Half blind dovetails:   Sockets?     I start out treating the socket as if it was a box joint.  Once that is chopped out, THEN I pare the angled part, by going straight down from above,  until the angle is done.     I usually do the tails first on half blind joints, then mark what needs to be removed to make the pins..

As long as I take my time....

What looks like gaps..is actually the pencil lines I left behind. 

They do clean up, nicely.....

1 hour ago, schnewj said:

Ideally, a Tormec T-8 would be the way to go, especially, if I were sharpening turning tools. However, at ~$800-1000 USD it is just not cost effective for what I am doing lately.

I love mine- it's not the T-8; it's the original "green" one. It was expensive and the jigs are not cheap but it gets the job done perfectly.

I've been using the guide free Paul sellers method which gives a slightly rounded bevel on a piece of plate glass I found in an old unit.

I probably just need more practice, I have seen a nice diamond plate 1200 grit recommended by Paul sellers. Gonna treat myself after Xmas!!

3 minutes ago, eazygeezer said:

I've been using the guide free Paul sellers method which gives a slightly rounded bevel on a piece of plate glass I found in an old unit.

I probably just need more practice, I have seen a nice diamond plate 1200 grit recommended by Paul sellers. Gonna treat myself after Xmas!!

Again, not to discount anyone's method of sharpening, I find that using sandpaper can become less cost effective for extensive use. I have found some good deals on eBay for the DMT's. If you are patient and keep and eye out you can get some great deals. I found a "used" one that in reality was new for a fraction of the cost of a new plate. The deals are rare but can be had.

 

Concentrate on the higher grit plates and then the lower (coarser) ones. Unless you have to repair a damaged edge or bevel most of your activities will involve touching up the edge. Rough work can be done with sandpaper and a good guide if needed. That will/should only be occasionally.

1 hour ago, schnewj said:

The Veritas MkII is an indispensable member of my sharpening family. Most people bulk at the initial price but it is a highly accurate, simple to use, LIFETIME tool.

 

I have tried just about every method of sharpening available. I've settled on a WorkSharp 3000 for restoring bevel angles and repairing chipped edges. Flattening backs are a breeze and a homemade MDF disc with leather face makes a decent strop. I am doing most of the final/touch-up  work on 8" x 3" DMT diamond plates now. I still use my water stones occasionally but hate the mess. I, also, have some very expensive Arkansas stones that are beautiful to use.

 

The DMT's remain flat and have an infinitely longer life span than my quality waterstones. Price wise they are more cost effective than quality waterstones in the long term, and much less messy.

 

Ideally, a Tormek T-8 would be the way to go, especially, if I were sharpening turning tools. However, at ~$800-1000 USD it is just not cost effective for what I am doing lately.

 

This all isn't intended to push one method over another. Everyone has their own methods. This is just what I have found works for me.

 

hear hear...

I use the Tormek as where Schnooge uses the WorkSharp...

the MkII is a tough act to beat or follow... there is nothing to compare...

So I used a bit of pitch pine from my stash. This is attempt 13.

 

Still not perfect but not far away Now!!

 

58 minutes ago, eazygeezer said:

Still not perfect but not far away Now!!

You're pulling our leg, right? Any closer, and you're going to need a micrometer! Looks good to me.

John

2 minutes ago, HARO50 said:

You're pulling our leg, right? Any closer, and you're going to need a micrometer! Looks good to me.

John

exactly...

he should be starting Japanese joinery any moment...

I'd say you are there, or at least pretty darned close!

 

I really like to cut dovetails by hand but my problem is that I don't do it enough to retain sawing techniques to follow a straight line. Here's a technique I found that does help with that. The video picks up at about 1 minute 30 seconds. Dave Bardin saws down the "front" line and then uses that cut to help guide the saw down the rear cut. There are also some, what I think, good tips on chisel work later in the video.

 

 

We have discussed dovetail joinery in other posts and how we strive to make them as perfect as possible. Yet, history shows us that this joint was often quick and dirty. Strong but not necessarily pretty.

 

I found this article about the many variations of dovetails. The second link  is from the article for pictures of actual dovetails.

 

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/dovetails-472-flavors

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mark_firley/albums/72157635404664767/page4

 

 

Edit: Not sure why the first link doesn't take you directly to the site. Copy and paste the link and it does work.

Edited December 9, 20178 yr by lew

Lee, you're darn near there. If you can do that consistently then you've got it down. Now, just keep practicing

 

It looks like your still cutting a little deep on the pins. Just remember to always leave your line(s). I use a marking knife. Use a pencil afterwards if you need to make it more visible. The cut line helps to register your chisel and your saw.

less pressure on the saw. pine and other soft woods tear out really easy. you are using a pull saw so just let it do the cutting. as for your chisels, they are made for paring, NOT for hogging.

Butt joints are enough of a challenge, so I've never tried Dove Tails. But, your latest look pretty dadburned good. 

finesse and smoothness makes a world of difference...

hurrying and force hurt/cost ya...

Rob Cosman related a story about how every morning he got up and cut practice joints before he left to do whatever he was working at (school, job, etc.). Today he is a well respected manufacturer of saws and dovetail cutting accessories, and teaches classes in dovetailing. If you haven't seen any of his videos, Lee, they are well worth the education.

 

Point is, again, practice and practice some more. Even the masters were where you are now. You're looking real good, refine your technique a little more and you will be ready for those exposed DT's on a piece of fine furniture.

Had a good look through all the info, very useful. . There was a bit of slop in the joints still whereas the previous attempt was nice and rigid. I did learn a few important little things, gonna try them out on 14. Then I'll move on to a mortise and tenon joint for practice!! 

 

gonna pop out in the shed tonight when the Mrs goes out on her works do!! 

So this is attempt 14, just wish it didn't take me nearly an hour to do each one Although speed will come with practice and better tools I guess

Took a bit l9nger because of the huge knot!

1 minute ago, eazygeezer said:

So this is attempt 14, just wish it didn't take me nearly an hour to do each one Although speed will come with practice and better tools I guess

Took a bit l9nger because of the huge knot!

 

 

Alright, Lee, stop it! You're starting to make some of us feel inadequate. YOU ARE THERE!

 

Nothing wrong with those AT ALL! The speed will come with the practice. There is a saying: "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast".

 

If anything, sharper chisels...and pare with a sweeping motion to prevent any tear out.

Yay!! Happy with that one.

 

I'm gonna start on mortice and tenons next. Once i have cracked them I'm gonna start a little project to make something for the Mrs.  that is for all your help you guys rock!

1 hour ago, eazygeezer said:

I'm gonna start on mortise and tenons next

 

those are cake and pie..