October 24, 20196 yr 9 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said: Success! If you've followed my hinge saga for the drop down drawer front I've got everything figured out. To get the effect of the drawer front being 1/8" lower than the tray, I need to use 1/2" material for the tray and 3/4" material for the drawer front (OK, 12mm for the tray and 16MM for the front). Next the 1 3/16" forstner wasn't working, the hole is far to sloppy for the hinges (too big), soo I wound up buying a Fisch 30 MM bit. This one is Austrian, and the quality difference versus the Chinese bit (1 3/16" is considerable...it's also HSS. Then setting the DP fence precisely 8.5mm from the edge of the work pieces was a PITA, these hinges require a little more precision than typical for woodworking. But after all that you can see my test pieces (notice the several test holes) open/close the way i want for the desk. I probably have to put this on hold for some yard work at the moment, but I'm leaviung the DP set up for when I can get back to this, and maybe get the thing ready for finishing. Looks good Fred, If all else fails you might try making a template and routing the hinge mortise. Herb
October 26, 20196 yr Author Popular Post OK, got the frame together and proved I can have an inset drop down drawer front. I didn't think I was going to get this figured out. Even then the drawer front isn't perfectly centered side to side so i screwed something up; not sure if I'll try to fix it or not.
October 27, 20196 yr Popular Post 1 hour ago, lew said: Those are a real pain to do. Saw a $300,000 house that had them in the bathrooms, UPSIDE DOWN. Was interesting listening to the Realtor explain that one. My friend did not buy the house.
October 27, 20196 yr Author Popular Post So, I was able to get this far yesterday. The corbels are too long for this desk, but it was a pattern i had on hand from a pst project...I decided to just use them instead of make a new one. I have a question: the edge treatment for the desk top. Typically on A&C type stuff I would bevel the underside to get a thinner edge and then put just a slight chamfer on the top edge. I could do that to this top but I'd have to use hand planes to do it (that's OK). What I'm ;less sure of is whther the overhang in the front would be more than I want...so here's my question: does A&C ever have bull nosed edges? Is there another treatment I'm unaware of?
October 27, 20196 yr That's a beautiful piece, Fred. Most of the A&C table tops and desks I've seen have square, un altered edges But hey, it's your desk. a slight easing of the bottom of the top might look great. A slight sanding of the top edges would make it more user friendly, too. Edited October 27, 20196 yr by Gene Howe
October 27, 20196 yr ...I don't know how well a bull-nosed edge would look with the rest of the desk. A&C always seems to have a square cornered edge look. Edited October 27, 20196 yr by Larry Buskirk
October 27, 20196 yr Author Popular Post Yeah, I've went ahead and started doing the easing of the edges. Seems like I saw another one that had bullnosed edges...and it didn't seem to match the style. So I'm getting some time with my planes.
October 27, 20196 yr Author Popular Post Arts and Crafts. Well, the easing is done...all that's left is the staining (something I hate doing)and finishing....and sweeping up the mess. Because this is red oak, I'll be using a dark gel stain and filling the pores on the top, then some Cabot 8000 varnish. The smoothing of the top will take some work, it never seems to go as fast for me as it does for others.
October 27, 20196 yr Looks great, and you will thank yourself later for rounding those edges. A&C or not sharp edges cut easily.
October 28, 20196 yr 21 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said: Arts and Crafts. Well, the easing is done...all that's left is the staining (something I hate doing)and finishing....and sweeping up the mess. Because this is red oak, I'll be using a dark gel stain and filling the pores on the top, then some Cabot 8000 varnish. The smoothing of the top will take some work, it never seems to go as fast for me as it does for others. in place of staining red oak look into dying red oak then using the stain to highlight the grain if desired.
October 29, 20196 yr Author I've got z clips and figure 8 washers. I'm leaning to the z clips, but may change my mind...I cut the slots for the clips just in case.
October 30, 20196 yr 17 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said: I've got z clips and figure 8 washers. I'm leaning to the z clips, but may change my mind...I cut the slots for the clips just in case. Just out of curiosity Fred, why would you choose one over the other?
October 30, 20196 yr Author Popular Post Gene, I have more of the z clips on hand. I've had good results with both...though I do prefer the figure 8 washers. But i bought a box of 100 of the z clips so I'm likely going to use them. One other thing, if you groove the apron parts, you can put the z clips anywhere you want...with the washers you have to pre-plan and drill the recesses for the washers. I have enough trouble thinking ahead on projects, so any reduction of that requirement is a good thing.
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.