18 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

I've never seen an end grain cutting board. Mostly edge grain. Charcuterie boards and, the like are usually only 1/2" or so, thick. I've made some larger ones of 3/4" to 1.5" . Even the thicker ones are too thin for end grain, IMO.  

Besides the small boards we made (above) I think the thinnest end grain 'real' cutting board I've done is about 1.25" but it was 12" square so proportionally it seemed ok.  My preference is to build them 1.5" and thicker.  For edge/face grain I've done a handful at 3/4" and they're still flat.

 

David

Like David I have not had  a warpage problem but I have not done maybe as many as he has. I cannot see ever having a warp develop in a end grain board. Also much less likely the thicker the board and oversize will absolutely affect the outcome but more so for the edge grain. 

 

Flat edge grain boards IMHO will be more like to warp because you are basically dealing with a flat piece of lumber no matter how many pieces are glued together it is still lumber. Problem pieces of wood or storage will impact the stability of a cutting board like this just like a piece of lumber would. 

39 minutes ago, Gerald said:

Like David I have not had  a warpage problem but I have not done maybe as many as he has. I cannot see ever having a warp develop in a end grain board. Also much less likely the thicker the board and oversize will absolutely affect the outcome but more so for the edge grain. 

 

Flat edge grain boards IMHO will be more like to warp because you are basically dealing with a flat piece of lumber no matter how many pieces are glued together it is still lumber. Problem pieces of wood or storage will impact the stability of a cutting board like this just like a piece of lumber would. 

Good to know, thanks for the VOE.

Running the cutting board through my 50" planer... 

 

 

David

i don't have one of those.....

 

45 minutes ago, DAB said:

i don't have one of those.....

 

Me either.  I have yet to win the lottery or have a wealthy relative leave me alot of $$$..  

I built it and in the four years since it's been operational it has paid for itself probably three or four times - not too bad.

 

Here's a wider shot showing the mess this made since I didn't have the dust shoe on for photo and video purposes.  It's rare to see any dust in the shop because I either catch it at the source or clean it up immediately following the use of the offending tool.  With the dust shoe I'm able to collect almost all of the chips and dust.  The trash can on the workbench is temporary and is for converting my dust collector to a two-stage system.

 

 

David

Edited August 25, 20205 yr by difalkner

David that is fantastic. I suggest you look at Dust Deputy either the 5 or 6 inch. It really makes a difference in what drops out before the filter and increases suction. I got mine last year and really saves me trips to the attic to empty that bag. Have a homemade one also and it is still in the line now and a lot still goes there but almost all that gets past it goes into the DD.

 

Cutting the juice groove - 

 

 

David

a quick and cheap (made from what i had in hand) cutting board of maple, cherry, and walnut.  edge and face grain, gift for someone.

 

don't worry, the excess finish got wiped off later on.

Edited August 29, 20205 yr by DAB

I like it a lot. Great job and it looks beautiful.

The cutting board has progressed through the stages but I forgot to post anything about it - oops!  

 

I cut the outer perimeter down to 1" on the CNC (I don't have a bit long enough to cut through 2" of material).  Then used the bandsaw and tablesaw to cut the excess pieces off.

 

Then I used my router table to flush trim the sides - 

 

My drum sander is wide enough to handle this board but the juice groove was causing issues because the pressure rollers tried to dip down when that went through, so I carried the board to my friend's cabinet shop and it took all of about 6 passes to sand this on his wide belt sander - 

 

Then I finished sanding with 120/220/400 and will take it to the laser shop for engraving - 

 

As you can see, this Hard Rock Maple can get really smooth if you take it down to 400 - 

 

David

Fine looking board!

What gunny said "WOW"

A fine looking cutting board!    Danl

We're finally at the point where I'm applying the mineral oil and Beeswax finish.  Got the cutting board laser engraved yesterday and have now put three good coats of mineral oil and let that soak in and am now applying a good, heavy coat of Beeswax with mineral oil (my mixture).  

 

I'll let the Beeswax set for about 4 hours and then wipe off as much as I can, flip it and do the other side.  I'll continue wiping it down until it can go a few hours without seeing any wet spots.  This part could take a couple of days.

 

In the Epilog laser right after engraving (you can go to my Instagram and see the engraving in motion) - 

 

One coat of mineral oil - 

 

Beeswax applied, it's a nice, rich color - 

 

David

5 minutes ago, difalkner said:

We're finally at the point where I'm applying the mineral oil and Beeswax finish.

 

David

Have you tried combining mineral oil and beeswax? You have to heat it but the repeated applications are then moat. However it is still messy.

Yes sir, that's what you're seeing in the photo.  A few years ago I mixed up a decent amount of mineral oil and Beeswax and heated it on the stove top; now I keep the mixture in a sealed container.  When I get ready to use it I take the lid off and nuke it for about a minute, then apply it to the board.

 

David

That's gorgeous!

Three coats of mineral oil with the last being a mineral oil/Beeswax mix.  I let that set for about 6 hours and then buff it with paper towels to get the excess Beeswax off.  The cutting board is left with a rich luster sheen that is velvety smooth.

 

Working side - 

 

Show side - 

 

 

David