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Just a thought, does that work as well with cold hide glue as well as hot glue?

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  • I’ve laid out all the strips to orient growth ring direction, numbered each one and indicated top side for how they will be in the desk top. Mating pairs have neen jointed and glued, now each pair is

  • So it begins, flattening the top. Traversed the surface with the big try plane. It covers well with it’s weight and momentum. Really cuts nice, it made short work of this side. Made a longer 48” set

  • I have the top cut to dimension, squared and flat. The top surface needs a smoothing plane but I still have to cut mortises in the under side, so smoothing top will wait until that’s done. I finish pl

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Don’t know. I’ve never used cold hide glue for anything. I’d guess it would work, from what I understand, it’s regular hide glue with urea added to keep it liquid.

Thanks for what you do know it's a lot more than I had to start.

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Might not be a bad experiment on a piece of scrap wood anyway.

That is an amazing technique. I was thinking raise grain with steam or damp cloth BUT your fix is eve better.

Your design & technic turned out a beautiful desk, well done. The solution to the tear out is one I've never seen either, great idea.

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I’ve done my standard initial process of wash coating with thinned BLO and following with a natural tone stain. They’re happy with the color as is, so moving on to top coat.IMG_9174.jpeg

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I’ll fill the grain on the top surfaces and coat with poly. Everything else will get tung oil finish.

Very nice Zack! Good job!!

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All finished and ready to deliver. The support structure is finished with straight tung oil, rubbed out and waxed. The top had the pores filled with plaster of paris and finished with polyurethane, rubbed out and waxed. The monitor stand is poly on the top and tung oil in the support, rubbed and waxed.IMG_9244.jpeg

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The strips of wood on the floor aren’t part of it. It’s just sitting on those to keep it off the concrete.

Wow! I like having a big work surface and you have provided that along with a great design. Looks amazing!

Finally looking good all together

All I can say is WOWPraise

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If anyone is interested in the process of filling pores/grain with plaster of paris, here it is.

Do all of the normal sanding and staining first, then apply a sealer coat of 50/50 BLO. Wipe off all the excess and let that dry for at least 24 hrs.

Put some plaster of paris powder in a small container. Use a wet cotton cloth, dip it into the powder and rub across the wood. Work it into the pores and open grain. Let that dry for a day.IMG_9197.jpegOnce it’s dry, lightly sand in the direction of the grain to remove the plaster from the surface so all you have left is what’s down in the grain. It will look like white highlights all through the wood.

Clean all of the dust off and apply another coat of 50/50 BLO. The oil will soak into the plaster and turn it clear. Wipe off the excess and let dry.

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You’ll need to put a non water based, waterproof topcoat finish on it. Like poly, varnish, shellac or tung oil to finish it. If any moisture gets through to the plaster it will turn white again. With the pores filled it doesn’t take very many coats to get a glass smooth finish.

If you are looking to make it water proof don't use shellac. It doesn't hold up well against moisture especially water contact.

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Delivered and setup

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Looks good! Really nice job.

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