2 hours ago, Larry Schweitzer said:

The 3/4" poplar is probably pretty thick to be using for a first scroll saw project. Thinner is better. 1/4" seems like a good thickness for this project. Plywood has the advantage of being resistant to cracking in the thin cross grain areas. Baltic birch seems like the best plywood for this project. It comes in metric thicknesses. Look for 6mm. They may call it 1/4" but it is 6mm. You will need to show him how to drill a hole and thread the blade through the enclosed openings. I hope he enjoys your efforts. Kids need this kind of thing. 

I definitely agree that the kids today need some experience with real tools. I may try my hand out at reshaping on my bandsaw, to make some 3/4 poplar, 3/8 poplar. This is gonna be a nice learning motivator for me.

12 hours ago, schnewj said:

Sorry, I'm a little late to the party, but here are some things that may help on this journey.

 

Steve Good is my go-to guy. He comes up with some pretty interesting stuff and is pretty prolific at creating patterns. Almost everything is free unless you choose to purchase a DVD or a sorted catalog for a couple of bucks.

 

Free patterns and a wealth of other information (Steve Good).

 

https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/

 

Once there, open the site, scroll to the bottom and you will find two excellent FREE programs to create the patterns for the gifts you want to make. They are very small, simple programs which function great

 

Here is some other useful miscellaneous information:

 

No_Fail_Blade_Chart_206122387.pdf

 

ScrollChart.pdf

 

The most common mistake made by beginners is not getting the blades tensioned properly...they will come loose, chatter/vibrate, and snap. Learn to get them tight.

 

If you choose to purchase materials, there are numerous sources of supplies specifically for scroll saw work. They are really reasonable and shipping is not as bad as you would think. If you choose to eventually go that route, just ask and I can supply some links, as I'm sure some of the others can, also.

 

I applaud you for doing this, happy scrolling.

 

 

Thank you, I’m getting enough great responses here, I gotta figure out how to organize all of them

16 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Artie, you need a wireless mouse.

The Missus and myself share that computer. I think She vetoed that idea on the grounds of not wanting to encourage me (probably afraid I’d turn it into some kind of Olympic event )

Artie, go ahead and practice resawing that poplar - but I would not use it for this project.  A piece of solid wood is much more likely to crack or split than a piece of good plywood.  If you have the correct blades for the job, either make the project from 3/4" poplar or get a piece of baltic birch plywood.

Just my $.02, YMMV.

1 hour ago, Cal said:

Artie, go ahead and practice resawing that poplar - but I would not use it for this project.  A piece of solid wood is much more likely to crack or split than a piece of good plywood.  If you have the correct blades for the job, either make the project from 3/4" poplar or get a piece of baltic birch plywood.

Just my $.02, YMMV.

I have to agree with Cal. Use 1/4 plywood to start him out. When he gets some experience then go to solid woods. Save the popular for things like 3D Christmas tree ornaments or key chains.

 

One key thing for beginners. You can't scroll a straight line by running the line parallel to the blade. I know it is counter-intuitive but scroll saw blades are stamped out. They leave a burr on the back of the blade, that will skew the blade. You have to move the wood at an angle, to the blade, in order to cut a straight line. There are things you can do to minimize it but you will never eliminate it.

 

You Tube is your friend here. There are some very good tutorials for beginners.

 

Certain basics HAVE to be learned if you want to eliminate his frustration at a lack of immediate success. Among these are: getting the blade square to the table, proper tensioning, cutting a straight line, making turns, and a few others. It is all a matter of practice that, once learned will become second nature.

 

 

If I’ve read the manuals correctly, the process to use the Shopsmith scroll saw is kinda time consuming. Hit the menu button, scroll to scroll saw, hit yes, pick a speed, hit yes, then hit confirm, to get it running. I looked at the number of times one would want to stop and start a scroll saw to complete a project, and decided to buy a starter scroll saw. I ordered the Porter-Cable one from Lowes. Everett and myself can sit at it (one at a time of course), and use a foot pedal to operate the saw. I’m gonna try to get some 1/4 Baltic Birch over the weekend, and want to start making something by next weekend. I’m thinking a Celtic Cross for our neighbor. I will try to take some pictures and post them. I went to Steve Good’s site, and became a member (of course I told him how the people here recommended him glowingly). I also ordered some Flying Dutchman blades. This is also a warning, the rookie questions are probably gonna multiply LOL. I figgered I need to know something before I try to teach Everett anything. Thank you everyone for all the advice and opinions.    Let’s see, I gotta learn how to attach patterns to wood? How to finish Baltic Birch? Can it be stained with a gel stain? I figgered the guy at Woodcraft is gonna have to answer these if he wants to sell me any Baltic. I’m gonna print out copies of the above blade charts, and see about getting them laminated. Pretty sure one of the departments in the town I work for has an office laminating machine. If I had started this a wee bit earlier, I coulda made a Shamrock for Saint Patricks Day. Also as I was talking about all this with the Missus, I thought about our manger. My Grandfather made 4 of them back around 1966, one for my Grandmother, and one each for his 3 kids. I have inherited the one my Mother had. Years ago one of our cats crawled into the manger to sleep, and broke the crib the baby Jesus was in. Now I want to get a plan for a crib, scale it to size for our baby Jesus, and make one. (He’s been sleeping in a cardboard jewelers ring box for the last 30 years or so). The manger is one of my most valued possessions, and getting a real crib back in it will have me having a conversation or two with my Mom. OK rambling is over for tonight, we are forecast for 10-16 inches plus tonight, so gotta get up a little earlier than normal tomorrow.    

Artie, You might consider using 1/4 " or 3/8"  baltic birch plywood Artie. A much better chance that the letters won't get broken with just the  handling of them and they should finish nicely.

Looks like you may be spending a bit of time shoveling out, or maybe chopping up trees after the storm tonight.  The beaches are taking a bit of a beating.  Time to get the metal detector out of the closet.

Edited March 8, 20188 yr by It Was Al B

Artie, I see that Lowes carries a couple different PC saws - which one did you get?

Nothing against Woodcraft stores, but do you have a Michaels hobby store close by?  The one by me sells a baltic birch plywood in smaller sheets, and they usually have a 40% off one item coupon available.

You are ambitious if your first project is going to be a Celtic cross!  I am sure that you will do fine if you take your time and use the proper blade and such.

Looking forward to the pics!

40 minutes ago, Cal said:

Nothing against Woodcraft stores, but do you have a Michaels hobby store close by?

@Artie...if no Michael's nearby how about a Hobby Lobby? They also carry BB in smaller sheet sizes and usually have 40% off a single item coupons.

For just plain 'ole practice some 1/4" Luan ply, 1/4" tempered hardboard (aka Masonite) or even Balsa wood might be an option too. Just a thought.

Of course until we see pictures of the new scroll saw, it didn't happen Pictures of the blades is optional

The saw was the one that comes with the stand, $189 I think. Pretty sure the storm we’re still experiencing will affect shipping times, pictures WILL be posted.

Artie I thought I mentioned it before? but those stands for the scroll saws have you standing when you are sawing... Man on man, they will make an older man of you very quick and from your picture more old age added on is not advisable Sitting while sawing will take years off your age. Mo better.

  I see you got lots of advise on wood.. I say just say use anything you got laying around to play with. Also I don't know of any stores that sells decent blades for any kind of cutting except big logs maybe.. The stores thinks the larger the teeth the better,,,, wrong.....

3 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

Artie I thought I mentioned it before? but those stands for the scroll saws have you standing when you are sawing... Man on man, they will make an older man of you very quick and from your picture more old age added on is not advisable Sitting while sawing will take years off your age. Mo better.

  I see you got lots of advise on wood.. I say just say use anything you got laying around to play with. Also I don't know of any stores that sells decent blades for any kind of cutting except big logs maybe.. The stores thinks the larger the teeth the better,,,, wrong.....

Bought a bunch of Flying Dutchman blades, were recommended here, and on Steve good’s place. Gonna get me a comfortable chairs with wheels, and then the saw stand will be made to accommodate the chair. The saying that stuck with me from the Air Force was.  “Why run when you can walk, why walk when you can stand, why stand when you can sit, why sit when you can lay down, and why lay down when you can sleep? “ I’m all for sitting and spending all my energy and attention on following the lines. (Though my juvenile coloring book memories are that I might have a problem with the lines LOL). I’m hoping to at least watch all the videos in Steve’s scrolling school, before I plunk myself down on chair and start sawing, but on the other hand, as my Dad used to tell me (You always gotta learn the hard way), So I might just jump in and see what happens :).

Watched Steve Good’s videos for rookies, and they make it look so simple and intuitive,  yet I know without watching the videos I probably woulda gone years before I figgered stuff out. I’m starting to get as excited as a kid on Christmas Eve!

I has a question! On Steve Good’s videos (my sole reference point right now) He uses a 3m general purpose spray adhesive. I’m having a hard time finding such locally. woodcraft sells a Weldwood multipurpose spray adhesive-Same? Ok to use? I like the blue painters tape method, I’m thinking of trying that first.

12 minutes ago, Artie said:

3m general purpose spray adhesive.

Artie, check at a local Wall-E-World or even craft stores like Hobby Lobby or Michael's. Also a BORG e.g. Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Do-It-Best or whatever you might have on the Right Coast. Really any brand GP adhesive spray will work...once done, you can clean wood surface of any residue with Acetone

 

This works too...

Artie, search out some of smallpatch posts for good info on what and how stickum info.

Artie, read through this thread started by @Smallpatch

 

He details the use of clear packing tape applied to the wood, and then the pattern glued to the tape.  He reports it is much easier clean up and such.

YMMV

Use any of the low tack (lower numbered sprays) brand doesn't matter much. Some people place packing tape or blue painters tape on the wood, apply the adhesive and then the pattern. The tape can act as a lubricant for the blade cutting down on friction. When done just peel the tape loose. You can clean up any left over adhesive residue with acetone or mineral spirits, which is a less flammable solvent.

Printed out the charts that Schnewj posted (gotta get them laminated), got a notice from UPS that saw is being delivered tomorrow (Yipee), and after work tomorrow, I’m hitting the Woodcraft on the way home. Gotta work Sunday morning, but when I get home I’m hoping to have some play time in the basement  Pictures will follow. 

And if you still can't find what you want spray-wise; try a Pat Catan's or a Jo-Ann Fabric if you have one around.