Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

The Few, The Proud, The Patriot Woodworker's! Make no bones about it, we aren't many, but we are very proud of our community here!

derekcohen

Members
  • Content Count

    81
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About derekcohen

  • Rank
    Gopher

Profile

  • First Name
    Derek
  • My Location
    Perth, Australia
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Advanced
  • Favorite Quote
    ""

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Mmm ... not very mature of you. I thought that this was a forum for discussion. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. Just photos Steven .... no explanation. That's like being told about eating Christmas turkey For example, this photo ... The dovetails look rather weak to me. I recall doing this early on when building furniture cases with dovetails, some 15 or 20 years ago ...' I built this chest for my son back then, and these were the drawers ... Later I realised that I had spaced out the tails so widely that they looked reversed. Luckily the meat at the base was wide enough to carry it off. Even though he is now 27 and lives with his fiance, he still has this chest of drawers all these years later, and it is going strong ... \ By contrast, here is a much later drawer for an armoire .. The tails are spread out at varying positions. That was my period of being very influenced by Krenov, who would suggest this. That was this project ... The drawer sides are also thin, about 1/4", requiring slips. Have you ever built drawers with slips? This is an article on slips and fitting drawer bottoms: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/DrawerBottomsIntoSlips.html I learn more from explanations "why" than just a photo where I have to guess "what" was done. Please explain what and why you made your choices. Regards from Perth Derek
  3. Steven, would you walk us through the steps here: marking out (both the baseline and the slopes), what angles you prefer (and why), their spacing (and why), where you cut dovetails at the bench, your preferred dovetail saw (and why), and how you transfer the marks (I know you prefer pins-first). Why pins-first? There is so much more than may be learned than just a "I did it photo", which you did state earlier. I thought that you might want to demonstrate this as well. Many here are interested. Regards from Perth Derek
  4. Thanks. We have all the same tools as available in the US. There are a number of stores that import Veritas, LN, etc. The woodworking community in Australia is no different from that around the world, and the world is a small place now thanks to the internet. We live across the world from each other, and do exactly the same things, influenced similarly .. well, Oz was probably influenced more in the past by the UK, with many migrants from the 50's onward. Get a copy of the Australian Wood Review magazine to sample the local approach. My machines are predominantly Austrian (3xHammer) and New Zealand (2xNova), with Australian, Canadian and US hand planes, saws, chisels ... Our wood is different. Certainly West Australian wood is very hard, but also very beautiful. I am not sure if the tolerances of the green tape match those of the blue tape. Let us know how you get on .... Regards from Perth Derek
  5. ... this piece of mine in the Gallery ... Derek Cohen of Perth, Australia, built this chest of drawers for his wife; it features figured Jarrah drawers and a makore frame-and-panel case. “Essentially, the design is a modern bombé, with tapered and curved sides, and a bow front. The drawers required compound dovetails,” he said. The top conceals a dressing-table mirror, and the top drawer has a hidden Quaker lock to protect a jewelry drawer with sliding trays.⁠⠀ JARRAH AND MAKORE, 16-1⁄2D X 24-1⁄2W X 49H⁠⠀ FROM FWW 285⁠⠀ ⁠⠀ These were the photos they did not publish ... Regards from Perth Derek
  6. Steven, I would love to see you in action. I do not have an assistant - just a phone on a tripod (which is clear when you watch my "videos"). Regards from Perth Derek
  7. Well Steven, I did post three or four pictorials on how to cut dovetails at the start. But here is a link to videos I have made, all in real time, so do not watch if tired! https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCa0A27dNoxW2b8lGNzCRpsw The last one ... These were made rather impromtu with my phone. Perhaps you could do so for us as well? Regards from Perth Derek
  8. Okay, a few more dovetailed boxes ... Box with coppered lid ... Lapdesk ... Regards from Perth Derek
  9. Box for a shoulder plane ... 3" long x 1 1/4" wide http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Alittlefunwithdovetails.html Regards from Perth Derek
  10. Sawing dovetails are no different to sawing tenons, or any other joinery - one has to mark cleanly, see clearly, and saw to the lines. Basic dovetails can be quickly mastered with persistence and practice - just have a "go for it" attitude! More advanced dovetails take a little longer Through dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ThroughDovetails3.html Half-blind dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/HalfBlindDovetailswithBlueTape.html Houndstooth dovetail: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuidingaBench4.html Mitred through dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AnotherCoffeeTable2.html Regards from Perth Derek
  11. Gerald, yes the edge lasts longer with a higher grit. How much longer? It depends on all the factors I mentioned before. But, assuming all conditions are equal, 8000 grit will last until it becomes 6000 grit by wear, which will last until it becomes 4000 grit by wear, which will last until it becomes 1000 grit .... all the way to 250 grit. Regards from Perth Derek
  12. Gerald How long is a piece of string? You know from turning that some woods are harder or more abrasive than others. It depends. Similarly, you could use high carbon steel (O1), or you could use A2, or M2 or M4 steel in the lathe chisel. They all hold up differently. In plane blades, A2 will last twice as long as O1, and PM-V11 will last twice as long as A2. LN only offers A2, while Veritas offers all. A2 is a good steel, but it is made of large carbide grains and the edge is harder to sharpen. The wire is difficult to remove. That can interfere with sharpness. O1 and PM-V11 (a powdered, sintered steel) have very fine grain, with minimal wire and are easier to sharpen and both take the finest edge. Honing to a higher grit extends the edge retention. Think of this: which would you rather use, a hand plane with a rough sole, or a hand plane with smooth sole which has also been waxed? Regards from Perth Derek
  13. Edit to add: This for all blades, regardless of maker and whether they are after-market or purchased with a plane. I have visited the Veritas factory and watched the preparation of blades. I have also been testing their pre-production tools (for the factory) for about 15 years. Veritas are the State of the Art, and their blades end at 400 grit. It is that they are lapped so flat that makes it possible to prepare them quickly for higher grits. John, I did say that everyone is different in their needs and I would never tell another to change their methods if it works for them. I only comment when there is a perception left that a method is the final word. Rarely is that ever the case for anything in woodworking. Most find this out by experience. I simply wanted to alert the inexperienced here to keep an open mind. That is my last word on this topic. This was a civil discussion. We are still friends as far as I am concerned. Regards from Perth Derek
  14. At the risk of harping on a topic, no manufacturer says that their blades are ready to go when purchased; all state that they need to be honed. I harp because I would not like readers here to believe that these plane blade edges are good enough or a measure of what edges should be like. In addition to LN, Lee Valley/Veritas state, "All our blades have a lapped face and are ground with a bevel that requires only final honing to 30° before use". HNT Gordon state, "If it is a new blade, you may need to hone the back of the blade quite a bit, until it is completely flat at the edge. To sharpen your blade ..." I accept that a blade will appear to be sharp and can be used out of the box, but this does not mean that the edge is working sharp. It really comes down to the wood you are planing, and your expectations (which is also a function of your experience). Paul Sellers has demonstrated planing with a coarsely sharpened plane blade (250 grit), which shows it can be done, but he notes it is significantly harder to push than (what he refers to as) 15000 grit (I would have liked to have seen him try this with hardwood, and especially something that was not perfectly clear as his test board - that was cheating). Paul made this video in reaction to "magazines saying that you need 20000 .. 50000 grit". The irony here is that Paul includes Veritas green compound in his honing procedure, stropping about 50x on it at the end. Green compound is 0.5 micron, which is 60000 grit! Good one Paul! I work with hardwoods, and the grain on these are mostly interlocked. If I left the plane blades at 400 grit (as reported by Lee Valley), it would leave a poor surface riddled with tearout. You may get away for a while with clear Pine or Walnut, both easy-to-plane woods. Still, the surface quality of the wood would not be nearly as good as even 6000 or 8000 grit. Regards from Perth Derek
  15. Gunny, I am not sure that I should respond to this here ... but I guess there is a relationship with the topic, which is opinions about sharpening. There is an old computer saying (back in the 70's ..): "Garbage in, garbage out". In other words, psychometric tests are no different from many other activities - there is no magic. It is part of an interaction between two objects/people/etc. If one part does not wish to participate (behave in an oppositional way, that is, deliberately obscure and resist the interaction), then the result of this will be nonsensical. The counsellor will indeed scratch his/her head because they were hoping for a reciprocal relationship, with the intention to help, and not having to deal with a resistant and angry individual (which is not really so unusual given the circumstances of loss ... anger is one of the stage of bereavement). Can we relate this to the thread at hand? I think so. Just look at the responses of others who immediately act in a defiant and aggressive manner or tone. Regards from Perth Derek
×
×
  • Create New...