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Showing results for tags 'procedure'.
Found 9 results
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I've got my frames turned and the glass cut. Now I've moved on (or tried) to interior board. I want to mount the quarters on a small piece of maple slightly larger than the quarter and countersunk to hold the coin. I also want this to be face grain for the coins. To keep with the turning part of this I wanted those pieces to be about 1/4"-3/8" thick, and about 1 1/2" wide. My first approach to this hasn't worked so well. I glued some maple squares together to make a stack, thinking I would turn the stack round, and then slice wafers off on my table saw. The turning part has me stumped at the moment. The pick shows one of the glued stacks I started with. Then you see a (sortof) rounded on with huge chip outs in it. Getting it to this point of being round was pretty tough. I tried a 3/8" bowl gouge and was having a lot of catches and just being very hard to turn. I switched to a carbide roghing tool and fared better, at least in getting the corners knocked off. The I went back to the bowl gouge and got to the point it is now, but with those huge chip outs. Is there another way of doing this? Do I need a different gouge? Maybe I should figure on using square mount blocks for the coins.
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I'm working on a small platter, and having a hard time getting the inside of the edge smoothed out, I keep getting tear out. I'm thinking about taking a small bowl gouge and use light cuts but it would be easier for me to run the lathe backwards and reach over to the opposite side to 1) see what I'm doing, and 2) maybe get it smoothed out with no tear out...thinking I'll be able to take lighter cuts than I can from my side of the lathe. Is this something that's done routinely (and safely)? This thing is in a chuck and I'd tighten the locking screws down good before trying this. This strictly to make it easier to see what I'm doing. Here's the tear out that I don't have the patience to sand out. PS, it's hard maple
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I'm still playing with the 2 part, 30 minute epoxy. I have refined my set up and application process. I am still learning. Here are some rules I use a low RPM manual setup to regulate RPM 1. MOST IMPORTANT! Clean your lathe and surrounding area of all dust. Just one little mistake will show up and stay. 2 Apply slowly with a small brush while turning at slow RPM 3. Go over any areas that look like they need it. Remember that curing time can creep up on you. 4. Once you are satisfied, allow the piece to continue turning for 45 minutes (curing time is 30 minutes on the epoxy I used) 5. Shut down and allow it stand in the lathe for 24 hours for a full cure. It does look like glass. NOT everyone likes Christmas ornaments that look like that. I do.
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This picture is how I copy something. Probably every one already does this but I have seen guys having to pick up things then hold them close to the turning then lay it back down then turn the lathe back on to continue and that seems to take too much time???? But I admit I know nothing about running a lathe
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Ok, I know I am missing something here so I am going to ask the collective. What is the trick to turning two things that match? Earlier this week I turned a couple pegs for the patio chair I am working on and those went pretty well. They are within a couple hundredth of each other and there are no real curves to them as they need to contact the back in a level manner. Fast forward to doing a couple of shaker style pegs for the bottom of the back assembly. I cannot get these to match. After a couple days this is as good as it gets. I can see the difference but I don’t understand how with the same marking layout they can be so far from each other. The domes just aren’t the same curvature even though they are the same diameter and height, one is much flatter than the other. Is there a trick to getting these similar or do I just need to chuck them up and spend a couple hours trying to sand them to the same profile?
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I think I may have found a way of getting around my picture posting problem and am giving it a try.
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Not sure if this was a wise move to sacrafice a center band for size adjusting?
AndrewB posted a topic in Wood Turners
So I turned a zircote blank today that wood is beyond brittle I had quite a few knicks and chunks fly off but it wound up going okay. But I'm not sure if it was a wise move on sacraficing one of my center bands that I don't have many of to use as a size gap comparrison so I could better turn down the body of the pen barrels to a better diameter. It seemed to work out for the most part but I'm wondering if I didn't realize this was not a new thing and I'm just making newbie mistakes anyways here is the video for it.- 5 replies
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I am getting ready to glue up a rather large cutting board: 24x48, finished size 23x38. Will need to trim some splits off the ends. In the past, I've use pipe clamps and alternated them top and bottom. This time I'm using parallel jaw clamps. Do they need to be alternated as well?
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Lew, you asked to see what my glue ups looked like before I turned them. I couldn't find the ones I wanted but did find one of my glue ups for another table top project. Boards over and under during cutting and then swapped. I also get ideas as I assemble for cutting for glue ups. I have others turning pictures, can't locate them
