My BIL used to own an electrical install/repair co. and he helped me wire our present home and shop. I asked him about the placement of the ground. He said if the outlet is wired correctly, the neutral is on the left and the hot is on the right. If the outlet is placed so that's the case, the ground will be at the bottom. Plus, code inspectors want it that way. We had to leave the outlets open for inspection. They could easily see if they were wired correctly. A few in the shop are installed sideways. The ground had to be on the right so the hot was at the top. 

 

 

42 minutes ago, Dadio said:

Kelly now you got me wondering again on which way the ground prong should be. I am going to start a thread for a discussion.

Herb

 

Did it just now

I have no idea if there a "code" by I have seen them both ways. I always try to have the ground prong down - it seems to "feel" better when I plug something in.

 

I did not see Gene's post - makes total sense.

Edited October 26, 20169 yr by Chips N Dust

Gene's post does make sense. In the 40 years I did construction I saw them both ways.

Herb

I have seen them both ways but heard it said the ground should "point" towards the ground.  I have one with the ground up.  It is in a piece of peg board I moved here from the last house and hung the peg board upside down from the way it was.  Is there a correct side up for peg board?  This time there was.  Lived with it that way for 20 years and counting.

Another Tip:

I forget what sanding grit is on my disk sander and/or drum sander from previous uses, so I took a key hook with a magnetic base and stuck that on each machine then I took key tags (the cardboard/paper ones with a metal ring around the outside and a split ring), wrote the grit on it. Each grit has its own key tag and when that grit is on the machine, I put the corresponding key tag on the key hook - then I can easily remember which grit is on the sanding machine(s)

There is a smooth side and a rough side, I think the smooth side is supposed to go out.

Herb

35 minutes ago, Dadio said:

There is a smooth side and a rough side, I think the smooth side is supposed to go out.

Herb

 

I did get that part right I think.  I can't see the back.  Which smooth side goes out when both sides are smooth?

2 hours ago, Dadio said:

Kelly now you got me wondering again on which way the ground prong should be. I am going to start a thread for a discussion.

Herb

 

Did it just now

ground positioned so the cord immediately hangs down on right angled cord caps...

I don't do it but,  I've seen guys write the grit# on the grit side with a sharpie. Then, when you change discs, you know which side goes down.

Go to any hospital and with the outlet vertical and the ground is at the top.  Code does not specify which way it is positioned when vertical.    If the weight of the cord is hanging down,  with the ground at top the hot blade would not be exposed as it would if the ground is at the bottom.  The ground is also a little longer for the same reason.   When installed sideways the neutral should be at the top for the same reason,  to prevent the hot to be exposed.     Around here most are installed with the ground down but up makes more sense.    Roly

 

4 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

@Gerald; Sweet miter gauge enhancements. Got any more pictures of it I can steal ideas from, 'er admire? 

This is the only other pic I have that shows anything different. The fence itself is 2 layers of ply. The extension stop is mounted in a slot which is a V cut in each piece of ply . This came from some shop magazine , maybe Shopnotes (hated to lose that one). Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks Gerald...saved the pics to my Jigs File...really like the design & execution of it.

Yep, I hated to see Shop Notes go too.

3 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

My BIL used to own an electrical install/repair co. and he helped me wire our present home and shop. I asked him about the placement of the ground. He said if the outlet is wired correctly, the neutral is on the left and the hot is on the right. If the outlet is placed so that's the case, the ground will be at the bottom. Plus, code inspectors want it that way. We had to leave the outlets open for inspection. They could easily see if they were wired correctly. A few in the shop are installed sideways. The ground had to be on the right so the hot was at the top. 

 

 

From what I've read, the National Electrical Code does not specify ground up or ground down.  Though maybe some local inspectors have a different opinion.   One of my daughters lives in a different county, across the state, and all hers are ground prong up.  Around here, most are prong down, though in my last house, they were not uniform from room to room (and I didn't do them).   I have some tools / extension cords that work better one way ot the other, so I have some double outlets with one side prong up and the other prong down.  Then I can pick which one works better.

 

https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/electrical/groundorientation.html

 

Edited October 27, 20169 yr by kmealy

Don't know if prong down is code here, Kieth. I do know that the inspector commented that he was glad to see that I had mounted the outlets the "right" way.

After thinking about it, my BIL may have been concerned about the safety of the next guy to work on the outlets. Which he knew would probably be me.

Getting back to Gene's original post  here, I had been using this same technique for several years. My little 10" Ryobi planer was famous for snipe. I don't remember where I first saw the idea, but it performed wonders for me, eliminating the snipe. I did add a wooden turn handle to the stop on the infeed side as a lock to prevent the board from lifting as the planed piece passed thru on to the outfeed side. Not even sure if it was necessary. I actually used a piece of 3/4" pine, cabinet grade plywood that was left over from a previous project. The Melamine would definitely been a less expensive option.

Slicker too, I'd imagine. 

Trying to do a glue up, with  just two hands.....used the end vise to help out..

Put the bottom board in the vise, add glue, then add #2 board and clamps.     #1 board can't run away, or flip me off.     Nice to have a helper in the shop. 

Everyone seems to make complicated drill tables.  I went simple.  Used a flat piece of particle board with a slot cut in the middle bolted to the metal table.  I make inserts for the slot to use as backers and they can be moved side to side for fresh wood and turned over when worn and replaced when both sides are used up.  The fence has a bolt in the right side that goes in holes in the table with a hand knob on the underside to tighten it to the table.  The left side is just clamped in place and can be fine adjusted with a bump of the hammer.

 

 

 

4 hours ago, HandyDan said:

 

I did get that part right I think.  I can't see the back.  Which smooth side goes out when both sides are smooth?

 

4 hours ago, HandyDan said:

 

I did get that part right I think.  I can't see the back.  Which smooth side goes out when both sides are smooth?

The side with the hole in it if I remember correctly.

Herb

3 hours ago, Stick486 said:

ground positioned so the cord immediately hangs down on right angled cord caps...

What if the box is on it's side? or mounted to the ceiling?

Herb