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Hair Clip

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Why did you not put the bend in it with a band saw before you used the scroll saw? Before I had a band saw I use to use the big body shop grinder with a course grit disk for all my wood shaping needs.

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  • Smallpatch
    Smallpatch

    Ok in about 30 minutes I am this far along plus taking photos and loading them. Still go to grind them so it loks like they are going in and out of the pattern...     I still have to make 12

  • Smallpatch
    Smallpatch

    This measures 4 x 1 1/2

  • Rusty you got it!!  After I took a picture of my wifes hair thingies I thought I didn't want one made of wood to end up looking like the plastic things. And after looking at the things these CNC guys

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3 minutes ago, Smallpatch said:

Why did you not put the bend in it with a band saw before you used the scroll saw? Before I had a band saw I use to use the big body shop grinder with a course grit disk for all my wood shaping needs.

That would be a lot less hassle.

  • Author

Thanks for the help everybody. I broke it. I went in the shop and found a 1 x 6 piece of bloodwood. I cut three arches around 3/8" thick and then glued them together so it ended up 2.25 inches wide by five inches long with a nice curve. I sanded it on my oscillating spindle sander to a little under 1/4" thick. Then I cut it on my scroll saw. Now I just have some shaping to do and I will post a picture.

  • Author
On 8/23/2018 at 8:48 AM, Smallpatch said:

Why did you not put the bend in it with a band saw before you used the scroll saw? Before I had a band saw I use to use the big body shop grinder with a course grit disk for all my wood shaping needs.

I don't understand. How do I cut a bend in a board that is 1/4" thick?

1 hour ago, RustyFN said:

I don't understand. How do I cut a bend in a board that is 1/4" thick?

 

Start off with a thicker board, 1/2" or 3/4", and cut the curve you want leaving a 1/4" piece.

Dan is right, I started with a 3/4" thick board and cut the curve then I drew out some diamond shapes for the scroll saw to cut out. Then used the dremel.

 

You didn't even read my replies up towards your first question and the curved wood is laying on a ball point pen....

Edited by Smallpatch

  • Author
23 hours ago, HandyDan said:

 

Start off with a thicker board, 1/2" or 3/4", and cut the curve you want leaving a 1/4" piece.

A 3/4" board won't give me enough bend.

How about gluing two 3/4" boards together then draw your lines to be cut on them. Rusty the picture on post # 13 matched the curve of wifes plastic models she uses..How wide is the pieces of wood you are starting with. I started with a board 4 1/4"long. If the curve is to be on a board say 6" long then 2 3/4" thicks boards glued together will make lots of curve..before the scroll saw design is applied to the flat area.

  • Author

I cut three pieces off the end of a board about 3/8" thick. I glued them together side by side. That gave me what I needed. I got it done and broke off the end that the stick goes through. Third time is a charm.

Got any pics? 

How about gluing two 3/4" boards together then draw your lines to be cut on them. Rusty do you have a band saw.

1 hour ago, Gene Howe said:

Got any pics? 

Oops. Sorry about that. I misread. I thought it was the stick that broke...not the clip. 

  • Author

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  • Author

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By jove, I think you've got it.:)

Excellent Rusty!

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Rusty you got it!!  After I took a picture of my wifes hair thingies I thought I didn't want one made of wood to end up looking like the plastic things. And after looking at the things these CNC guys make they all seem to look like plastic for their creations ends up too perfect.

  Are you buying any of the bits www.woodcarverssupply.com sells. Thats where all my bits come from and really get lots of use out of them before they finally wear out.. These four here I bought in 2016 and am still using them every day I turn the Dremel on...

   Oh and to make the flex shaft last  I mix a little auto wheel bearing grease and synthetic motor oil together and add some to the cable. The oldest flex shaft I have was bought before 1992 and gets used every time I turn the dremel on.. Just add  a small amount at a time for if the cable housing is plumb full it might wear out the motor because of too much drag..These 4 bits  are the one I use all the time bought in 2016. 1/8" shaft size and I keep them in a small baby food jar full of lacquer thinner to loosen up the gunk... Then clean them with a very very fine hand held wire brush. Only the tapered one in the flex shaft is what I used on the hair thingy couple days ago. 

  I just added these last week.IMG_0416.JPG.d3d2e4b39b9cfdfae8c7ed82619ac76e.JPG First time I added any new bits since 2016. The big one is the only 1/4" shaft bit I use and I use it in a small air grinder. The bottom two are tungston carbide and will last longer than high speed steel. Just stay away from any of the high speed steel bits from dremel for they will only last a week or two . After using all the bits showing I then use diamond tipped round type bits to smooth the wood in the course and fine grit.

 A warning on these in the last picture which are very course 1/8" bits, I ordered this set of 1/8" bits in 2016 and they are too course for the are very hard to control and will dig fox holes in the wood and grab and bend the shafts before you can pull them up out of the wood...Only set of any bits I have and not worth what ever I paid for them. Not because of the cost but hard to use..IMG_0420.JPG.f03fb4d7efaa2e5fddf6a434d5d3d06f.JPG 

  Also since this picture was taken I have bent two or three more of these course monsters.

 

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Edited by Smallpatch

Nice going Rusty.  Looking good!

  • Author

Jesse thanks for the onfo. I will look into getting some of those. So far I have just been using what came with my Dremmel. 

Hey Jesse....what is the hand piece you show in that last picture? A Fordom or similar? 

Rusty all due respects to Dremel but what came in any of the Dremel kits are pure junk. I think Dremels bits are the reasons most guys that might have a kit from them hardly ever touch the grinders for help on their projects..

  But wait....They have some good bits and they look like the 4 I have in the above picture. In their listings they go by 9,000 series. the ones showing are from Wood carvers supply but look exactly like them  from Dremel. And are almost the same price..I did not order the whole set from Wood Carvers only the 265050,265051, 265081 and 265091..  If they were Dremel numbers 9931, 9934, 9935 and 9936. They call these 1/8" bits Structured Tooth Tungsten Carbide.  I don't know why but in their site a few minutes ago they only show the 9931 and 9935 and all the other numbers have no pictures... I have been telling people the bits are the same but I should have included I have not touched one and not used any of the Dremels so I am saying things I don't know is true or not...

  I don't think Dremel includes the good bits in any of their sets with the grinders...Just stay away from any high speed steel bits.

   Order Wood Carvers Supply catalog and we can discuss what I been using and why I don't buy any full sets.

    Gene Howe I have had this flex shaft in the picture since 1992. It was my sons and he died that year and I have been using it ever since....It is a Dremel and it is the thinnest of any they have had since then...I think the model number grinder was a 100 and it wore out in 2002 . Probably brushes but at the time there was a Service center in Arizona, sent it there, they sent back a new 3000 and a note of no charge.. Maybe thats why there is no service center in Arizona anymore?? I just added a note asking was the tool fixable? 

  I think the key to the flex shafts lasting a long time is the wheel bearing grease mixed with synthetic motor oil . I say synthetic, for I have always used Mobil 1 not knowing if it was synthetic or not.

  I have a Foredom I wore out way before it should have wore out because I didn't think to grease it at all...Some more of that only takes one time then a person should learn a a lesson!!!!

  The Foredom just hangs there cause the cost of the shaft and cble is way more than a Dremel #3000 with a flex shaft and the dremel is easier to hold and maneuver around. I also think the 3000 has plenty of power for these better bits and have never thought I needed any of their more powerful models....

  I keep 2 Dremels hanging by my work table all the time. I am also in the trial period with a Wen grinder model with their flex shaft.  Just got one last week for 31.99 freight paid from Amazon then paid 2 more dollars for 2 years warrenty. And then I found Home Depot has the same Wen for the exact cost but not sure about the freight? I do prefer a local store over Amazon in case something happens to the product. I am a believer if a electric tool runs good for 30 days then it will run past its warranty time anyway. The 3000 is rated 1.7 amp where the Wen is rated 1.8 amp.  It seem like the Wen is a hair louder? The newer models of the Dremel flex shaft has a button to push to lock the cable from moving while changing a bit when the Wen I have to use an 1/8" bit end to hold the cable like the old model Dremels. No big deal there.. But one time I pushed the button while the motor was running on a newer dremel and almost ruined the holding ability and if it goes there is no way to hold the cable while changing the bits.

  Two times in the last couple of months I have walked in to the shop early in the morning and a Dremel was running and two night is lots of regular use on a grinder..

   
There are air powered grinders smaller than my dremel flex shaft but way up there in dollars. If I was crving real small things that would be the way to go..

I would also advise to have an extra set of brushes and change them on any brush motors before the tool completely quits running...say once a year change the brushes.... cause if you wait till it quits chances are the armature will be ruined then buying a new tool will be the next step... These Kutzall brand I use all the time then to smooth the wood a round diamond 1/8" bit and or sandpaper and tiny fingers or on a dowel.

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IMG_1008.thumb.JPG.c214fe34fed1569cfecb4d85ff71c34c.JPG

 

If these need cleaning I drop them in a small bottle of lacquer thinner for a while then use a very very small stainless steel wire brush, the ones I use come from McMaster carr and only use the hand held brushes. I guess the local stores like ace might have that small?

 I also use the regular 1/8"tungsten carbide bits but only the ones marked I use and the rest of the set I never touch.IMG_1010.JPG.43f66854f1194e25273c02cfb80c1f05.JPG

And the coarse 1/8" bits will cause more fox holes than I care to repair but when I first started carving I bought a set but only use the four marked but yo sue better be ready with both hands trying to control these Mini Monsters as they are called.IMG_1011.JPG.50fb27da08e912b0a7a433d13af6d7e3.JPG 

 

I have used all of these on plastic and aluminum but the aluminum is harder to clean but keep after it.

  Only use the mini monsters chucked up all the way in the chuck and some I did shorten the shafts for safety reasons especially after I bent a shaft or two and you might loose some skin with the mini's  but now I wear thick leather gloves on the mini's......Only once then I try to remember the pain....

  # 264866 Nugget brand from Wood Carvers Supply is a great wheel which has to have a shaft  screwed on but for the first ruffing in will save lots of labor. I use it with my air grinders for it has a 1/4" shaft.

Edited by Smallpatch

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