You asked me for pics of the tool rest position.  I did the best I could with the angles and to get a comparison of how the chisel sat on the rest with the lathe turned off of course.  It's still a bit on the bumpy side but once I started carving into the bowl itself it seemed to stabilize more not sure if that's because I'm cutting further down into the meat of the wood or what.  I also tried to dress up the outside a bit better since I've got drill power sanding stuff coming this morning at some point.

Take a look at this video, might be helpful.

 

 

Edited July 22, 20205 yr by Gunny

OK-

 

FIRST, bring the tailstock up against the inside of the bowl. That provides support while hollowing. It's hard to see in this picture but you leave a "post" in the center of your hollowing section until you get most of the interior hogged out.

 

 

SECOND- your tool rest position is good for now but as you remove the interior  you'll need to position the tool rest so the end is setting within the bowl hollowing area to keep it close to the wood.

 

 

Edited July 22, 20205 yr by lew

That's probably a majority of the problem right there.  I'll re adjust for that, I'm just waiting on my 60 degree tail stock chuck to get in should be here this morning as well at some point.

Couple of better pix-

 

 

 

Notice the end of the tool rest in the first picture. As the depth of the hollowing increases, you move the end of the tool rest further into the hollowed area. This keeps the tool rest closer to the material and helps with tool control. It you have those "curved" tool rests, this is when you would put them into play.

The tool rest is a bit thick to move into the hollowed area so I usually have to swap tool rests I'm going to be doing some hunting for a medium to short tool rest specifically for that.

Cannot tell why you are getting such a rough surface on hollowing but that is not uncommon. Just smooth it out with the scraper you have.

 

As to the wobble on remount this is a common thing but there are some things you can do to help both the causes and the effect.

      Causes may be : 1. tenon not cut square or bottoming out in chuck

                               2. fuzz or sawdust on tenon or in chuck jaws

                               3. failure to seat tenon squarely into the chuck jaws, to solve this use one finger or thumb in the center of the blank when mounting in chuck to put pressure towards headstock and seat tenon square.

                               4. headstock and tailstock out of alignment

 

       Effects from all of the above is that the shape you turned between centers is a bit out of square and therefor causes a wobble when reversed. So in addition to fixing the above errors you will want to allow enough wood on blank so if this happens you can come back with scraper or use bowl gouge for shear scrape to retrue the outside shape . If you do not true the rim before hollowing you will and a rim thicker on one side than the other. There ways to fix that rim problem just not going there today.

Here's what I mean about the curved tool rest-

That's exactly what I was shopping for lol Ive been hunting for a good one.  Just having difficulty finding them with a 1 inch diameter post.

 

Edited July 22, 20205 yr by AndrewB

Okay @lew and @Gerald  This is the point where you guys get to say to me well we hate to say but we told ya so on this one.  So simply the top portion of the bowl wasn't as well trued as I thought it was.  As soon as I smoothed out that the wobble went away.  Before I did that I had just popped in the 60 degree chuck into the tail stock and locked that in.  100 times more stable.  Gah should of been doing that all along.  Its a bit on the awkward side of things trying to get in there with tools to hollow out.  I've still got some sanding to do on the outside yet how ever I wanted to give that a go with having that set with the tail stock locked in there carving into it and leaving a pillar for support in the middle of the bowl.  This way seems to be working so I think I'll be continuing to do it.  As far as removing that when the time comes i'll have to figure that one out.  As you can see with this short vid there is no wobble now.

 

https://www.thewoodturningstore.com/oneway-curved-toolrest-1-post-general-purpose-short-post/

 

https://www.thewoodturningstore.com/oneway-curved-toolrest-1-post-general-purpose-long-post/

 

2 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

Okay @lew and @Gerald  This is the point where you guys get to say to me well we hate to say but we told ya so on this one.  So simply the top portion of the bowl wasn't as well trued as I thought it was.  As soon as I smoothed out that the wobble went away.  Before I did that I had just popped in the 60 degree chuck into the tail stock and locked that in.  100 times more stable.  Gah should of been doing that all along.  Its a bit on the awkward side of things trying to get in there with tools to hollow out.  I've still got some sanding to do on the outside yet how ever I wanted to give that a go with having that set with the tail stock locked in there carving into it and leaving a pillar for support in the middle of the bowl.  This way seems to be working so I think I'll be continuing to do it.  As far as removing that when the time comes i'll have to figure that one out.  As you can see with this short vid there is no wobble now.

 

 

We NEVER say "we told you so". 

Well either way that worked and is no longer wobbling.  Its just awkward working there with the tail stock right there in the way of everything.

3 minutes ago, lew said:

We NEVER say "we told you so". 

Exactly.  I read it and was more like,  

You should be able to find a 1" steel post and some half inch rod to make your own curved tool rests

 

3 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

Well either way that worked and is no longer wobbling.  Its just awkward working there with the tail stock right there in the way of everything.

Once you get most of the material hogged out- especially along the outer walls, you can break off the "post" and finish without the tail stock. Just use light cuts and avoid putting a lot of outward pressure on the sides of the turning

I'll figure somethin out for that hopefully.  Unless I can find one pre made LOL my tools don't always come out the best if I make them.

I just rewatched your last video. Just commenting on what I see, so I may be way off here.

 

It looks like you may have reached the limit of the Easy Wood Easy Start Tools; with the tool rest in its shown position. You can go deeper, with those tools, by repositioning the banjo and your current tool rest so that the right end of the tool rest is "inside" the bowl. The tool rest will probably be at about a 45° angle to the plane of the open part of the bowl. This configuration permits more support of the turning tool by getting the tool rest a little closer to the inside profile of the bowl.

 

 

I've done about as much as I could, I've only got about a half inch or so left to carve before I have to completely stop I've gotta work out how to get that support pillar out of there.  I was using my PSI hollowing stuff to get in deeper.   How ever at this point I don't really have any tear outs at all which is a good thing so I think I'm starting to get the hang of things.  Every time I tried to take the tool into and cut into the pillar it would just bounce back at me and catch so I'm tryin to work that one out still.  I stood for as long as I could today knees wont take much more.

Yes looking lots better. As far as knocking out that center post My opinion is the sooner you get the confidence the better. The last 1/2 inch of turning as a good place to consider. When you are ready to remove it that will give you a better flow of cut from rim to center and get a better finish. Now how to remove. If you get it as thin as in Lew's pic then just rap it with the gouge and it will break out. To get it that thin I cut it with either bowl or spindle gouge. If you do not feel confident in that use a pullsaw but getting stubb out is harder then. You can then either use push cut at base or place gouge at top center of stub and turn it down.