If it has electronic speed control, I think I’d investigate while it’s still on warranty 

It does drop below 800 when I start cutting into the material or sanding not sure why it does that.  The lathe is rated at lowest 750 to I think 3200 RPM at the most. If worst comes to worst, what I will do is save up some money and just order a Delta since you guys haven't had any issues with them.  It may wind up being worth it in the long run. 

Edited July 19, 20205 yr by AndrewB

@AndrewB,

Thanks for posting your last photo, now I see what you mean about the tenon with the chuck.

I've never used that approach myself. I've only ever used a jawed chuck for metal work, and that was long ago.

I think @lew is now using a Jet lathe, he wore out his old Delta.

 

My old (1941) Delta would probably drive most of you guys nuts with having to change belt positions for speed changes, and that's with multiple belts/pullies and line-shafts to get speeds much slower, and a bit higher then you have specified.

 

Edited July 19, 20205 yr by Larry Buskirk

56 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

when I start cutting into the material or sanding not sure why it does that.

This is more for others that happen to be looking in on the thread.

 

 

I often see this at work when guys try to use the brake lathe.  They insist on taking several thousands of a inch off on a single pass and it loads up the lathe.  Couple thousands, or a very light cut produces better results and takes less time because I don't have to go back and take another 4 passes because it chattered.  So my question is how hard are you shoving the blade into the wood?  When sanding are you wrapping the sandpaper around the piece and pulling back?

 

Often times you will see 1st time pen turners do all the above AND run the lathe at 3200 rpm.  You know faster is better right?  And then they try acrylics and it chatters and melts making a mess and usually destroying the blank.  

1 hour ago, AndrewB said:

not sure why it does that. 

Start looking into the why.  No I am not being a jerk, seriously you should explore and learn as much about how the lathe works and why as possible.  I have older machines that work fine, because I have the manual and when something is wrong I find it and fix it.  

 

1 hour ago, AndrewB said:

what I will do is save up some money and just order a Delta since you guys haven't had any issues with them

 

Sure a bigger lathe is a good upgrade but before just ordering explore your options.  I will often buy a lesser grade tool and see how much I actually use it.  If it starts to be more than casual use I will consider a better one.  If not, then I get away with more $$ in my pocket for other stuff.  I had a HF trim router for 21 years.  It finally gave up the ghost.  Bought another one, the newer HF one.  Sure I use it, but not so often I need to spent more.  Took 21 years to kill the 1st one. 

 

 

Delta was sold in 1999, since then the quality of the product has never been the same.  @lew can tell you of the issues he had to work with having owned his.  But I know a guy that has the bigger HF lathe and he turns all the time as a side job.  Sure he has issues but he has been able to upgrade or replace poor quality parts and keep his running.  Because he knows his machine.  He loves the thing.  Also has a small JET 10x12  I sold him few years back, that also stays busy making smaller items.  Only thing he has done is change the belt once.  It is not variable speed.

 

It is a learning curve.  You only get better as you actually do.  Most people talk and think about getting a lathe, never happens.  Or buy one and it doesn't produce the result they want 1st time so they give up.  Having watched me use the lathe my son thought it was easy.  So I let him give it a whirl making a dowel out of some oak.  Found out real quick is was much more difficult than what he observed watching me.  Probably should have filmed that, was very entertaining. The expression on his face was priceless.  

I think I may have found the problem of WHY the lathe hasn't dropped below 800.  For some reason the belt does NOT want to slide all the way to the edge of the drive wheel for some reason when changing the variable speed knob.  So I'll have to figure out some way of fixing this issue.  The belt looked still in pretty good shape no issues there.  But maybe the belt is off?  Not sure.  I'll have to look into it more.

Not unusual for a smaller lathe to lose some RPMs when under a load. My old Delta with Reeves drive did it, too, and it had a 1hp motor. It was especially noticeable on hollowing operations. My Bridgewood (similar to Grizzly) was the same way. 

 

I'm not sure what the manufacturer's specs on RPMs are for your Cole Jaws. I have gotten into the habit of adding strapping tape over my turnings when using mine. Especially if the shape of the turning doesn't contact the rubber bumpers fully.

I'll have to look into that.  But there is a safety warning on the jaws themselves that says do not run above 800 RPM.  So that's why it had me a bit on the safety cautious side of things.  Not to mention @lew the tape suggestion or tip rather, may come in quite handy because soon enough here after I get finished with staining and putting the resin coatings on the bowl cup it will be time to swap out to cole jaws on the chuck to cut off the tenon.  So hopefully things will work out and I can manage.

Edited July 19, 20205 yr by AndrewB

Okay NEVER USING BRUSHES FOR OILS OR VARNISHES AGAIN!!  Paper Towels all the way.  You can get plenty on a towel and then wipe it onto the project nicely and clean off the excess oil or varnish.  Should of started doing this along time ago.  I don't ever recall doing it as a kid in high school woodshop.  Either way I also added in a second coat of resin.  Not quite sure if I need a third coating or not if 2 is going to be good.  But believe it or not I've got 3 coats of varnish on the outside.  I'm happy with this.  Tomorrow the tenon comes off.

1 hour ago, AndrewB said:

I'll have to look into that.  But there is a safety warning on the jaws themselves that says do not run above 800 RPM.  So that's why it had me a bit on the safety cautious side of things.  Not to mention @lew the tape suggestion or tip rather, may come in quite handy because soon enough here after I get finished with staining and putting the resin coatings on the bowl cup it will be time to swap out to cole jaws on the chuck to cut off the tenon.  So hopefully things will work out and I can manage.

When up get ready to use the Cole jaws. Run the lathe with just the jaws- no bowl mounted. If things run quietly- no shake, rattle or roll- that will be a good sign.

 

Nice sanding job on the outside of that latest bowl!

@lew  When I first got them, I hooked them up to the chuck with the regular chuck jaws mounted on top of them with the longer allen screws.  I ran it up on the lathe and no rattling noise what so ever on it so that was pretty decent.  From what I heard at least.  How ever with just the cole jaws on them by themselves I'll have to re run that test again and spin it up and see if it rattles or not.  But the last time I ran it up I heard no rattling.   I only sanded it to 400 even skipped a couple of grit numbers on that.  But I spent extra time with the sand paper on it and thanks.

10 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

@lew  When I first got them, I hooked them up to the chuck with the regular chuck jaws mounted on top of them with the longer allen screws.  I ran it up on the lathe and no rattling noise what so ever on it so that was pretty decent.  From what I heard at least.  How ever with just the cole jaws on them by themselves I'll have to re run that test again and spin it up and see if it rattles or not.  But the last time I ran it up I heard no rattling.   I only sanded it to 400 even skipped a couple of grit numbers on that.  But I spent extra time with the sand paper on it and thanks.

Ok a point on using cole jaws to remove tenon. It is best to keep the tailstock up til down to a very small nub. Always take small cuts and use cut toward headstock ot toward center of tenon. DO NOT use pull cut to outside as it will pull bowl off jaws. Another way to remove tenon is to just sand it off, but then you cannot embellish that area without remounting.

 

I am thinking you are taking way too large a bite with your gouges and carbide. Small bites are both safer and will give a cleaner cut with less tearout. By the way tear out is what those rings inside your tuening is.

Hmmm good point.  I was going slow with it but sometimes it would catch pretty good on the inside.  The hollowing tools have quite the learning curve with them.  But most of the time the didn’t catch, it would only happen when I put the tool in further to carve that section out.

10 hours ago, AndrewB said:

Well this one is turning out quite nicely.  Bit of a MINOR problem how ever, my lathe does not seem to want to go below 800.  Not sure exactly why.  But I am a bit concerned about that when I go to use the cole jaws for cutting down the tenon and finishing off the bottom of the cup/bowl.  I'm not sure if it will be safe enough for me to even use because of those issues with the lathe.  Not too huge of a deal.

It really is two things, accuracy of cut or whether you use the tailstock as a Jamb chuck. You could use a softer scrap wood on the end piece inside and move the tailstock up to that. This is assuming want to work on the outside. 
If wanting to work on inside, make or get you a steady rest for the piece to rest on while turning. Nothing will give you 100% success but those are my thoughts. 
I just noticed a blue piece by the lathe, if it isnt thin, you may be able to use it on inside.  

Edited July 20, 20205 yr by Charles Nicholls
More info

Oh LOL the blue piece is actually the head band of my face shield. 

Chuck all set up with cole jaws just making sure there is no rattling with the set up putting it together.  Also doing a test fit.  Okay now with the main chuck jaws off the chuck and cole jaws only I'm not debating on it anymore now that I see it holds quite tightly against the piece even with the stock stoppers.  I wouldn't mind investing in some longer rubber stoppers for the cole jaws.  But it seems to be okay for me at the moment.  I'll have to run a spin up test with and with out a jam chuck and see how it does.  If I can get away with out having a jam chuck then sweet.  Although no big deal if I need one.  The tail stock live center chuck I have is the stock live center as well so that one will be a bit tricky to negotiate.  Fortunately now knowing the taper size of the chucks I can order what ever type for the lathe that I would need I did pick up a 60 degree live center on the smaller side so that should be a bit easier to work with when I get it later this week.  Either way today is the removal day.

Penn State sells longer pins for cole jaws and they are quite effective.

I'll have to check them out later thanks @Gerald, I'll be giving the stock rubber stoppers today if they don't hold out I'll be getting some from Penn State.

Okay I'm impressed.  They did they job NICELY.  The stoppers worked held the project tightly.  I was able to cut down the tenon and have a nice flat surface on the bottom.  Wen I get the 6x6x3s I will round the bottoms on those.  How ever... got the bottom sanded down and first coat of varnish on.  I will probably have to sand the top where the rubber stoppers are and put another coat of varnish on but no big deal there.  Easy to deal with.  On this one it spun up lovely, it didn't fly off of the lathe like I was half way expecting it to.  No rattle noises or clanging metal noises.  I'm feeling a bit better about using these now.  So far SO GOOD.  Ah yea and NO jam chuck was necessary.  No more sanding off tenons for me.

Edited July 20, 20205 yr by AndrewB

While it's on there, it would be a great time to touch up the transition area between the sides and the bottom. Your EWT finisher or rougher, with a very light touch can smooth it up.