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Found 35 results

  1. Hmmm...do mine a bit differently.....no fancy jigs to build, nor fancy router bases to make... Did have to buy some goggles. I guess the vise could be called a jig... two lines, one for the dovetails themselves (base line?) the other sets where the base of the router is to stop....clamp the drawer front with the second line right at the top of the jaws.. I can either mark out the layout of the pins, or..just use the MK 1 eyeball, sighting down. Remove this from the vise, clamp to the bench top.. Hammer and chisel to clean up...use these pins to layout the tails... A few bandsaw cuts, cutting on the waste side of the lines ( more layout line you leave, the tighter the fit will be) After a glue up, and before things are planed smooth.... When there are a bunch to do....plus all the rest of the joints and grooves to make....less time building jigs = more time to build drawers... Of course, IF you feel you NEED all them fancy jigs.....
  2. In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled. With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ... However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ... Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful. Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything. Let's take it from the beginning: Step 1: saw the pins ... Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ... Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler! The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!). The jig This turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide. I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths. To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ... Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ... This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ... Let's talk about the router. This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use. The base The base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher. There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet. Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ... This is the underside ... Plans for anyone looking to make their own ... Setting up Step 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides. Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ... The result The router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ... Turn the board around to chisel out the waste .. Order of waste removal First lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ... Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ... Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ... A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket. Regards from Perth Derek
  3. I guess it is overdue that I posted some pictures of my builds. Critique is always welcomed, as I like to learn from experience. The most recent piece is this, The Harlequin Table, which is a side table I built for my wife ... The case is Hard Maple from the USA. The drawer fronts are Black Walnut, figured Hard Maple, and pink Jarrah (hence the name, Harlequin). The drawer sides are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, and the drawer bottoms/slips were made from Tasmanian Blue Gum. Finish was, initially, two coats of dewaxed UBeaut Hard White Shellac (the very faint amber adds a little warmth), followed by three coats of General Finishes water-based poly (this remains clear - does not yellow the maple - and appears to have some UV protection. It is hard wearing, which is necessary for a side table). The build features mitred, rounded dovetails and bow front and back. Eight drawers featuring compound dovetailing to match the bow front. Drawers are traditional half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the rear, with drawer bottoms into slips. About 2 months to build, mainly on weekends. Here is the rear of the table (which will be seen through the windows, which run floor-to-ceiling along the family room ... The pulls were shaped from what-I-believe-to-be-some-type-of Ebony ... The obligatory dovetails ... Do you think that anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? A last look ... Details of the build are on my website. Scan down this page to Harlequin Table: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/index.html Regards from Perth Derek
  4. steven newman

    PIP, drawer details

    From the album: Pine Chester Drawers

    before the stain. details in the corner, and the drawer dovetails
  5. Interesting article on cutting through dovetails. Tails first process. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/editors-blog/how-to-make-through-dovetails/?k=O5aSyEQDrOJ71MtJucCkmub0UnqR%2BIUKrY3UU4gftQ8%3D&utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=pww-rfa-nl-190106&cid=DM95690&bid=956688930
  6. steven newman

    dovetails

    From the album: Microwave Stand

    Fancy, hand-cut Dovetail joint, for the front of the drawer.
  7. From the album: Glenn Davis

    Details showing dovetailed case joinery and keyed waist moulding
  8. From the album: Glenn Davis

    Sliding Dovetail Shelves, Dovetailed case, Sliding Dovetail Keyed Mldgs, Mortise and Tenon Doors, and Repro Antique German Glass Maple bookmatched frame and panel back
  9. Ok, Vacay is over, time to make a bit of sawdust....maybe. Had a few Poplar boards sitting around, taking up space in the shop.. Not quite all the same sizes...little rough around the edges, too. Bandsaw to remove some of the excess stuff.. Will need a bit more done to these, to make something like this.. Maybe square the ends, thin board for a bottom panel....maybe some dovetails to connect things.... Yes, I do pins first. Just easier for me that way. I had to use the mitre box to square the ends, first. And a #4 plane to smooth the edges. Got out a few toys.. Er..tools. Some for lay out work, some to make sawdust and chips....went to get the shop stool ready to go... Picked it up from one spot, when I set it down, the welds on the legs broke...guess I need a new stool...for now, I have to work standing up....grrr Edges were jointed, before I went too far along...I think.. 1/4mile of wood means a 1/4 mile of plane, don't need those huge planes for this. As for saw work, when I sit down to saw.. I am looking straight ahead, and can follow the lines....when I am standing up, I have to lean over a bit, to see where I am cutting....which makes the saw lean as well...good thing I always cut leaving the lines. Meh....next two sets, I kept a thumb right beside the saw plate, keeping it from any leaning. Got both ends sawn, time to chop a bit I have a 2 x 6 Maple Chopping Block. Chop 1/2 way down, flip over, chop the rest....repeat for the other end. Managed to lay out saw and chop one more set of pins.....then lay out a fourth set.....legs were cramping up...about time to call it a day. Maybe tomorrow, I can get the fourth set done, then layout all the tails, and get those done. Then some grooves made, with the Stanley 45? Stay tuned, I might even try something different for this lid....
  10. Trying to get a drawer box together today. My dovetail jig is so frustratingly complex, I'm ready to toss it. Finally figured it out with the help of the manual, class notes, personal notes based on the three days it took me to figure it out. So I decided, what the heck, I should just brush off and hand cut the dovetails. Figured out the dimensions and got the wood cut. Got all 4 corners done (last one went a lot faster and better than the first). Then I realized I did not allow enough height allowance. No problem, trim 1/8" off the top and bottom of each side. D'oh, er, just sawed off the orientation marks. Ok, there's only 2n ways they can go. Sat down and got that recalculated. Glued and squared them up. Then realized they were going to be too wide as I'd measured the wrong clearance. Oh well, I got some hand-cutting practice in. Time to hang up the apron for the day.
  11. From the album: Pine Bedside Table

    Showing the opened drawer ( that WORKS!) and the hand cut half-blind dovetails
  12. Found a location to stash those "extra" chisels in... Located under the bench, in fact. Right about there. Had a 1 x 10 x 8' I can cut down, and a few scraps of stuff....Resaw a few crosscuts, and make a few parts.. One front and two sides for a second drawer, will add the fancy overlay front later. The rest are four corner posts, and that "square" block is actually 8 rails for the two sides. Chop a few dovetails, again.. Then do the other corner Which left a lot of grooves to make with the Stanley #45, again...except this time... I decided to cut a few elsewhere. The sides will be joined in a frame and panel sort of thing. Needed a groove all around to house the plywoodsides, and the rails Needed to be 1/2" deep. Takes a while. Need to do the four corner posts like this, then shift the jig to do 8 rails. The shift again to plough the grooves for the drawer's bottom panel. Jigs needed pilot holes...but for some reason, my thumb thought it needed one too. Will get back to "ploughing" after supper.....might take awhile to do...stay tuned to this batty channel...
  13. Well, sorted through that pile of Orphans, re moved the chisels and the screwdrivers, and was left with this..pile.. Hmm, got almost than many upstairs, The Stanley #70 is just along for the ride...thought I make a tote that would fit inside Drawer #4. Nothing real fancy, just use up the big scraps.. Started with these two. Earlier, they were just the cut-offs from the 1xs from the drawer builds. random angle, whatever looked good. I was going to use this other board for the bottom... But...plans got changed, somewhere down the line....as this wasn't going to work with these.. Dovetails into edge grain...do not work. Cut the mess off, re-located them to an end grain side. Bottom board now became the side of the tote. But, I only had ONE long board....I did have a 1x2 about the right length. Made a notch to house it, and a screw and glue to hold it. Sized some plywood scraps to fit.. Plywood is glued and nailed in place, ends are glued up. Will let this mess sit overnight, and then see about a handle, and MAYBE a divider or two... Trying to "whittle down" that pile of scraps...stay tuned for part two.
  14. Well, went past the Home Depot on the way home, thought I could get enough lumber for the drawers......Gold Plated Pine meant I could only get enough for three drawers. Got the lumber home, and into the shop....about wore me out. Thought I'd leave them until morning.....nope. Went back down to the shop, measured for a few crosscuts. Since I was still a bit worn out, I didn't get down a handsaw.. 6-1/2" Skil saw will work nicely. Got a front, a back, and a pair of sides cut out....had just under a foot of scrap left.....and then I went back upstairs...thinking I was done.... Got to thinking( dangerous, I know) that I had a somewhat "better" saw to cut dovetails with. Needed to "test" it out. Went back done to the shop. Laid out some dovetail pins....saw worked nicely, nice perfect, but it is sharp. Got out the chisels, thinking I could have them set up for in the morning....Nope. I went ahead and chopped the pins.....which led to the tails being marked out and done...next thing I know.. I have this sitting on my bench, the same bench I had earlier cleaned off. This is the "side" view, and the front view? Before I left for the last time, I made a few marks, to tell me which was which.. The "T" is to show which edge goes up. Usual "in" and other marks. At least I'll know where to plough a groove at....Maybe after a decent night's sleep, I can build the rest of these?
  15. Well, managed to sneak back to the shop for a bit. Finished those dovetails. Remembered to make the pins first, this time. Needed to clamp all four sides up, as if they were glued up.. Yep,almost square, too. Needed this to size the panel.. Width was ok, it was the length I needed to be set. Trimmed the excess off the end, and started to lay out some lines.... 1" in from the edge. And another line.. 1/4" up from the underside. Paul Sellers uses this method to make a raised panel. While he' d leave the panel like this, I don't. Easier to lay it flat on the bench. We do use about the same tool to do the job.. A Stanley #4. I go at the diagonal to the end grain, until both lines are gone. Makes a nice bevel. I then repeat for the other end grain... This way, any tear out will get planed off during the next step. Repeat with the marks, this time along the edges. I can go along the grain on these. When there is a nice diagonal line at the corners, where the bevels meet, I should be about done.. This needs a little more done to the end grain side. I can stand the panel up in the vise, and use just a block plane to finesse the corners. I also add a hint of back bevel from the bottom. Laid the panel on the frame, again.. Not the prettiest gal at the dance? I was checking to make sure I had enough to fit into a groove I need to mill next. I set up a plane for that job.. Stanley #45, again. Set up for a 1/4" x 1/4" groove. Need to bring my drill/driver down to the shop, and build a jig, first. Maybe tomorrow? Been a rather busy day. Panel will set down about 1/4" or so, below the edge of the top. . Stay tuned to this "Batty Channel" Same Bat-time......
  16. Ok, kind of a "part 2" to that long thread. Camera still has issues, but I think Santa might get one for me...someday. Dovetails? Well, we did a few today Once I got the pins done, I could use them to lay out the tails Pencil to make the marks, then bandsaw to saw on the waste side. Quicker and I can see what side of a line I'm on. Test fitting as I went. BTW, waste was usually just chopped out with a chisel. Will fine tune all four corners..Tomorrow. Checked things with a square, too, Doesn't take all that long to do these things, either....finally got all four done.. I'd got this far earlier today, when the camera went dead. Came back down after the camera had charged back up. Time to clear the deck....set the frame over on the lid panel.... Both will need a bit more work. Rigged up a jig.. That big old "B" tells me that is the bottom of the side. I went through and labeled all four this way, while they were assembled. Joint numbers were marked at the top, too. Why the jig? Well, I had a Stanley #45 to use. It was still set up from the last job. Long rods, cam rest, wider cutter..all went back into the case. Short rods, and a 1/4" cutter was installed.. They are a PITA to set up, but once they are, they work very nicely..IF you don't set it too deep. Candle wax was rubbed onto the skates and the fence,,,and away we go.. Could have not used the second skate, but it balances better with it. I start at the far end and work backwards until the depth stop rides the full length. And this is what usually happens Screw is there to lock things into the jig. I wasn't always going with the grain on this.. But I can make curlies. I checked to make sure this grooves lined up as I went around the box.. Not too bad. Better than what I used to get with the router table.. So, all four sides are grooved and things match up, bench is still cleared off... And...this is as clean as it gets. Maybe tomorrow, I can fine tune the dovetails? Need to go and buy a 1/4" plywood bottom piece. All out of the thin stuff. Once I get the sides tuned up, I can cut the bottom panel to size, and maybe do a glue up? Right now, just a bit tuckered out...
  17. There are a few folks around here that have probably figured out that I like to seek the rust! And, it seems that most of my time in the shop is spent cleaning and tuning that rusty gold. But, the reason that I started the rust hunting in the first place was to build up a good set of hand woodworking tools and ultimately learn some of the hand joinery techniques for myself. That said, this summer I put together an 8 inch back saw that I thought could become a dovetailing saw for me but never finished the sharpening. I got home today with a little time to spare and decided that it is high time I cut some wood so I clamped up that small backsaw, filed it rip cut, got out my sweetheart marking gauge and a few other tools and took a crack at some practice dovetails. I did not do any layout of the pins, just eyeballed and cut one side, transposed the marks from one side to the other and cut the second half. I guess That my mission was to see if I could get a set of these to work. I am pleased with the results on this first attempt. With some practice, I am confident I can get this mastered, after which, I hope to make some boxes for the shop. Thought I would share that I sometimes do stop brushing rust and actually cut some wood!
  18. I keep forgeting that rule... Could NOT find my stash of slotted, brass screws....had to go to Lowes to BUY a few....solid brass? more like gold plated...$1.24 for a pack of......3? #8 x 3/4" round head screws. Bought three packs. saved 10% when I showed off my Mil. ID card.....whopp...eee. Kind of set the mood for the rest of the evening. There IS a shop stool in the shop, so I tried to make some use out of it.. Had to make a simple jig to hold thing still long enough to work it over.. Thin piece of pine. Added those screws, cracked the pine....one of them nights. marked the last leg for a dovetail... Knife wall to keep the saw from wandering off on it's own.... Chisel to excavate the waste. Flip the leg over...move the jig to match. Repeat and rinse.. Tried the 1" x 30" beltsander for a bit....brand new belt, too....rounding over all three legs....or tried to...Belt was a bit TOO aggressive, sooo, back to the old standby Then the palm sander to smooth things out. I also needed to dig out one more socket.. First, I needed a flat spot. handsaw to cut a stopline. tried to chisel the spot.....grain was running the wrong way, so I merely went straight across with the little plane. Had to move that jig a bit, to hold the post a bit better.....meh.. Thin jig to hold one end down, piece of pine to hold the other end up. traced the outline of the pin, carried a couple lines over and then up the post. Knife, backsaw and chisels, just to get a start "Hide yer eyes,Mable, this is getting ugly" Stubborn Olde Mick, just kept going... Well, at least it can stand up on it's own three feet. Now things went downhill....the batten? My LARGEST Forstner bit was still a 1/8" too small.. Had to chisel away the excess. Then I had to adjust the size of the collar, just to get it to seat into the batten....Cut two wedges.....Needed some glue......after going back upstairs to retrieve said bottle of Elmer's....started to drive the wedges home.....CRACK? wedge was a hair to much. Dug fatso out of the kerf. Clamped the batten to the post... Added a pine scrap to help out. had to fight the clamp into place and tighten down as far as I could. ( be my luck, that piece of pine will be glued in place) Spread some glue on some dovetails, and banged them home as well.. A bit sloppy with the glue, letting it run down and out. Will clean the mess up tomorrow. Fill a few gaps. And see about adding the top? And...NO, I dinna leave that sitting there like that, the way the evening went, it would have fallen to the floor , as soon as I turned me back. It is now laying on it's side, safely. Not he best day I've had in the shop. Might stay tuned, anyway, as hopefully this is almost done. Just something for a lamp and a phone to sit on...
  19. Worked for a little bit this morning, waiting on my helper to finally get up out of bed...Camera died, too. Took the van to my Mom's place, where we could work on it inside, out of the thunderstorms.....Tasks? Front and rear brake pads needed changed, tires rotated. After all of that, then come home and do a bit more wood work... That front wheel is a perfect fit. Legs are now all the same thickness, saw marks are gone, curves look better... Layout tools to mark a dovetail.... Carried a few lines done the sides, gathered a few other tools Knifeline cutter, chisels, chisel pusher....somewhere there is a #4 backsaw. Backsaw the line. Down to the other line.. Chisel away the waste. Repeat for the other side. Use this to lay out a spot on the leg Just a matter of saw the sides, and chisel out the waste. checking for fit.. Not too hateful.....repeat all those steps again for the next leg. Sometimes, things get a bit squirrelly.. Needed to add a couple pieces to help hold this thing sting. You can see the saw lines, and where I dug out an escape hole. More chop and fit, test fit, and chop some more. I also planed a "flat" where the legs will go. Finally got #2 to fit.. two down, one to go. Maybe tomorrow I can get the third one fitted? I also cut out a slat, for attaching the column to the top.. It might be a pattern for a better one, later. Right now/ I am plain tuckered out. I intend to just sit here on my foundation and have a tall glass of ice and lemonade....stay tuned..
  20. I don't care how old this chest is, it's been refinished, retrofitted with non original hardware, and it has no legacy, nothing, nada. This guy is kidding right? That being said, you don't need lineage or legacy for a historical piece to be of value, furniture can be graded by other means, but this piece has no other means, not even the original finish. This chest is nearly 300 years old, pine would have a much deeper amber patina to it with that amount of time behind it. So either two things are happening here: He sanded it down before refinishing, in which case the piece is worthless. He Found a chest that is much later than originally thought in age. If you look at the darker spots where dings and nicks have formed, they are left virtually black in color, indicating the surface was completely sanded, leaving behind the darker nicks below the sanded surface. This may have been a great piece, until the refinishing took place. Then this fellow goes and adds hardware to it in the form of a chain or something to that fact. I am not a furniture historian by any means, but things just don't add up. Here is the $68,000 eBay link
  21. Think your dovetail and box joints won't come apart? My study of antiques says otherwise. But I have a solution to lock your dovetails and box joints permanently.This is my favorite woodworking tip and technique of all time. I hope you enjoy the video and find it helpful. I am looking forward to hearing feedback on experience and observations of these joints. Your friend in the shop-Todd A. Clippinger
  22. This is a storage bench I made from a tree that one of my brothers cut down at his home. It took me three years to build it, mostly because I'm disabled and have had 11 surgeries in that time with one more on my neck coming up. I had to make the drawer out of white oak because I ran out of wood from the tree. I glued a bunch of scrap oak I had sitting around, I made sure the grain on the front of the drawer matched. I used hand cut dovetails for the drawer. Router cut dovetails for the seat box. I used through tenons on the side and arms of the bench. I also used pegs for the slats to make sure they stay put. I did a lot of hand tool work on this project because I enjoy the more hand on approach. I've been buying more and more hand tools but I do have a Profesional saw stop table saw too. I guess I like to mix it up, I'm glad to finally have this project done. Tomorrow we are having an unveiling party for the bench I hope he likes it. Thank you for reading my ramblings. Jaime
  23. Hmmm, the "plan"? Somedays, I DO have to write things down....wore out the pencil, I did. needed a new tool in the Dungeon Shop, too I can leave this one down in the shop. Ripped a few boards to size.. This was after I'd planed that bevel on the edge. had to match the end pieces.. Yep, two of them, one for each end. Checked for fit... Ok, next up, some sort of joint to connect these parts? Dovetails? Well, tried to find my "normal" saw...MIA, guess the "Cleveland" saw will just have to do.. Cutting tails first....oops, oh well. Normally, I cut pins first, easier to mark out the tails that way, But, I cut the pins second on this corner.. Not the greatest. Put the two halves together, and saw a few gaps.. Ok, let this sit for awhile, need to find the correct saw for this job, and go back to cutting pins first....finally found the wayward saw! Hiding in the shavings under the bench? Cleaned it up and got back to work A clone of a Disston No.4 backsaw, 9ppi, filed rip. Wax theteeth and plate up, we have wood to saw.. Pins all marked. Bevel gauge was set to the angle of the dovetail. I'll saw to the line, just about splitting it. Then those chisels laying there got put to work.. Chop down halfway, then flip over and finish it up. Stand this end up onto the tail board, and mark a few more lines. Take the "tail board" to the bandsaw, sawing to the waste side of the line, leaving the lines. back to the bench, chop out the waste...I even left the lines! Put the two together, didn't even need a mallet! You can even just make out the black pencil lines. Repeat all of this two more times. All four corners are now together? There are some markings going on there? Ah, yes...this tool box will have a center divider. Goes from the middle up and over the peak...laid out for two stopped dados, one on each end Simple to do, dig out the starter hole at the far end, backsaw for the sides, chisel out the 3/8" deep waste. Repeat for the other end. Grab the 1x6 divider board, mark out for the notches, I need it to be a bit above the ends, as the lids will rest against the divider. Test fit all of these parts.. Ok, so far, so good. Now, I need to find the Gumption to do this glue up. Hoping I have enough hands and clamps. Til then, I'll set the box over on the base... Might take a couple Mountain Dews? That beveled scrap laying there? I'll use that to mark the lids. Board on the bottom will get ripped, and beveled to make the lids. It will be beveled at the top and the hinge edge. More hand plane work. I think I had better go rest up....might be a LONG day, tomorrow...
  24. Full on side views, showing the handle's grip, and them handsawn tails. BLO really shows them off
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