A long long time ago...

In a galaxy far far away.....

SAW WARS!!!!!

 

with steve newman as Darth Vader.....

 

😆

Yep..except this is a very bad Light Sabre..

Likes to drift a bit too much...

Sorry I missed class yesterday Mr. Newman. Parole Officer had me on Work Release assignments.

 

Also sorry but the dog ate my homework and my donut.

Saved those 2 parts..will need them for Joint #2..

Both need a rebate cut on one end...

Cut the shoulder..split off the waste, rinse and repeat..

Pare with a chisel, until they fit flush and square

 

Joint #3?  a mitered corner is merely added, to hide the end grain from showing..

Something like this...LOT of chisel work to do, as that mitered part is a bit hard to saw...basically, you do one half of this joint, trace the results out on the other half, and remove the waste..this one is a bit gappy..so..it Grades as a "C"

 

Joint No. 4?

Just a "simple" mitered corner joint..Simple, in that you got allowed to use one of these contraptions...

You learned how to cut 90 degree cuts, and learned how to set this for miter cuts....in that you learned how to swing the saw over to the 45 degree detent,,,Make sure it locks there, and STAYS locked in place... You would raise the saw up, place the part under the saw in the location you needed to cut.  You then were to SLOWLY let the saw down.    Then a LIGHT grip on the saw's handle to move the saw, while the other hand holds the part in place...and NOT let it move around. Then cut the other half of the corner joint, and see how they match up...

 

Grade? This one got an "A"...

Joint #4 was part of Worksheet #2

Those next 2 look like they were fun, to do...

 

Stay tuned...

Wood Joint #5..Mitered Corner, Flat...Begins with checking out your Tri Square...as some do get a bit worn...

Note the gap?  From many decades of having a knife run along the lower edge of the TriSquare's blade...Back then we would have been using one of..

Either the Red or the Black Stanley Squares..and we were taught a way to check the squares..

We would mark a line across, flip the square over, and mark a second line right beside the first line.  They were supposed to be parallel. we checked both edges of the blade, this way...and IF it passed, we were allowed to use THAT square...

To mark a lay out line...we then took this over to the Mitre Box & Saw..make the cut..bring both pieces back to the bench..

You would rotate the cut-off to form the 90 degree corner..should be square, with out a gap..repeat for the other half of this joint..

This one gets a "B" Grade...due to the slight gap at the point..(might have been a dust bunny under one of them?)

 

Which leaves...

Joint #6:   Half Lap.

Need to get one part centered up..

Yep, they measured in from both ends to check that Part #2 was indeed centered on Part #1..and the lines were squared across

You could knife those pencil lines, if you wanted to..however it will result in the saw splitting those lines.  Why is this a bad idea?   Because those lines are the outside edges of Part #2, there will be a small gap, making the joint a loose fit.....IF you do use the knife, cut to the waste side of the lines..and the saw will cut to the waste side as well..

(Guess who did knife those lines)  next, marking gauge to mark out how deep you will be going..check from both faces to ensure the line is centered..

Should be 3/8"..Should.  This will be a depth stop...select the saw to make a few cuts with..

In this case..3...center one to help remove the waste..

The downside of chopping this way...is there is a chance that the edges might blowout....Paul Sellers chops with the grain, not across..until it is time to pare this mess flat, and to exact depth....Now, IF the tool crib has a Router Plane..sign it out, set the cutter to exact depth, and pare towards the center, coming in from both edges..

Supposed to look like this, when done.., then use part #1 to lay out Part #2....

And..double check where THAT line is...Then make a shoulder cut....first a marking gauge..

Mark is a bit wavy on the end grain...once all the lines and marking up are done AND checked out..Cross cut the shoulder...leaving the line..

 

Then mallet and chisel can get to work, again..

Work your way back to the lines, a bit at a time, watching how the grain reacts..once you get to the lines, pare the final little bit flat..

Then a dry fit...

it should fit snug, and sit flush at the joint, and be square..

 

Due to the knife the line, there is a 1/32" gap on the other face..and a misplaced layout line...Grade..."C+".

 

Awaiting Worksheet #3..

 

Stay tuned..

 

 

Worksheet #3 has arrived.

.

Only 2 wood joints, though...

Part of today's Tasks...was to check over the MitreBox..

As there were "Issues" with it...Yes, that IS a sheet of coarse sandpaper under the saw.   Plywood panel has been removed, too.  Screwdriver has a couple jobs to do. 

To keep the saw from cutting into the metal "Gib" and dulling it's teeth, the sandpaper is used to set a little bit of clearance between the 2..

This saw frame used these as a depth stop...when they hit the guide post, the saw will stop cutting any deeper..in theory..this one had slipp up a little bit, causing the saw to cut too deep...a second issue cropped up, as well....was getting a slight wave to the cuts.

That large slotted head bolt..locks the swing arm to the guide posts..keep the blade at 90 degree to the table...bolt had gotten a bit loose..so...cranked it down tight..no more sloppy cuts..

 

Wood Joint No. 7..began when I cut two 1 x 3 x 6" parts..on this mitrebox & saw....some layouts were done ( not with standing the Brain Farts)

2 sets of lines going on here...note the 45 degree line on the face?  "X" also marks out the waste on the inside of the joint....some cuts were easy..

Simple cross cut to depth...the Miter cuts were also sawn this way...Tried the No. 4 Backsaw as it was filed rip..to try to saw away the waste...grain decided to fight, TODAY

To the point even the 24mm wide chisel was having issues...Brought out the 2" WIDE Framer Chisel..and let it pare away any high spots down to match the low spots..

 

Finally got things close enough for a dry fit..

This is the "show face"  and..

This would be on the inside (out of sight) view of the joint..Can be planed square when it was glued up..

Grade?   Maybe a "C"...was not real happy with this one...so

 

Other than cut 2 more 6" long blanks, and doing a wee bit of Layout work..

"X" marks the waste areas..that marking gauge helped out..

Called a Stanley No. 77 Mortise marking gauge...twin points, one is adjustable..there is a single pin as well..

I locked in the settings, because I'll need the same lines for this piece..as it is to slide down onto the first one...once I chop out the center  to form a slot..

 

At which point, I just stopped for the day..

 

There IS a way to use the mitrebox to help make these cuts...by adjusting the stops to control how deep a cross cut will go....a bit more precise that the MK 2 MOD 4 Eyeballs...I just MIGHT try that...and leave it set up for doing tenon shoulders later?

 

Stay tuned

Joint #8, today..first the marking knife needed a sharpening..

So I could knife the lines a bit better,   I also hauled a selection of chisels to use..

Yep..them Harbor Freight ones, in their new wood case..

 

back when I went through this class, the backsaw in use was a plastic handled Stanley....which is long gone, so..

Saw cuts down to just short of the line...Then a chisel to remove most of the waste..

Then a wide chisel and a router plane..

To level and smooth down to the layout line...flip this over...repeat for the other face..

Then layout and saw the slot...then chisel out the waste....2" wide Slick to pare IN the slot...as it was skinny enough..

Dry fit?

Some small gaps..check for square?

Not too hateful?

Grade?   Thinking this will get a"B"...

 

Back to Drafting Class..and await Worksheet #4

Worksheet #4..

Might take a couple days to complete..maybe?

Stay tuned..

Laundry Detail, this morning...so...

Tenon laid out.  and a selection of tools, for today..

.

Ready for the shoulder cuts...cheeks can be split off, IF the grain allows..need to check for high spots..

However..grain was NOT allowing things to be split off the other face..so..

We have ways...

Also needed to cut these 2 off...

Tenon is done..time for a mortise to match this..

Something like this...will be using the Mortising Jig...

1/4" width chisel to do the chopping...going 1/8" deep each time, clean the chips, and continue on..about 8 trips, clean the sides a bit..

Check for depth and fit..

No gaps...a small chip out, not too hateful..check for square, and any gaps along the side..

Not too hateful?  Grade?

I suppose I had better go and work on #10 today?

 

Film @2300hrs..

Hypothetical question here:  Is there a reason the tenon has to be in the center of the end?  I'm OK with it being centered in the thickness of that board, but in a corner joint wouldn't it be less likely to break out the end grain of the mortised board if it was slid back away from the end, say 1/4" or so to leave more meat at the end? Leave 1/8" or so of a shoulder on the inside to cover any mistakes/sloppiness in fit.   If this was a T-intersection I'd leave it all centered.  On a corner I'd move the mortise away from the end.

Just some food for thought.  A thought exercise I use to give my students.   

4D

Edited July 3, 20241 yr by 4DThinker

Reasons for the slight offset...not structural but..more of a way to hide the mortise from view..

 

Joint #10...Through Mortise...lay out work..

I rip sawed all 4 sides of the tenon,,,With the Disston D8....was easier to keep on track than the rest of the mob of saws..All cross cuts were with the Disston No. 68 Gents saw..pared with the 2" wide slick...

Hmmm..3/16" or 1/4"?  

The 3/16" will fit inside the lines..and I can then pare to the lines as needed .

Chop down about halfway from both edges..I had to scoot the part to the right, to allow chips a way to leave...pare the walls..

Working on getting things flat inside..and ready for a dry fit..

Thought about using the 79 as a shoulder plane..but..the slick worked better

It is square...point deductions for alignment...

Grade?  about a C+..I think..needed a mallet to assemble...

 

Tomorrow's Joint?   No. 11, Dado...

 

May do a Dovetail or 2, later? 

Need to haul the "Good" Shop Stool to the shop...old standby broke, today...FUBARed...

 

Stay tuned..

Shop Stool had a "Breakdown" today...

Joints were rusted through, one too many "Scooots. and the sound of a metal tie rod hitting the shop floor...Proper term would be FUBAR..

 

We have a "Spare"

hauled this to the shop..wasn't easy..but..

Might be a tad too tall?   Because, when I sit down on it...

This is the view...( nose-bleed section?)....will give a tryout tomorrow...may get the Sawzall out, and lower things down a bit...hey, at least the seat will spin when you sit on it..

Maybe this one won't rust out

Wood Joint #11...Dado Joint...first off, I needed 2 blanks to work with, so...

Cut one to 6" length...use it to mark the second one..

And done...

Lay out work..

mark and knife the lines...all around...next..

Paul Sellers likes to make what he calls a Knife Wall...cut in from the waste side, and into the knifed line...as a way to help guide a saw in the cut..

A "Proper" Joinery Saw...Disston No.68....goal here is to cut on the waste side of the lines..

Also..stop just short of the depth line...we have ways....

Sellers also like this way to remove MOST of the waste...chop in from the middle, towards the sawn line...takes about two tries from each direction...then either a chisel..

To pare things flat, or..

Set this to 3/8" depth, come in from both edges towards the middle...watching for high spots...

The line is supposed to be ..gone...then a dry fit..

 

Yep..I did leave the lines...in fact...a hammer was needed for this...

A trick the Japanese Woodworkers use...is to "hammer" a part that is too "fat"...and try again..

No gaps...parts are square to each other...you can pick this piece up by the upright, and it will stay together..no glue nor fasteners needed..

Grade?

 

Have got a start on the next 2 wood joints....

This will be either #12, or #13....as for #14?    Wait and see...

 

Stay tuned...

Worksheet No.5 has arrived..

Thinking these 3 will count as the "Final Exams"? 

 

Unless somebody can think of any other joints they want to see done...

 

Pay Day:  Will try to lay in a supply of Hardwood....Ash, maybe....and see what I can cobble up from that stash...we'll see

 

Film @2300 hrs...will see how #12 goes...

butt joint, duct tape both sides..... (hiding).

Joint #12...Tails first, half blind Dovetails...we'll see how this goes..

Need this brought to the work area, as it MIGHT come in handy..

Trying to decide what looks good enough..mark out the waste..

Saw & Chop with a chisel, or 3...still not quite right...even for Pine but..Mark a couple base lines...

Another across the end grain...as the tails are 1/2" ones   and I need to leave a 1/4" lip...then try to trace around the pins...Knife is too fat,Pencil was too dull..

Joinery  saw...Trying to cut on the waste side of the lines, and NOT saw into the baselines.......Hmmm, how to get into those corners, where the saw could not?

We have ways

NOT your everyday Putty Knife, with a flexy blade...seems Red Devil made stiff ones, too..Just so happens, the blade is the same thickness as the saw kerf.  Do NOT sharpen on of these, as it will become a wedge and split the wood..   Just make sure it is flat, then drive the "Kerf Chisel" Straight down into the saw kerf  with a hammer..until you reach the baseline..

 

Then clamp this to the bench top, a few chisels to remove the waste, and hopefully leave a flat floor... and try a few (4) dry fits...and hope for the best..

a bit gappy on one tail..and still needed  a mallet to install?

At least check this for square?

Ok...at least the square is happy, happy...Grade?   Due to the gaps..."C-".....shows how far out of Practice I am, doing these with just hand tools

 

Stay tuned...Have #13 to do, NEXT!

On 7/6/2024 at 2:02 PM, steven newman said:

Worksheet No.5 has arrived..

Thinking these 3 will count as the "Final Exams"? 

 

Unless somebody can think of any other joints they want to see done...

 

Pay Day:  Will try to lay in a supply of Hardwood....Ash, maybe....and see what I can cobble up from that stash...we'll see

 

Film @2300 hrs...will see how #12 goes...

ooohhhh, dovetails!!

 

Wood Joint #13 sounds Lucky, don't it more like Luck of the Irish?

 

#13 Wood Joint:  Through Dovetails

Was a time, when making a drawer, the halfblind DTs were up at the Front, and the back of the drawer was connected with through Dovetails.

Ok..lets see how I do, and doing tails first, again..

 

tails laid out...looking a lot better than the last set...waste has been marked out..saw is next..

Staying (at least trying) on the waste side of the lines..then use a couple chisels to remove the waste..

BIG difference between the 2 ends..This time, I did sharpen the No. 2 Pencil to the sharpest point it ever had.  Set the tails on top of the pin board, trace around each tail..

Saw is next..

Again, trying to leave the lines, and cut on the waste side...then chisel the waste out,, and do a dry fit or 2...

ONE Gap!, And, I needed a mallet to assemble?   Hmmmm somewhere was very TIGHT..

Now, IF this mess is square?

Inside, and ..

Close enough for the Girls I run around with....Grade?    Thinking maybe a "B+"?

 

#14 and final joint of this exam, will be a Box Joint...Stay tuned..