1 minute ago, schnewj said:

Apparently, they don't make a dark wood glue. Just Titebond original, II, III and hide glue.

 

The real interesting things, is, TB recommends II for dark woods. I really have to question that recommendation after comparing the color of all three.

Bill, Did you not see my post - I even went to their website and they still make a dark wood glue. They call it Titebond II Dark Wood Glue.

1 minute ago, schnewj said:

Found it!

 

http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id

You found it while I was posting my message!

1 minute ago, Chips N Dust said:

You found it while I was posting my message!

That's a bad link I had to edit it.

 

Apparently there is a whole boat load of woodworking glues made by Titebond. I have NEVER seen some of these advertised or for sale in the stores.

 

Makes you wonder what other products we're missing out on!

I have a whole tote of glues, but the one I use most often is Titebond Original.   Why?

* All the PVA glues have about equal strength +-5% and are stronger that the surrounding wood in a good joint

* If I get a dab on my clothes, it washes out.   I have a few shirts with TBII or TBIII spots that won't ever come out

* It's a bit cheaper than the type 2 PVAs

 

I have recently started using Titebond No-Run / No-Drip glue for end grain and miter joints.

 

I also got a bottle of their new "Quick and Thick" that I have used for on-site work, engineered wood, end-grain, etc.

 

I like them all.

 

Also have needs for epoxy liquid and pastes, CA glues, The Amazing Goop in various configurations (most of it is just re-labeled). Hide Glue and Elmer's white PVA when I need some extended closed time such as re-gluing chairs.  Fabric glues and 3M Super 77 for upholstery work.   For picture matting, I use ATG (which I call a no-sided adhesive tape -- the backing rolls off and leaves a layer of adhesive. Re-positionable for a short while, then permanent).

 

Edited August 30, 20169 yr by kmealy

Keith,

 

How well does the no run, no drip glue work?

 

I had not seen this until I looked at the website. There are times when this would come in handy for me.

Ive used resourcinol  for heat resistance and water proof, elmers white because that is what there was,  titebond (not their longer open time yet) for all the obvious reasons,   cyanoarcylate for speed and its ability to get deep in cracks,  hot melt for temporary stuff & hide for the fast tack, but not plastic resin glue. 

I've used and been disappointed by epoxies. I don't prefer epoxies because they are prone to squeeze out and go all to pieces when warmed too much. But I'm planning on using them for encapsulation for turning. I do like JB Weld; the stuff is bullet proof.

 

 

Edited August 31, 20169 yr by Cliff

But which glue has the best flavor?

 

I like it real well.   I had the Franklin Tech Lead come to Cincinnati Woodworking Club for a Glue Seminar a couple of years ago.   He took a 1x2 piece of poplar cross-cut with a neat cut line, glued end-grain to end-grain with No-Run No-Drip glue.  He tested it 15 minutes later and you could not break the joint with your hands.  It did finally snap when he put it on blocks on the floor and stood on it and bounded up and down.   It would also be real handy if you were doing something where you did not want any runny squeeze out.

 

 

22 hours ago, schnewj said:

Keith,

 

How well does the no run, no drip glue work?

 

I had not seen this until I looked at the website. There are times when this would come in handy for me.

 

Thanks, Keith...may have to give this a try. Just have to find out who carries it locally.