Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'track saw'.
Found 8 results
-
The latest chapter. (BTW, I had spinal surgery yesterday and "avoid strenuous activity for 6-8 weeks. All my Xmas projects are done, so you might see more of my posts here). Why do people think dowels, dominos, or biscuits are necessary for edge-to-edge glue ups. I can understand some assistance in alignment when needed but there are other ways. Dowels, in particular are fussy with alignment and don't add strength. Dowel joints are not very strong. I read a FWW article years ago about why. Boiled down to two reasons: minimal glue surface, most of which is end grain and differential expansion of wood. I have reglued dozens of chairs where once I removed the corner blocks, the pieces just pull apart. Why is a miter saw on the top list of things for a newbie? Unless you are doing construction or on site work, you can do most anything with a table saw. And it has limited types of cuts it will make. Unless you do a lot with sheet goods or live edge planks, ditto for a track saw. Why do people put so much glue on that there are puddles of it running out once clamped.
- 28 replies
-
- 10
-
-
-
- glue up
- edge to edge
- (and 11 more)
-
Maybe I'm just a grumpy old guy, but Things I don't really like or want to do * Live edge furniture * Epoxied "river" tables * Flame treated wood, particularly softwoods * Polyurethane on everything * Cedar picket planter boxes Suggested tools for starting out * Miter saw - a table saw will do everything it can * Track saw - does one thing well, but can't do 95% of what a table saw can do, maybe if all you did was plywood * Air nailer, brad gun - you can really get by without this, unless you've watched too much Norm Abram * MFT table - meh While I'm at it, a Domino would be nice, but I can't justify $20 per joint for all the use I'd get out of it. Polyurethane Gorilla Glue -- short shelf life, messy, foams out, ruins clothes, stains flesh, does not gap fill, not easily re-done if it fails
-
Ryobi Track Saw Announcement
Grandpadave52 posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
Received an email yesterday from Ryobi announcing their new, 18v, One+ brushless track saw. Won't be available until April. Pretty decent specs. If a downside, only 6-1/2" saw but should be fine for sheet goods. No price yet so that will be interesting as will extra track extensions prices for 8' lengths. Ryobi 18v One+ Track Saw- 1 reply
-
- 8
-
-
-
- track saw
- ryobi trac saw
- (and 3 more)
-
I’m building a free standing island with hickory plywood so I borrowed a Grizzly track saw from a friend. It made breaking down plywood so much easier and I’m planning on buying one. This isn’t a cheap purchase so I’m asking for input. For you who have a track saw, what k8nd is it and would you recommend it?
-
Looking the Menards ad last night. Saw they have a sub-$200 track saw. It's their private label so I'm not sure how good it is, but seems to have cracked the $700+ glass ceiling of Festool, DeWalt and Makita. And a 110" track, great for full sheets of ply, MDF, OSB, etc. https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/power-saws-accessories/masterforce-reg-6-1-2-plunge-cut-track-saw-kit-with-110-track/2410706/p-1489990860634-c-9082.htm?tid=4470200921871567213&ipos=1 Anyone seen or used it?
-
I'm tooling up to do my first resin table and I'd rather not spend the $600 for the Festool track saw I'm seeing in all the videos. Is there a comparable model that performs as well? I definitely won't be a high volume producer. Don't need it to do any specialized functions. Just need it to have settings for cut depths and use a vacuum system.
-
I guess I'm a table saw guy, as I could never justify the cost of a track saw when it can't do many things (like joinery, non flat and wide shapes) that a table saw can do with ease and repeat ability. And I only use my circular saw a few times a year to rough cut out plywood sheets. But I see there's a new kid on the block. Not enough to make me spring for one, though.
-
I ran across an old post from somewhere else last night. I made a statement that the table saw was the most useful tool in my shop. Someone responded that he could do anything with his circular saw that I could do with my table saw. I also regularly see that, "Buy that [Festool] track saw and it will replace your table saw." Umm, I think not. I've always considered that a fantasy. After attending the joinery seminar last weekend and reading the cabinetmaking book I recently mentioned, it got me back on my soap box. I should note that I do have a sliding cross-cut table and a tenoning jig on my TS. I came up with a list of things I can do easily with a table saw that I couldn't do at all or with great difficulty and numerous jigs with a track saw: Cuts on edge or end of a board - tenons - bridle joints - slip joints - edge grooves (e.g., for a panel insert) - rabbets - joint variations such and tongue & groove, dado & rabbet, double rabbet joint, dovetailed rabbet, etc. - half lap - splined miters - keyed/feathered miters - box/finger joints - dovetails (yes, I've done them on a table saw) - Resawing (I've done this down to about 1/16") Any cut deeper than about 1.75" Operations using something other than a standard blade - dadoes and grooves with a dado set - molding head Bevels less than 45 degrees (or more than 45 degrees if you're using your tilt gauge) - raised panels - tapered slip tenon Operations on stock that's lot straight and square - mitering profiled moldings such as crown molding, picture frame stock (some of which might be compound miter) Other - cove cutting circular or elliptical - slab seat profiling (Mario Rodriguez: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SveP71RLs4) - set up fence or stop(s) and "Measure once, cut 1000 times" - circle cutting - working on very small pieces (I can easily cut 1" off a 2" long, 1" wide board on my TS) </soapbox>
