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About derekcohen

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  1. Gerald, yes the edge lasts longer with a higher grit. How much longer? It depends on all the factors I mentioned before. But, assuming all conditions are equal, 8000 grit will last until it becomes 6000 grit by wear, which will last until it becomes 4000 grit by wear, which will last until it becomes 1000 grit .... all the way to 250 grit. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. Gerald How long is a piece of string? You know from turning that some woods are harder or more abrasive than others. It depends. Similarly, you could use high carbon steel (O1), or you could use A2, or M2 or M4 steel in the lathe chisel. They all hold up differently. In plane blades, A2 will last twice as long as O1, and PM-V11 will last twice as long as A2. LN only offers A2, while Veritas offers all. A2 is a good steel, but it is made of large carbide grains and the edge is harder to sharpen. The wire is difficult to remove. That can interfere with sharpness. O1 and PM-V11 (a powdered, sintered steel) have very fine grain, with minimal wire and are easier to sharpen and both take the finest edge. Honing to a higher grit extends the edge retention. Think of this: which would you rather use, a hand plane with a rough sole, or a hand plane with smooth sole which has also been waxed? Regards from Perth Derek
  3. Edit to add: This for all blades, regardless of maker and whether they are after-market or purchased with a plane. I have visited the Veritas factory and watched the preparation of blades. I have also been testing their pre-production tools (for the factory) for about 15 years. Veritas are the State of the Art, and their blades end at 400 grit. It is that they are lapped so flat that makes it possible to prepare them quickly for higher grits. John, I did say that everyone is different in their needs and I would never tell another to change their methods if it works for them. I only comment when there is a perception left that a method is the final word. Rarely is that ever the case for anything in woodworking. Most find this out by experience. I simply wanted to alert the inexperienced here to keep an open mind. That is my last word on this topic. This was a civil discussion. We are still friends as far as I am concerned. Regards from Perth Derek
  4. At the risk of harping on a topic, no manufacturer says that their blades are ready to go when purchased; all state that they need to be honed. I harp because I would not like readers here to believe that these plane blade edges are good enough or a measure of what edges should be like. In addition to LN, Lee Valley/Veritas state, "All our blades have a lapped face and are ground with a bevel that requires only final honing to 30° before use". HNT Gordon state, "If it is a new blade, you may need to hone the back of the blade quite a bit, until it is completely flat at the edge. To sharpen your blade ..." I accept that a blade will appear to be sharp and can be used out of the box, but this does not mean that the edge is working sharp. It really comes down to the wood you are planing, and your expectations (which is also a function of your experience). Paul Sellers has demonstrated planing with a coarsely sharpened plane blade (250 grit), which shows it can be done, but he notes it is significantly harder to push than (what he refers to as) 15000 grit (I would have liked to have seen him try this with hardwood, and especially something that was not perfectly clear as his test board - that was cheating). Paul made this video in reaction to "magazines saying that you need 20000 .. 50000 grit". The irony here is that Paul includes Veritas green compound in his honing procedure, stropping about 50x on it at the end. Green compound is 0.5 micron, which is 60000 grit! Good one Paul! I work with hardwoods, and the grain on these are mostly interlocked. If I left the plane blades at 400 grit (as reported by Lee Valley), it would leave a poor surface riddled with tearout. You may get away for a while with clear Pine or Walnut, both easy-to-plane woods. Still, the surface quality of the wood would not be nearly as good as even 6000 or 8000 grit. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. Gunny, I am not sure that I should respond to this here ... but I guess there is a relationship with the topic, which is opinions about sharpening. There is an old computer saying (back in the 70's ..): "Garbage in, garbage out". In other words, psychometric tests are no different from many other activities - there is no magic. It is part of an interaction between two objects/people/etc. If one part does not wish to participate (behave in an oppositional way, that is, deliberately obscure and resist the interaction), then the result of this will be nonsensical. The counsellor will indeed scratch his/her head because they were hoping for a reciprocal relationship, with the intention to help, and not having to deal with a resistant and angry individual (which is not really so unusual given the circumstances of loss ... anger is one of the stage of bereavement). Can we relate this to the thread at hand? I think so. Just look at the responses of others who immediately act in a defiant and aggressive manner or tone. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. John, I avoid sharpening threads because everyone has an opinion, and the threads generally disintegrate as posters become defensive about their position. It is amazing how competitive some are (should I be surprised - my day job is a shrink). I am also at a loss to say much about various sharpening stones when asked (I get asked a lot) because I do not experiment. At the same time, I do pay attention to sharpening because it is at the heart of woodworking. It does not take long to achieve sharp edges when you have a system that works. I never make comments about the systems of others. It is not for me to say whether they are right or wrong - there cannot be anything wrong if it works for you. I can only say what works for me, and if that helps another, well then I am happy to have done so. I have two pieces of advice in discussions like this: seek to develop a sharpening approach that suits the tool, and use new sharpening media for at least one year before deciding it does not work well. I have two systems of sharpening, because they suit these tools best (in my opinion): for all bevel down planes and non-laminated chisels, blades are hollow ground and then free hand sharpened on the hollow, so creating a micro bevel. For all laminated blades, such as Japanese blades, these are all free hand sharpened with a full, flat bevel. For all bevel up planes, these are hollow ground at 25 degrees, and then a honing guide is used to produce a secondary micro bevel at 50 degrees (the only way to camber such high angles). If this helps any here, then wonderful. Otherwise carry on. For the curious, this is the article I wrote on my set up: http://inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/UltimateGrindingSharpeningSetUp.html In my experience, no new blade has ever come to me sharp enough to work at the level I seek. Blades come “workable”, but all manufacturers I know (and I have worked with a few) expect that their blades will be sharpened when unpacked. The thing about hand tools is that they require ongoing upkeep. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. The primary bevel on LN bench planes is 25 degrees. This is too low for a BD bench plane. 30-33 degrees is the recommended bevel angle. Further, I have never come across a blade that was sharpened enough from a manufacturer. Blades from Veritas are honed to 400 grit and considered sharp! Grind to 30 degrees and sharpen as high as you can go. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. Hi Joiner, I assume you are referring to the chisel used to clean out the corners of the sockets (for the pins). This is a fishtail chisel. Here are three: Koyamaichi, Blue Spruce, and one I made from a Veritas chisel ... It is used by pushing into the corner of the sockets .. Regards from Perth Derek
  9. Hi Gerald There is no need for different woods. More relevant is how woodgrain is orientated for expansion and contraction, or how well they wear. The use of Jarrah under the slips is simply because it is far more hard wearing than Tasmanian Oak. Regards from Perth Derek
  10. My niece is getting married at the end of March, the entry hall table she asked for is completed, and in a couple of days it will head off to Sydney. This is the model for the table she wanted me to build, but to build it in Jarrah ... I needed to make a few modifications. The most notable were, firstly, that there are three drawers, where the model has two. With a little research, it became evident that the model was a "flat pack" build from a store in the UK, and it used slides and poppers for the drawers. Without slides, wide drawers will rack since the depth-to-width ratio is all wrong. Three drawers change this ratio and make it workable. Secondly, building a drawer to ride wood-on-wood, one cannot use poppers - and so drawer handles are necessary. My niece was keen that drawer handles would not be seen, and I have done my best to make them unobtrusive. Together with the desire to avoid drawer handles, there was also the request to make the drawers appear to be a single piece, rather than drawers separated by drawer dividers. The fact is, we had to have drawer dividers. So, to hide them, drawer fronts were given lips, with a lip covering half the width of a divider. In this way, the dividers could double as drawer stops. Making lipped, half-blind dovetails was a first for me. In the end, they were not too bad. The case of the original table is mitred, and this is likely butt jointed and supported with either dowels, biscuits or dominos. My choice was to use mitred through dovetails, both for their strength and also for aesthetics. Although I have done a number of similar cases in recent years, this joint is one where you hold your breath until it all comes together. Then you wonder what the fuss was about A fifth change was the attachment of the legs. The model likely used a metal screw per leg, which was common with Mid Century furniture. I wanted something stronger and durable so, in place of this, my decision was to stake the legs into a thicker base, which was firmly attached to the underside of the case with tapered, stopped sliding dovetails. A bit more work, but I will sleep better at night. At the end of the day, it resembles a box, and only a woodworker will recognise that it is a very complex box. Okay, here it is. It is photographed in my entrance hall .... The wood is fiddleback (curly) Jarrah. A close up the waterfall on one side ... ... and on the other ... The obligatory dovetail shot ... Those drawers! The lipped drawer fronts are 20mm, with the drawer sides 1/4". The back is 15mm thick. The thin sides necessitated drawer slips. These were beaded to create a transition from slip to drawer bottom. The drawer bottoms are 1/4". The wood used here is Tasmanian Oak. Since the case and internals are build from hard Jarrah, the underside of the slips was given a Jarrah slide to improve ware properties. As mentioned earlier, the aim was to present a single board at the front ... Here may be seen how the lips share the drawer divider and use it as a drawer stop. The spacers at the side of the case are half the width of the dividers as they do not share two drawers. Now those drawer handles ... I tried to keep the design as simple as possible, and used the same wood as the drawer fronts so they would blend in. The upper drawer shows the finger grip on underside of the handle ... Drawer extension is good - about 80-85 percent ... The internal bevels around the case ... ... maintained a straight edge to the drawer line. Plus the gap between the drawers (about 0.5mm) ... Near-to-last, the case back: this is made from the same Jarrah - one never knows if the piece will end up against a wall or out in the open. Someone will ask if the brass screws were clocked ... of course they were! And a final photo to provide some scale. This is taken with a chair I built a few years ago ... Thanks for coming along for the ride. Regards from Perth Derek
  11. Today I completed the second and third drawer fronts ... Since I had only come across one article on making the lipped drawers - and that predominantly used power tools - and failed to find a single video on the topic, I decided to make one myself: This is a real-time video - no editing. So skip the parts as they bore you. Hopefully some of it will amuse. Or watch at bedtime if you are insomniac Regards from Perth Derek
  12. This is the part where we begin building one-piece lipped drawers (as contrasted with applied fronts). In preparing for this part of the build, my research uncovered exactly one article on dovetailing lipped drawer fronts. This is by Christian Becksvoort in Fine Woodworking magazine (#263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue). Interesting that. Why lipped drawer fronts? Simply because the three drawers must run continuously across the front, without a gap between them. The lipped sides will wrap around the drawer dividers, and these will double as drawer stops. This will be illustrated in a short while. The lipped ends create a challenge to form the pins/sockets for the tailed drawer sides since it becomes difficult to saw. I have a novel solution We begin by marking where the lipped sides will be. This is knifed in through from the rear of the case ... The marks are knifed with a cutting gauge. The distance from the edge is exactly the same for each board - 6mm. The side spacers are 6mm wide and the two central drawer dividers are 12mm thick, of which each lip is half this thickness. The drawer front is rebated with a moving filletster plane ... With both sides rebated, the centre must fit snuggly between the drawer dividers ... ... and leave exactly half of the dividers remaining ... Side-by-side, perfect fit ... The rebates are fine-tuned with a cutting gauge, ensuring that they are even and square ... This measure is transferred to the drawer side ... I took the time to lay out the dovetails on a scrap as a template. This saves a lot of repeated layouts ... Tails done ... The tail board with be placed here, but with the lip extending past ... This is what it would look like if dovetailed ... To make it easier to see what I am sawing, I am using blue tape ... Transferring the tails to the pin board is made a little easier as the rebate is a handy stop .. Marked out produces this ... And that is where it stops being straight forward as this is as much as it is possible to saw inside the lines ... I decided that, if I could not saw it, I would chop it. This gives new meaning to "chopping dovetails" The pin board is clamped (to avoid any splitting), and the kerfing chisel is used to deepen the existing half-kerf, and then extend it across the socket ... Now the waste is chopped out ... This picture of a fishtail chisel cleaning the corner of the socket is for bill Does it fit? Oh, the suspense! Two more to go. Regards from Perth Derek
  13. They are NOS ... new old stock. Not current or modern production. Regards from Perth Derek
  14. Okay, so I decided that the wood screws were a mistake. They would prevent movement rather than permit it. So they had to go. This is the exchange screw: a 12 gauge stainless steel wood/metal screw with an all-important flat/domed head. The plan was to use a 3/4" forstner bit. This would leave a wide, flat area for the screw head to move along. The range of movement would be the same as before, about 2mm each side of the screw. A MDF template was made to guide the forstner bit, as it had no support in view of the existing hole ... Drilled to depth ... A steel washer added ... Done ... I had only 15 minutes after work today, but on the weekend, when I get back to this build, I plan to add a third screw behind the front leg. Regards from Perth Derek
  15. The process of attaching of the legs was completed by the addition of two screws in the sliding dovetail base. Why add screws? The screws are not to prevent the base sliding back (an elongated hole actually encourages this). It is just to prevent the base twisting in, and breaking out of, the socket since there is no glue there to prevent any lateral movement. The force comes from the splayed and angled legs. They will want to cant outward, and this becomes more so when the three drawers are filled and a vase of flowers is placed on the top of the table. I thought that it is worth mentioning the screws used and how they were inserted. The screws are 1" long brass tapered wood screws. The drill bits are also tapered to match. These ones include a countersink and depth stop. The plan is to drill the hole for the screw through the base and into the case, and then widen the hole in the base. This will permit the base to move with expansion and contraction. In this case 2mm each way. A wider drill bit (and depth stop) .. Before inserting a screw, especially brass screws, they are dipped in a little wax. This is wax for lubricating bandsaw blades ... Here is the widened hole ... The gap around the screw ... The second screw is on the other side of the leg. This is positioned about half way between the end screw and the glued toe. Regards from Perth Derek
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