my jigs stay natural. if it has any sliding edges (wood or metal on wood ) it gets a few coats of butchers wax.  Tools get boeshield.

 

My apprentice made these 4 drawer inserts.  He wanted to learn how so he can make his own.  This was a lesson in planning, as well as finishing techniques.  All of these are made from scraps so some had paint on them.  No problem for this shop project.

 

4 completed inserts.  Before any finishing.

 

 

This one gets no finish, no sanding.                        

 

    

 

This on has no finish inside and 120 grit sanding pass with ROS then paint on outside. Edges rounded over with sandpaper block.

 

 

This one has been sanded twice.  A pass with ROS at 12o, then second pass at 150.  Rounded edges then 3 coats lacquer inside, 3 coats paint outside.

 

 

Last one has been sanded 3 times, 120, 150 then 220.  Inside and out, rounded edges.  3 coats of paint.  Bottom was lined with vinyl.  No reason just some him some other things that can be done.

 

 

Once done I asked him to decide.  His response.  They all look good and for the shop who cares. His preference?  Looks better when you finish it all.  Reality? Well it does take a long time to paint and wait for it to dry.

 

A good lesson for him, and a visual for others.

 

A bonus, got the boxes for my drawers made and didn't have to do any finish work.  

 

Inserts in the drawer.

 

 

 

Dragon posted what I had in mind as I read this thread.  Any contact points which slide against each other gets a good coat of Johnson's or Minwax paste wax.  You can put on additional coats every few months.  

I also put this wax on all my metal surfaces where the wood slides as it makes it so much easier to saw or joint.  And, it does not transfer to the wood.  And, you'll be pleasantly surprised how it works on a saw blade.  

On 3/23/2019 at 9:38 AM, schnewj said:

On 3/22/2019 at 8:42 PM, sreilly24590 said:

And there you had to say it....sanding, the part I probably dislike the mostess. Just seems tedious and then you just keep getting finer and finer and well you know. I guess I'll just need to accept it as part of the process but I don't have to take it sitting down. 

 

...but it doesn't have to be tedious. When I use Shellac, which dries quickly, it is basically a quick once over to knock off the "nibs". You're not trying to sand everything level, smooth out the material, etc., that should have already been done. Basically, a "quick swipe" with the sandpaper, a quick tack wipe and your ready for the next coat.

 

If your real aversion is due to the mess from any sanding dust, try 3M non-woven pads. They are great for getting rid of the "nibs" with none of the sanding mess.

This may help...

 

COLOR CODES NON-WOVEN PADS.pdf 15.84 kB · 7 downloads

 

Agreed and I have both the disposable and EZ Mask for fine sawdust.

 

On 3/22/2019 at 9:05 PM, Dadio said:

It only takes a minute to go over it with a (I use a cloth-backed sanding disc) ,or a folded up piece of sand paper, or a block with some foam padding and paper wrapped around it. The second time it is faster and the 3rd time is really fast,but gives the finish some thing to grip.

Try it you will see.

HErb

 

Totally agree...

 

I think I put 6-7 coats on the workbench knowing it would take a beating....literally... but messed up using steel wool between coats and not getting it all off the surface.

 

On 3/23/2019 at 9:38 AM, schnewj said:

On 3/22/2019 at 9:23 PM, Woodbutcherbynight said:

How many have thrown a jig into the fire and later realized hey where is that thing.  Possible reason?  Unfinished it looked like nothing.  No color to remind you what it was really for, maybe not even a note to say what and why.  

 

Hmmm! Good point. Color coding jigs to specific tasks. Sort of like like how Festool uses green on anything that is made to be adjustable on the tool. Although, I don't keep many jigs around, they are usually made, used and repurposed, the ones that do remain sometimes  get "lost in the background" when hung on a wall of stuffed on a shelf. Color coding a certain jig as a visual cue, could guide you right to it.

 

That's something I clearly need to do as the jigs are getting to be all over the place. I'd prefer to keep those I can close to the tool of intended use but sometimes that's not as easy so labeling them with use, date, and the plan used makes sense.

9 hours ago, FlGatorwood said:

Dragon posted what I had in mind as I read this thread.  Any contact points which slide against each other gets a good coat of Johnson's or Minwax paste wax.  You can put on additional coats every few months.  

I also put this wax on all my metal surfaces where the wood slides as it makes it so much easier to saw or joint.  And, it does not transfer to the wood.  And, you'll be pleasantly surprised how it works on a saw blade.  

That was a lesson I learned early on. I started out using Glidecoat which works well but doesn't seem to last near as long as wax so it's not economical. I used it early on but switched to Johnson's Paste wax which lasted way longer. I recently bought a new can of Trewax Clear which I'm told is a very good wax to use on equipment metal surfaces and wood jigs. Make sure if you get it that it's the clear wax.

5 minutes ago, sreilly24590 said:

I think I put 6-7 coats on the workbench knowing it would take a beating....literally... but messed up using steel wool between coats and not getting it all off the surface.

To each his own, but I NEVER use steel wool to knock down a coat between applications. Those little bits of steel are almost impossible to get off. The non-woven pads have become my go-tos. Any stray fibers simply wipe off unless they lodge in a slivered piece of wood or a crack (and those should have been eliminate anyway). I save the steel wool for the final coat of wax after the finish is applied.

As I mentioned the steel wool was retired from service on all processes before last coat. Actually I don't think I've finished anything since that disappointment. It's still on the supply shelves but way back there....

44 minutes ago, sreilly24590 said:

As I mentioned the steel wool was retired from service on all processes before last coat. Actually I don't think I've finished anything since that disappointment. It's still on the supply shelves but way back there....

I can relate to that...

I think that maybe I've come to the realization that I'm in too much of a hurry to build and not finish. Of course that word for the process "finish" has two meanings. !st is to actually prepare and apply the finish and the 2nd naturally means to complete the project. If I put on my Daddy hat I realize I haven't been a good boy. I've started a ton of projects but haven't really finished any before moving on. The advice here has been solid. There is both a need to finish for both the practice and the protection. When I say "in too much of a hurry" that doesn't mean that I spend every possible moment in the shop but when I do get down there it's a push mentally to accomplish something and that to me translates to making sawdust. Catching up now is going to be painful is in ways just due to the amount that needs to be done. The miter station alone is loaded and will need to be emptied, at least a section at a time, for likely a week or more to complete the finish. I have the gallon of General Finishes High Performance Satin to use on this as well as a handful of sponge brushes. I first need to use the trim router and install a small roundover bit to ease the edges. Due to poor planning I won't be able to get the tight corners but it'll be a feature I guess, but I can take a sanding sponge and do some relief. Then on to sanding the plywood which is a bit sketchy for me. The laminate isn't nearly as thick as in the days of old so I need to be careful here. What is a reasonable grit on raw cabinet grade plywood? And go to what grit? I realize after the finish is applied I need light sanding between coats but that's effecting the bottom coats so the ply is protected as long as you don't sand through the finish. 

 

I had really planned on finishing my hardwood 3 in 1 stands that I'm building mainly because they are made of maple and this maple has a beautiful grain. Same with the maple I have for the wall hanging tool cabinet. The Plywood, well it's plywood but the miter station will most  likely take a beating over time so.....

 

Any hand holding here or just follow the directions on the can of finish? Looks like I'm going to the darkside for a while........

So after going to General Finishes website I have a few quick questions. 1st do I need to apply a sanding sealer before the topcoat on plywood, or any wood for that matter?

 

GF suggests using either 220 grit sanding pads or 400 grit sand paper to prep surface. Then clean off before applying coats. Is there a preference for cleaning off the sawdust? I don't think I have any tack cloths but have clean shop cloths and of course the shop vac and brush.

 

My shop stays about 68-70F and between 35-50% RH. Good enough to finish with the average 2 hour between coats?

 

Sorry to be a pain but if I'm going to do this I prefer it be right.

TTFWIW, but I only use a sanding sealer if I'm worried about stain or, any color, migrating. 

You can make your own tack cloth. This is the method I use. 

your temperature range is good as long as it stays there for the cure.

A hint.. folded kraft paper, like paper grocery bags, work very well to eradicate those little dust nubs you may get in each coat of finish. It doesn't scratch the final coat of finish like those mesh pads will. 

 

Thanks Gene, looks like I get started this afternoon....after the elliptical 

Edited March 31, 20197 yr by sreilly24590

1 hour ago, sreilly24590 said:

Due to poor planning I won't be able to get the tight corners but it'll be a feature I guess,

 

Use a small 3/8 square of some scrap wood and wrap 150 grit sandpaper around it.  Lets you get in tight spaces and do some sanding / shaping.  You can also use a dowel of various sizes to get inside corners such as inside of drawers.  

1 hour ago, sreilly24590 said:

So after going to General Finishes website I have a few quick questions. 1st do I need to apply a sanding sealer before the topcoat on plywood, or any wood for that matter?

 

GF suggests using either 220 grit sanding pads or 400 grit sand paper to prep surface. Then clean off before applying coats. Is there a preference for cleaning off the sawdust? I don't think I have any tack cloths but have clean shop cloths and of course the shop vac and brush.

 

My shop stays about 68-70F and between 35-50% RH. Good enough to finish with the average 2 hour between coats?

 

Sorry to be a pain but if I'm going to do this I prefer it be right.

@sreilly24590

 

For some excellent and extensive finishing methods and directions, go to the FINISHING sub-forum and look for Keith Mealy's tutorials. He did a great job covering the different means and methods. There is an extensive wealth of knowledge there.

23 minutes ago, schnewj said:

@sreilly24590

 

For some excellent and extensive finishing methods and directions, go to the FINISHING sub-forum and look for Keith Mealy's tutorials. He did a great job covering the different means and methods. There is an extensive wealth of knowledge there.

I SECOND THIS ADVICE!!!

So elliptical finished, lunch had (reason I need the elliptical) , and I installed a small roundover bit in my Bosch Colt. I hadn't even plugged it in since getting it but when they're on sale....anyway each square edge that my arms could com in contact with got rounded over and sanded with 400 grit sandpaper and a rubber molding square. The top and bottoms that were't able to get to the very tops and bottoms got sanded looking more like a roman column which is now how I planned it.....Roman Gothic is the style thie miter station was created. As is with mosyt of my stuff this is a one of a kind piece because I forgot how I made those mistakes....er..... I mean custom features.... 

 

I need to lightly sand the surfaces and then wipe down clean. I'll probably use one of my ROS with 320 or 400 grit. I have some tack clothes coming tomorrow and maybe I'll be able to get at least one coat on before heading to New York for the conference. For the moment I've only done the top two sections leaving the drawers alone for now. I had put a round over on those when I built them but they'll need sanding.

 

At least it's a start. Yeah, Roman Gothic style.......I like that!

 

Okay I used my Bosch ROS and 400 grit disc to sand all surfaces above the drawers. Some of the parts were made using prefinished plywood so it was extremely light on that. Tack towles due tomorrow but PT and date night will take some time so may not get much done. I did a vacuum with the brush and the dust collector but I need to run the surfaces down with at least the tack rags before putting one coat on. But it's a start.

19 hours ago, Stick486 said:

I SECOND THIS ADVICE!!!

I will third that!