Maybe, that's who I learned it from.  

If it is gloss you are looking for, I would consider an oil base.  It will be durable.  Rustoleum has it in half pint cans:

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/protective-enamel/

 

You may not want, or be able to get oil base though.

Okay, some changes to me project. After going crazy trying to figure out how to use oil based products both safely (would be done in basement, where both a gas water heater and gas burner, dwell. Plus if SWMBO catches a whiff, I’m in trouble) and effectively. I decided to go with a blue furniture paint bought from Woodcrafts. I will use a General finishes glossy topcoat on it. Both are water based, non flammable, and odorless. Also I needed to go to Lowes today for a piece of wood, so I bought a piece of Poplar, wide enough for the back piece. So the entire shelf, other than the top piece, will be Poplar, with the top piece being Cherry. The Cherry will be clear coated. All the Poplar will be painted. I wasn’t sure if using a 30 X 12X 3/4 back piece of pine, with Poplar glued to it for sides and bottom shelf, might not mix well. Pictures will follow (so as to prove it really happened  )

Can you set up a couple saw horses under some plastic.  Maybe tack a plastic sheet to the facia board of the house and allow it to drape.  Then put your sawhorses under there.  If it is warm enough to paint, then do it under the plastic.  It needs to be away from heat sources as you have stated and black plastic sheeting will prevent her from seeing.  And, just encourage her to go shopping while you rest.  That's when you can move the items outside and paint.  You have to learn to be sneaky.  

Unfortunately we live in a townhouse, all the outside is association area and subject to association rules. Also not sure when it’s gonna be warm enough outside to paint, for a while.

6 hours ago, Artie said:

Unfortunately we live in a townhouse, all the outside is association area and subject to association rules. Also not sure when it’s gonna be warm enough outside to paint, for a while.

The recent sub freezing temperatures might be an issue for painting outside.    A latex paint should provide what you need Artie . It is available in a variety of sheens from flat to gloss. I'd go to HD to find the color and sheen wanted from their color charts. Have them mix a sample can , " about 1/2 pint " for you. That should be all you'll need. No need to buy more than the sample size.

Well, let's get a bit more creative.  Find another paint project.  If she doesn't like the smell of paint, maybe, she'll go to a friends home or shopping.  Then you can paint the real project.  So when she returns, you can still be painting on the faux project.  In the meantime, while she is absent you can put on a coat of what you want and hide it under the bed or someplace she may not notice.  All inside.  

Okay, top shelf i’s done with finish coats, other than the bottom. I will do that after I glue it to the shelf. Pegs are done with their 3’rd coat. Shelf has it’s second topcoat, will apply 3’rd coat in the morning.

Looks pretty good Artie!!!!!

It's looking good Artie.  I can't wait to see what it looks like when it is complete.   Danl

On 11/14/2019 at 10:56 AM, Al B said:

I'd go to HD to find the color and sheen wanted from their color charts. Have them mix a sample can , " about 1/2 pint " for you. That should be all you'll need. No need to buy more than the sample size.

Coming along nicely!

 

A couple of thoughts even though I'm a bit late to this thread...I tried the HD sample route for a small project a couple of years ago.  At the time, the sample sizes were only available in flat.  Don't know if they have made other sheens available.

 

Recently, I used a new enamel-type paint from Ben Moore.  I think it's called Advance, it's pricey, only available in gallons and can be tinted.  It's intended for painting cabinets and smooths out nicely even when brushed.  It has a pretty long cure time, water clean up, and not too smelly.  I think SW has a similar product.  And the real test - SWMBO was pleased with the outcome.

Jim

That is looking real good Artie!  Was the blue sprayed or brushed on?

2 hours ago, Cal said:

That is looking real good Artie!  Was the blue sprayed or brushed on?

I used the foam brushes. The plan is to get the holes for the pegs drilled out tonight, the pegs glued in, and the top shelf dowel holes (for line up purposes) drilled, and the top shelf glued/screwed on. 

It's coming along very well, Artie. Like others, I'm anxious to see it all together. 

2 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

It's coming along very well, Artie. Like others, I'm anxious to see it all together. 

+1 LOL

I was SOOO close to having a project I was happy with and proud of...... alas . When I bought the pegs I thought the tenons were 1/4, turned out that was for the pegs in the picture above in the catalog. I bought a Kreg shelf pin jig, so I could get the pegs installed accurately. I drilled the holes with the Kreg jig, 1/4 inch. Then I figgered I would drill the 1/4 holes out to 3/8 using a drill bit guide (I dunno what you call it, piece of metal with the different sized holes in it, about 3/4 inch thick). Apparently this doesn’t work out as well in practice as theory. I gouged out one hole, and two others will just need a delicate hand and brush to fix. I’m trying to figger out if I need to put a dash of Famowood in, let dry, sand, paint, topcoat, or just try to dab some paint in, and dab some topcoat on, afterwards. The top shelf is just less than 36 inches by6 inches. 

Tough one but recoverable.  Question, did you drill the holes before painting?  I generally dry fit everything before any finish is applied because I seem to always miss some small detail that is important.  

 

As small as that is I would dab it with some sheet rock quick dry spackle.  Light sanding and touch up with paint.  

I was going to suggest using a plumbers putty, but after seeing woodbutcher's suggestion, I like his idea more. Should bond easily and dry fast on such a small repair. Use a fine sandpaper to prevent scratches in your paint.

Edited November 23, 20196 yr by Al B

20 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Tough one but recoverable.  Question, did you drill the holes before painting?  I generally dry fit everything before any finish is applied because I seem to always miss some small detail that is important.  

 

As small as that is I would dab it with some sheet rock quick dry spackle.  Light sanding and touch up with paint.  

I figured that if I drilled the holes first, when I painted and topcoated I would get some in the holes, making  the diameter too small for the pegs and also the glue would have less contact with wood, to hold. Apparently I need to rethink that process, though using the Kreg jig, the 1/4 holes came out perfectly. 

1 minute ago, Artie said:

when I painted and topcoated I would get some in the holes

To address this problem you undersize a dowel and wrap with some sticky backed sandpaper.  You can turn by hand or chuck up the dowel in your drill and go very slow.  Don't want to oversize them just clean them out.  If you have a Dremel you can use that but to me that spins way too fast.  

 

Just got home from seeing why the neighbor's wife was screaming.  Seems her husband bought a small drill press and thought it could be used to stir some paint.  Yeah, he had it at max speed and a full gallon of paint.  Paint is EVERYWHERE!!!  No picture, I will spare the guy the humiliation. 

 

I did however get a hearty laugh.