8 hours ago, derekcohen said:

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

I spent a couple of weeks in Sydney a number of years ago.  One thing that kind of surprised me was though there were all the international car brands, they seemed to have unique models.  (At least different than USA and Canada).

I was at E B Mueller, a local equipment dealer and my favorite, today.   They are bringing in Marc Adams for a couple of Saturdays to do a session on dovetailing.   I'll post when I get the dates.

Dry fit...

3 hours ago, steven newman said:

Dry fit...

Steven, would you walk us through the steps here: marking out (both the baseline and the slopes), what angles you prefer (and why), their spacing (and why), where you cut dovetails at the bench, your preferred dovetail saw (and why), and how you transfer the marks (I know you prefer pins-first). Why pins-first?

 

There is so much more than may be learned than just a "I did it photo", which you did state earlier. I thought that you might want to demonstrate this as well. Many here are interested.

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

 

 

Well, there IS an entire BLOG post going on, right now....something about a Case for Chisels.....Maybe just take a look around.....along with a few of my other build-along posts here...

 

Rinse and repeat 3 more times....

 

 

 

Edited October 11, 20205 yr by steven newman

Just photos Steven .... no explanation. That's like being told about eating Christmas turkey

 

For example, this photo ...

 

 

The dovetails look rather weak to me. I recall doing this early on when building furniture cases with dovetails, some 15 or 20 years ago ...'

 

I built this chest for my son back then, and these were the drawers ...

 

 

 

Later I realised that I had spaced out the tails so widely that they looked reversed. Luckily the meat at the base was wide enough to carry it off. Even though he is now 27 and lives with his fiance, he still has this chest of drawers all these years later, and it is going strong ...

 

\

 

By contrast, here is a much later drawer for an armoire ..

 

 

The tails are spread out at varying positions. That was my period of being very influenced by Krenov, who would suggest this. 

 

That was this project ...

 

 

The drawer sides are also thin, about 1/4", requiring slips. Have you ever built drawers with slips?  

 

This is an article on slips and fitting drawer bottoms:  http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/DrawerBottomsIntoSlips.html

 

I learn more from explanations "why" than just a photo where I have to guess "what" was done. Please explain what and why you made your choices.

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

Well, we can keep this crap going....but..I have a case for some chisels to build....explanation for those pictures has already been posted in that thread....go stalk THAT thread, if you want...

 

Mmm ... not very mature of you. I thought that this was a forum for discussion.

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

Hmmm.

Whatever..

tends to happen when I do tails first...

Lets try a little something...different...different layout lines

No bevel gauge, just a single chisel is needed..

Whatever width fingers you want...

Then saw the lines,,,

Same chisel to chop out the waste...use these fingers to lay out the matching ones, saw, and chop, and dry fit..

Later, clamps and glue...

Add a bottom and a lid, coat of finish...

And it is now a fancy little Recipe Box.....with hand cut box/finger joints....in Ash.

 

 

 

18 hours ago, derekcohen said:

Thanks. We have all the same tools as available in the US. There are a number of stores that import Veritas, LN, etc. The woodworking community in Australia is no different from that around the world, and the world is a small place now thanks to the internet. We live across the world from each other, and do exactly the same things, influenced similarly .. well, Oz was probably influenced more in the past by the UK, with many migrants from the 50's onward. Get a copy of the Australian Wood Review magazine to sample the local approach. 

 

My machines are predominantly Austrian (3xHammer) and New Zealand (2xNova), with Australian, Canadian and US hand planes, saws, chisels ... 

 

Our wood is different. Certainly West Australian wood is very hard, but also very beautiful. 

I am not sure if the tolerances of the green tape match those of the blue tape. Let us know how you get on ....

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

True Derek, the difference being we seem to pay Australian tax on everything we buy.

It's amazing to me how much overhead gets tacked onto prices, even for manufacturers that have offices here.

 

Still, we get there in the end I guess.

 

A tip from Paul Sellers
 

 

28 minutes ago, kmealy said:

A tip from Paul Sellers
 

 

I remember seeing something like this and thought I had it bookmarked but can't find it now. Thanks!

BTW:  When I get all four sides of a box jointed project milled..

I tend to lay them out, to check on how they are lining up....a nice straight line would be nice

 

Just a handsaw, and a chisel...no machines needed..

1 minute ago, steven newman said:

..a nice straight line would be nice

So its not optional then??

Depends on how you want the box to turn out....I prefer squared, and not rocking...

These were built to house a couple planes.  top one is for a Stanley No. 71-1/2 Router plane...the bottom box?

Is a replacement for the OEM box, that the USPS used as a football ( busted the lid)...not only did I have to rehab the Stanley No. 45 inside, I had to build a copy of the OEM box.

"Some assembly required"

Parts is..parts..

Yes, the original had that diagonal 1 x 1 ....there were/are two rows of cutters on the end.   with cardboard spacers.  

 

OEM box used finger/box joints...so does this one, with the same exact spacing and sized fingers.  Just this one was done with hand tools...