Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Well, I thought I'd bring this thread back up. Weather is being nice, so I did some work on this instrument today. Hopefully warm weather will continue and I can keep this build up. It is now a build thread.

Goal for today was to thickness the headstock. I will be putting a spalted maple headplate on the front and probably just a plain maple one on the back, although that might change, because i have a bit more spalted maple left, just trying to decide if I want to use it for this.

So I put the neck blank in the vise and grab my trusty old friend.

 

hdstk1.png.c75e5f78937e1a386fb7937d3e1c9a9d.png

 

hdstk2.png.ad732f961fcfc16aa83c944ebbd592f7.png

 

Checking the intersection of headstock and neck blank for square.

 

hdstk3.png.231c2fca061099b19594b9d39d33b291.png

  • Like 3
Posted

Some pretty shavings Mike. Following along.

Posted
9 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Some pretty shavings Mike. Following along.

Thanks, Gramps!

Was great to be able to work on a guitar again.

 

  • Like 3
Posted

Looking forward to following along with the build.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thank you. I'm looking forward to completion of this build.

Posted

Likewise, great build topic. Keep it up and I admire anyone who can do the fine work of instrument building. Can't wait to see the final product! And how it sounds!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Time to rout the truss rod channel. This is a one way rod that will bend with a back bow when tightened, thus straightening the neck against the pull of the strings. This allows some adjustment over time and for preferred playing styles. They make two way rods that will adjust for back bow or forward bow, but I do not like them because they require a deeper slot, and I prefer a thinner neck profile.

 

trusslot1.thumb.png.afb13ebaa2a7368bd5aea5a4f5600a24.png

 

This is done in successive passes, taking about 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch at a time. The bit is only 3/16" diameter. It will snap if I take too big of a bite.

 

trusslot2.thumb.png.bcdd745428b2fba03d5157b190c3f58d.png

 

I test fit the rod until I get to depth. I want it to fit very snug.

 

trusslot4.thumb.png.992abec2673fea536aaf784daa140999.png

 

The adjustment end of the rod, which I put at the nut end of the neck, requires a 1/4" width, and a slightly deeper rout because of how the truss rod is made.

  • Like 3
Posted

This is routed in the same way, but you can't really see it happening. Sorry.

 

trusslot5.thumb.png.6d4fda5f950fde176509e89e6db181fa.png

 

Until it fits flush with the top of the neck blank.

 

trusslot6.thumb.png.588c8238b1df7385fc4753e9e881adec.png

  • Like 3
Posted

Now if you remember, I cut the neck blank to length, and had an "offcut".

I now place it on my bench hook, and start cutting the segments to create a stacked heel.

 

stack1.thumb.png.6a306df3e049094d32b6b4bd27dadceb.png

 

stack2.thumb.png.43c7bcc5483e034570371b19d77feda7.png

 

I use a stacked heel and a scarf joint for a couple of reasons. Firstly, it's easier to find a long 7/8" thick piece of hardwood than it is a 3" thick beam. And secondly, when a neck blank is cut out of a larger piece there is a lot of waste left behind.

I "rinse and repeat" the process and cut enough blocks to create a 4" deep heel.

 

stack6.thumb.png.6ac87cbd6958a124d63fdb59abcb735f.png

 

 

  • Like 3

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...