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Showing results for tags 'chair'.
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Hi Woodworker Friends, Here’s my latest project. I like to challenge myself, and this one did the trick. Again, I spent hours going down blind alleys but in the end came out pretty good. I had to leave a few problems because they would have required taking everything apart. They are mostly errors of 1/16 inch and don’t show. Next time, if there is a next time, I could cut my time in half. But also, now I’ve figured out some techniques that could be used on other projects. By the way, does anyone know what this kind of chair is called? I just came up with Padded Chair, but I’m sure there’s a more accurate term. I’ll be interested in your feedback as to how you would actually build this. Thanks, Dan
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Hi Everybody, Here's my latest Sketchup model, an Adirondack Chair, with a little streamlining. I looked at a lot of pictures of the chair and I think this design is unique. Also, there are many ways to use color. I'm showing three. This model turned out to be harder than I thought and I spent hours working on little problems until the lightbulb came on, and I saw a much easier way to do it. What do you think? Dan
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Hi, i'm an amateur interested in restoring my grandpa's chair (see attachments which i've cleaned with 50/50 vinegar/water). I wish to restore it to its original look (sorta like the lacquer of the early 20th century) - because parts of it became weather-beaten, bleached, and stained. I'd like to aim for a Matte look along with minimally-protective finishing. I plan to strip it, but that may cause the wood to become lighter than it used to be originally. So here's my questions: After stripping (for which i hope to use 32-oz QCS spray-then-hose), would you sand or condition (and what Grit or conditioner, hopefully easy & non-toxic)? Should i apply Dark Walnut stain prior to applying vinyl & lacquer - or would vinyl & lacquer be sufficient to darken it to its original look? For health concerns, if stain is advisable, which one would you advise that's EZ & least-toxic? Which vinyl & lacquer are EZ and least toxic (Or is there any least-toxic polyurethane that would not require sanding and sealing? Such as this lady once did: https://designsbystudioc.com/restore-refinish-oak-desk-chair BTW, is the industrial Mohawk very toxic? At minimum, how many ounces (and coats) of each finish would offer passable coverage? I don't seek more than passable. How long to wait between coats? As for protective gear, I do have gloves & onion goggles, but are there any protective face masks that won't squeeze my cheeks due to TMJ-D? In summation, I prefer the simplest, least-toxic and most budget-friendly route I can get away with. If itemized answers are omitted i'll be floundering, because how would an amateur like me know what to order and how to proceed? Thanks!
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Hi guys ! I built a chair and a desk inspired by pierre jeanneret and Detjer with the Chandigarh series. it's a lot of work, i truly loved it ! What do you think about it ? What advice can you give me to get better ? I also made a tiny video if you are curious, thanks https://www.instagram.com/p/C5dv8k2Sy6q/ Paul
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From the album: My Projects
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From the album: My Projects
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From the album: My Projects
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From the album: My Projects
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From the album: Dane Franco
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A friend of mine called me up and asked me if I could repair one of his Windsor chairs, and if I could come over and take a look. So to my surprise, it was the same chair I have always gravitated too whenever I am in his home. His home is one of those homes, where everything is beautiful, in an old way. He has an old fireplace area with 18th century cooking implements around it, he has several hand tool chests full of 18th century tools that are all matched and numbered from the previous 18th century owner, and if he has any late era furnishings, they are all hand made, such as this chair by maker Steven Bunn. His home is one big 18th century fantasy land full of furnishings and tools and collectibles and all sorts of things, I love visiting him. To make things a tad confusing, the maker of this chair is Steven Thomas Bunn, ok, and my friends name is Steven Bunn as well! Small world right! The chair that I love the most in his home, is now in my shop, for repairs. It's been a long time since I did any real work in my lil ol shop space in my garage, and today is nice and cool, the heat is gone, and Fall is in the air, and I really enjoyed just being out there and tooling around, and dreaming of getting my shop back in order to start making "things" like this chair, I have always wanted to build Windsor's by hand, second best thing I guess is repairing them. Let me preface this with, my repair is not the proper way to repair these chairs. My repair is close, in the sense that I used a method of repair that was used in the 18th and 19th centuries to steady loose legs, but what is not correct is that I used this method on a Windsor, whereas the proper method would have been to disassemble the rung from the legs, and the legs from the seat, re-cut a wedge tenon at the top of the round tenons that are flush with the top of the seat, using natural hide glue for the re-seating of the legs, and drive a wedge into the top of the round tenon. But to do that, would mean refinishing a portion of the top of the chair, and I cannot do that, I am not skilled enough to match this finish. The original maker used traditional milk paints, and he layered colors, and stressed the paint to make the chair look as if it has been in use for 200 years. Perhaps our pro finisher @kmealy would have been able to match the existing colors, but not me. So I chose the less invasive method, drilling one hole through each legs round tenon up through the seat and driving a dowel up into the hole. The main issue was, when you sat in the chair, the seat would rest below the top of of the round tenon, causing the round tenon to protrude past the surface of the seat. There is one major issue at play here, the chair was made in Maine, it came out here to the very dry west inland desert area, and it did what wood does, some things shrunk, and the tenons got a tad smaller than they were. It's normal, it's the nature of hand made wooden things made the traditional way. You can see the top of the tenons here. When I took this picture I already fixed the front legs, so the tenons are flush with the seat surface. They used to protrude an 8th of an inch and they were loose. You can see the paint surface broke with the tenons rising up. My repair, drill a hole angled up through the tenon and into the bottom of the seat and glued. All four are done now, I'll cut the dowels back flush, and touch up with a little burnt umber paint, just a few little Q-tip dabs should do it. If you zoom in, you'll see the makers signature, I have seen his work on his website and he does some beautiful work, definitely work I'd love to aspire too. I'll come back with images of the final repair. For now though, you can Steven Thomas Bunn's work at:
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Interesting post by Paul Sellers, cut and paste here for those that don't do YouTube Seems like IKEA before IKEA Michael Thonet gave us the first mass-produced piece of furniture in his No 14 Bistro chair. He first announced it as a production model in 1859 and 50 million were sold between then and 1930. In terms of weight-to-strength ratio, this chair has known no equal. Its weight is about half that of 95% of any other chair and it's this that makes the chair so iconic as 'the cafe' chair. So I sit on my Thonet in Blackwell's bookshop here in Oxford now to write knowing that not a single woodworking joint was used and that the designer relied on minimising the need of any kind of skilled work staff. The parts simply bolt and screw together and a single chair is made in under ten minutes of human labour time. Some designs are worth celebrating. This is the one I would choose as the ultimate mass-made chair design and, yes, I find it to be a wonderful work chair. I can lean back in it, sit forward, scoot it, rock on it and even stand on it if I want to. The greatest savings in the chair were in warehouse storage and distribution as they could be sent out unassembled and required only ten screws and two nuts and bolts to be installed by unskilled staff. This is not the #14 type but the #14 is still being made today by Grebruder Thonet in Vienna. Thonet originally had his factory in a part of what was Austria and is now known as Moravia.
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Over a 49˚ rainy weekend visit to a Fine Craft Fair I reacquainted myself with a carver first met decades ago. At that time, I *think* I was looking for large timber. Interesting fella. Could not place when we met but his daughter had been a mature-looking minor, that I remembered She is now "45 or 50". So I was at his place in the mid-late 1990s. Wow! And Tom is now 79 years old. His place is hard to find. The city tore down most area homes and businesses and moved streets in the 1960s with a redevelopment plan which came to a complete stop. Possibly the southwestern-most residential street in the city. He lives and works at the home his great-grandfather bought in 1880. Tom is known as The Rocking Chair Guy but I watched as a Peruvian-born Canadian admired and bought a simple and elegant wall piece of African wood. I sat, with his urging, with my bag of wood samples and small magnesium bronze plane, making shavings for identifications, and heard more of his story. One of my first questions was, "Where did you learn to sharpen your tools?". 1960s, from a master carver in Ecuador ..
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View File Workbench Magazine July-August 1968 Combination Camp Chair and Tackle Box This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Submitter John Morris Submitted 05/14/2023 Category Yard and Outdoors -
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This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. -
From the album: Walnut Rocking Chair
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So my daughter has several chairs to repair. I've done this before, so most of the joints have no mystery. However the seat frame has these clever rib tenons that aren't going to come easy (on the non-broken side). My current thought is to just cut the corner brace with my vibro-multitool, fill in the grooves with glue and inserts, maybe add a 1/8~1/4 plate over the inserts, then just use a metal corner bracket. Any suggestions? And if you say "rotate it 180, shame on you!!! :-)
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View File Workbench Magazine January-February Early American Rocking Chair This handsome Boston rocker is an ideal project for the lathe enthusiast, requiring many hours to turn the various spindles, legs and stretchers. A hard, dense wood such as birch or maple should be used for the rocker, as the strains induced by the rocking require strong wood and tight construction. Start construction by making the saddle seat, edge-gluing stock 1" thick, also using dowels to reinforce the joints. Locate the dowels near the lower surface ofthe glued-up plank, so they will not be exposed when you cut into the plank to create the seat depression. Source:Workbench Magazine Jan-Feb 1968 Submitter John Morris Submitted 11/12/2022 Category Furnishings
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Ol knuckle head sanding on a New Lebanon Shaker Rocking Chair. I built this chair from Curly Maple, it turned out very nice.- 5 comments
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From the album: Walnut Rocking Chair
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Back view, showing the armrests, and the slats for the back. Back rung is a store-bought 7/8" dowel. Finish is two coats of Witch's Brew ( Pumpkin Pine?). The "bench" in the background is my Saw Bench, now over 2 years old.- 7 comments
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From the album: Walnut Rocking Chair
Before the finish is applied the chair is sanded to 800 then buffed to 1200 Abralon. The chair is already shining before the first finish goes on. -
I'm rebuilding a chair. The joints are M/T, with tenon bolts (inserted in parallel with the tenon) secured to a threaded insert. To the right of the end of the board, you can see a hole into which a pin has been driven. The threaded bolt (1/4-20) cinches up about 1/4" short of the pin. The pin does not act as a stop for the bolt, nor does the pin pass through the M/T joint as a dowel might. What is the reason for the pin?
