You are right John I can't see a "repair" anywhere If I know a repair isn't going to turn out before hand, I would rather fill it with a noticeably different color to try to give a bit of an interesting offset to what otherwise would look like a sloppy repair

By the way, most chair builders take it to 600 then Abralon 1000, I just like to go one extra is all! Makes me feel good, or quite possibly as you said, addicted.

I was born in the wrong era. You know there was a time before sand paper, right? ;-)

Ya, it was called scrapers! Hey, there is a time and place for all of it. A scraper is not going to get the same finish as sanding to such a high degree as we do on the sculpted work.

There is a difference between cabinet and flat work finishing schedules and sculpted woodworking finishing schedules.

When I do cabinet work or flat work, that I am going to brush on or spray on a finish, I'll sand to 180 grit, that's it. Then between the first two coats I'll sand to 220. After the final coat I'll sand it to 320 then use a brown paper bag soaked in mineral spirits for the final rub out.

When working in sculpted wood, it's a different animal, we want that "In the wood" finish that sanding to such a high degree can achieve.

All the finishing labor is sanding in sculpted woodworking, 99.9 percent is all sanding, then, there is the ultimate glory that does not require any skill whatsoever, the finish. SImply soak a rag in BLO or your favorite oil finish, and wipe on wipe off, repeat one more time, and you have a beautiful fine finish that does not look like a finish. It's all sanding, and very little actual finish.

I recently constructed a colonial wall box that I did not use a single sheet of sand paper on, I planed the surfaces with my lovely LN # 4 Smoother, that is all, then a coat of oil. Just like the old woodworkers did in the day before sand paper, that is where you are coming from Mark, and for that a tip of the hat to ye. Live on ol woodworker!

LOL My Stepfather used to say he was "born too late". He never really liked any of the newer machinery that we have now. To the point of absolutely refusing to touch a computer LOL.

I tend to take my turnings (I have never made furniture) to 600 grit then I use EEE Ultra shine on them to basically bring it to within 1000 or 1200 grit sanding equivalent. I simply cannot stand to have a rough spot in any part of the turning, it drives me batty. That said, there is a definite place for rustic furniture I love the stuff, but I also cannot help touching or at least looking at a totally smooth piece of fine furniture. I used to have an image of a coffee table made from Macassar Ebony. It was truly a work of art.

High 5 gents!

Agree with both of you but I'm still willing to be the Big Bad John here and am ready for a competition, me, my smoothing planes, scraper planes and hand scrapers.

OK I also use some Japanese tricks with heat.

Hehe, your on!

Hmmm, now how do we do this? It's going to require us meeting at a watering hole of your choice, chewing the fat over the terms of the contest, then eating a big meal topped off by some obnoxious desert, then perhaps by that time we'll have the ground rules laid down, and perhaps we may even get to do some woodworking!

Big smile bro. I've got to get back outside, have been cutting wood siding all day but keep checking this dang tablet for messages. :-)

You still here? Get back to work!

 

OK LOL If you insist, I need to finish a pen anyway

 

I use TB2 for quick set up type of glue ups and TB3 for things I need more working time. I have also found that TB3 color matches darker woods better and makes it harder to see glue lines. TB2 color matches liter woods better,oak,pine, maple ect.

I have used ca to fix some chip outs. Also contact adhesive for Formica. I have also used urethane and wood dust to make a filler for some projects.

 

Great post Charles! I find that color matching glue with the wood is a great advantage for sure!

Wonder if one could tint TB?

You could I guess if you wanted to "water" it down, but it would probably weaken the bond and would probably take longer to set.

OK, now I'm curious.. Where are you guys getting so much glue to show that the tint matters?

You know by now I do glue cleanup with a scraper, which by the way is good practice even for the sand paper team, if you use a scraper first your sanding will go better.

I recently tested CA glue on an emergency job, the kind where the other crew calls me in to make it right before the customer goes ballistic.. Anyhow it surprised me that it was no better, useless actually on popular end grain. I know, we don't glue end grain, not without cross wedges, but I honestly thought it would hold. Go figure..

Mark, it's not that the the glue shows, but it's just good practice to use the colored glue with the type of wood, especially if you are going natural all the way.

Using light or white glue on a walnut project is generally not a good idea, IMHO.

 

 

I'm probably a little old fashioned, don't ever recall using white glue on wood.
I have had something to do with it though, we donate our "safe" wood scraps for Cherokee school, the kids build stuff, with white glue. :-)

Sorry Mark, semantics, yellow or light colored glue then, it's good practice to not use yellow glue on walnut or other dark species.

Brought up from the Archives, there is a wonderful gentlemen's debate in this discussion.

47 minutes ago, John Morris said:

Brought up from the Archives, there is a wonderful gentlemen's debate in this discussion.

And a very nice one to bring up again.

 

To answer the OP's questions:

I use TB III for almost all of my projects. I also have used TB's molding glue for some trim - WORKS GREAT. I also try to keep some CA in the fridge (can't remember the brand). I also use a 3m spray adhesive for patterns and such. And I use TB I with water to seal the edges of MDF prior to painting or what have you.