If I put the door on my work bench so that the hinges were right on the edge of the bench, and clamped the hinges tight to the bench, the far side of the door (the side where the knob is) raises up off the bench. I think it is just that the bottom hinge is not the same depth as the top one. My friend tried to force the door shut which is what caused the damage you can see on the door. I just don’t have the ability to express the problem properly in the written word. The plane of the hinge where it attaches to the cabinet is shy of the plane of the door? If the door was not damaged, I woulda just bought new hinges and rectified the situation.

I would not use a laminate to make a raised panel  the layers will telegraph through the paint like crazy.  A good clear pine  glue up would do the  job just fine

Artie, you said you want to match the existing door. Does your raised panel set match the existing panel? Not all panel bits have the same design. Do the doors overlay the cabinet ? If the doors overlay the cabinet and the hinges match, it's possible either the face frame or the door isn't flat. You did say the cabinet was low grade. 

Another issue in building new doors the mitered corners. A bit more work that could go wrong. I prefer the square corners  in the pdoto Dave posted.

2 minutes ago, Cliff said:

I would not use a laminate to make a raised panel  the layers will telegraph through the paint like crazy.  A good clear pine  glue up would do the  job just fine

rub the wood down w/ spackeling before sanding..

paint...

2 hours ago, Stick486 said:

spackeling before sanding..

paint...

how long ya think that'll last before the  laminations start wiggling?  I tried it with epoxy and it worked  - - for a while.

Why not make the panel out of MDF or Popular.

MDF bad on high humidity and HS router bits.

Popular good for both if prroperly sealed.

The popular paint up very well.  I used on external mouldings and would be my first choice.

To glue up a panel finish all to the same thickness that is 1/8 to 1/4 more than the final dimension.

Then glue it up with exterior glue (becuase of where it is going to be used) keeping the boards alligned.

Then joint and TP the glue up to the final thickness.

 

 

4 hours ago, HandyDan said:

Artie, those are flush hinges on the door you are showing and should be fine for that door.  Take the hinge off and lay it flat on the bench to be sure.  I have a feeling something else is going on with the cabinet itself.

 

 

I think Dan is right. Something else is going on with the door or cabinet.

I have never mortised those type of hinges on a cabinet door and have never had a problem with it shutting.

22 hours ago, Stick486 said:

@lew

It works really well...

if you need to hide the plys that will show rub them down w/ spackeling compound before sanding...

BB or AA/AB fir mega ply is your better bet for this..

low ply count and in a BC grade are an exercise in futility...

 

@Artie

mortise the hinges..

 

 

22 hours ago, Stick486 said:

@lew

It works really well...

if you need to hide the plys that will show rub them down w/ spackeling compound before sanding...

BB or AA/AB fir mega ply is your better bet for this..

low ply count and in a BC grade are an exercise in futility...

 

@Artie

mortise the hinges..

 

+1 what Stick said. I use Baltic Birch for many of my telescope projects because it really resists warping.

12 hours ago, Monkey Paws said:

r many of my telescope projects

Interesting telescope  you have on your page.  Do you buy the  curved mirrors or make your own?  How do you figure the lenses?   Ya know get the right lenses and get the spacing right?

18 hours ago, Artie said:

The plane of the hinge where it attaches to the cabinet is shy of the plane of the door? If the door was not damaged, I woulda just bought new hinges and rectified the situation.

My thoughts exactly.  Get a good level or some form of straight edge.  I suppose they are not on the same plane.  If that is the actual problem, then mortising the hinge to where it mounts to the cabinet is the answer.  

@Artie ...

you could dust lip the doors...

http://www.freudtools.com/products/product/99-002

3 hours ago, Cliff said:

Interesting telescope  you have on your page.  Do you buy the  curved mirrors or make your own?  How do you figure the lenses?   Ya know get the right lenses and get the spacing right?

I no longer make my own mirrors. Too time consuming. When I buy my mirrors I look for one with a focal length of f5 or f6 and then choose my mirror diameter. For the big telescope it has a 10" mirror but the actual diameter is 9.84". I multiply the mirror diameter by the focal number and this gives me the distance between the mirror and the eyepiece. So 9.84 X 5= 49.2" from the mirror to the eyepiece. If you have these numbers correct you can build a telescope and you are only limited by your imagination.

On 12/30/2018 at 4:15 PM, Artie said:

I really should make a complete set of cabinet, and medicine cabinet, for them. The ones they have are low grade, I mean low grade enough that I’m not worried about turning out a higher quality product. In the last 6 months I have replaced their electrical service, and done all the work necessary for them to get their home vinyl sided, so they feel guilty and won’t let me make this into a bigger project.

Artie, tell them you are doing this for fun and experience.

I agree with what @HandyDan and @LarryS has said.

When I look at the door, the damage actually appears to be more consistent with opening the door too far, not pushing it closed. 

It could have been a manufacturing flaw, the hinges do not look like they were mounted very carefully.

 

 

I think I would want to compare this cabinet to the medicine cabinet next to it to try and spot some other flaw.  I suspect that if you make a new door it may also have fitment issues.

 

Edited January 1, 20197 yr by Cal

6 minutes ago, Cal said:

the damage actually appears to be more consistent with opening the door too far, not pushing it closed. 

 

Good catch Cal.  The hinges may be bent now too.

The front has the same damage, now I’ve only seen it when it was already damaged. When I lay the door down on my bench top the large rectangular shaped backs of the hinges, that are mounted to the door are laying on top of the bench, in contact with the bench. The part of the hinge that would have 2 screws through it, and going into the cabinet, well the top one actually touches the bench, the bottom one doesn’t. As far as I can tell the bottom hinge is the problem. It SHOULD be physically in contact with the cabinet, when it is laying against the cabinet, but it isn’t. I’m gonna make a new door (the old one is obviously damaged) and get a new set of hinges, just gotta get similar style and color. I already have the 3/4 baltic birch, but maybe it’s time I tried to glue up a door panel. This will lead to plugging in the DeWalt planer and learning how to use it, for the first time.  I can’t say if the hinge was damaged when they bought it, or if they broke it, and I ain’t no experienced woodworker, but mechanically I can see the hinge doesn’t reach where it should  . 

So maybe it’s a slow news day. I listened to advice here, and just finished my first ever glue-up. I used Poplar (I have the 3/4 Baltic Birch for a back-up, if necessary), and I ran the Poplar through the jointer (Ofirst time ever using the jointer, I’m just knocking off a bunch of firsts). I used Titebond II glue. I can see why some people prefer a stand alone jointer. Getting that beast off the holder, getting it on and off the Shopsmith, and back on the stand was a real workout. Maybe tomorrow I’ll figger out how to use the planer for the first time. I didn’t use any glue on the locations of the three clamps, with them being wood, figgered that could have a bad ending. 

nice ...

but...

why no wax paper under the cauls???

did you remember to spline???

20 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

nice ...

but...

why no wax paper under the cauls???

did you remember to spline???

Wax paper? Nope didn’t think of it. I can see where that would protect the wooden bars from getting glued to the Poplar. Does it create a bigger mess on the Poplar? If it creates a bigger mess, is it irrelevant because the planer is gonna make it go away anyways? Spline? You mean like biscuits? (Unfortunately, I’m being serious, ain’t never dun this stuff, before). 

Kwool Artie...great to see you're expanding your horizons.

Stick's correct...buy a roll or two of plain 'ole wax paper for the shop...use that as your barrier between the wood clamps and the glue up. You can keep your cupcakes dust free until break time too.

Interesting cutter guard feature on the SS jointer; also a feather board...

Get new shop stools for Christmas? Those are snazzy...like 'em.

Edited January 6, 20197 yr by Grandpadave52