21 minutes ago, sreilly24590 said:

There was no comparisons done so I take it as personal preference but worth the test to see what the difference would be.

 

every ROS and in line owner, ever, has already done this...

WTB they reach for the the ROS before they will the inline...

43 minutes ago, Dadio said:

What do you use the ROS for if not to sand?

It does a fair job brushing teeth.  So I hear.

I use ROS all the time and it is beautificous.  Yes, it leaves circles.  So, once the surface is smooth, I just give it a few licks in the grain direction with a sanding sponge.  The whole Thing about sanding grades is that each finer grade removes the grooves left by the prior grit, and that last step (in line) blends it all.

6 minutes ago, PeteM said:

It does a fair job brushing teeth.  So I hear.

I use ROS all the time and it is beautificous.  Yes, it leaves circles.  So, once the surface is smooth, I just give it a few licks in the grain direction with a sanding sponge.  The whole Thing about sanding grades is that each finer grade removes the grooves left by the prior grit, and that last step (in line) blends it all.

Seems expensive for just 2 teeth!

 

So would this be an argument for not using the ROS for the final sanding? And I guess the wood and finish would also show more if it were a darker stain and higher grain wood?

Mr. Bush is an over thinker and salesman...

ROS's were used on automotive finishing long before we started using them on WWing....

Stone/marble finishers.. same thing..

 

Get the magnifier out...

inlines leave squiggly lines..

finishing buffers are ROS design..

use your ROS w/ a wool bonnet sometime and look to your results...

same for an inline..

 

use both sanders any way you see fit on a slab of Granite or marble sometime..

use them w/ pumice while yur at it ...

does anybuddy still use a BLO/pumice mix w/ a chalk eraser applicator all done/worked in a circular motion???...

get back to us on the results...

 

Wood and wood grain IS NOT a consistent thing... Its all about its hard/soft and in between spots, wild grain, irregular rays, porousness, texture, sap/tannin content and a whole host of other variables not to mention punkiness...

 

Note:

tobacco ash makes for some world class finishing pumice...

volcano ash holds 2nd place..

sifted play sand makes for some pretty good coarse pumice too...

when all else fails use dried shark skin...

 

so...

now you know what my childhood was like and why I now sub this crap out..

CHRIST!!!,  Do my arms and shoulders ache now just from remembering all of this...

 

Mr. Herber Codger endorses this message...

 

41 minutes ago, PeteM said:

It does a fair job brushing teeth

 

in ultra-fine...

10 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

when all else fails use dried shark skin...

 

Ys of course I always have some handy.   

Also I should point out that this is all from memory, my memory, so there may be some differences in translations and accuracies. Or may be out of context....you see where this is going.....but another PDF.. 

Finishing with Bush Products - The Three Phase System Volume 1.pdf

20 hours ago, sreilly24590 said:

But the highlight was my first 5-10 minutes in the door. I went straight up to Alex Snodgrass and had a fantastic conversation with him. He was the person who put me on the straight and narrow with resawing. Talking to him and getting their guides for my saw was a huge thrill.

Glad that worked out for you...he's a salesman no doubt, but he really is a straight shooter with a wealth of knowledge & hands on experience. As you experienced, a very approachable person willing to give as much of his time a possible beyond the constraints of the show schedule.

20 hours ago, sreilly24590 said:

seemed like forever wait for the doors to open (28 minutes) with bathrooms only on the inside behind those locked doors. Shouldn't have had those 3 mugs of coffee......

Well grasshopper, lesson learned...rookie mistake we've all encountered at least once.

After you use the "Kit" be sure to give us an evaluation of the results. I hope it gives your good ones.

Herb

Used the trace coat method on both of these mesquite projects.  Pictures don't do them justice but, take my word for it, they are smooth as a baby's behind. 

7 hours ago, Stick486 said:

Get the magnifier out...

inlines leave squiggly lines..

finishing buffers are ROS design..

use your ROS w/ a wool bonnet sometime and look to your results...

same for an inline..

 

 

Great point. Most folks seem to forget how a straight line works. With the exception of belt sanders and automotive "air boards" all strait line sanders have an eccentric weight, that, wait for it, causes the paper to move in a circular motion. Just like a mini ROS.

 

The real trick is to follow the grit progression to the point, that, the final finish will fill and level any imperfections, even sanding marks. All finishes need a "tooth" to the surface (the only exceptions that come to mind are penetrating oils) so that the finish can grab onto the surface. (ask ANY auto body/paint guy about this). If you go too smooth, then some finishes can be prone to chipping, flaking or lifting.

 

The real problem is, that, most inexperienced finishers have a tendency to over use the ROS. In reality the less sanding the better. Again, grit progression is the real trick to a good finish.

Nobody's mentioned the jitterbug or palm sander. I have a couple for free, if anyone's interested. They undoubtedly have a purpose but, I'm not a fan. Sitting on the same shelf is a half sheet in line sander that could be added. A 6" RO covers as much real estate and is MUCH easier re load.

Edited March 25, 20197 yr by Gene Howe

1 hour ago, Gene Howe said:

Nobody's mentioned the jitterbug or palm sander. I have a couple for free, if anyone's interested. They undoubtedly have a purpose but, I'm not a fan. Sitting on the same shelf is a half sheet in line sander that could be added. A 6" RO covers as much real estate and is MUCH easier re load.

 

I rarely use my 1/4 sheet sanders. Well not true, exactly. I do keep one next to the scroll saw for occasional use. Otherwise, I rarely reach for any of my straight line sanders. Don't get me wrong, I do use them, but only in certain circumstances and situations. They do have a place.

 

As for my ROS's, when I was younger I used my air powered 6" DA automotive sander more then I will ever admit. However, this was before ROS's really became popular in woodworking circles.

 

Like you, Gene, the ROS is my first, go-to, choice. Much easier to load, change paper, switch grits, and get good results. I would much rather grab a disc and place it on the ROS then sit there and cut up sheets of sandpaper to get 1/2 and 1/4 sheets that still need to be trimmed to fit underneath the board clips.

13 hours ago, schnewj said:

 

The real trick is to follow the grit progression to the point, that, the final finish will fill and level any imperfections, even sanding marks. All finishes need a "tooth" to the surface (the only exceptions that come to mind are penetrating oils) so that the finish can grab onto the surface. (ask ANY auto body/paint guy about this). If you go too smooth, then some finishes can be prone to chipping, flaking or lifting.

 

No argument on the sander but Lacquer and Shellac do not need tooth to hold the next coat. No matter how many layer of shellac you apply it all becomes one layer. For Lacquer the next coat melts into the first.

11 minutes ago, Gerald said:

No argument on the sander but Lacquer and Shellac do not need tooth to hold the next coat. No matter how many layer of shellac you apply it all becomes one layer. For Lacquer the next coat melts into the first.

 

Target coatings has a water based poly that is supposed to do that too.

https://www.targetcoatings.com/

Herb

3 hours ago, Gerald said:

No argument on the sander but Lacquer and Shellac do not need tooth to hold the next coat. No matter how many layer of shellac you apply it all becomes one layer. For Lacquer the next coat melts into the first.

 

The other exceptions, thanks Gerald.

Give me a few days and I will post some small shop jigs my apprentice is painting, or using poly.  Had him sand each one a certain way and apply finish a certain way to give us some visuals.  NOT a pro job but hey he wanted a try at making some small boxes and I happen to need a few.  

15 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Give me a few days and I will post some small shop jigs my apprentice is painting, or using poly.  Had him sand each one a certain way and apply finish a certain way to give us some visuals.  NOT a pro job but hey he wanted a try at making some small boxes and I happen to need a few.  

 

...if you haven't run him off yet, he's hooked. Good job. Keep challenging him and before long the teacher just might become the student!

3 minutes ago, schnewj said:

Keep challenging him and before long the teacher just might become the student!

 

Oh I am sure I will be getting calls in the future.  Hey Gunny what do you do when xyz happens and then this went sideways.  Working on my reaction so he doesn't hear me laugh or snort.  

It all depends on your preference.  Because of dust and paint and finish dripps I normally use poly or laq then paste wax.

But my cabinets are old kitchen cabinets so the finish is someone in tact.