I am working on an upgrade to my Sears 113 contractor saw. I have added the Shop Fox fence, new wings (one will be the router table). The latest design is pictured below. For the size and weight what should the bottom frame be (e.g., 2x4. doubled 3/4 plywood)? How many wheels will it need for the length.

 

I am not sold on the design yet but what I want is to cover the motor for dust collection, integrated out-feed table, storage for table saw and router.

 

Thanks for the input.

For the size and weght I would use a mobile base from delta and they have 3 wheels one of which is pivots.

The frame is steel and would have wooden hardwood runners of 2" x 2" and it would be very capable of the weight and dynamics of your project.

 

Thanks Michael for the input but I'm hopeful for wood and neoprene wheels. 

Couple of approaches, you can make a steel angle iron frame for the bottom so the whole thing fits inside and attach your wheels to that. 

 

I made a similar cabinet but for 2 table saws, here are some pictures of the construction I used.  Feel free to ask questions I have more pictures.  The wheels I used are rated at 400 lb each, so 1600 lbs on max weight.  Overkill perhaps but the cost was nothing compared to piece of mind.  Mine measures 70 inches wide and 46 inches deep.

 

This picture shows the bottom of the entire unit on its end during construction.  

 

 

This is oriented correctly and shows the upper framework

 

 

 

This is the bottom metal frame with wheel wells but no wheels yet.  The frame is bolted to the cabinet and two levelers are on the one end to keep it flat and not let it twist.

 

 

 

Motor dust collection, two drawers one for each motor / saw.

 

 

Completed cabinet.  NOTE this took me 5 1/2 months to design, build and finally put into use.  Working a couple hours each night and on my days off.  A lot of planning went into drawer layout to accommodate the tools I wanted and grouping them together in a way that made sense and fit the room available.  More time than most want to spend but this is my main work station and how I prefer to work. I don't do projects for money for people, just my own for the wife and I so I can spend this kind of time and effort.  

 

Twin Delta contractors table saws, plus router table.  The left one is single blade, the right has a set of dado blades set at 1/4 inch all the time.  Can be adjusted but this is the common size I use.  The fence / saws are calibrated together so one fence works for both saws, no adjustments needed.  Not an easy task.

 

 

 

 

Edited November 19, 20196 yr by Woodbutcherbynight

Well that validates my design isn't completely batty.

 

Im not sure about the metal frame but I understand it. 

 

Thanks for the input and more points to ponder. 

7 minutes ago, acr_scout said:

Well that validates my design isn't completely batty.

Only thing I would not do is use a single piece of plywood for the bottom.  You want the strength of framing under it.  I cut 2x4's in half and that is more than strong enough.  At your size cabinet you want a stable baseplate.  

 

Plan every hole you have to hold something.  Drawers are your friend for many things.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Depending on what you are rolling over you may want larger diameter wheels to ease over cracks in concrete.

The neoprene wheels are so that you do not mark up the concrete? 

If  your plan parallels woodbutchery then you have a great starting place with his excellent pictures.

 

The question for both of you is how to you lock your wheels?

 

8 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

The question for both of you is how to you lock your wheels?

 Good question and I took some more recent pictures to help out.  I had a mobile base that had these casters that could be lowered and raised.  removed the junky low grade bolts and upgraded to thicker better grade ones.

 

Two of these are on one end, and bolted to the frame with a surround of 3/16 steel.

 

 

This side can be raised off the levelers and then moved.  They swivel allowing for turns to get in and out.  Not that this has moved since install, but hey I COULD move it. With three people helping, or a forklift...

 

 

 

23 hours ago, acr_scout said:

Well that validates my design isn't completely batty.

In building this cabinet I used what I call a spine design.  Down the middle is a 3/4 piece of plywood the frame attaches at top and bottom, like a lateral support.  On each side of the frame I through bolted every 6 inches with 5/16 bolts.  This is a mock up as I don't have a pick at time of construction.  The idea came from observing a load bearing wall.  

 

 

12 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

 Good question and I took some more recent pictures to help out.  I had a mobile base that had these casters that could be lowered and raised.  removed the junky low grade bolts and upgraded to thicker better grade ones.

 

Two of these are on one end, and bolted to the frame with a surround of 3/16 steel.

 

 

This side can be raised off the levelers and then moved.  They swivel allowing for turns to get in and out.  Not that this has moved since install, but hey I COULD move it. With three people helping, or a forklift...

 

 

 

Great pictures and details thanks.  I just  hope that electrical cord is not crushed or pinched.

 

12 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

In building this cabinet I used what I call a spine design.  Down the middle is a 3/4 piece of plywood the frame attaches at top and bottom, like a lateral support.  On each side of the frame I through bolted every 6 inches with 5/16 bolts.  This is a mock up as I don't have a pick at time of construction.  The idea came from observing a load bearing wall.  

 

 

Thanks for the details very good.  Can you please show us with the spline installed in the cabinet.

Sure hope you do not need to disemble anything to show it?

2 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

 I just  hope that electrical cord is not crushed or pinched.

Nah, plenty of clearance under the cabinet.  The grey mat has a channel inside that covers where we walk and such keeping it from damage. IF I moved this a lot maybe a different method.  As it has not moved since install I am leaving that detail alone. 

 

Best picture I had to show.  Even did some drawing on it.  Thanks @lew I found a suggestion you made to someone that gave me a hint to where to look to draw on a picture.

 

 

 

24 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Thanks @lew I found a suggestion you made to someone that gave me a hint to where to look to draw on a picture.

You're welcome. I don't even remember doing it 

39 minutes ago, lew said:

I don't even remember doing it 

Have no idea when or where, the note I wrote said, "Lew Method" with instructions.  

Thanks for all of the input and continued input. I have updated my drawings and would like to further comment. It is not a finished drawing because I have to figure out what I am going to do with the router portion of the table top nor and I certain how I am going to support the out feed table. Additionally, I want to box in the motor for dust collection purposes but I don't know how I want to do it because it and the out feed top will have to be removable to get to the motor. 

 

So far I have my table saw tools and inserts accounted for in drawers and the slide out board. On the router end I desire to put drawers to hold bits and such. 

On 11/19/2019 at 11:59 AM, Michael Thuman said:

Depending on what you are rolling over you may want larger diameter wheels to ease over cracks in concrete.

The neoprene wheels are so that you do not mark up the concrete? 

If  your plan parallels woodbutchery then you have a great starting place with his excellent pictures.

 

The question for both of you is how to you lock your wheels?

 

I am rolling around the garage. Smooth concrete. My current table saw cart is on wheels along with my workbench and wood/scrap bin. I like the neoprene because they are so smooth.

3 hours ago, acr_scout said:

I want to box in the motor for dust collection purposes but I don't know how I want to do it because it and the out feed top will have to be removable to get to the motor.

Had same problem here was my solution.  Once I had installed the tablesaw I made an enclosure for the motor, in my case two motors.  Now I have a frame that attaches to the bottom of the cart, the side of the Tablesaw, and a frame for the top to bolt down to.  To allow access to the motor one of the two drawer fronts is false, screws from behind through the frame.  The other is a drawer for capturing dust.  All of this is removable, used 1/4x20 nuts and bolts.  You never know when you need more room to get to something.  

 

My idea on this entire project was to keep it modular.  If a section wasn't working out and needed to be modified it can be removed.  You asked about supporting the router side of the table.  The last picture shows the drawer modules on each side that bolt to the cart, and then to the bottom of the router extension.  Again all 1/4 x 20 bolts and bolts.  I dry fitted each section then removed to do finish work.  

 

So here we have the exposed motors just like your diagram.

 

 

Now the frame is in place and the top has been set up with the miter guides.  Each half is bolted down with recessed head 1/4 x 20 bolts to the frame through the top and on the side.  If you need to make a angled cut I just pull the bolts out and remove that half of the top.  Below is the drawer for the dust.

 

 

Now with the tops done up with some grey Formica, the false drawer fronts added and the two drawers installed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gunny, that is a really neat setup.  I have often wondered when I saw pictures if you have access to change belts, adjust the tension or whatever else you need to access the motor on the table saw.  Thanks for showing and explaining.  Super job.  

If you do DC on the saw you will need a sloped bottom tray or us a V with the port at the bottom of the V. I do not have a picture of the port but this is the saw table.

9 minutes ago, Gerald said:

If you do DC on the saw you will need a sloped bottom tray or us a V with the port at the bottom of the V. I do not have a picture of the port but this is the saw table.

A good point and this is where you have to decide on what you want for DC.  Shop DC will be the best bet.  Or you could use a shop vac onboard, you already need power for the saw so this is simple.  My method is pure gravity.  Under each saw is a drawer that the dust and debris collects in, via gravity.  Under each motor is another set of drawers, same deal.  So I do deal with it, but certainly not as efficient as a DC.  I chose to not have a pipe come across the floor anywhere.  Personal preference, by no means the best.  Just works best for me.

 

I know it is a lot of details that are being brought up but this is a good thing for you.  You get to see different methods and ask questions and see detailed pictures to aid you in your design.  This the beauty of starting the project here on the site.  Earlier in the year I started working on a router table / cabinet design and the input I got here, daily, sometimes several different suggestions a day.  All of that input made that project come out way better than my original design.

 

You can read though that post here.