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derekcohen

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About derekcohen

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  • First Name
    Derek
  • My Location
    Perth, Austraia
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    Male
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    Advanced
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  1. I purchased one of Paul's planes, 1882 Miller Patent Plough Plane, as a kit in 2009. It was rough cast ... The original Miller Patent Plough Plane was reported to sell in the $25,000 range. Clearly a rare and sought after plane by collectors. This was my work on it ... Paul does stunning work. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. Thanks for the kind words. I always say if something is worth doing ... I try to avoid shortcuts - it is likely that I will look back at that and regret doing so. The bronze bushings came from an on-line supplier. These are to minimise wear. The diamonds are 3mm brass plate I cut out, shaped, drilled, and morticed into the chop. The bushings sit on top of the brass. The brass has no function other than to look nice Regards from Perth Derek
  3. Many of my projects involve bow fronts, which result in compound angle dovetails ... I do enjoy building furniture with dovetailing challenges. Between furniture pieces, I find time to build a new tool. This time it is the Moxon dovetail vise I have been promising myself for a while. My first and only one was built in early 2011, after Chris Schwarz helped put it on the map. I immediately modified this design, and have been making modifications since. (Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html This new Moxon incorporates the best ideas. Ironically, this design is not geared for compound angles. I decided to heed my own advice and keep it as simple as possible, and cater for the 90% of the dovetailing that is likely to be done. The width of the vise is narrower than my previous one, but capable of 450mm (17 3/4")between the screws. Most cases I built are between 350 - 450mm deep. My previous Moxon could do 560mm (22") between the screws. This is unnecessary, and just makes for a very large fixture. Where the old Moxon used wooden screws, which I turned, this uses steel Acme screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted ... except that these came via Tom Bussey (thanks Tom), which amounted to a large savings. The wheels are 5" in diameter on a 3/4" screw. The front chop is 5 1/2" high, and the Moxon is built in Jarrah ... what else do you expect! I went a little OTT in this build, but it was fun, and I admit I did become a little carried away Brass inlay ... The chop runs on bronze bushings ... Lining the inside of the vise is rubberised cork. This makes a great non-slip (not my idea - this comes from BenchCrafted, who call it "crubber". Simply search eBay for "cork rubber"). This vise is a good height for sawing ... There are a few innovations. The rear of the vise ... This is a spacer, and it can be locked into the up position ... The spacer has two functions. The first is setting the pin board (10mm) above the chop to prevent scoring the chop when transferring tails to pins with a knife (this is more of a danger with through dovetails). Also, by lifting the work, there will be light behind the pin board, and this makes it easier to align the edges. The crubber makes a great non-slip. The spacer may be dropped out of the way, once the height is set ... The second use of the spacer is that it has a sliding dovetail at the top, and this allows for the use of MicroJig clamps. This would be especially useful for holding wide boards, or tail board which have developed a slight bow ... I have used this on other fixtures, such as a morticing jig. For aligning the tail- and pin boards, I prefer a simple wide square I made from wood ... The spacer needs to be dropped out of the way for this ... Once transfer is made, reverse the board and saw the pins. This is where you will recognise that the cove is not simply decoration, but allows the saw to angle and get closer to the work piece. The lower the work piece in the vise, the less vibration when sawing ... And thats it ... the last moxon dovetail vise ... Regards from Perth Derek
  4. In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled. With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ... However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ... Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful. Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything. Let's take it from the beginning: Step 1: saw the pins ... Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ... Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler! The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!). The jig This turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide. I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths. To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ... Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ... This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ... Let's talk about the router. This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use. The base The base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher. There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet. Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ... This is the underside ... Plans for anyone looking to make their own ... Setting up Step 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides. Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ... The result The router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ... Turn the board around to chisel out the waste .. Order of waste removal First lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ... Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ... Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ... A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. Back on track ... this was taken several years ago. It looks quite gaudy now ... like plunder from a treasure chest Regards from Perth Derek
  6. I used the K3 slider this afternoon to rip a very rough, live edge board, and took a few photos to show you what it can do. The task was simple enough - joint one side of this .... With a traditional cabinet saw, one would attach the board to a something with a straight edge (such as MDF), and use that to guide the one side against the rip fence and the other side though the saw blade. Typically, the sawn edge would still be a little rough, and so it would be taken to a jointer. With the slider, you simply jamb the end into a "shoe", with the overhand to be removed towards the blade side. The other end is held and pushed forward simultaneously with half the Fritz and Franz jig (the crosscut fence is removed to facilitate this) ... I took one cut at a point where I thought it would leave a clear side, but there was a smidgeon that was still "live" ... So I ran it through again, about a 1/4" in. This time it was perfect ... This edge is now glue-ready. The jointer is unnecessary. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. The F&F jig is taking away from the original topic (I can post more bronze if you wish), but here are a couple of videos: The first video is the original one ... If you do not want make your own .. My Hammer K3 slider has a shorter stroke than these. I only work with hard woods, not with MDF or ply. Still, a F&F jig is useful for point-and-shoot ripping. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. This is a Fritz and Franz jig - essentially, it is a fixed fence (at the far end) and a push block (near end), and the work piece id place between them. This is for ripping, not crosscutting. These pieces are short, but one can rip long sections. This is especially handy when you need to clean up one side of a rough sawn board - just send it through. There is no need to joint one side first. Regards from Perth Derek
  9. Oh yes. Quite popular as well. I was tossing up between the SS and the Hammer K3 slider 2 years ago now. After several close examinations alongside one another at the West Australian Wood Show at the time, it was evident that they were both built to a similar, high standard. What it came down to in the end was that I wanted a sliding crosscut feature. The SS offered an accessory crosscut mitre, however this ran about 12-15 inches away from the blade. The K3 slider ran 1" from the blade. That makes a huge difference in practice. Then I was introduced to ripping on the slider using a Fritz and Frans jig, and it opened up a whole world of possibilities how a saw table could be used. The Hammer is also 4 hp and runs a 12" blade. I ended up with the K3. It was way above my budget going in, but I have a wonderful wife, who told me to get it. I always listen to my wife Regards from Perth Derek
  10. Rats ... sorry about misreading that John. It's been so much fun to post. There have been so many articles and tools I had not looked at in years. Sort of like rediscovering a tool one purchased years ago, slipped into a drawer, and forgot it was there! I look forward to your comments. Regards from Perth Derek
  11. I am fairly new to the forum, but have been building furniture and tools for some decades. When I started out, it was with whatever I could afford, which was not much. What is clear to me is that, as most here know, tools do not make a craftsman. On the other hand, crappy tools do make it harder to become a craftsman. Given the choice, I'd rather use nice tools than not. I am rather fortunate now to own and use some nice tools. Even better, some were payment for helping design or testing them for production. Mostly, this has been with Lee Valley/Veritas, but also includes other manufacturers. John, in regard to your statement that an 80 year-old tablesaw cannot be beat, I assume that you have not used a decent slider They are in a different league ... do things differently. A few years ago I was upgrading the contractor saw I had used for 20 years, and chose a Hammer K3 slider over the SawStop plus all the trimmings. I would not go back. When it comes to hand planes, there are so many types from which to choose.Woodies, Bailey, Bevel Up, Bevel Down, Infill, High Angle, Low Angle, Common Angle, Half Pitch ... Choose what is comfortable for you, and gets you the results you need. There is a page on my website with many tool reviews: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/index.html I am fortunate to have done a lot of work with Lee Valley, and being in a select position to share with others my experiences and insights into tools that they may not get to use. There are also other manufacturers. One review which I shall point all towards is ostensibly about the Veritas Custom Planes. It is, however, a three-part article about plane design, ergonomics and use. I think it is worth reading: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasCustomPlanes1.html So, wither bronze or steel? I have the LN Anniversary #4 1/2 (only 500 were made), and a bronze #3 ... Now I am rather partial to bevel down planes using the chipbreaker to control tearout. The Veritas Custom #4 has a 42-degree bed and yet planes the most interlocked grain you can imagine (and that is what we have in Western Australia). The PM-V11 steel is possibly the finest steel available for planes ... However, the plane that I consider to be one of the most under rated and one that is simply superb is this one (below). I wonder if you can guess what it is (since I modified it) ... Regards from Perth Derek
  12. Here are a bunch of saws, and after this I shall give you guys a break The first is a carcase saw: 14" long and 2 1/4" wide saw blade, 14 ppi crosscut. The wood is Jarrah. This was a lot more work than the end result indicates. The raised lamb's tongue is tiny for the extra effort involved in carving away all but the raised areas (one on each side of the handle) before shaping the handle ... The following is a joinery saw, 9" long plate with 1 1/2" of cutting area and 16 ppi crosscut. I always wanted a small mitre box. The large Millers Falls #74 and #75 are gigantic, and really carpenter tools - not for fine woodworking. I wanted the Millers Falls #15 1/2 ... but they are like hen's teeth and expensive. So I build one, which I called the Steam Punk Mitre Box See the difference in size with a #74 ... The mitrebox is Jarrah and brass, just under 17" in length, 4" deep, and 3 1/4" to the top of the fences. It utilises rare earth magnets on a slide as a saw guide ... This is the rear: sliding fences and angle marker .... A few years ago, I managed to win this Millers Falls #15 1/2 mitre box on eBay cheaply as it was, well, buggered ... welded and missing parts, especially the specialised mitre box saw ... The original saw was 16" long with a depth of 2 1/2". The one I built has a plate filed 13 tpi crosscut, and is 0.20" thick. The saw handle was inspired by a Grove tenon saw handle made by George Wilson, whom I consider to be one of the finest craftsmen around, whether tools or musical instruments. George built the saws for Colonial Williamsburg. Restored box and saw ... Regards from Perth Derek
  13. Not really. What ever I design is offered via my website or forums to whoever wants to build it for themself. For the past 10 years or so I have been fortunate to be sent tools from Lee Valley/Veritas for pre-production testing. This sometimes begins with renders and plastic printed versions, and then ends with the real thing. It was a big thrill in 2013 to visit the factory and sit in with the design team. Some of the tools do have a small fingerprint of mine, but mostly it was giving them the go-ahead. I have many of the Veritas hand planes and a custom set of the PM-V11 chisels. Some years ago I designed a jig/tool for Veritas for hand sawing tenons. They sat on the design for a few years, but it did not go into production. I do not know why. I think it is brilliant. The design was too good to waste, so it is on my website for anyone to copy ... http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/TenonGuide.html Regards from Perth Derek
  14. Here's a smoother you can all make ... It is an infill BU smoother built from the shell of a Stanley #3. Most bevel up planes have a 12 degree bed. If you add a 30 degree bevel to the blade, you achieve a cutting angle of 42 degrees. this is too low for interlocked woods. Most bevel up planes recommend a 50 degree bevel for a cutting angle of 62 degree. However, this high angle makes it difficult to add camber to the bevel (as there is too much steel to remove). I built this plane with a 25 degree bad, and it only needs a 35 degree bevel for a 60 degree cutting angle. That is fairly easy to get a camber on. In practice, this has a phenomenal performance. It is small enough, with a low centre of gravity, to be used in one hand. Regards from Perth Derek
  15. The ramp on the shooting board is 5 degrees. While this is too low to impart a slicing cut, what it does it enable the blade to enter the wood at a slight angle rather than front on. This reducing the force of impact and the jarring that is experienced when using a straight blade and a flat shooting board. By contrast, shooting planes such as the Stanley/LN #51, with a blade skewed at 20 degrees, slice into the wood. This reduces impact and creates a cleaner cut. The LN#51 has a 45 degree bevel down cut, while the Veritas Shooting plane is bedded at 12 degrees. With a 25 degree bevel, it has a cutting angle of 37 degrees. The Veritas not only cuts more cleanly, but lasts about 3-4 times as long as the LN. Read this review: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/LVShootingPlane.html Regards from Perth Derek
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