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Tenon Cutter (Hand Tool)

Featured Replies

3 minutes ago, John Morris said:

Quit trying to throw the kitchen sink in there will ya!

so you don't want a mention of scorps then...

but you did say you were trying stay a bit true to chair making tools...

 

note to self...

skip adze, bung augers, and sharp rocks too...

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  • you could ease/soften the shoulders and that would improve the aesthetics... these are the last chairs I did and they have fitted shoulders... all of the tenons are foxtail wedge and glued w

  • Veritas® Tenon Cutters - Lee Valley Tools - Woodworking Tools ... and if you think your brain hurts after viewing... look for Bosworths.. yur nose will bleed too,,, but they are sweet...

  • so you don't want a mention of scorps then... but you did say you were trying stay a bit true to chair making tools...   note to self... skip adze, bung augers, and sharp rocks too

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  • Author
30 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

so you don't want a mention of scorps then...

but you did say you were trying stay a bit true to chair making tools...

 

note to self...

skip adze, bung augers, and sharp rocks too...

Stick, see my before posts. The operative words are "a bit". The steel tapers you presented I just did not like. Simple as that.

Also these are Shaker post and rung chairs, no adzes are or ever were used, sharp rocks definitely not. Though I use a scorp for my sculpted rockers at the seats, there never was a need now or in the past to use one on a Shaker post and rung chairs as the seats and back are taped, rush, or splint. 

However, I did not disclose at the beginning of this topic that I am building Shaker chairs. So you wouldn't have known that. I apologize.

My only objection to your suggestion for the steel tapers, is I like to stay in the realm of using woodworking tools for wood only, when I can. 

All that being said, I may just abandon the whole idea since I think I may of hit my stride creating consistent Tenon's on the lathe as I turn the rungs. Much faster too.

Thanks Stick. But, I still am very interested in the wooden tenon tool or similar as originally posted above.

  • Author
2 hours ago, Stick486 said:

round spoke shave them...

 

You can't use a round spoke shave to cut chair rung Tenon's, the tool is too big.

Just be careful with the powered things.   A friend of mine bought a dowel maker when a local lumber mill closed up.   He and another buddy were using it one day and the other guy ended up losing part of a finger.   To add to the collection he now has seven and three three-quarter fingers.   We call him "Lucky"

adze... wood prep as in logs to lumber segment..

bung auger.. tapered holes hand drilled used on wooden wheel construction to make the sockets for the spokes to wheel rim (or felloe) and hub connections... also for the for the the dove and king bolts used in wagon/skid/toboggan/carriage manufacture..

for timber frame pegging.. the pegs were tapered w/ a spoke shave which made the pegs slightly irregular which insured a tighter better holding peg..

taper pegs ''draw/tighten'' up the joint....

clean tapered pegs pop/back right out as where the irregular ones put up and argument and often had to be drilled/bored out of their sockets w/ a larger dia bung auger...

and why not use on chair stretchers and major joint pegs.. saw this type of construction touring Dutch and German museums... the Romans used it (Italian Museums)...

sharp rocks... humor but I'm sure flint tools were used prior to bronze and steel tools...

dull stones are the original sandpaper...

 

bung auger/reamers...

 

58a8b729328f0_bungauger1.jpg.6f4a7db03c1e44fb2ddd91a2bc671f30.jpg58a8b72a5955c_bungauger2.jpg.213d07612a70adf8324ea8d0a6c765dc.jpg58a8b72b729a4_bungaugerreamer.jpg.d2c8f332c0a0a331b4bfb490bfbef98b.jpg58a8b7280d8d6_bungreamer.jpg.d90745be3a0ef76b669ca447dee94a49.jpg

1 hour ago, John Morris said:

You can't use a round spoke shave to cut chair rung Tenon's, the tool is too big.

 

there are a zillion sizes...

 

58a8b8a13d73f_spokeshave.jpg.e7322e87d0f6fe38cffe163e8e0a80b0.jpg

  • Author
15 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

 

there are a zillion sizes...

 

58a8b8a13d73f_spokeshave.jpg.e7322e87d0f6fe38cffe163e8e0a80b0.jpg

That's a nice tool Stick. Was looking at those last night. But for other reasons. I'll be sticking with a shouldered tenon for these chairs. Any spoke shave will not work. You're not going to be able to get up to the shoulder. Thus the reason why I am looking for a tenon cutter like the one in my original post. Thanks man.

  • Author
33 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

adze... wood prep as in logs to lumber segment..

bung auger.. tapered holes hand drilled used on wooden wheel construction to make the sockets for the spokes to wheel rim (or felloe) and hub connections... also for the for the the dove and king bolts used in wagon/skid/toboggan/carriage manufacture..

for timber frame pegging.. the pegs were tapered w/ a spoke shave which made the pegs slightly irregular which insured a tighter better holding peg..

taper pegs ''draw/tighten'' up the joint....

clean tapered pegs pop/back right out as where the irregular ones put up and argument and often had to be drilled/bored out of their sockets w/ a larger dia bung auger...

and why not use on chair stretchers and major joint pegs.. saw this type of construction touring Dutch and German museums... the Romans used it (Italian Museums)...

sharp rocks... humor but I'm sure flint tools were used prior to bronze and steel tools...

dull stones are the original sandpaper...

 

bung auger/reamers...

 

58a8b729328f0_bungauger1.jpg.6f4a7db03c1e44fb2ddd91a2bc671f30.jpg58a8b72a5955c_bungauger2.jpg.213d07612a70adf8324ea8d0a6c765dc.jpg58a8b72b729a4_bungaugerreamer.jpg.d2c8f332c0a0a331b4bfb490bfbef98b.jpg58a8b7280d8d6_bungreamer.jpg.d90745be3a0ef76b669ca447dee94a49.jpg

Stick, I appreciate your effort my friend, I really do. I know what I need and want. I just thought some one might know of a ready source for the tenon cutter I pictured in my original topic. Ellia sells his as pictured, but the 5/8" would be a custom make for him. I can make it myself, but I just wanted to throw it out there and perhaps get lucky that you good folks would know a source. 

Any further suggestions not related to my original topic are not worth your time. I'm not trying to solve a problem, or get a history lesson "smiley face" I'm just looking for a specific tool, is all. Thanks Stick.

you can taper w/ a spoke shave...

 

7 minutes ago, John Morris said:

I just thought some one might know of a ready source for the tenon cutter I pictured in my original topic

just trying for options... there are always more than one plan...

the hollow bung (cone) reamers w/ the offset handles or pass through handles cut the matching tapers internally...

think pencil sharpeners...

Edited by Stick486

  • Author
12 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

just trying for options... there are always more than one plan...

the hollow bung (cone) reamers w/ the offset handles or pass through handles cut the matching tapers internally...

think pencil sharpeners...

I appreciate that Stick, no options though, the tool I need is the one I want. I think what adds to the confusion is the type of tenon folks may think I am making, I am only interested at this point in the shouldered round tenon for chair rungs, I understand how everything you've presented works, I appreciate your explanations and descriptions, truly I do! I did mention earlier possibly going to a tapered tenon but I do not want too right now.

 

Here is what I am accomplishing at this point on my lathe, the shouldered round tenon.

Source: Unknown, but not my finger or work, but it's exactly what my rungs look like at the lathe. Now you know why the spoke shaves do not work for these type of tenons. While the shaves will work for creating the actual rung.

IMG_20170218_134929311.jpg

 

Nothing tapered. I am getting pretty efficient at this point creating them on the lathe, but with a tenon cutter like the one pictured in my original topic, would cut the tenons more consistently.

What it comes down too it, I just need to turn about 100 more chair rungs and I'll have the tenons down pat. I'll end up making my own as my searches have pulled up nothing either.

Thank again Stick, you're the best and I appreciate all your time with this!

32 minutes ago, John Morris said:

I am only interested at this point in the shouldered round tenon for chair rungs, I

 

now ya tell me....

I could have sworn you said you wanted tapered and not shouldered..

tapered stretcher..

tapered hole...

so that's where I stayed... plan ''B's'' and on up......

 

 

  • Author
Just now, Stick486 said:

 

now ya tell me....

I could have sworn you said you wanted tapered and not shouldered..

tapered stretcher..

tapered hole...

so that's where I stayed... plan ''B's'' and on up......

 

 

Like I said, I mentioned it, shouldn't of.

  • Author

Ya, looking back at my replies Stick it completely seems I'm favoring the taper. Sorry bout that :unsure:

3 minutes ago, John Morris said:

Like I said, I mentioned it, shouldn't of.

missed it...

2 hours ago, John Morris said:

Ya, looking back at my replies Stick it completely seems I'm favoring the taper. Sorry bout that :unsure:

 

no problem...

so use a 5/8'' plug cutter...

  • Author
1 hour ago, Stick486 said:

no problem...

so use a 5/8'' plug cutter...

:lol: Yer still trying eh Stick! No, I want the tool in my topic, this is getting funny now.:P

3 minutes ago, John Morris said:

:lol: Yer still trying eh Stick! No, I want the tool in my topic, this is getting funny now.:P

make the tool and use the plug cutter as the ''iron''...

I know you realize there is a readership to this thread....

there just may be something in here that another can use to meet their needs whether it be just functional, a short cut or old world...

  • Author

I'll be making my own cutter Stick, close to the one in the OT, done. Plenty of information here for readers for sure. You done good.

now for the plus side to the plug cutter as an iron...

accurate..

multiple cutters for a clean cut..

roundness..

lightly tapered tenon for a snug fit...

add a locking wedge and you really have something...

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