tony ennis

Oil paint is a pain, but you can't argue with the result. I bought a Home Depo (Ridgid) toolbox last year to discover it was nothing more than a huge cavern. With great hardware on it :-D I built tool trays to go inside it and painted them with oil paint. Very nice result.

How do I paint a floating panel without effectively gluing it to the frame? I've seen many such panels split by humidity. Is it nothing more than paint it, then score the paint with a knife?

Thanks folks. Unfortunately the Lie-Nielson saws are too rich for my blood. They are beautiful indeed. So looking at a Veritas carcass saw and Veritas micro-adjust marking gauge. Anyone have a promo code handy?

So, given the OT posts, is this thread done, and Lee Valley/Veritas is the answer for saws and marking gauges?

Ladies and Gents, I intend to spend time in the shop this summer. Time to tool up. I have a standard marking gauge, the kind with the spike on it. I don't like it much, it follows the grain. I see a lot of youtubers using a metal marking gauge with a rotary cutter on it. Who uses one of these, do you like it, and what brand do you recommend? Same question for saws. If I were buying a tenon saw or panel saw, what brands should I consider?

I have a doctorate in Analysis Paralysis Thank you!

I appreciate your responses. I am not sure yet. Probably something like 32" tall, 16" wide, and 10" deep.

Sitting the box on a 3/4" wide ledger strip screwed to the wall, and then screwing through the batons like you said, is my normal method. The ledger strip supports the weight and the screws just prevent the box from falling forward. But for the french cleat approach, nothing supports the box; the floating back panel is indeed connected to the french cleat, and now the box's weight is on the top of the back panel, right?

No, that's pretty clear. Sides and top will be dovetailed with the pins on the top and bottom of course. The cabinet will be something like 10"d x 16"w x 32"h. It will contain perhaps 6 iron planes and a few wooden ones. I was thinking of hanging it with a French cleat. Do you see any issues with the weight of the cabinet being supported by the top's dado, where the wood is the thinnest?

Just what the title says. My issues are: 1) I don’t know how to handle the expansion of the back, and 2) I want to hang the cabinet, so the back has to handle the weight of a bunch of iron planes. Plywood glued and screwed into a rabbit of course handles this with aplomb. But if I used solid wood, how would I build it?