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PostalTom

First Shot at "Picking"

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Sweet finds Tom and yes, Habitat for Humanity Restore is a legitimate "pick stop.":P The saw is a newer model Disston probably from the 70's or 80's. That said it appears in pristine condition for its age.

Per "the bay" ya' did good on the price.

 

As for the brace, my knowledge / experience is limited there. Maybe @steven newman will stop by and offer some pointers. In the mean-time, I found these help aids. Good luck and keep us updated.

 

https://paulsellers.com/2014/12/questions-answered-on-brace-and-bits/

 

http://lumberjocks.com/Brit/blog/25308

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=210P4gIDfLc

 

 

 

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Thanks Dave.  That looks to be a wealth of information.  I guess I have my work fun cut out for me. 

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22 minutes ago, PostalTom said:

I guess I have my work fun cut out for me. 

Well Tom, upon further examination and by your statement, I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you now are exhibiting all of the classic symptoms of a tool hoarder, 'er collector. :rolleyes: Unfortunately there is no cure. With sporadic treatment (aka more picks) coupled with therapy outings (aka flea markets, yard/garage sales, antique & thrift and such) and proper supervision (aka an unsuspecting adult but I've found grand-children are better supervision), you can still function doing normal projects. From this day forward, your life will be different, but properly managed can be sustained.:lol:

 

Welcome to the dark side...always great to have another picker at the anonymous meetings. Your turn to bring donuts.:P

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Well, I finally got started cleaning up the saw, and I have a couple of questions.  First is about the medallions.  Is that how I estimate the age of the saw?  Since I have three medallions, is that normal?  Which one do I focus on to research that saw.  I couldn't find anything that listed the information printed or etched on the blade.  That brings me to my second question.  How do I clean up the blade and not take off the T1, Disston, etc?  I know, very carefully.  But seriously, is there something that will cut the rust and stains and leave the information intact?  On the other side, I had pretty good luck using WD40's version of penetrating oil, but that still took a lot of sanding and scrubbing.  Looking online, one person used vinegar, another used Barkeeper's Friend, but those still involved some abrasion of the blade.  I am in hopes of having the printing still there on a somewhat shiny blade.  Any suggestions? 

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Hey Tom, here is a great page for Disston medallions, I reference it frequently, specially for our wiki.

I don't typically send our guests out of our community for answers, but since I don't have a clear shot of your medallion, I figured this would be most helpful to you.

Please see here at:

http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/medv2.html

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4 hours ago, John Morris said:

I don't have a clear shot of your medallion,

Took some pics of the three medallions.  They aren't super clear, but it is the best I can do.

 

585037366_sawmedallion1.jpg.d9a6090d90b8813443038b32b38b3c4d.jpg  271897578_sawmedallion2.jpg.bf31ca5c63afbd406b3859a227b3cc7f.jpg

 

1200484873_sawmedallion3.jpg.14a0f8c5d307161c2c0e640d4dd2b81d.jpg

 

BTW, I had looked at the web site you mentioned, but the medallions listed all looked so much alike that I couldn't actually match up any of the medallions I have to what were in that list and narrow down my saw to a specific date range.  Hopefully your eyes are better than mine.

Edited by PostalTom

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Missed this question somehow...maybe our resident expert @steven newman can drop by to venture a guesstimate.

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 Two of the medallions on the left is vintage 1955 to 1990

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13 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

No guesstimate, more like where it was made, to include what month, year and day of the week.  The person who made it and the forest where the tree was cut that the handle was made from.

And also how many branches the tree had.

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13 hours ago, John Morris said:

Two of the medallions on the left is vintage 1955 to 1990

Thanks @John Morris.  I appreciate you taking the time to research that.  I had previously received an email regarding a post you had made that identified the saw as between 1940 and 1947.  Did you do some further research and remove that post?  Not a big deal, just wondering. 

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On ‎3‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 5:39 PM, PostalTom said:

That brings me to my second question.  How do I clean up the blade and not take off the T1, Disston, etc?  I know, very carefully.  But seriously, is there something that will cut the rust and stains and leave the information intact?  On the other side, I had pretty good luck using WD40's version of penetrating oil, but that still took a lot of sanding and scrubbing.  Looking online, one person used vinegar, another used Barkeeper's Friend, but those still involved some abrasion of the blade.  I am in hopes of having the printing still there on a somewhat shiny blade.  Any suggestions?

Did anyone have any suggestions on this?  I would really like to maintain the "branding" on that side of the plate, if possible.  I got a wire brush for my Dremel, so I will see how that does.

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9 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Maybe electrolysis?

Thanks Gene.  I hadn't even thought of that.  I am not familiar with how to do electrolysis.  I suppose I could Google it.  Would the electrolysis take off JUST the corrosion, or would it strip the printing also?

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1 hour ago, PostalTom said:

Would the electrolysis take off JUST the corrosion, or would it strip the printing also?

Tom, if the labeling is not etched and truly just painted, electrolysis will remove the paint. It could also damage an etch. For no worse than the rust appears in the picture, I'd start with WD-40 and a single edge razor blade where the rust is concentrated. Once you've removed as much rust as possible doing that, then try a green Scotch-brite pad scrubbing with WD-40. Take care around the labeling until you see how it will react with the Scrotch-brite scrub. Away from the etch/paint, WD-40 or just plain 'ole kerosene or diesel fuel and 000 steel wool works well too.

 

I've also used Evap-O-Rust. It will remove all traces of rust, yet not harm the paint or actual etch. Most big boxes carry Evap-O-Rust as do farm supply store like TSC, Farm & Fleet, Big R and Rural King. It's kinda' pricey per gallon, but re-usable and environment friendly. A less costly method but works similar, is White Vinegar. You'll have to buy a plastic tote preferable large enough so the plate will lay flat (handle removed). Those larger plastic storage containers that store under a bed work well. You only need enough solution to cover the plate, then put the lid on to minimize evaporation.

 

Thoroughly rinse and scrub with water (rather Evap-O-Rust or vinegar) after both sides are done, (maybe 12 hours total soak time???) wipe dry, then apply a good coat or two of paste wax (non-silicone base).

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Evap O Rust works well, have used many times to bring back some seriously rusted stuff.

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Dave, the labeling is painted or inked on.  I actually have most of the plate looking pretty good.  I have been using a combination of white and black pads, along with WD40 penetrating spray, not the regular WD40.  Also using 400 and 600 grit sandpaper.  My main concern is around the printing.  I've seen the Evap-O-Rust at our Harbor Freight store, (another good product from a fine company ;)).  I bought a B&D 7730 radial arm saw from a guy at work several years ago, for $75.00, with the intention of refurbing it and putting it to use, but for several reasons, never got around to it.  Buying some Evao-O-Rust for that project was on my list, so maybe it's time to get some.  Trying it out on the saw would be a good test of that product.  Thanks Dave, I appreciate the info.  With my truck and lathe both broke down, I can't do much of anything else, so this gives me a new direction to go.  

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