolts at work.    Brought one home that I found on the floor.   It came out of the shelving system they use.    Takes a 6mm allen wrench to loosen.   Ground the head down a bit, to almost flat.   And still leave a bit for the wrench to grab into.  Shorten the threaded part a bunch.   had to clear the wedge.    Sharpened the iron  back up, adjust the chip-breaker for a better fit.   Beltsander and sandpaper on a tile to sharpen the iron.   A look at the back side Soaked the wood body in a BLO/ Varnish/ Walnut stain mix.....about ten coats.    Wood was VERY dried out.   Markings on  the iron are from Ohio Tool Co.    Thistle Brand Made in USA Took a handplane to the sole for a tune up. nise was worn quite a bit.   Got the sole nice and flat, and gave it a coat Yep, there is a crack in the heel.    Right where the missing strike button USED to be.   Guess that is why it is AWOL.    Decided to make something to take it's place.    Didn't like the idea of a carriage bolt stuck up in there.   Didn't have a big enough bolt, so, a washer of sorts was made, and a smaller bolt added.    Filled the hole with glue, and tapped the parts in place Almost like a Lincoln's spare tire..... Got everything back together for a test drive The shaving is the full width of the pine scrap I was using.    Had it set a bit deep, though.     Not too bad for a $5 plane  
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