So going back to the hollowing troubles I had I put that on the back burner for now.  My purple heart and padauk blanks arrived this morning.  I decided to run with the purple heart not having the right sort of mask I don't think at least for the Padauk.  I've been running the blanks that I get right off the bat, so far I have NOT had any issues with working on them with the wax sealer on.  In fact it actually makes it easier getting the sealer off just carving into it.  So I think I've been prety lucky on that part of it.  How ever I was expecting the purple heart to be a bit moist with the sealer on it... how ever I was dead wrong on that assumption it is dry as a bone.  Not sure if I bit off more than I could chew being a noob turner.  Yep using EWT rougher on this one and its working beautifully.  I've got a rough idea in mind for this one since I want to do an actual BOWL instead of a cup like bowl.  This is the 6x6x3 I ordered so I think that should give me plenty to round it down and put a tenon rather than mortise onto it.  For some reason I've always been quite fond of purpleheart.  But not sure if I should even be trying to attempt this but I'm crazy enough to.  (I do apologize for the double thread today.)

Edited July 21, 20205 yr by AndrewB

The EWT rougher works best when the amount of material taken off is about half the width of the cutter (or a little less). You probably noticed a lot of "chatter" when you first started and that's typical when the blank is square. You could reduce that some by converting the square into an octagon using a table saw or bandsaw. 

https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/right-on-octagons/

 

 

I forget if you said whether or not you have a bandsaw.

 

@Gerald mentioned sometime back about the outside shape of your turnings. Now that you have what will be the open end of the bowl sized, try to bring the tenon end to a little smaller diameter making a graceful curve from what will be the open end to the bottom. Aim for something like this-

 

With a 6" x 3"  bowl you probably won't be able to achieve quite this much curve but you can see the graceful arc of the side.

 

 

Don't worry about how many threads you post! We live for this stuff!

Edited July 21, 20205 yr by lew

57 minutes ago, lew said:

I forget if you said whether or not you have a bandsaw.

Me either.  BUT if you do have a bandsaw you use a compass and make a circle on your blank and cut a rough circle.  This will be much easier to turn down on the lathe.  Less sawdust for sure!

 

I typically cheat and use my Bandsaw Circle cutting jig.  This gives me a fairly round start on a piece before I take it to the lathe.  Any size bandsaw can have a jig made for this.  You can cobble one together quickly or make it as fancy as you like.  I also have used my hexagon jig on the tablesaw.  Fairly easy to do.  

 

For reference here is mine.  It can easily cut a 26 inch diameter circle.  So this jig is useful for lathe work as well as other projects that might come up.  Cause ya never know.   

 

  

 

It did chatter quite a bit but I managed to get it carved down for the most part now no chatter.  Just got to work on the tenon for bowl so I have a place to lock the chuck on to.  I don't have a table saw yet and sadly no bandsaw blades at the moment I have to get some.

It seems to be a bit wobbly still towards the face plate.  Hopefully the tenon is right lol I don't want to have to carve down any further on that side.  I just have to work on the curve of it and some how straighten out the woblble before I even think about mounting it to the chuck.  I dont want it to be wobly mounted on there.  So not quite sure how to fix that as of yet.  I can only trim off so much material.

 

 

That’s really not bad at all. It is not unusual for a turning to be “perfectly” round on the faceplate and when reversed to the chuck to run a bit out of round and need a bit of rework. 

 

Thanks for the video 

 

A bandsaw blade would save lots of roughing time

Edited July 22, 20205 yr by lew

Usually for me that is always the case of needing rework.

Here's what I meant about the more graceful curved side

 

The black line shows a more gently arced side.

Yep that's actually what I've been trying to work on is the curve to the bowl.  I'll be out back at it again in the morning.  Ah yea I did get some drill bit sanding stuff so no more hand sanding for a while except on the inside of the bowl.  But that's actually the shape I was aiming for or trying to aim for at least.

Absolutely beautiful wood.  And, you are progressing very well, Andrew. I am proud of you.  

I think I've finally got the desired curve to the bowl that I want.  I think once the tenon is smoothed off it will look a lot better.  Now to hurry up and wait for my sanding disc and drill attachment to get in so I can sand the outside of this thing.  Hollowing should go a lot better with this project.

Looking good Andrew.  Purpleheart is tough to turn and tough on tools.  Constant sharpening is required while working it.

So far th is morning I spent most of it sanding Not sure what to make of the wobbliness I'm hoping it doesnt effect the hollowing process because I plan on starting that here shortly.  Its roughly sanded to 400 grit on the outside.  I will be finalizing the bottom after the hollow out using the cole jaws later on.  So that will be re done but in the mean time not sure what to do about the wobble.  I don't want to completely re design what I've done.

 

That's typical when you reverse a turning. I'd ignore it. Start by facing off what will be the "open" end then proceed to the inside.

 

KEEP THE TAIL STOCK UP AGAINST THE TURNING WHEN YOU START!

Edited July 22, 20205 yr by lew

That's what usually causes me to sometimes get the catches on the inside while hollowing out as well.  My bowl gouge should be here in a few days as well.  Can't wait to give the HSS one a try out on hollowing.  Not sure if that will make things easier.  For now I'll be using the EWT with the negative rake.  I guess with my ocd its a bit hard to ignore the wobble LOL I'll have to get used to it.

One thing you can do, in the future, is after turning the outside remove the faceplate, reverse and rechuck, touch up any slight wobble and THEN sand.

36 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

Not sure what to make of the wobbliness

How did you dress this edge out?  If it was not dead flat when you put in in the cole jaws it will be slightly off, giving a bit of wobble.  

 

That may well solve it although wouldn't that take a lot of material on the way I will be trying that with the Padauk blank I have as well. I used the EWT Negative Rake Finisher to do that work.

Edited July 22, 20205 yr by AndrewB

I think some of the catches may be due to the position of your tool rest. Once you start, if you get a catch, post a picture or video of your setup so we can get a better idea of just what's happening.

Fair enough I'll do that after a bit.