2 hours ago, Gerald said:

This is the only other pic I have that shows anything different. The fence itself is 2 layers of ply. The extension stop is mounted in a slot which is a V cut in each piece of ply . This came from some shop magazine , maybe Shopnotes (hated to lose that one). Let me know if you have any questions.

Gerald, is that a table saw or router table?

11 hours ago, Roly said:

Go to any hospital and with the outlet vertical and the ground is at the top.  Code does not specify which way it is positioned when vertical.    If the weight of the cord is hanging down,  with the ground at top the hot blade would not be exposed as it would if the ground is at the bottom.  The ground is also a little longer for the same reason.   When installed sideways the neutral should be at the top for the same reason,  to prevent the hot to be exposed.     Around here most are installed with the ground down but up makes more sense.    Roly

 

I agree with Roly on this one, I have always put the ground up for all the same reasons.

Ground Pin Up or Ground Pin Down?

There is an age-old debate about whether an electrical outlet should be mounted with the ground pin up or down.  Unfortunately, there is not a fully accepted answer.  However, it is commonly accepted that the National Electrical Code (NEC) of the United States, or NFPA 70, does not provide any specific direction for the orientation of the outlet.

Some theories about the orientation of an outlet:

• The outlet should be oriented with the ground pin up because if the plug comes slightly loose and a metal object were to fall from above, the ground plug, which usually does not carry current, would deflect the object so that it would not hit is live prongs.  It is accepted that this idea began in health care facilities where many tools used for patient care are metal.  The story goes that hospitals were wired by union electricians and as the unions grew the practice spread to other types of buildings.
• The outlet should be oriented with the ground pin up because this pin is longer and the plastic around the plug is meatier, so it will help to keep the plug inserted in the outlet.
• The outlet should be oriented with the ground pin down because a person grabbing the outlet will have their index finger at the bottom side of the plug and the index finger sticks out further than the thumb.  Having the ground down will keep a person's index finger from touching the live pins.
• The outlet should be oriented with the ground pin down because many common household items such as nightlights, timers, and battery chargers are oriented with the ground pin down.  In addition, GFCI outlets, which have text on the reset and test buttons, are oriented with the ground pin down (and the text readable).

A quick internet search provides comments that easily debunk any of these theories.  The most basic answer is that it truly doesn't matter which way your outlets are oriented.  Select the strategy that best works for you.

To my knowledge the only NEC requirement for outlet mounting position is they cannot be mounted in the work surface of a counter top or other work surface.   Roly

 Most GFCI's  have text in both directions so either is readable.    Not that we read them anyway.

Edited October 27, 20169 yr by Roly

13 hours ago, Dadio said:

Gerald, is that a table saw or router table?

Table saw fence

17 hours ago, Roly said:

To my knowledge the only NEC requirement for outlet mounting position is they cannot be mounted in the work surface of a counter top or other work surface.   Roly

 Most GFCI's  have text in both directions so either is readable.    Not that we read them anyway.

  And some people wonder why.

That picture is so unbelievable. Is it staged?

20 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis, Jr said:

That picture is so unbelievable. Is it staged?

some how I think not...

Without a sink basin under it I call BS on the pic...

I do have a vinyl decal that supports the ground down orientation on the outlet.  This is not the forum to post it in though... it would need a mature audience section or some such...

Cal

Edited October 28, 20169 yr by clhyer

3 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis, Jr said:

That picture is so unbelievable. Is it staged?

We can only hope!

John

Watched another "Tricks of the Trade" last night...

 

Went shopping for a used van to replace the 10 yr old  Town& Country......Found a Uplander, 2007  for just over 7500......Then they come back and want  $500 along with the van.....warning sign #1

 

Tried for a less expensive van, about $1000 less.....somehow, that got lost in the shuffle of the papers that took almost an hour to do....salesman comes back, says he can get us into a 2011......price went up to 12K  PLUS a $2500 down payment?     At which point, I just stood up, and walked out their door.....

 

BTDT, know enough NOT to be taken like that ever again.....

 

Not sure what I will do about their Tricks of the Trade......sometimes, the law will decide....

6 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis, Jr said:

That picture is so unbelievable. Is it staged?

 

The receptacle makes for a pretty small sink unless he is washing a couple of pennies at a time.

 

 

23 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis, Jr said:

That picture is so unbelievable. Is it staged?

 Found the pic years ago on an electrical website and don't believe it was staged. Most of the codes are based, IMO, on things that people have done and failed miserably. A lot of the pictures I have taken over the years were used to try and explain what I wrote in a service report, sometimes words were not enough. 

  The red lettering on the pipe states " for water us only".

Edited October 29, 20169 yr by DuckSoup

centering..

use a forstner bit the same dia as the the block is square...

line up the OD of the bit w/ edges of the block and press down...

one each marked center...

 

forstner bit the same dia as the material is thick...

load the bit in the DP...

slide the fence to the bit...

one found center to the material's thickness...

change to bit meet your requirements...

 

forstner bit the same dia as the the block is square...

slide the fence to the bit...

add a stop block at right angle to the fence...

presto... one repetitious centering jig...

 

repetitiously equally spaced holes along the length of a piece of material....

mark spacing for the 1st two holes on the material...

forstner bit the same dia as the material is thick...

load the bit in the DP...

slide the fence to the bit...

change to desired bit...

drill 1st hole...

move the material to the 2nd mark for drilling...

temporarily clamp the material down...

set a stop/indicator to the edge of the 1st hole's rim...

unclamp the material and drill your holes by sliding the material along and stopping the rim of the just drilled hole...

repeat as often as required....

A toilet wax ring in a suitable container is handy in the shop. It can be used on clamp bars/pipe to make it easier to remove glue. It's cheaper than J&J. My favorite use is to stick a bunch of screws in it and carry it to the work. Keeps the screws handy and lubed.

Speaking of toilet parts, a toilet flange fits a 4" DC hose perfectly. And, those brass bolts work well in "T" tracks.

On ‎10‎/‎28‎/‎2016 at 7:06 AM, Fred W. Hargis, Jr said:

That picture is so unbelievable. Is it staged?

 

My guess is it's a faucet modified to be a beer tap...

6 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

A toilet wax ring in a suitable container is handy in the shop. It can be used on clamp bars/pipe to make it easier to remove glue. It's cheaper than J&J. My favorite use is to stick a bunch of screws in it and carry it to the work. Keeps the screws handy and lubed.

 

 

Wax rings are made from a combination of petrolatum and proprietary ingredients that vary among manufacturers. The wax rings made by Hercules Chemical in New Jersey are typical of the way that the manufacturing process works. The petrolatum is shipped into the factory and stored in liquid form at 170 degrees Fahrenheit until it is needed. The petrolatum is then mixed with other chemicals that keep it solidified at room temperature and then poured into aluminum molds coated with a soap compound.

 

contaminating your work is a strong possibility...

Contaminated screw holes are no biggies and the clamp pipes never touch the work. 

IIRC, the wax ring was made with petroleum products and vegetable oils.

Here is a saw guide for breaking down sheet goods. It's a commercial edge guide attached to an 8' piece of ply. Figuring the offset for the cut was error prone, to say the least, before the ply was added.

The first cut through the ply establishes the cut line. Then, line the edge to the tic marks on the sheet to be cut. Clamp both ends and go. 

Works good but, rough. I always cut a smidge wide and trimmed it at the TS.

 

Here's a gooder one. An 8' "T" track screwed in a channel cut in a 3/4" piece of ply.

A matching insert is attached to the saw plate.

With this set up, there's no need to trim at the TS.

 

@Gene HoweReally cool ideas Gene...I especially like the second set-up....do you have some type of set-up jig to ensure the insert is parallel to the saw blade?

Edited December 30, 20169 yr by Grandpadave52