Like many I have a router on the one wing of the TS.  And yes it gets in the way sometimes but for larger work it works well.  Having been given a Bosch 1604 I saw opportunity in the form of a mini router table.  Scanning the shop I found a nice place to stow it away, in the form of a drawer.  Lost 3 small drawers but they were only 9 inches wide smaller stuff I can displace, albeit remembering where I did so may be an issue.

 

To make the router lift I am using a small Lab Scissor lift.  About 4 inch square with more than enough lift for this task.  Put in drawer slides to guide the router assembly smoothly up and down.  Had to run a 1/4 threaded rod through the front to lock the sled in place after setting the height with the lower adjustment wheel.  So far the drawer is made, sits level and has 4 sets of 150lb drawer slides to support it.  The sled is made, all the kinks worked out and it now awaits a wheel to attach to the lift and a switch, box and some wiring.  While I know 4 inch DC ports and systems are all the rage my shop has 2 1/2 and it works, not going to go through a major refrb at this time.  So the port will be for a DC hose but inverted as the side of the drawer has 1/2 clearance so nothing can stick out.

 

Only issue I have not got a working design for is the mechanical locks to keep the drawer from sliding back in while in use.  Have two ideas about it that some mock ups will be in order to see how they work.

 

It's coming, but at my typical pace, kinda slow.

 

Could you insert a dowel in the right side to stop it from sliding back in? I like the way you are building your router table and I enjoyed all the pictures. Please keep us updated on your progress.

2 minutes ago, hawkeye10 said:

ould you insert a dowel in the right side to stop it from sliding back in?

Ideally a mechanical lock would be something that pops out when the drawer is full extended.  Then is released when you are done and want to stow away.  I am thinking a brake retaining spring and a flat bar of steel attached to the sides will work.  The spring will keep tension pushing the bar out.  But when inside the cabinet it would be forced to be "unlocked"  Once you pull it out the spring pushes out and when you reach the outer edge of the cabinet it "locks".  To push back requires pushing BOTH sides back as well as leaning on the drawer, at the same time.  

 

Or a mechanical lock that you have to engage each time on each side.  Have to see what mock ups and actual testing yields.  Just found a video on a handwheel I like so tomorrow I have that to make as well.

 

 

@Woodbutcherbynight ...

w/ the end of the router motor sitting on the lift, aren't you now starving the motor of it's cooling air flow???

6 hours ago, Stick486 said:

w/ the end of the router motor sitting on the lift, aren't you now starving the motor of it's cooling air flow???

Should have added this picture, was taken in mock up stage.   Has 2 1/2 inches of open space below motor.  I am reconsidering the placement of the DC.  Currently I have a spot at the top of the unit. 

 

Maybe closer to the bottom?

 

 

A thought on DC. Having air flow thru the cabinet will cool the router also. Collection will be better at the bottom and by placing a baffle across will give more even collection than a single hole

DC port installed and working on a set up for baffles inside.  Getting kinda cramped in this box now.  Managed to get the top cut and edge banded then Formica put on.  Will bevel the edges tomorrow and drill 4 holes to mount from the top.  While I hate to have 4 little recesses to collect dust and debris I have to think about getting inside and having to do maintenance one day.  Best way is from the top.  Also glued up a 5 inch chunk of various woods for the handwheel crank.  Couldn't let it go with a piece of plywood. 

Got add some fancy to it.

 

 

 

4 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

DC port installed and working on a set up for baffles inside.

I'd have to put a note on the table or some kind of switched alarm telling me to remove the DC hose before closing the drawer.

1 minute ago, Grandpadave52 said:

I'd have to put a note on the table or some kind of switched alarm telling me to remove the DC hose before closing the drawer.

YUP.  Course first you have to release the mechanical lock.  Which in theory should remind me to pull the hose.  Mechanical lock design so far is like Fairy Dust, very elusive.  Have two more designs to try tomorrow in testing.

Two things almost done.  First is the glued up blank for the hand crank to raise and lower the router.  Second is I may have the kinks worked out for the lock mechanism that goes on the back and jams against the sides of the cabinet.  Thinking about using this 1/4 inch steel bar I had. 

 

Should be strong enough?

 

On 1/2/2019 at 10:20 PM, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Second is I may have the kinks worked out for the lock mechanism that goes on the back and jams against the sides of the cabinet.

Enjoy seeing your creative solutions.

14 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Enjoy seeing your creative solutions.

Thanks, always got something brewing but not always coming up with a solution.  

 

Crank wheel turned to size.  Next a suicide handle for the wheel.

 

Top installed and center hole cut.  Checked for operation, router runs well, not overly loud.  Track runs smooth and adjust well.  Did a test cut and checked to see if it was straight and the cut lines parallel, check.  Four sets of drawer slides provide plenty of support and allow for easy pull and push to get drawer opened and closed.  

 

After several test on a mock up drawer I came up with this simple solution for locking the drawer in place both forward and back.  Two 3/16thick steel bars on each side that drop into place against a block of Corian on the inside of the cabinet.  Gravity does the work.  To release push down on both sides and using hip lean into drawer then let go.  Slides back over the locks and in with the drawer.

 

nice...

what are you doing for cooling air for the motor???

Venting a router table's motor that has under table DC...

This is by Stick486
One very important thing you have to remember is to make sure your router box is vented w/ outside air for the motor or you will cook the motor from excessive heat because of the lack of cooling air for the motor... A DC pick up only to the motor box deprives the motor of cooling air ...
Do this by either sticking the motor's air intake outside of the box or add a ''snorkel'' to the end of router motor...

This is by Herb ''Dadio'' Stoops...
That is a good point, Stick, I let the router protrude through the bottom of the box. By doing so I had to cut out the bottom to clear the posts for the JessEm lift. I like Stick's idea better to clamp a flex hose around the router and let it protrude through the bottom of the box to allow the motor to suck clean air. I also have an adjustable port in the side of the box to allow more air into the box to create a maximum air flow through the box for the DC.

In my first router table I had the Milwaukee router, it was a real workhorse, the reason I bought the Milwaukee was at that time it was one of the few routers you could adjust the height from the top of the table. I didn't have a dust collection under the table at that time and could reach under, unlatch the router and do the adjustment from the top ,then reach under and lock the router. But the amount of chips and dust that ended up under the table was a large amount. The fence dust collection just couldn't get half the chips.

I also doored the router box for easy access to the router and the lift...
Stick did the same and he installed his vents in the door...
Under the table DC is a must, I branched off a 4" diameter hose with a 2½" take off to the fence and the 4" line to the underside of the table's box.

This is by Stick486
Now for Plan ''C''.....
A closed dust collector box keeps the inside of the table's router box at negative pressure. Which limits air flow and to some extent, deprives the motor of cooling air flowing through the motor. This fosters a condition where the router motor will overheat.
Building a box enclosing the lift and router motor w/ DC porting/venting and at the same time providing motor cooling make up air separately allows the DC's air to flow at optimum efficiency.

Suggestion:
Add a large square boot, (right angle 4'' outlet minimum), centered to the router motor, on the bottom of the box and dedicate to DC....

Now, cooling airflow to the motor.
Adding a ''snorkel'' made of plastic or metal to the end of the router motor, of sufficient length to protrude outside of the box, irrespective of motor elevation, would ensure fresh cooling air to the motor.
This snorkel/tube/sleeve goes right through the dust collector boot (you would need to cut a hole in the boot for integration). It allows the motor to draw clean outside air for cooling while not interfering w/ DC.

HEAT will destroy your motor in very short order without good clean airflow.

When you attach the snorkel to motor make sure you don't seal up the air inlet vanes.
Round routers only need a round tube. Oversize the tube and use a reducing bushing with an ID to fit your motor.

Square ended router motors need a little more creativity. There are a host of square to round PVC adapters found in the “Big Box” chain stores' plumbing departments and they are also used in storm water drainage systems. Fernco also makes an extensive product line. In addition, look to vinyl guttering components. Also, don't skip by the HVAC section either. There is a vast variety of adapters available. There isn't anything saying that you can't use a length of square tube. There are a host DC fittings that may work. You could even fix the tube aka snorkel to the bottom of the box and let the router motor slide freely up and down in the tube. You could make this square tube from thin plywood or even FRP.

Now, as to the mounting. There are many options available; hose clamps, Velcro, Tywraps, mechanical (screws, nutserts, etc.). Mechanical method would be preferred if you have a thick motor cap and there's plenty of clearance under the cap to give the end of your mechanical fastener room so the fastener doesn't damage anything.

Velcro:

For that to work, (slide on - slide off can be tad difficult) barrier the hooks and loops w/ a plastic putty knife(s). Set the snorkel. Remove the putty knife(s).
To separate the H&L to remove the snorkel, slide/work the putty knife(s) in between the H&L to release one from the other.) Remove the snorkel.

Notes:
An open bottom box won't work all that well if there are drawers under the router box, nor will the snorkel through bottom or a bottom mounted DC boot unless they are designed into the table. Venting and DC will work if installed through the back or side of the box. Whatever you do, you need to arrange for make up air (venting/cooling) and pickup for for the DC simultaneously. There many variables here but all in all this should give you plenty of ideas to work w/ for/on a finished system that will work well for you. See the pictures for more ideas.......

 

Ideas/Suggestions/Concept:

Compliments of Herb ''Dadio'' Stoops...

 

 

 

 

Baffle plate I had figured out, drawing in outside air I did not forsee.  Thanks Stick!!

Stick is way overthinking this. Just bore holes (about 1 inch will work) in the front of the cabinet equivalent in area to the DC hose and fresh air will draw thru cabinet and not only cool but enhance DC collection and efficiency .

Moving on today I have managed to reinstall two drawers under the router table/drawer.  Used the old drawer fronts as they were finished and fit.  The false front door is on 1/2 piano hinge and opens far enough to allow drawer to open and not be in way.  Also has enough clearance to get to lock, this was important.

 

My overall goal was to not make it obvious the router existed behind the drawer.  Wanted it to look just like a row of drawers.  Just me seeing how detailed I can get.  Not a gotta have or it won't work moment.  My only real hold up is whether or not to cut out a hole for the router bit on the upper cabinet drawer front.  

Took a few pictures to show better than write about it.  Clearance between top of table and bottom of cabinet is a shade under 1 1/2 inches.

 

16 minutes ago, Gerald said:

Stick is way overthinking this.

nope...

this takes in account the the Venturi effect, (basic physics), and some serious collaborated research....

the Venturi effect literally deprives cooling air to the router if motor's intake isn't vented to negate the Venturi Effect...

there is a physics major and the engineering department of a tool manufacturer involved in this also..

 

 

Edited January 6, 20197 yr by Stick486

10 minutes ago, Gerald said:

Stick is way overthinking this. Just bore holes (about 1 inch will work) in the front of the cabinet equivalent in area to the DC hose and fresh air will draw thru cabinet and not only cool but enhance DC collection and efficiency .

Front is kinda crowded.  Would the opposite side (right side of cabinet) work?  Have more than enough room between the drawer slides to put a 1 inch or better hole. Top or bottom?  The air inlet is at bottom of router so I am thinking the bottom is better and it also already has a baffle set up to deflect the dust toward the DC port.