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Just a little over a week left to reach our goal of $1800. If you haven't gotten your raffle tickets- DON'T DELAY! Our Patriot Turners- @FrederickH salvaged an oak burl and wondered whether we thought it was worth turning. You can probably guess we were 100% in favorite of doing it!! Check out more images and our members comments here What’s Coming Up- Last Friday (June 20) Cindy Drozda's Tool Talk was about cutting threads. She used a dedicated jig for her demonstration. If you missed it, she made it available on YouTube- Click the image for more information and registration For The Newbies- If you are getting ready to turn that first bowl but need some advice on mounting the blank, Mike Peace has some ideas- Sam Angelo follows up with more ways to mount turnings on the lathe- Woodcraft has a great page on their site for turning lessons. If you need ideas on awesome projects, check it out! Click the below image!! Expand Your Horizons- On your tool rack , there's the spindle gouge, the bowl gouge and the parting tool. But, what about that skew chisel gathering dust. Richard Raffan and Tomislav Tomasic have some tips, techniques and ideas for improving our skew skills! Speaking of Richard Raffan, he was recently given the 2025 Honorary Lifetime Award by the AAW- Turning Time With Easy Wood Tools- If you are in the Leesburg, VA are on Saturday, June 28, stop by the Woodcraft store and check out the Easy Wood Tools demo- https://www.woodcraft.com/pages/store/northern-virginia?srsltid=AfmBOooX-T5uZvqRSaE53QE8POZK3Az_uUkkKI4F6AiBz28zxtHegHai Another EWT shared video showing how easily a bottle stopper can be made- AQMKdmjEumcWBsnzATzgqKdhM_B42S3eIyZZnqgeYCBchGv6K1yRedL_mLQVDjURiFkIQvYOXHI2FkUFbc40B6C7.mp4 @Jordan Martindale New Turning Items- Tim Yoder recently reviewed a new CBN wheel for his grinder. Woodcraft has a sale on turning kits and supplies! Click on the image for the link to all the goodies! Highland Woodworking has the Woodslicer Bandsaw Blades on sale-. Click on the image for the link Everything Else- @Gerald asked for some images of the John Beaver wave bowls I am preparing for a demo I am doing in August. This will be a club demo for the local Cumberland Valley Woodturners. These are just some images of the bowls in various stages of development that I will use to show how they are made. The actual production of a bowl, from start to finish takes several days to allow for glue drying, coloring, sanding and finishing. The bowls are roughed out but left a bit thick so that there will be enough "meat" for gluing later in the process Special supports are made to custom fit inside the bowl to provide a way of holding it together while turning operations are done later. The supports are hot melt glued in place. John Beaver uses MDF but I didn't have any. The supports are drilled to accept dowels to maintain alignment. One of the supports is labeled to keep things aligned. The blank is moved to the bandsaw and a wave is cut in two steps. Dowels are inserted and a pressure block added to the tail stock to make sure everything stays in place and aligned. At his point, the bowl could be made with a wave that stands proud of the surface or recessed below the surface. Recessed wave waiting for the squeeze out to gel. The inside of the bowl will have the supports removed and then turned to the final thickness. The extra "meat" in the wall thickness makes sure there is enough surface for a good glue bond when turning the inside to a respectable wall thickness. Safe turning
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For all experienced turners this is nothing new, but proper drying is a skill that must be mastered in green wood turning. When I started out, I finished turned all my bowls. The result, lots of unwanted warping and cracking. While this can be desirable in some cases, most people prefer a round and crack free bowl. The first solution was to rough turn my blanks and then place them in fresh shavings. While this method worked well, I soon ran out of room and it just took too long for them to dry. Below is the box I made to hold the blanks and shavings. One day I was driving through my neighborhood on Elmendorf AFB, and ran across this old military cooler. Right away I knew this was going to make a great homemade kiln. So I loaded it up in my truck, which was not easy because this thing was heavy. I drilled a few holes on the top, put in a 100 watt light bulb, and a small fan. This kiln reduced the drying time to just under a week in most cases. Sadly, I had to leave this behind on my last move, but I am in the process of either making a new kiln, or I might try putting my rough turned bowls in the attic. I have heard other turners do this method successfully.
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So I've decided to give out Bhilwara a try. I got the blanks I ordered today I still have an outstanding Bloodwood blank in transit. How ever I wanted to see how well this wood would look. Seems like it will make a nice small bowl for a cheaper bit of wood. Either way this project should be fun and I will get video footage of this as well. But I can say it is a pretty tough wood to cut through. Even drilling on the pre drills for the face plate mounting screws was tough almost started a fire with the drilling. I plan on getting that going shortly.
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Folks, I was talking to a young man the other day and he sat in on a Native American bowl making class briefly, back on the east coast. He did not remember what this method of bowl making was called, and I am unable to find anything online about the method. The method of carving a bowl by Native Americans goes way back, as old as our land is. Apparently the Natives would take the timber, char or fire the center of the timber (bowl blank) as to make it easier to carve out the center of the bowl because the center is black and soft. They used the same methods for their dugout canoes, burning the center, to soften the timber or log, and dig it out with implements. Has anyone heard of this method of bowl carving? And if so, what's it called so I can research it, thanks!
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Son in law presents me with a walnut stump. It is freshly cut and dug out. About 20 inches across at ground level. There is about thirty inches from above the ground. I know how to handle that part. There is about 30 inches of the root ball from below the ground, possibly 20 inches across for a couple of feet before roots start branching out. I already know how to dull my chain saw cutting wood with dirt in it or rocks surrounded by root growth. So, before I start, any wisdom about the value of working the portion of the stump that was below ground? I may have to make a new friend of the fellow who has a contract to take down trees and pull stumps for son in law's city.
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