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Found 4 results

  1. More progress has been made on the chest of drawers. Last time I made a post I left you with this pic. Now I need to make the inner front and rear center stiles and the front upper rail. The front upper rail is a part of a dovetail joint. I started making the rail dovetail by sawing a cheek and two shoulder cuts. Then I cut the dovetail profile using my table saw fitted with a 10-degree bevel saw blade and a shop made jig. After two cuts and some chisel clean-up I have a nice dovetail. Then I laid the front upper rail across the top of the two front legs and scribed their location using a scribing knife. I used a small saw to help with the chisel work. I found chiseling into white oak difficult, so I regrouped and used my router to make the socket for the dovetail. I’m happy with the initial fit. After a little tweaking with a chisel, it will fit nicely. Dry fitting with all the stiles and rails in place. Sorry that I did not take pics for the inner front and rear center stiles. The inner stiles will carry the weight from the #3,4,5,& 6 drawer slides. The front stile has twin tenons on each end and twin mortises routed for 3 rails. The rear stile has two half-lap joints and three single mortises. The rear inner stile will be glued and screwed to the #3 & #6 rear rails during the final glue-up assembly. Locating the mortises was a meticulous effort. I use a template and a compression router bit to route the profile to all the lower rails. Time to dry fit all the pieces and get ready to trial install the under-mount draw slides. The drawer slide will attach to the front leg and the rear rails using a bracket, after the rear legs are notched for each bracket, to allow for the proper clearances. I will need to rout the twelve notches into the two rear legs and the inner rear rail. Another shop-aid or template is made to help route the twelve notches. I used my mortising jig to hold the legs and the template. I used a ½” OD guide busing in my router along with a 1/8” dia bit. The drawer slide is temporarily located looking for positive clearances. I made shop aids to help hold the slide in the rear in the correct plane. I made another shop-aid to locate the front of the drawer slide 1-1/8” from the front of the front legs. The Chest of drawer top boards are milled to final thickness (7/8") and glued together. The top still needs to be cut to size. Next, making the L-hand door. More mortise and tenon joinery need to be made for the door construction. Doesn’t it look pretty? I have a plan and a mock-up for the door pull installation. AGAIN, thanks for looking. Danl
  2. I started the build of the mission style chest-of-drawers with QSWO for the primary and poplar for the secondary wood. The drawers will rest on under-mount soft closed drawer slides. My wife wanted 3 drawers behind the door. The door will have the same motif as the nightstand and the bed. I am not certain if the motif will be applied on the lower drawers. I hope to finish the corbels and route the mortises, into the four legs, for the twin tenons next week. The drawer heights are (4) 6", (1) 7", and (1) 8". Danl I use my shop-made-mortising jig to route the mortises into the legs for the needed mortises for the sides. I use my shop-made tenoning jig to saw the tenon cheeks. Fits together the 1st dry fit as planned. The side panels were made from ½” book matched, solid wood. Ripped sawn from 5/4 bd. The panels have a recess to allow for a 1/16" gap. Thanks for looking. Danl
  3. Good afternoon Friends, I am in the process of making a Morris chair and am using quarter sawn white oak and cow hide for the cushions. I'll attempt to send some pictures when I am done.
  4. Good Evening Friends, I made a quarter sawn white oak floor register for a client and am going to try to post a picture.
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