Popular Post steven newman Posted March 5 Author Popular Post Report Posted March 5 Lets see IF I can load more than 4 photos tonight...last time, had a bit of trouble.... So, clamps came off today..glue joints needed cleaned off.. Stanley No. 3, Type 15... Hi-Tech Tool...needed to mark a radius on each corner. so... Tried the Sabre Saw to make this cut...blade was too dull from the last time ( I need to go and buy new ones, anyway) so...I did it the way Norm Abram did.. Got the top at this end done... Then flipped it over..to both clean up the underside's glue joints, and cut the other 2 corners.. Needed the underside, anyway...as I needed to lay out where the legs will be going... And, where the tenons will be going...marked out 3 out of the four corners this way...so I could find out how long to make the 2 pairs of aprons...2 longs ,and 2 shorts... So I could cross cut a couple slabs... And, rip them for width...one end was a bit tapered...reset to THAT smaller end, and run all these through, again Needed to clear off the bench, next... Needed this space for a jig...first step, was to joint the edge of a long apron,,was a wee bit rough, we have ways.. WW2 Stanley No.6c...then set up a jig..with the part overhanging the edge of the bench by about a 1/4" or so... That way, the #45's fence won't be rubbing along the side of the bench..and throwing things off a bit ( finally found that wax candle..) Then repeat for the other long apron.. Short ones are about 6" shorter, had to reset that jig a bit.. Right about here...toes went to "Cramp up" Mode...area between the shoulder blades was getting there, as well...decided to place the load of Laundry over into the Dryer, sweep things up a bit, and head back upstairs....I guess 75 minutes of shoptime was a bit much, today? Photo #6...took 2 tries to get it to post (Error code 200????) Maybe tomorrow, I can bead the other 2 aprons, then mill a 3/4" long tenon on each end. Then start the lay outs for the mortises into the legs? Stay tuned.. Bubba, 4DThinker, Gerald and 5 others 7 1 Quote
Popular Post Zack Posted March 5 Popular Post Report Posted March 5 Every time I see the box for your #45 a little streak of jealousy shoots through my heart. Grandpadave52, lew, DuckSoup and 3 others 6 Quote
Popular Post Grandpadave52 Posted March 5 Popular Post Report Posted March 5 You do realize today is ONLY March 4 don't you? Take a break and enjoy a couple of donuts. Actually, that sounds like a really good idea. Gerald, Bubba, DuckSoup and 3 others 6 Quote
Popular Post steven newman Posted March 6 Author Popular Post Report Posted March 6 Beads are done did.. Needed to change out tablesaw blades, from this.. Tis a bit too rough as a cross cut blade...to.. A 60 tooth version...Had to remove the throat plate.. because there is not a whole lot of room...for my fat hands to work in.. And, you need two wrenches... Just to get these 2 parts and the blade out Then get the new blade in place add the cleaned up washer and nut.. One little tip: Run the blade up to full height. And when done, take a square and check that the blade is now 90 degrees to the table's top...then set the blade height for.. As I have 8 tenons to mill...also need the rip fence and the miter gauge.. And do a bit of "Nibbles" with the last nibble when the end of the board hits the fence...so.. Set to match the width of the chisel.... Stay tuned,,, Larry Buskirk, lew, Grandpadave52 and 3 others 6 Quote
Popular Post steven newman Posted March 6 Author Popular Post Report Posted March 6 (edited) For the one who like the boxes of my Stanley 45s There are 2 such items in the shop.. One for the Type 4... And the one for the Type 20.. I keep the type 4's spurs engaged, for dado work..the type 20 can't use any...hole for the bolt was wallered out too much... Had another Stanley Tool Box set out, today.. A No. 77? I used one of these today...to lay out mortises with, and a few other tools to chop them with... Spent a while in the shop, today..chopping and fitting ... Had 8 mortises to get finished up, and dry fitted ... Had to "pull the diagonals", as well.. I did set 1 dry fit on the Table's top... This is one of the short aprons...was checking that it hit the marks Hardest part was keeping track of where each Mortise was supposed to be, as they are NOT centered in the leg.. Have to mill 4 corner braces next time in the shop....haven't decided on dovetails or counter sunk screws to connect the braces to the insides of the aprons...braces help keep things square, and allow a slotted hole for a screw to attach the top with... Stay tuned.. Edited March 6 by steven newman Harry Brink, Zack, DuckSoup and 5 others 8 Quote
DuckSoup Posted March 7 Report Posted March 7 Nice job on the grain selection for the top, with some stain that should look great. Larry Buskirk, steven newman, lew and 1 other 3 1 Quote
Popular Post Zack Posted March 7 Popular Post Report Posted March 7 I must be seeing things? I thought I saw 2 45’s with boxes. I must have had too much bourbon. DuckSoup, lew, Larry Buskirk and 4 others 7 Quote
Popular Post steven newman Posted March 8 Author Popular Post Report Posted March 8 Afraid there are 2 Stanley 45s in my shop.. Blood draw today....Friendly Vampire. Feeling about a quart low? Unable to use the Millers Falls Langdon #72c...so, these were bandsawn...these will get glued up, just NOT to each other... And, not just glue will be involved... a pair of countersunk screws, AND the glue... These are called Corner Braces.. What will happen in the morning..I glue the legs and aprons together, and then work around those clamps and install... 1 into each corner... But, I will need a good night's sleep BEFORE that can happen...Cussing level? Day 0, Recruit Reception Center... Larry Buskirk, DuckSoup, Grandpadave52 and 4 others 7 Quote
Popular Post steven newman Posted March 8 Author Popular Post Report Posted March 8 Glue-up has been done...Cussing was involved....and a hammer, and a hammer drill... Film in a little bit..once I get it edited for Polite Company... Stay tuned.. Gerald, Grandpadave52, lew and 4 others 1 6 Quote
Popular Post steven newman Posted March 8 Author Popular Post Report Posted March 8 "The Calm before the Storm" Note the clamps were removed and hung where I can grab them...only friction is holding is hold this thing together..soon to change...took this apart, before it fell apart...chose that far end to glue up first.. One clamp down..a few to go..repeated for the other End assembly....then the back apron, and finally the front one....Hammer was used a few times....then once the diagonals were pulled again..at 28-1/4" each way... Extra clamp because a screw had split an edge of that apron...Hammer drill does not care, anyway... Sat this up out of the way...noticed one leg was sticking out a bit..causing a small gap...we have ways... Mark 2 MOD 4 eyeballs to guide things along...Gap closed right up, too... Let this sit a day...then clean things up..and see about attaching the top to the base...have to drill 4 slotted holes, first.. Stay tuned.. Fred W. Hargis Jr, Grandpadave52, lew and 4 others 7 Quote
Popular Post steven newman Posted March 9 Author Popular Post Report Posted March 9 (edited) Clamps came off this morning..set the base back down on it's own 4 feet...we have work to do... Used a square to mark layout lines...then chucked a 3/16" drill bit into the drill.. Roughly center along the line...drill straight down...then..rock the drill fore & aft, up and down...until.. 2nd try to load this 3rd picture, then I had to hit edit to continue? S.o.s.o? Do all 4 slots, then set the base back up onto the underside of the table's top trying to hit those layout marks.... 1-5/8" screw and a washer...just snug, for now...check to makes sure nothing poked through the top of the Top..check for gaps... Then snug these down a bit further...until the gap closes...then.. Move to tablesaw back out of the way..and set this down on it's own 4 feet... Still to decide...? Is which profile to use around the top edge of the Top of the Table...hmmm Stay tuned.. Edited March 9 by steven newman Photo uploading BS, again Larry Buskirk, Harry Brink, Fred W. Hargis Jr and 4 others 7 Quote
Popular Post DuckSoup Posted March 9 Popular Post Report Posted March 9 IMHO, I think to match the legs an ogee profile would work. Larry Buskirk, Gerald, lew and 3 others 5 1 Quote
Popular Post Gerald Posted March 10 Popular Post Report Posted March 10 I like the roman ogee for tops and drawer edges. Fred W. Hargis Jr, lew, Zack and 4 others 6 1 Quote
Popular Post lew Posted March 10 Popular Post Report Posted March 10 I’ve done the ogee both ways. Not sure which I like best Table looks really nice. Fred W. Hargis Jr, Larry Buskirk, DuckSoup and 2 others 4 1 Quote
Popular Post steven newman Posted March 11 Author Popular Post Report Posted March 11 Ok..means I need to set up the router for a little bit of work.. Allen Wrench tool is how I fine tune the depth setting... Need a way to hold the table still, so I am not chasing it across the shop's floor,,,so.. That should do the trick...once around the block? Unplug the router, wrap it's cord around it, and put it away...took longer to get set up, then the actual work... Next up, since the tap top did need a little fine sanding.. Would involve these things...I stopped at 220, as the top seemed almost glass smooth..mix the Witch's Brew up a bit.. Brush on, wipe off..let dry overnight...will see IF it needs a second coat... Laundry Detail today...2nd load was mostly bath towels...saved one back...it will go on top of the tablesaw, then I will set this table upside down and onto that towel...and work on the base of the table.. Stay tuned.. Fred W. Hargis Jr, Gerald, Grandpadave52 and 4 others 7 Quote
Popular Post Grandpadave52 Posted March 11 Popular Post Report Posted March 11 Looking good Bandit. Very clean looking lines. steven newman, lew, Fred W. Hargis Jr and 2 others 4 1 Quote
Popular Post steven newman Posted March 12 Author Popular Post Report Posted March 12 Today..needed to sand and scrape the undersides..so..start here.. Tablesaw is bass-ackwards, because.. Laid a towel down..to protect the table from any scratches from the top of the Tablesaw...then..2..6..HEAVE! And "hook" the table's top over the edge of the tablesaw...No. 80 Cabinet scraper where I could..220 grit sandpaper elsewhere...rotate.. Work on the ends, rotate until all are done...then, one more "rotation" up on to the table's top...open the can of Witch's Brew..and a wide brush..brush on-wipe off, until.. After a final wipe down to catch any drips, or runs...will let this sit a day..while I go out and buy a varnish brush or 2.. Stay tuned.. Grandpadave52, Larry Buskirk, DuckSoup and 3 others 6 Quote
Popular Post 4DThinker Posted March 12 Popular Post Report Posted March 12 My March project is to come up with a use for the 3/8" diameter rare earth magnets with a hole for a screw through them. I had to buy 50 to get the 4 I've used so far. Thinking about a small table. Thick top. 3/8" wood dowels for legs. Held into holes int the top with a magnet screw into the bottom. A pan head screw in the ends of the dowels to snap to the magnets. Wood ball or some shape of foot that also has a hole with a magnet to slip on the bottom end of the dowels. That would use up 8 magnets. Feet could be changed out when the seasons change or for any other whim that arises. Test with a scrap of wood: \ Good snap-to connection. Had to sand the dowel a bit for a slip fit. 4D steven newman, Grandpadave52, DuckSoup and 4 others 7 Quote
4DThinker Posted March 13 Report Posted March 13 Set up my CNC to drill holes for the dowels. 5.8 degree tilt. Centered on the corner ridges. Dowels a bit tight, so sanded the ends using my hand drill and sandpaper. Fit still snug and will take a bit more work. Should snap in with no resistance once the magnets are in place. Ordered some 1.5"d wood balls for the feet. Not here yet. Oak and walnut dowels seem to be stiff enough but the top may wobble a bit if encouraged to. 17.5" long. Table should end up 18.5" tall. Top was originally made for another idea thus the mortises in the center. That idea never panned out. 4D Grandpadave52 1 Quote
steven newman Posted March 13 Author Report Posted March 13 Set the towel back onto the Tablesaw Set the Table upside down on that towel...towel allows me to spin the table, so I can varnish evrything from the Table's underside to the feet of the legs. Double check that I did not miss a spot...and allow things to dry. Phase #1 is done. Phase #2 will start when the varnish in Phase #1 is dry...then flip table over, and varnish the Top of the Table..and allow it to dry. Stay tuned.. Harry Brink, lew, Grandpadave52 and 1 other 4 Quote
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