That is what I would call forward progress John!  Very happy to see you back in the shop, and getting your spirits lifted in the process.

1 hour ago, Cal said:

That is what I would call forward progress John!  Very happy to see you back in the shop, and getting your spirits lifted in the process.

Thank you Cal, forward most definitely.

@John Morris are you sure you are well? Anyone that happy doing sanding must have something wrong. Now the finish and sitting is right up my alley.

1 minute ago, Gerald said:

@John Morris are you sure you are well? Anyone that happy doing sanding must have something wrong. Now the finish and sitting is right up my alley.

Weller than before. Even sanding seems enjoyable! Taking nothing for granted anymore Gerald.

On 6/9/2019 at 9:26 PM, Gene Howe said:

A really nice essay.  Never thought of tanning a project but, you're right. It does make that curly pop. Thanks for the tip.

 

 

I made a "keeping box" for my wife's yarn a few years ago out of some air-dried cherry.   I put on a coat of BLO and put it on the patio during the day for a few days before finishing with shellac.   It got a nice tan and got about 10 years of patina in a week.

John, the shaker rocker is truly beautiful.  What glue do you use for your joints?

Danl 

1 hour ago, Danl said:

John, the shaker rocker is truly beautiful.  What glue do you use for your joints?

Danl 

Thanks so much Dan.

I used Titebond III for its longer open assembly time as compared to Titebond white. But I am switching glues to liquid hide glue, did a little research and with liquid hide there are a few advantages.

• You can repair the piece in the future, by heating up the joint and disassemble.
• It has a longer open time for assembly then even Titebond III
• It dries clear, if you miss some during clean up and you go to apply your clear finish, it is invisible.
• It does not bite during glue up, it slides, that may be frustrating in some cases, but specifically for chair making, when you have many parts that have to fit into other parts at the same time, sliding is a good thing, it acts as a lube.

I have been doing some investigation into Titebond Liquid Hide and few others, have not settled on one yet. Just two I have considered are:

 

Sold at Woodcraft and some big box stores:

Titebond - Liquid Hide Glue 8oz

WWW.WOODCRAFT.COM

---

Moderate set time (usually over one hour depending on temperature and moisture) permits unhurried assembly of...

 

And another one of my favorite haunts below:

Patrick Edward's Old Brown Glue

WWW.TOOLSFORWORKINGWOOD.COM

---

Patrick Edwards is one of the world's experts on marquetry and furniture restoration, so you know any glue that he makes is...

 

What kind of clean up is needed for Hide Glue?  As in on your hands, (hey I am sloppy sometimes)  or the work bench / floor / my clothes?

3 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

What kind of clean up is needed for Hide Glue?  As in on your hands, (hey I am sloppy sometimes)  or the work bench / floor / my clothes?

Gunny, from what I've read when the glue is fresh squeeze out you can wipe it up with cold water, if you have squeeze out you did not catch during assembly you can wipe it off with hot water supposedly, this is all kind of new to me too, so as I am learning so are we all.

 

 Never used it. Is it good for all sorts of stuff?. I have a buddy in Canada that uses the real stuff ya have to mix and heat, for his marquetry. He swears by it.

Edited July 14, 20196 yr by Gene Howe

1 hour ago, Gene Howe said:

 Never used it. Is it good for all sorts of stuff?. I have a buddy in Canada that uses the real stuff ya have to mix and heat, for his marquetry. He swears by it.

For marquetry I have read it's a must Gene, you can use the liquid as well. The liquid hide glue and pot glue is pretty much the same glue, but the glue that is brought out of the pot just takes a few times and experience to get the right dilution for the open time you desire. The open time can be from a couple minutes, basically undiluted, and several hours to infinite depending on how diluted. One of the wonderful things about liquid hide or pot glue from what I have read, is that they are reversible, you screw up, you just heat up the joint, or the veneer, and you can separate it.

 

I guess perhaps the attraction of the liquid hide, besides not having to invest in a glue pot, would be that it's a consistent mix, with consistent results. Someone like your highly talented marquetry man would not need to worry about that, cuz they got it down pretty good I would imagine.

 

I would imagine you can use it for anything you want (not exterior though), just keep in mind that it is a bit slippery, it acts a lubricant from what I read, so if you were trying to glue two boards together, face to face, that may be a bit crazy. Seems like the glue excels at joinery and marquetry.

Thanks, John. Guess I'll just stick with LePages stuff. 

10 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

LePages

What is that?

What's in hide glue?  I had this Colonel rip a lot of my hide off once for a stunt I pulled.  Any chance I can get some back in this form????

10 hours ago, John Morris said:

What is that?

It's plant based. Eco friendly. No animals harmed in it's manufacture. PETA, tree huggers and vegans endorse it. It's not known to cause cancer in California, either. 

On 7/12/2019 at 9:38 PM, John Morris said:

P.S. @Jim from Easy Wood Tools, I am wearing my EWT cap, symbolically, because I turned this chair using Easy Wood Tools, and it was EASY! I turned this chair with the Mid Sized Rougher, and Mid Sized Finisher. I can't say enough about Easy Wood Tools, Made in the USA, with USA Labor.

 

Thanks John!

On 7/14/2019 at 11:06 AM, John Morris said:

Thanks so much Dan.

I used Titebond III for its longer open assembly time as compared to Titebond white. But I am switching glues to liquid hide glue, did a little research and with liquid hide there are a few advantages.

• You can repair the piece in the future, by heating up the joint and disassemble.
• It has a longer open time for assembly then even Titebond III
• It dries clear, if you miss some during clean up and you go to apply your clear finish, it is invisible.
• It does not bite during glue up, it slides, that may be frustrating in some cases, but specifically for chair making, when you have many parts that have to fit into other parts at the same time, sliding is a good thing, it acts as a lube.

I have been doing some investigation into Titebond Liquid Hide and few others, have not settled on one yet. Just two I have considered are:

 

Sold at Woodcraft and some big box stores:

Titebond - Liquid Hide Glue 8oz

WWW.WOODCRAFT.COM

---

Moderate set time (usually over one hour depending on temperature and moisture) permits unhurried assembly of...

 

And another one of my favorite haunts below:

Patrick Edward's Old Brown Glue

WWW.TOOLSFORWORKINGWOOD.COM

---

Patrick Edwards is one of the world's experts on marquetry and furniture restoration, so you know any glue that he makes is...

 

An acquaintance luthier of mine has been using Cabinetmaker's glue from Lee Valley and another acquaintance  of mine who is a skillful woodworker has  switched to the Patrick Edward's old Brown glue you mentioned.  He told me that he puts his glue bottle in a warm tub of water prior to using the glue to allow the glue to soften more.   I have used the Cabinetmaker's glue and it does have a longer working time than Titebond III.   John, thanks for your input.  Danl 

 

Thanks, Dan. Gotta try some.

On 7/15/2019 at 5:43 AM, Gene Howe said:

It's plant based. Eco friendly. No animals harmed in it's manufacture. PETA, tree huggers and vegans endorse it. It's not known to cause cancer in California, either. 

 

I like it Gene. Hey, if it works, and good for mother earth, that's 100% as far as I'm concerned!

Works great to seal envelopes, stick any paper to any other paper. Or any paper product to a wood desk top. In first and second grade, we used paste. The edible kind. In third grade we got to use Le Pages. Also, edible. DAMHIK.