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Found 39 results

  1. Not much else going on in the shop....thought I'd try a few ideas out. Was getting boring doing finger joints, anyway.. Laid out some more blanks, to make a box for a Stanley No. 18.. Should be enough. A little bit rough.... We have ways... Takes awhile, when you get see-through shavings..Then rounded up the Usual Suspects... Toys? Seems to fit the scale of the parts, better..pins first.. Yes, I used that toy knife. Was getting ready to trim to the baseline....then used these pins to lay out the tails.. And cut and chop them....repeat for the other corner... Then made sure the plane would still fit in the box. Other end can wait for a bit....Set up the Stanley 45 With the skinniest cutter they made for this plane....can't even use the sliding skate.... Used a pair of "holdfasts"...time to get groovy.. Both of the long sides got a groove along the top edge....and the end even got a stopped groove The "lid" was test fitted.. Needed to bevel 3 edges...once I had the width and length figured out....Stanley #110 was still being put to work...more test fits... Needed this to size the other end panel...as it will also provide a handle... Big piece will get dovetailed in place, the other will get a rebate, and glued to the lid. Bottom will get glued to the bottom of the box. May turn the lid into a Raised panel looking thing... Well, it is a start...stay tuned
  2. I was going through my computer today, trying to organize the photos and came across these photos of a project that I had done awhile back. There's more photos somewhere but these were the ones that I can found/share. This project started with a view of a "Chippendale Bible Box" in Yale's American Furniture collection. I has some smaller pieces of walnut and though that I could use them to duplicate this chest(photo #1). Here's the results...... my only regret is that I didn't match the front board very well! Everything was hand planed down during the assembly and the dovetails are all hand cut(the only way I do it).
  3. I don't care how old this chest is, it's been refinished, retrofitted with non original hardware, and it has no legacy, nothing, nada. This guy is kidding right? That being said, you don't need lineage or legacy for a historical piece to be of value, furniture can be graded by other means, but this piece has no other means, not even the original finish. This chest is nearly 300 years old, pine would have a much deeper amber patina to it with that amount of time behind it. So either two things are happening here: He sanded it down before refinishing, in which case the piece is worthless. He Found a chest that is much later than originally thought in age. If you look at the darker spots where dings and nicks have formed, they are left virtually black in color, indicating the surface was completely sanded, leaving behind the darker nicks below the sanded surface. This may have been a great piece, until the refinishing took place. Then this fellow goes and adds hardware to it in the form of a chain or something to that fact. I am not a furniture historian by any means, but things just don't add up. Here is the $68,000 eBay link
  4. Many of my projects involve bow fronts, which result in compound angle dovetails ... I do enjoy building furniture with dovetailing challenges. Between furniture pieces, I find time to build a new tool. This time it is the Moxon dovetail vise I have been promising myself for a while. My first and only one was built in early 2011, after Chris Schwarz helped put it on the map. I immediately modified this design, and have been making modifications since. (Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html This new Moxon incorporates the best ideas. Ironically, this design is not geared for compound angles. I decided to heed my own advice and keep it as simple as possible, and cater for the 90% of the dovetailing that is likely to be done. The width of the vise is narrower than my previous one, but capable of 450mm (17 3/4")between the screws. Most cases I built are between 350 - 450mm deep. My previous Moxon could do 560mm (22") between the screws. This is unnecessary, and just makes for a very large fixture. Where the old Moxon used wooden screws, which I turned, this uses steel Acme screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted ... except that these came via Tom Bussey (thanks Tom), which amounted to a large savings. The wheels are 5" in diameter on a 3/4" screw. The front chop is 5 1/2" high, and the Moxon is built in Jarrah ... what else do you expect! I went a little OTT in this build, but it was fun, and I admit I did become a little carried away Brass inlay ... The chop runs on bronze bushings ... Lining the inside of the vise is rubberised cork. This makes a great non-slip (not my idea - this comes from BenchCrafted, who call it "crubber". Simply search eBay for "cork rubber"). This vise is a good height for sawing ... There are a few innovations. The rear of the vise ... This is a spacer, and it can be locked into the up position ... The spacer has two functions. The first is setting the pin board (10mm) above the chop to prevent scoring the chop when transferring tails to pins with a knife (this is more of a danger with through dovetails). Also, by lifting the work, there will be light behind the pin board, and this makes it easier to align the edges. The crubber makes a great non-slip. The spacer may be dropped out of the way, once the height is set ... The second use of the spacer is that it has a sliding dovetail at the top, and this allows for the use of MicroJig clamps. This would be especially useful for holding wide boards, or tail board which have developed a slight bow ... I have used this on other fixtures, such as a morticing jig. For aligning the tail- and pin boards, I prefer a simple wide square I made from wood ... The spacer needs to be dropped out of the way for this ... Once transfer is made, reverse the board and saw the pins. This is where you will recognise that the cove is not simply decoration, but allows the saw to angle and get closer to the work piece. The lower the work piece in the vise, the less vibration when sawing ... And thats it ... the last moxon dovetail vise ... Regards from Perth Derek
  5. In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled. With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ... However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ... Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful. Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything. Let's take it from the beginning: Step 1: saw the pins ... Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ... Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler! The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!). The jig This turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide. I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths. To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ... Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ... This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ... Let's talk about the router. This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use. The base The base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher. There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet. Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ... This is the underside ... Plans for anyone looking to make their own ... Setting up Step 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides. Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ... The result The router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ... Turn the board around to chisel out the waste .. Order of waste removal First lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ... Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ... Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ... A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. Ok..box #2 is started...double and triple checked the saw set up... Trying to cut both boards at the same time, and getting them both in the middle usual luck.. "Missed it by that much, Chief" needed a tad off of one end...then over to the vise.. That #3 was made about 1905, or so..still works. Jointed all the edges until they matched, then Then shoot the end grain until they matched...that is two boards sitting there...laid out all four parts.. And found bar code stickers on a few boards...33 planed those off. Set all but one side piece aside, for now..Dug up the layout toys.. Bevel gauge set to the dovetail angle I use. Combo square and marking gauge set to the thickness of the boards, pencil for marking things up, and something to cut "knife walls" have the board sitting a bit high in the vise, easier to mark things. And, remember to always make where the waste is... Once all the marking out is done, I lower the board down in the vise... Wax up the saw...we have work to do... Just a little bit.. Then set up a chopping station..nothing fancy.. Chop 1/2 way down, and leave a small tab out on the end ( to support things) and then flip the board over That wide pin? ( yes, I do pins first ) is where I hope to split the lid off from the box.. I then use these pins to mark out for the tails...then use the bandsaw to make a few cuts... I use the bandsaw, so I can SEE the cuts better, and stay on the waste side of the lines. The more of each line I leave, the tighter the joint should be..cchopped the waste out, and tried a dry fit.. been awhile, might be out of practice? Ok...rinse, repeat...and get corner #2 done the same way... So, two corners done, 2 to go...then Uncle Charles hit...left hand cramped up, and the back of the knees....guess it be quitting time, in the shop. About 2 hours, in two sessions, today. Stay tuned...
  7. Hmmm...do mine a bit differently.....no fancy jigs to build, nor fancy router bases to make... Did have to buy some goggles. I guess the vise could be called a jig... two lines, one for the dovetails themselves (base line?) the other sets where the base of the router is to stop....clamp the drawer front with the second line right at the top of the jaws.. I can either mark out the layout of the pins, or..just use the MK 1 eyeball, sighting down. Remove this from the vise, clamp to the bench top.. Hammer and chisel to clean up...use these pins to layout the tails... A few bandsaw cuts, cutting on the waste side of the lines ( more layout line you leave, the tighter the fit will be) After a glue up, and before things are planed smooth.... When there are a bunch to do....plus all the rest of the joints and grooves to make....less time building jigs = more time to build drawers... Of course, IF you feel you NEED all them fancy jigs.....
  8. I guess it is overdue that I posted some pictures of my builds. Critique is always welcomed, as I like to learn from experience. The most recent piece is this, The Harlequin Table, which is a side table I built for my wife ... The case is Hard Maple from the USA. The drawer fronts are Black Walnut, figured Hard Maple, and pink Jarrah (hence the name, Harlequin). The drawer sides are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, and the drawer bottoms/slips were made from Tasmanian Blue Gum. Finish was, initially, two coats of dewaxed UBeaut Hard White Shellac (the very faint amber adds a little warmth), followed by three coats of General Finishes water-based poly (this remains clear - does not yellow the maple - and appears to have some UV protection. It is hard wearing, which is necessary for a side table). The build features mitred, rounded dovetails and bow front and back. Eight drawers featuring compound dovetailing to match the bow front. Drawers are traditional half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the rear, with drawer bottoms into slips. About 2 months to build, mainly on weekends. Here is the rear of the table (which will be seen through the windows, which run floor-to-ceiling along the family room ... The pulls were shaped from what-I-believe-to-be-some-type-of Ebony ... The obligatory dovetails ... Do you think that anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? A last look ... Details of the build are on my website. Scan down this page to Harlequin Table: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/index.html Regards from Perth Derek
  9. steven newman

    PIP, drawer details

    From the album: Pine Chester Drawers

    before the stain. details in the corner, and the drawer dovetails
  10. Interesting article on cutting through dovetails. Tails first process. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/editors-blog/how-to-make-through-dovetails/?k=O5aSyEQDrOJ71MtJucCkmub0UnqR%2BIUKrY3UU4gftQ8%3D&utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=pww-rfa-nl-190106&cid=DM95690&bid=956688930
  11. steven newman


    From the album: Microwave Stand

    Fancy, hand-cut Dovetail joint, for the front of the drawer.
  12. From the album: Glenn Davis

    Details showing dovetailed case joinery and keyed waist moulding
  13. From the album: Glenn Davis

    Sliding Dovetail Shelves, Dovetailed case, Sliding Dovetail Keyed Mldgs, Mortise and Tenon Doors, and Repro Antique German Glass Maple bookmatched frame and panel back
  14. Ok, Vacay is over, time to make a bit of sawdust....maybe. Had a few Poplar boards sitting around, taking up space in the shop.. Not quite all the same sizes...little rough around the edges, too. Bandsaw to remove some of the excess stuff.. Will need a bit more done to these, to make something like this.. Maybe square the ends, thin board for a bottom panel....maybe some dovetails to connect things.... Yes, I do pins first. Just easier for me that way. I had to use the mitre box to square the ends, first. And a #4 plane to smooth the edges. Got out a few toys.. Er..tools. Some for lay out work, some to make sawdust and chips....went to get the shop stool ready to go... Picked it up from one spot, when I set it down, the welds on the legs broke...guess I need a new stool...for now, I have to work standing up....grrr Edges were jointed, before I went too far along...I think.. 1/4mile of wood means a 1/4 mile of plane, don't need those huge planes for this. As for saw work, when I sit down to saw.. I am looking straight ahead, and can follow the lines....when I am standing up, I have to lean over a bit, to see where I am cutting....which makes the saw lean as well...good thing I always cut leaving the lines. Meh....next two sets, I kept a thumb right beside the saw plate, keeping it from any leaning. Got both ends sawn, time to chop a bit I have a 2 x 6 Maple Chopping Block. Chop 1/2 way down, flip over, chop the rest....repeat for the other end. Managed to lay out saw and chop one more set of pins.....then lay out a fourth set.....legs were cramping up...about time to call it a day. Maybe tomorrow, I can get the fourth set done, then layout all the tails, and get those done. Then some grooves made, with the Stanley 45? Stay tuned, I might even try something different for this lid....
  15. Trying to get a drawer box together today. My dovetail jig is so frustratingly complex, I'm ready to toss it. Finally figured it out with the help of the manual, class notes, personal notes based on the three days it took me to figure it out. So I decided, what the heck, I should just brush off and hand cut the dovetails. Figured out the dimensions and got the wood cut. Got all 4 corners done (last one went a lot faster and better than the first). Then I realized I did not allow enough height allowance. No problem, trim 1/8" off the top and bottom of each side. D'oh, er, just sawed off the orientation marks. Ok, there's only 2n ways they can go. Sat down and got that recalculated. Glued and squared them up. Then realized they were going to be too wide as I'd measured the wrong clearance. Oh well, I got some hand-cutting practice in. Time to hang up the apron for the day.
  16. From the album: Pine Bedside Table

    Showing the opened drawer ( that WORKS!) and the hand cut half-blind dovetails
  17. Found a location to stash those "extra" chisels in... Located under the bench, in fact. Right about there. Had a 1 x 10 x 8' I can cut down, and a few scraps of stuff....Resaw a few crosscuts, and make a few parts.. One front and two sides for a second drawer, will add the fancy overlay front later. The rest are four corner posts, and that "square" block is actually 8 rails for the two sides. Chop a few dovetails, again.. Then do the other corner Which left a lot of grooves to make with the Stanley #45, again...except this time... I decided to cut a few elsewhere. The sides will be joined in a frame and panel sort of thing. Needed a groove all around to house the plywoodsides, and the rails Needed to be 1/2" deep. Takes a while. Need to do the four corner posts like this, then shift the jig to do 8 rails. The shift again to plough the grooves for the drawer's bottom panel. Jigs needed pilot holes...but for some reason, my thumb thought it needed one too. Will get back to "ploughing" after supper.....might take awhile to do...stay tuned to this batty channel...
  18. Well, sorted through that pile of Orphans, re moved the chisels and the screwdrivers, and was left with this..pile.. Hmm, got almost than many upstairs, The Stanley #70 is just along for the ride...thought I make a tote that would fit inside Drawer #4. Nothing real fancy, just use up the big scraps.. Started with these two. Earlier, they were just the cut-offs from the 1xs from the drawer builds. random angle, whatever looked good. I was going to use this other board for the bottom... But...plans got changed, somewhere down the line....as this wasn't going to work with these.. Dovetails into edge grain...do not work. Cut the mess off, re-located them to an end grain side. Bottom board now became the side of the tote. But, I only had ONE long board....I did have a 1x2 about the right length. Made a notch to house it, and a screw and glue to hold it. Sized some plywood scraps to fit.. Plywood is glued and nailed in place, ends are glued up. Will let this mess sit overnight, and then see about a handle, and MAYBE a divider or two... Trying to "whittle down" that pile of scraps...stay tuned for part two.
  19. Well, went past the Home Depot on the way home, thought I could get enough lumber for the drawers......Gold Plated Pine meant I could only get enough for three drawers. Got the lumber home, and into the shop....about wore me out. Thought I'd leave them until morning.....nope. Went back down to the shop, measured for a few crosscuts. Since I was still a bit worn out, I didn't get down a handsaw.. 6-1/2" Skil saw will work nicely. Got a front, a back, and a pair of sides cut out....had just under a foot of scrap left.....and then I went back upstairs...thinking I was done.... Got to thinking( dangerous, I know) that I had a somewhat "better" saw to cut dovetails with. Needed to "test" it out. Went back done to the shop. Laid out some dovetail pins....saw worked nicely, nice perfect, but it is sharp. Got out the chisels, thinking I could have them set up for in the morning....Nope. I went ahead and chopped the pins.....which led to the tails being marked out and done...next thing I know.. I have this sitting on my bench, the same bench I had earlier cleaned off. This is the "side" view, and the front view? Before I left for the last time, I made a few marks, to tell me which was which.. The "T" is to show which edge goes up. Usual "in" and other marks. At least I'll know where to plough a groove at....Maybe after a decent night's sleep, I can build the rest of these?
  20. Well, managed to sneak back to the shop for a bit. Finished those dovetails. Remembered to make the pins first, this time. Needed to clamp all four sides up, as if they were glued up.. Yep,almost square, too. Needed this to size the panel.. Width was ok, it was the length I needed to be set. Trimmed the excess off the end, and started to lay out some lines.... 1" in from the edge. And another line.. 1/4" up from the underside. Paul Sellers uses this method to make a raised panel. While he' d leave the panel like this, I don't. Easier to lay it flat on the bench. We do use about the same tool to do the job.. A Stanley #4. I go at the diagonal to the end grain, until both lines are gone. Makes a nice bevel. I then repeat for the other end grain... This way, any tear out will get planed off during the next step. Repeat with the marks, this time along the edges. I can go along the grain on these. When there is a nice diagonal line at the corners, where the bevels meet, I should be about done.. This needs a little more done to the end grain side. I can stand the panel up in the vise, and use just a block plane to finesse the corners. I also add a hint of back bevel from the bottom. Laid the panel on the frame, again.. Not the prettiest gal at the dance? I was checking to make sure I had enough to fit into a groove I need to mill next. I set up a plane for that job.. Stanley #45, again. Set up for a 1/4" x 1/4" groove. Need to bring my drill/driver down to the shop, and build a jig, first. Maybe tomorrow? Been a rather busy day. Panel will set down about 1/4" or so, below the edge of the top. . Stay tuned to this "Batty Channel" Same Bat-time......
  21. Ok, kind of a "part 2" to that long thread. Camera still has issues, but I think Santa might get one for me...someday. Dovetails? Well, we did a few today Once I got the pins done, I could use them to lay out the tails Pencil to make the marks, then bandsaw to saw on the waste side. Quicker and I can see what side of a line I'm on. Test fitting as I went. BTW, waste was usually just chopped out with a chisel. Will fine tune all four corners..Tomorrow. Checked things with a square, too, Doesn't take all that long to do these things, either....finally got all four done.. I'd got this far earlier today, when the camera went dead. Came back down after the camera had charged back up. Time to clear the deck....set the frame over on the lid panel.... Both will need a bit more work. Rigged up a jig.. That big old "B" tells me that is the bottom of the side. I went through and labeled all four this way, while they were assembled. Joint numbers were marked at the top, too. Why the jig? Well, I had a Stanley #45 to use. It was still set up from the last job. Long rods, cam rest, wider cutter..all went back into the case. Short rods, and a 1/4" cutter was installed.. They are a PITA to set up, but once they are, they work very nicely..IF you don't set it too deep. Candle wax was rubbed onto the skates and the fence,,,and away we go.. Could have not used the second skate, but it balances better with it. I start at the far end and work backwards until the depth stop rides the full length. And this is what usually happens Screw is there to lock things into the jig. I wasn't always going with the grain on this.. But I can make curlies. I checked to make sure this grooves lined up as I went around the box.. Not too bad. Better than what I used to get with the router table.. So, all four sides are grooved and things match up, bench is still cleared off... And...this is as clean as it gets. Maybe tomorrow, I can fine tune the dovetails? Need to go and buy a 1/4" plywood bottom piece. All out of the thin stuff. Once I get the sides tuned up, I can cut the bottom panel to size, and maybe do a glue up? Right now, just a bit tuckered out...
  22. There are a few folks around here that have probably figured out that I like to seek the rust! And, it seems that most of my time in the shop is spent cleaning and tuning that rusty gold. But, the reason that I started the rust hunting in the first place was to build up a good set of hand woodworking tools and ultimately learn some of the hand joinery techniques for myself. That said, this summer I put together an 8 inch back saw that I thought could become a dovetailing saw for me but never finished the sharpening. I got home today with a little time to spare and decided that it is high time I cut some wood so I clamped up that small backsaw, filed it rip cut, got out my sweetheart marking gauge and a few other tools and took a crack at some practice dovetails. I did not do any layout of the pins, just eyeballed and cut one side, transposed the marks from one side to the other and cut the second half. I guess That my mission was to see if I could get a set of these to work. I am pleased with the results on this first attempt. With some practice, I am confident I can get this mastered, after which, I hope to make some boxes for the shop. Thought I would share that I sometimes do stop brushing rust and actually cut some wood!
  23. I keep forgeting that rule... Could NOT find my stash of slotted, brass screws....had to go to Lowes to BUY a few....solid brass? more like gold plated...$1.24 for a pack of......3? #8 x 3/4" round head screws. Bought three packs. saved 10% when I showed off my Mil. ID card.....whopp...eee. Kind of set the mood for the rest of the evening. There IS a shop stool in the shop, so I tried to make some use out of it.. Had to make a simple jig to hold thing still long enough to work it over.. Thin piece of pine. Added those screws, cracked the pine....one of them nights. marked the last leg for a dovetail... Knife wall to keep the saw from wandering off on it's own.... Chisel to excavate the waste. Flip the leg over...move the jig to match. Repeat and rinse.. Tried the 1" x 30" beltsander for a bit....brand new belt, too....rounding over all three legs....or tried to...Belt was a bit TOO aggressive, sooo, back to the old standby Then the palm sander to smooth things out. I also needed to dig out one more socket.. First, I needed a flat spot. handsaw to cut a stopline. tried to chisel the spot.....grain was running the wrong way, so I merely went straight across with the little plane. Had to move that jig a bit, to hold the post a bit better.....meh.. Thin jig to hold one end down, piece of pine to hold the other end up. traced the outline of the pin, carried a couple lines over and then up the post. Knife, backsaw and chisels, just to get a start "Hide yer eyes,Mable, this is getting ugly" Stubborn Olde Mick, just kept going... Well, at least it can stand up on it's own three feet. Now things went downhill....the batten? My LARGEST Forstner bit was still a 1/8" too small.. Had to chisel away the excess. Then I had to adjust the size of the collar, just to get it to seat into the batten....Cut two wedges.....Needed some glue......after going back upstairs to retrieve said bottle of Elmer's....started to drive the wedges home.....CRACK? wedge was a hair to much. Dug fatso out of the kerf. Clamped the batten to the post... Added a pine scrap to help out. had to fight the clamp into place and tighten down as far as I could. ( be my luck, that piece of pine will be glued in place) Spread some glue on some dovetails, and banged them home as well.. A bit sloppy with the glue, letting it run down and out. Will clean the mess up tomorrow. Fill a few gaps. And see about adding the top? And...NO, I dinna leave that sitting there like that, the way the evening went, it would have fallen to the floor , as soon as I turned me back. It is now laying on it's side, safely. Not he best day I've had in the shop. Might stay tuned, anyway, as hopefully this is almost done. Just something for a lamp and a phone to sit on...
  24. Worked for a little bit this morning, waiting on my helper to finally get up out of bed...Camera died, too. Took the van to my Mom's place, where we could work on it inside, out of the thunderstorms.....Tasks? Front and rear brake pads needed changed, tires rotated. After all of that, then come home and do a bit more wood work... That front wheel is a perfect fit. Legs are now all the same thickness, saw marks are gone, curves look better... Layout tools to mark a dovetail.... Carried a few lines done the sides, gathered a few other tools Knifeline cutter, chisels, chisel pusher....somewhere there is a #4 backsaw. Backsaw the line. Down to the other line.. Chisel away the waste. Repeat for the other side. Use this to lay out a spot on the leg Just a matter of saw the sides, and chisel out the waste. checking for fit.. Not too hateful.....repeat all those steps again for the next leg. Sometimes, things get a bit squirrelly.. Needed to add a couple pieces to help hold this thing sting. You can see the saw lines, and where I dug out an escape hole. More chop and fit, test fit, and chop some more. I also planed a "flat" where the legs will go. Finally got #2 to fit.. two down, one to go. Maybe tomorrow I can get the third one fitted? I also cut out a slat, for attaching the column to the top.. It might be a pattern for a better one, later. Right now/ I am plain tuckered out. I intend to just sit here on my foundation and have a tall glass of ice and lemonade....stay tuned..
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