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What Frame do I need for my Table Saw Cart

Featured Replies

1 hour ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

A good point and this is where you have to decide on what you want for DCShop DC will be the best bet.  Or you could use a shop vac onboard, you already need power for the saw so this is simple.  My method is pure gravity.  Under each saw is a drawer that the dust and debris collects in, via gravity.  Under each motor is another set of drawers, same deal.  So I do deal with it, but certainly not as efficient as a DC.  I chose to not have a pipe come across the floor anywhere.  Personal preference, by no means the best.  Just works best for me.

 

I know it is a lot of details that are being brought up but this is a good thing for you.  You get to see different methods and ask questions and see detailed pictures to aid you in your design.  This the beauty of starting the project here on the site.  Earlier in the year I started working on a router table / cabinet design and the input I got here, daily, sometimes several different suggestions a day.  All of that input made that project come out way better than my original design.

 

You can read though that post here.  

 

Gunny I agree no 4 inch pipe on the floor and all mine go to ceiling from the tool. Your gravity method is the simplest one but does not allow for over blade collection which is where I saw a lot of my dust coming from before the DC was setup. It may sound undo-able but with the number of times I have rerouted my ducts to learn there is always a way to get there. Sometimes it is convenient and sometime it is not but does collect. YES your saw (s) never cease to amaze me. How about some pics of them in action?

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  • Couple of approaches, you can make a steel angle iron frame for the bottom so the whole thing fits inside and attach your wheels to that.    I made a similar cabinet but for 2 table saws, he

  • Only thing I would not do is use a single piece of plywood for the bottom.  You want the strength of framing under it.  I cut 2x4's in half and that is more than strong enough.  At your size cabinet y

  • Nah, plenty of clearance under the cabinet.  The grey mat has a channel inside that covers where we walk and such keeping it from damage. IF I moved this a lot maybe a different method.  As it has not

Posted Images

3 minutes ago, Gerald said:

How about some pics of them in action?

I have been working on a post for this project.  It was made before I joined last year.  But several people have asked about it so I am organizing the pictures to do a PIP.

 

8 minutes ago, Gerald said:

Your gravity method is the simplest one but does not allow for over blade collection which is where I saw a lot of my dust coming from before the DC was setup.

Very true, and here again gravity works.  The floor seems to catch it all for me to sweep up, sometimes, occasionally.  Okay not very often.:JawDrop:

Gravity and a set like this. Cordless, noiseless and no piping needed.

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Much cheaper also! :TwoThumbsUp:

5 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Gravity and a set like this. Cordless, noiseless and no piping needed.

fd087fba-0666-48e3-83a6-b087378fb988_1.99aa8b6ea4ddb736d995a0b4e51c873c.jpeg.b9b320740c3a3fee43869809aa4b8741.jpeg

 

Maybe but when you see all the dust that stirs up you may change your mind. That is the reason that even with the DC I got a second air cleaner last year.

@Gerald If you have dust allergies (or picky neighbors) then you, for sure, won't want to use my second method. All doors and windows wide open and, the shop vac set to "BLOW". :TwoThumbsUp:The one time I do use a dust mask. 

You'd be amazed at how this method finds lost pencils, screws and other miscellaneous goodies.:rolleyes:

@Gene Howe

Your second method is close to my first method, I move the machine outside and let it fly! :CowboyPistol:

To all if the motor enclosure does not have good airflow the motor may over heat.

The is not an issue in ambient air but if you are cutting for hours on end beware.

For my saw the dust port is on the bottom and air flow creats a down draft table for the saw.

i do not use my saw enough to ever over heat.  But on one ocassion I was ripping some 4" boards down.

The motor with the great air flow from the down draft was warm to the touch but now were near is 90 C limit.

It anything starts to smell hot it is already damaging your equipment.

That smell is the off gasing of the insulation on the wires.

Gunny, I really like your solution as the motors are in free air and the belt slots should be fairly tight to  the belts about 1/8" wiggle room.  That should limit the amount of dust you collect below greatly.

Then as you wrote if you want to do an angled cut just remove the plate around the belt and deal with a little more dust.

 

@Gerald my DC plan is to let the big stuff fall into the top drawer of the cart and connect the DC to the box that surrounds the motor. My DC is a shop vacuum connected to a cyclone. 

3 hours ago, acr_scout said:

@Gerald my DC plan is to let the big stuff fall into the top drawer of the cart and connect the DC to the box that surrounds the motor. My DC is a shop vacuum connected to a cyclone. 

A balance between both worlds, nice.  In my previous TS I had built a drawer underneath the square opening and already had the habit of checking to see how full it was.  If you have not been using this method write a note on some tape and put on the drawer front.  Because while my memory is excellent, the recall button is kinda fussy at times.  :ROFL:

Edited by Woodbutcherbynight

23 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

A balance between both worlds, nice.  In my previous TS I had built a drawer underneath the square opening and already had the habit of checking to see how full it was.  If you have not been using this method write a note on some tape and put on the drawer front.  Because while my memory is excellent, the recall button is kinda fussy at times.  :ROFL:

I understand that. We use the saw dust for dry sweep when we need it.

 

Well things got to be too big for what I could do so I down sized although @Woodbutcherbynight pictures were a huge help in figuring out how to box in the motor nicely. For @Michael Thuman concern about motor heat and airflow, I suspect the DC connected outboard of the motor will pull enough air over the motor to keep it comfortable.

 

 

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Edited by acr_scout
Fixed typos

Your plan is coming along.  If you are TS centric shop, that is this is your main piece of equipment, you want to go all out on the crown jewel so to speak.  Get as many details accounted for before you begin so you spend less time going back, or worse doing without a important item.  You are doing good, keep at the design and refine it.  You want this to be what works best for you.

 

Some suggestions to consider for your latest design.  

 

If you want to hang a router off your side table you need more support for the top.  You can use angled supports from the side of the cabinet or make your base cabinet bigger.  The two blue blocks are areas that you can supply this support and get the bonus of usable space underneath.  This adds mass to the overall cabinet and that helps with stability.  Of course there is give and take on this.  If you plan to move it a lot weight would be a concern.  The wheels in the picture show front to back.  In this configuration when you go to cut a board the table will also move forward in the direction of the cut.  

 

99182654_TSsuggestions.jpg.c1de6aabb6b92d37c1b805a2597b8cec.jpg

 

 

 

Now this last detail is something that I rarely see people consider before making the cabinet.  Where will you put your miter gauge?  Angle meter? Combination square? Wrenches for changing the blade on the saw?  Often they are not close to the saw, and really these items go with the saw, not in a box somewhere else.

 

With some planning you can squeeze in a lot of stuff, but laid out well.  Here is a picture of my insert, it has two combination squares, Angle meter, miter gauge, a small machinist square and a micrometer with a magnetic base.  These are tools I use all the time and so they are close at hand.

 

 0306181303.jpg.397e1354d0459259f72646a291fb4290.jpg

 

These were the plans I started with.

 

plans.JPG.81f5158ccc23be90563f2367d6f8ffa9.JPG

@Woodbutcherbynight I certainly appreciate your input. Thinks I need to think about. I know there is a bunch of "wasted" space but things seem to be getting too heavy. The short wing wasted space is ok, it will fit better into the corner of my garage. I can tuck that wing over the wood stack in the corner and get it out of the way.  You are correct on the long wing where I want to put the router. It is supported front and back by angle iron, but I am worried about dipping in the middle as the router hangs there. I was planning on a honeycomb support once I knew where my router insert was in place.

The out feed table support is killing me right now. I am thinking about angle iron but I am not sure how to support it yet.

 

The wheels are actually swiveling and locking. They are what I am using now. They lock both in the wheel and the swivel so it is super stable. I can get sporting trying to cut down a full sheet of plywood without help. The cart and saw start scooting around. I usually cut things down with my circular saw first.

 

As far a stool storage on the front side there is a normal drawer as well as a vertical drawer. The normal drawer is for this-n-that for the saw. The vertical drawer is for the inserts, blades and wrench.  I don't use my miter gauge much at all. I have a crosscut sled that I use the most of all. I also have a crosscut sled for angles. 

I think about constructing a hollow door type of out feed table with half inch on top and hardboard on the bottom with hardboard honeycomb. Just one thought. The out feed table has to be easily removed to get to the motor. It will come to me, I am sure.   

New Tablesaw Cart55.png

New Tablesaw Cart66.png

Edited by acr_scout
Updated story

Take a look at this design.  Bit different and maybe takes too much space for what you want but it is a different approach with the motor.  Never know might get another idea from this.

 

LINK

2 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Take a look at this design.  Bit different and maybe takes too much space for what you want but it is a different approach with the motor.  Never know might get another idea from this.

 

LINK

That is a great deal like the one I built. Just found a couple pictures of the build. This wheel system is from a Wood plan upon which I expanded to accommodate a larger cabinet. I also used this wheel system on my sanding/planer station.1184268441_TSstandwheels.jpg.a6b234537233d813d21103493eca5efb.jpg

The lever on the left can flip and lower the saw onto fixed supports and it will not move.

95812806_TSstand.jpg.11acf59d236a1e2d08dad3aaf69ab113.jpg

This is the cabinet with the V for dust to go out thru the pipe shown.

1717263189_craftsmants.jpg.2121f36fa766325b2e782fbfbbf517bc.jpg

22 minutes ago, Gerald said:
2 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

That is a great deal like the one I built. Just found a couple pictures of the build.

Nice build.  The thing I like about this is that it is smaller, and has internal DC.  So it you do move it a lot the weight is considerably less.  Also it is a smaller footprint so being mindful of space saving this would be a plus for this design as well.

 

Might have some more ideas or links later this week.  A friends Dad wants to build something like mine and asked me to come up and look over what he has drawn up and where he wants this to go.  Should prove to be a very interesting exchange. 

 

He offered some good cigars, great cooking and some quality alcohol.  I warned my wife I might be back late, very late....  :JawDrop:

@Gerald my DC plan is to let the big stuff fall into the top drawer of the cart and connect the DC to the box that surrounds the motor. My DC is a shop vacuum connected to a cyclone. 

Happy Thanksgiving guys. It's dinner time. 

if you can bolt anything to the back of the saw table, consider some scrapped out bed frames.   people are always throwing away the angle iron stuff...

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