November 29, 20196 yr 7 hours ago, Gerald said: This is the cabinet with the V for dust to go out thru the pipe shown. My wife saw this picture on the computer and commented, "I wonder what his wife said when he took the dresser to the shop."
November 29, 20196 yr @p_toad that is a great idea for resources. My saw already has angle iron on the front and back. I'm trying to figure out how to support the back side of the out feed table.
November 30, 20196 yr 10 hours ago, acr_scout said: @p_toad that is a great idea for resources. My saw already has angle iron on the front and back. I'm trying to figure out how to support the back side of the out feed table. More angle iron - with locking brackets (like for card tables, etc.) to hold them in place when needed.
December 1, 20196 yr 3 minutes ago, BillyJack said: Is this similiar to what your building...off another forum... My friend build a miter station like this, (no wheels) as in out of 2x6 and 12 ft long. He calls me and says I need help getting it picked up off the floor where I put it together.
December 23, 20196 yr Here is the work in progress. It is so heavy now that my wife cannot help me move it around again. The installed drawers is the front of the unit and will be directly below the table saw. The there is a dust shelf between the two drawers. The upper one just rides on the dust shelf and fits the opening just snug. It will be used to capture the saw dust out of the bottom of the saw. The bottom drawer is on full extension ball bearing slides. It will the odd-n-ins for the table saw. I will post more later as it comes along. I am off for the holidays so I hope to get it done.
December 23, 20196 yr Don't know if anyone mentioned it but a really good sturdy outfeed table (hinged to the saw) is a absolute must in my book.
December 24, 20196 yr Fred, just a suggestion for next time. When building drawers using pocket hole construction, put the holes in the front and back drawer panels instead of the sides. When they are on the sides, you see the pocket holes when the draw is open. When they are in the back and front panel, then are hidden. Thanks for the journey. Danl
December 24, 20196 yr 13 minutes ago, Danl said: Fred, just a suggestion for next time. I will offer another suggestion with same idea in mind, for next time. Many don't think much of shop equipment but my idea is that it is great practice for other projects. Edge band the exposed sides of the plywood with a 1/4 inch strip of any wood you like. This will protects and strengthen the sides. You can be creative and use a different color of wood to showcase this effect or just blend it in. The down side of this method is that it expends a lot of time to edge band everything then dry fit. Which is why I go at least 1/4 inch, I have some wiggle room if needed. What you have is good, it will work and last a long time. My suggestion is merely a future consideration for any that might read through this thread. Here is an example of what it might look like. This is a circle cutting jig for my BS, The plywood middle is generic, nothing fancy just run of the mill stuff. The two spots in the back you see were bad knots I drilled out and inserted a plug for. Nothing but me practicing some.
December 24, 20196 yr 49 minutes ago, Gene Howe said: Or, put the holes on the inside. But, for a shop cabinet ???? Yeah I know overkill for a mere shop cabinet. But consider this, it will get more wear as it is a shop fixture the plywood is less than ideal material for this. You also get some experience edge banding, and if desired it is finish ready. Plywood edges are like a sponge for any finish and always look crappy. Lastly for some this is side business. Put in extra time now pays off later. Now me, I am just fussy and like it to look a certain way.
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