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  • Author

So I think I've got a pretty decent start on the 2x4 pepper mill.  I did get some tear out chunks in some spots but I think what I"m going to do is pick up some wood paste from home depot soon and fill those with the paste that should hopefully do the trick before I sand anything.  I've found that turning 2x4s requires a much higher speed to get a better bite with the gouge.  So far its working.  This one I will have to bore out but the forstner bits should be here at some point this afternoon.  I do need to get the extensions yet still.  Not quite sure which end I want to be my top and which end I want to be the bottom of the mill.  But this will also be good I'll get to set up the new jig on this one.  Didn't think this project needed a new post just add it to the pepper mill thread.

 

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  • A couple of things come to mind. For the top, with the the 1/4" hole, Make a sacrificial block that will fit into your chuck. It can be square or round. Drill a 1/4" hole in its center. Using a 1/4" b

  • No Jokes, this is a family site    Looks like you had a really good start. Sorry, I should have added a few more process shots.   I turn the tenon in the top and make sure it fits t

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  • Author

I can only assume that this isnt going to turn out to be a good thing.  I rounded the blank.  It is 2 2x4s glued together.  How ever I did use more glue with this one plus a longer curing time  But I'm still having problems with it cracking.  I would like to make a mill from 2x4s just because but I'm almost thinking maybe its too cold for the glue even at 45 degrees since I'm not in a heated work space.   So I'm considering giving it another go at it and gluing up a couple more blanks but instead of using wood glue this next one using maybe epoxy to secure them together.  I'm almost wondering if that would work a lot better.

 

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if you can't get that back apart to re-glue, try some nice thin "super" in the slot and clamp it well.

  • Author

I didn't have any thin CA so I had to order some I'll give that a go before I try the wood filler

 

  • Author

Alrighty I think I've got this thing figured out.  Only have of the blank is as I would say not having enough glue and starting to crack down the two sides how ever my Thin CA glue should be here at any time...  But I think I've made some progress.  I've also come to realize that with blanks you definately want speeds above 1K rpm for best outcome.  I swapped the belt positions this morning and gave it ago worked quite well...  Especially when it came to boring out the holes with the forstner bits.  I got as far as I could with it today since I do not have any extensions for them as of yet that will have to wait until Monday before I can order them.  How ever they worked quite well at speeds above 1K.  Either way slowly but surely and speaking of which the CA glue just got dropped off NICE.

 

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  • Author

Sadly I think this piece is going to get scrapped I didn't get the alignment of the holes correctly on either side no matter.  I've got another blank on the way I may get some poplar board on Monday as well and start fresh again with that.

1 hour ago, AndrewB said:

I didn't get the alignment of the holes correctly on either side

I found that if I drill all the holes before turning the outside round, a slight amout of error will be turned away as the blank spins on the slightly off axis.

  • Author

I think I'm going to try that next time.  I just need to order the extensions I need for the forstner bits

 

  • Author

I had just enough material for another blank I think I need to add a piece of ply in this batch.  Its poplar and ply board.  That should make for an interesting combo.  I'm wondering if I should add the ply board  on both sides so its even.  Ply board Poplar Plyboard Poplar Plyboard.  Should work out I also should have enough ply board for that.  I will still have to buy extensions for the bits but either way its worth a shot.  Should make for an interesting finished product.  Not only that since I keep the house at a good 70 plus degrees during cold weather I figured that would be better off for the glue to cure.

 

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agree about the temperature. Laminated pieces can give you some really neat patterns when turned. 

 

I had a whole bunch of scraps and glued them into a long blank.

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I made a set of crush grind salt and pepper units. The crush grind mechanisms didn't have the adjustment nut on top.

 

When I put the second blank on the lathe I accidently turned it end for end. Once I started turning, it was too late to reverse it. When they were finished, they were mirror images. Happy accident

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I wish The tops would have been a little more of a sphere shape.

 

  • Author

Yea this is just an experimental I think the problems may just be with the 2x4s I've never had issues with ply board or rough cut stock it will still be a bit before I am able to get a hold of the bit extensions but that will happen next week.  I think the other issue I was having as well was the simple fact that my alingment was messed up because I went from opposite ends instead of the one end.  Either way I think it should work.

  • Author

I changed up the pattern seeing that the glue was still wet and I was able to pry apart the pieces of wood.  I decided on ply board poplar ply board poplar ply IMG_1143.JPG.0948e2a0bd0838da062770a1bf2b6e70.JPGboard.  So now its thick enough for a solid pepper mill body and blank.  Had to make a quick home depot run and pick up some wood glue I wound up running out.

 

  • Author

Well now I'm absolutely frustrated.  I know i left this glue to cure longer than needed for it.  Either way I thought this was going to be a nice piece....

 

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I honestly did really like the way it was going to look with the poplar ply board pattern.  So I kept going with it and sure enough when I cranked up the speed on the lathe to 1230 RPM the danged thing popped in half and right back up at my face and nailed me.  Fortunately it didn't hurt or leave a mark or get me in the eye.  For 1230 RPM I would have expected it to do more damage....

 

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In the end the piece is now in halves...

 

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beyond irritated with doing lamented pieces of wood....  So I chucked it in the yard waste bin....

 

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beyond irritated with it...  I'm sticking to solid pieces of wood.  NO MORE lamination unless I'm doing resin.  I'm sick of having projects blow apart on me.  This one could have been farm worse and could have landed myself in the ER.  Fortunately not this time.  Got to be more careful I can't afford hospital bills right now LOL.  But at least I can laugh it off.

Just asking, the "unstuck surfaces", is the glue hard? From the picture it looks wet. If it is dried, I think the pieces were not clamped tight enough or the clamps loosened before the glue dried. Also, are you spreading the glue into a thin layer, or a serpentine pattern before gluing?  

  • Author

It was quite dry on touch this morning. I was doing that yes but then I took a brush and covered the entire surface.

If the boards were properly surfaced and then glued and clamped properly the excess glue would squeeze out.  Even though it came apart the gobs of glue showing on the boards should not be there.  95% of that glue should have squeezed out on a well prepared joint.  What are you using to surface the boards before gluing?

 

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NAT (not a turner)  but I have to ask: is it common to use plywood for a turned object?   It seems to me the grain orientation alternating and the usual inner lamination voids are going to cause problems.  Maybe Baltic birch, but not the Chinese crap plywood.

 

I do see gaps and a thick glue line.   These types of glues do not fill gaps and will leave weak spots.   Also, IMO, way too much glue to have that much squeeze out.  In addition, a thick glue line will take a very long time to evaporate off the moisture in the glue.

 

And the guys that I work work at the furniture bank know better of me.  I do not like the term "Pre-drill"   I cannot figure out how to "pre" drill something.   I just drill holes.   Sometimes they are pilot holes and sometimes not.  Sorry, just a pet peeve.

  • Author

Its probably all operator error.

25 minutes ago, kmealy said:

NAT (not a turner)  but I have to ask: is it common to use plywood for a turned object?

 

Plywood can be turned, @Steve Krumanaker makes ornaments using it often.  It should be a good brand of plywood like you suggest.  Box store plywood has been known to come apart because it isn't glued well at the factory.

 

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31 minutes ago, HandyDan said:

 

Plywood can be turned, @Steve Krumanaker makes ornaments using it often.  It should be a good brand of plywood like you suggest.  Box store plywood has been known to come apart because it isn't glued well at the factory.

 

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Thanks for the nod Dan. I do make ornaments using plywood but I only use baltic birch plywood, usually from Rockler. It is quite a lot more expensive than the big boxes but there are no voids and I don't have to scrap any of  it because of de-lamination. Much more economical in the long run.

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