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Found 56 results

  1. Ol Buck

    Another Chair ?

    STILL WAITIN ON THIS LEG TO GIT WELL. THOUGH OF THIS. TELL ME WHAT WILL BE RONG WITH IT. YEAW, AT'S RIGHT, I DON'T KNOW PROPER DESCRIPTIVE NAME FOR back leg & back rest?? FOLLOWING WILL BE CUT W/ BAN SAW. CUT OUT FRONT LEGS FROM 2X? " " ARM REST USING 1X MORTISED INTO BACK ??LEG? " " BACK LEG/BACK REST USING 2x8 FOR THE CURVE, hope I can get both sides from 1 2x8, doubt it. BORE HOLES FOR DOWELS THRU SIDE OF SEAT " " 2& 1/4"OR 1/2". ALL DOWELS WILL BE HORIZONTAL INCLUDING FOR THE SEAT. MAYBE 1" DOWELS FOR SEAT. 3/4" FOR BACK. AINT DECIDED BOUT ROCKER ER NOT. STREACHERS = 5/8" FOR/TO LOOK BALANCED Anywho maybe yall kin git an idea.
  2. Courtland

    Walnut Rocker Front View

    From the album: Walnut Rocking Chair

    The seat is really fun to shape in these rockers, you get to make a ton of sawdust!
  3. Dadio

    Rocking Chair

    P-Toad on Good Monday Morning Patriot Woodworkers! February 5th, 2018 showed a rocker he wes repairing for his MIL, which reminded me of one I did for a close friend of the family a couple of years ago. It wasn't in as good of shape and and she wanted to strip off all of the upholstery and paint it. It had the upright spindles broken so I made a new back and wooden seat. Also replaced the springs. Here are the before and after pictures.
  4. John Morris

    Shaker Workshops

  5. Dane Franco

    Walnut Chair Joinery

    From the album: Dane Franco

  6. Dane Franco

    Walnut Chair Plans

    From the album: Dane Franco

  7. Dane Franco

    Walnut Chair Joinery 2

    From the album: Dane Franco

  8. Dane Franco

    Walnut Chair Joinery 1

    From the album: Dane Franco

  9. Don't think I've posted these here, but ran across the photo doing some searching and clean up. These were made from mostly re-cycled cedar (legs were from Restore, slats from old rough-sawn siding). They come apart and the seat slides into the back making a compact and easy to carry package. I keep them in the camper for outdoor seating.
  10. Ron has a good idea about the lathe and the person using it.. Comfortable to use so a person don't get wore out before he gets started using it. When I bought the new 788 in 99 I decided who ever built the stand that came with the scroll saw was about half off his rocker....So I went to thinking ....and here is what I use to keep me in the shop, longer, and with not as much aches and pains. I built a table to sit the saw on that is 19 1/2" tall. The saw is not bolted to the table, it will slide around as it sits on pieces of a truck tire inter tube... making it quieter, not a clue!! Sometimes I am sawing long pieces of wood and the saw needs to be turned one way or the other to accept the area where the sawing is fixin to take place.. I sit on an office chair with good swivel casters so I can go back and forth to the work top area a few feet away from the saw....Another good thing, which makes me follow the saw line better, I am mostly looking down on the piece to be sawn. Better results on saw-man-ship, not a clue again, but after building this set up , I got better at scroll sawing?? Most of the time these 788's don't bounce around much so maybe the inter tube is helping there?? This scroll sawing turned out to be the most comfortable tool useage of anything I do in my shop.. After I get a pattern attached to the wood then head toward to scroll saw, I let out a loud hurray or is it hurraw for the next few hours will be sitting down to where I can relax and make saw dust! And don't forget to turn on that box fan with the filter attached over there to the left of the operator! It took years to get my shop set up so tripping over objects in the floor would be a priority. I did leave room so I could get to the commode and the sink after I finally locate where they are! Does anyone have any good ideas to keep lumber stored thats not being used from day to day? The 12" Powermatic # 72 table saw catches all the overflow for all it is used for is cross cutting so it gets all the extra crap.... The sled on it is a permanent fixture for it measures 34x48" and is too important to stand up somewhere and get knocked out of whack. Yes I do take care of some of the small long pieces but sometimes I forget they are up there out of the way. And this fixture keeps some clamps close to the work table which is over the end of the table saw I call my work table. Its on a swivel so the clamps are easy to get to. I didn't say easy to squeeze, which they ain't!! A small metal strap bending tool is a good tool for making brackets for storing wood on the ceiling.. Oh, the drill press has a magnet to hold the chuck key but it serves another very important service for the light next to the magnet is too heavy with the extra large bulb making it too heavy to stay up in the air so the magnet holds the light over the work area also to even for. Its on a swivel so the clamps are easy to get to. And did I say not easy to squeeze? I decided getting up in age I need everything out in plain sight so I won't have all those drawers to look through. So I have lots of turn tables with lots of holes to display lots of small items. And I do think it has helped save wasted time..... Lots of experimenting went in to the 60 and 100 watt led bulbs in my shop and my house. I even had my wife take pictures of the receipts and the expected years these bulbs are supposed to last!!!!! I can just see the clerks asking are you sure those led bulbs were the 9 year, or the 18 year or the 22 year warrenty models or what???? We had just now finished installing all those curly cue light bulbs in all the shops and garages and houses receptacles and are now returned to the boxes the led's came in, with no where to go with them!! HO HO.
  11. Ron Dudelston

    Bibliochaise AKA Bookshelf Chair

    I have been drafted - ahem requested- by my niece to build one of these for her son. I can find a couple of vague videos of a build but no dimensions. Anyone have one of these plans laying around?
  12. steven newman

    Another " not mine"

    While having to clear the "card" of a camera we bought at a yard sale a while back....they had forgot to delete 135+ pictures of a trip to Tybee Island....took a LONG time to clear them all off. All except one.... Apparently, the was a house full of older furniture. This MIGHT have had casters under them feet. So...who is going to make this one? Again, I don't carve....maybe Morris could whip one of these out....
  13. John Morris

    Shaping the Arm Tenon

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    After I cut the tenons out, I took them from square to round in just few minutes, testing the fit as I went.
  14. John Morris

    Shaker Rocking Chair

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    Once I weave the seat into the chair, it will be striking, I am very happy with this project.
  15. John Morris

    Shaping the Arm Narrow

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    After I was satisfied with the tenon fit, I shaped more of the arm at the tenon area.
  16. John Morris

    Cutting the Tenon in Arm

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I rotated the arm and cut the other side (shoulders I guess you could say, but since it's a round tenon, what is it really?)
  17. John Morris

    Cutting the Arm Tenon

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I used this beautiful E. Garlick and Son "Lynx Brand" tenon cross cut saw to slice down the tenon to width. At 20 TPI, the cut is very fine. I purchased this saw a year ago on a whim and I am now starting to use it for many things. It's a joy to use.
  18. John Morris

    Laying Out Arm Tenon

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The tenons for the arms had to be layed out and cut by hand. Since the arms are irregular in shape, the lathe could not be used to shape the tenons as I have done with all the tenons in this chair. I laid out the 5/8" tenon a tad wide to accommodate any error in my making of the tenon, I'd rather shave down, than try to make it back up.
  19. John Morris

    Dry Fit Rocker Part Side View

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The side view looks just as good as the front view, I am happy with the results thus far.
  20. John Morris

    Side Chair Rung Mortises

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    All the mortises are bored in the proper locations for the side rungs, we are ready to assemble the main chair frame.
  21. John Morris

    Boring Side Rungs

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I put the front ladder up on the side rung mortising jig to bore out the mortises for the chair rungs. The jig is angled to accommodate the splayed seat configuration.
  22. John Morris

    Back Slat Mortise

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The mortises turned out really nice, I just took my time, sat down at the bench and diligently approached each mortise, sometimes I'd catch myself getting a bit too fast chopping these out, that's when I make mistakes. So I pulled myself back and slowed down, and they actually turned out very nice.
  23. John Morris

    Shaker Chair Arms

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The arm's are shaped and ready for final sanding. After rough shaping the arms with the draw knife and spoke shave, I used a block of wood wrapped in 80 grit sand paper and refined the arms.
  24. John Morris

    Back Slate Mortise Test Fit

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    As I chopped the mortises, I kept testing the fit, I had to chop out the mortises at an angle, so they other side of the bent slat, would meet into the opposite chair post.
  25. John Morris

    Back Slat Mortises

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    Laying out the mortises for the back slats of our chair. I scribed the layout lines with a razor knife before I started chopping the mortises. By scribing the lines first, I ended up with a nice crisp and clean mortise line. The lower slat had to have 3/4" deep mortises, and the mortises progressed more shallow to the top and 4th slat at 1/2" deep.

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