April 25Apr 25 Author Popular Post I have the top cut to dimension, squared and flat. The top surface needs a smoothing plane but I still have to cut mortises in the under side, so smoothing top will wait until that’s done. I finish planed the end grain sides with a Veritas 14” low angle jack. If anyone is considering adding a low angle plane I’ll vouch for this one. It’s impressive. I pulled full 32” long curling shavings from endgrain that looked like small rolls of crepe paper.
May 18May 18 Author Popular Post Working on the support pieces. I’ve had the feet and risers ready for a while, cutting the mortise and tenons to join them now.Fit together, need to make the corner braces.I had to modify the original plans a little to get both the lower and upper corner braces. Used the golden ratio to figure it up. Came out like this.Cut and dimensioned the pieces for the braces.Marked out the mortise and tenons for the lower ones. Cut and joined. No glue yet. I’ll have to take them back apart when I cut the upper support and top of the riser. Looking at gluing the 3 joints at the bottom and draw bore pinning the upper brace where it joins the riser.
June 15Jun 15 Author Popular Post Pieces are all cut for the support assembly. The risers are have mortises coming in from 3 sides, had to modify the tenon layout on the cross bar. Ideally wanted a 2” tenon top and bottom, but was going to run into a mortise on the adjacent side. Went with a 4” tenon on the top and 1-1/2 on the bottom. Dry fit together, made the draw bores and marked off the tenons for fitting into the table top.
June 15Jun 15 Popular Post That is very impressive Zack, I like the tip of clamping the square to the brace.
June 16Jun 16 Popular Post Very impressive project there! Makes me sweat thinking about flattening both sides of the top. Edited June 16Jun 16 by 4DThinker
June 16Jun 16 Author Yeah, you’ll definitely do that. Gotta get into the zone and a rhythm. I like to sing 16 tons.
June 24Jun 24 Awesome project and beautiful shop. Love that pirate flag. I'll revisit later tonight to see what else I can spy in your work area,....I love shop pics 😁 Obviously not your first project.
July 21Jul 21 Author Popular Post I made dowels out of white oak by driving them through a drilled plate. Each hole is 1/32 smaller than the one before it, so you can size a dowel the way you need it. By driving them through like this, you also get stronger dowels. The strongest part of the grain follows through the hole and weaker parts get sheared off. It works great for draw pinning because they usually come out with a slight curve to them and you can use it for extra tension in the joint.I’ve got all of the pieces for the supports cleaned up and glued in, the forward angle braces are drawpinned into the risers.I marked out the curve on the stretcher, cut it out with a coping saw and finished with a spoke shave.A friend gave me the center section of this piece for the upper shelf. It’s red oak strips separated by thinner light colored hardwood strips. It was the right length but only about half the width I needed. I continued the pattern and added red oak and ash strips to each side to get the 8” width I needed.
July 21Jul 21 23 minutes ago, Zack said:I made dowels out of white oak by driving them through a drilled plate.Interesting...what is the plate made of? And do you drive the blank with a mallet?
July 21Jul 21 Hey Zack, don't know if you knew it or not, but you can put space between your images, that way it's easier for the reader to view the images, instead of them running into each-other, not a big deal! But just thought I'd suggest it. It's not like your going to get a knock on your door from The Patriot Woodworker editing police, or? 😅
July 21Jul 21 5 hours ago, John Morris said:Hey Barb, don't know if you knew it or not, but you can put space between your images, Did you mean Zack?
July 21Jul 21 Author 8 hours ago, John Morris said:Hey Zack, don't know if you knew it or not, but you can put space between your images, that way it's easier for the reader to view the images, instead of them running into each-other, not a big deal! But just thought I'd suggest it. It's not like your going to get a knock on your door from The Patriot Woodworker editing police, or? 😅Didn’t know that, but I’ll try it next time round. I’d guess I just hit enter before attaching another image. Who’s that knocking on my door?
July 21Jul 21 Author 10 hours ago, BB1 said:Interesting...what is the plate made of? And do you drive the blank with a mallet?It’s a steel plate about 1-1/2” thick. It’s just a piece I had laying around, I’ve seen thinner ones about 1/2” thick work fine. Hitting the dowel directly tends to smash it. I use a double headed body dolly hammer against the dowel and hit that with another hammer to drive it through. It will still damage the end some, but you cut that off as you go. I split out a piece about 4 sizes larger and cut it off a couple inches longer than what I want. Start at a larger hole and work my way down. You’re essentially beating the weakness out of it so only the strength remains and you have the dowel you want. My Marine friends can vouch for this method.
July 21Jul 21 Popular Post 12 hours ago, John Morris said:...... It's not like your going to get a knock on your door from The Patriot Woodworker editing police, or? 😅Ha! LOL! Do you remember the "Soup Nazi" on Seinfeld?
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